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  3. Hi Dim. (ETA I should have looked at your photo in detail first - I didn't!) You don't have to buy them, you can have them for free. I probably got 10 in the PCB order and I've built one as the prototype so the others are sitting around. You other question is related to a comment I've just made on the other thread. We need an SPDIF signal, not separate DAC/ADC clock and data, which is what I think we've got. The Sony decks I've looked at have the digital data in both formats on different pins of the DSP, so probably as the Onkyo uses a Sony DSP, the signal will be there, but I don't know if it's accessible. So in answer to this question: then no, my board can't work with the clock plus data serial interface seen on e.g. the AK4524 DAC/ADC, my board is just a buffer and electrical interface where the deck already has SPDIF available, which as above is quite usual with the Sony DSPs, but possibly not guaranteed. This Onkyo probably uses the CXD2687 which is what I believe is used in the MZ-NH1 portable. It includes the integrated ARM controller. Since it's a fully integrated IC for a portable unit, quite possibly they didn't put an SPDIF interface on it? I'm not familiar enough with the CXD2687 to know off the top of my head. There does seem to be a Service Manual for the MZ-NH1 with schematics so with some study maybe the above questions could be answered. I originally designed my board for an MXD-D4 CD/MD combo deck which uses SPDIF natively internally. The Philips DAC they use has an SPDIF interface which takes SPDIF from the CD and MD sections. This is generally different to the MD decks I've looked at which use e.g. the AK4524 DAC/ADC which has a clock plus data serial interface along the lines of the test points you've flagged on your photo. But then this decks almost always already have either TOSLINK or Coax SPDIF out, so piggy-backing on that to provide more outputs is easy. That wasn't necessary - the deck is already using SPDIF natively internally, so the signals are just grabbed from appropriate vias or component pads on the main PCB. So in summary, more study of the Onkyo design is required to know how easy it is to add TOSLINK/Coax SPDIF out to these machines. Gut feel is if the DSP provides the output it should be perfectly straightforward. If it doesn't then it's a bit of a non-starter as a serial-to-SPDIF format conversion would be required. Hope that helps... a little! Regards, Kevin
  4. Hi Kevin, Thanks, I'd be interested buying two-three PCB plus details or soldered boards, for testing toslink out from any of sony/onkyo Hi-MD players. I am near Coventry, so delivery is all right. Could you confirm you have used with success only 'dout' and 'dground' Sony DSP pin connections to your board, getting spdif out? Have you activated the spdif out in the service menu or via md desk uart? Cheers, Dim
  5. Yea but why is the test point next to a Flash memory chip? Show me the DSP (which is not on this photo, hence asking for a shot of the other side of the PCB). That it's near a test point labelled XBCKI suggests this is for the DAC/ADC but conversely this is not then an SPDIF format data signal but part of the DAC/ADCs serial interface which is separate clock and data. Not unfortunately quite what we're looking for for the addition of a quick and easy TOSLINK or coax digital out...
  6. Wow, so there *is* dout on the onkyo hi-md decks? That's amazing. Sign me up, for one Stephen
  7. Hi @EdinElk, do you have a photo of the other side of the PCB? Also I probably have some of my project PCBs (above) lying around - they are bare, unpopulated, you'd have to buy and solder the components of interest (all at your own risk!) If any use and you pay postage from the UK, then shout up. Kevin
  8. Onkyo md 133 with sony kmk 400AAA and avaliable DOUT
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  10. In fact, the Onkyo 105fx used at least two different Sony MD transports with different DSP. The old one uses KMK 400AAA and is unique CXD2686-223GG - Onkyo MD-133, 105FX < 2009, many other bookshelf Onkyo with Hi-MD; Sony MZ-RH1, Onkyo 105FX > 2009 - CXD2687-001GG Bookshelf Sony CMT-AH10 - CXD2683-223GG. And KMK 400AAA with the Sony DSP CXD2686-223GG does have DOUT pin, top right board edge behind the memory chip, near pin 24. So, it could be used with @kgallen optical board project I believe.
  11. Warwickshire, UK

     

    Onkyo MD-133, Sony MDS-JE780, Sony LISSA, Sony MZ-RH1

  12. I found a SONY SRS XB2 in a car I just purchased. No power cord included. I want to charge it and see if it works. I looked through ads for power cords on the internet and I see two types. One is a micro USB and the other is jack type. My SRS xb2 has a slot for the micro USB and a hole for a jack. Which is the correct connector to charge this unit? BTW I tried to insert the USB connector for my phone and while it looked like the right size it would not fit. The USB slot appears to be slightly smaller. Thanks in advance for your help.
  13. Downloaded to my new Win 11 Pro PC (64 bit) / MS Office 2021 without a hitch and working perfectly. Wow, I thought I would never see the wonderful SonicStage again after ditching my old Win 7 set up! Thank you so much Christopher, you are such a star!
  14. Hi, I recently downloaded the SonicStage 4.3 'Ultimate version' from this site and its working absolutely perfectly on my new Windows 11 Pro / MS Office 2021 PC. It downloaded quickly and without a hitch! Note I am only using it to manage mp3 tracks, so no problems with ATRAC. I'm a fan of SS and just about all things Sony too!
  15. Hi all. I have the PXW-Z190 camcorder, which is supposed to have Variable ND. I have the ND set to Clear, ND switch set to Variable. But rotating the ND wheel does nothing. I tried to find the setting for this in the menus, as follows: Menu > Camera > Auto Exposure > Auto ND (greyed out)Cannot proceed. I have tried changing various exposure and ND menu items to clear this, but to no avail. Any suggestions? The camera works great otherwise, but this is a very important feature that is unavailable. The only other options is to factory reset everything, which will ruin other settings....
  16. thanks so much i'll try it and get back to you
  17. Earlier
  18. Excellent - thanks very much for adding to the knowledge about this unit!
  19. Thought I'd resurrect this thread as it is the only thing that shows up on Google for Denon Minidisc "Mech Err 1" - I have the same drive in my Denon DMD-F100. After several rebuilds I finally found the problem with mine was that the clutch gear was seized solid. Even though the limit switches on the load/eject mechanism were working fine, it seems like the player still relies on a certain amount of clutch slip at the ends of its travel. With no slip the torque from the worm gears tries to push the drive apart and jams it solid. I dismantled the clutch to free up the plates and now it is loading and ejecting perfectly.
  20. Hi and welcome to the SI forum! The basic 'No Disc' problem may be the sensor in the MD unit that tells it when a disc has been inserted after the lid is closed. It is a small black pin on the left-hand side of the MD base when the lid is open: This pin engages with one of the holes on the underside of the minidisc itself, and the pin gets pushed down when the minidisc is inserted and the lid closed: In older machines, this pin can become less sensitive and requires to be pushed down further. The malfunction can be associated with particular discs though. Do you have another to try? Otherwise you can test by putting a piece of sellotape over the pin to stick it down, then put the minidisc in and try closing the lid. If it reads the disc then you can assume it is the hole depth not being enough. I have overcome this problem by putting a tiny piece of paper into the hole of the minidisc itself, and pressing it down hard to flatten it within the hole using a small screwdriver. The effect is to raise the base of the hole and make it push that pin down a bit further when the lid is closed. Sadly, on some units the pin gets snapped off due to rough treatment and requires replacing. BTW, the 'white gunk' you saw on the spiral is lithium grease which is supposed to be there to lubricate the worm drive mechanism. If you cleaned off the excess then that's probably fine as there should be enough remaining in the thread to work.
  21. hey im new to this forum so i dont really know how it works. anyway, i recently bought an mz e40 off of offer up. it was working perfectly. i went to walmart and yknow just did my day to day stuff. later that evening i came back home and put my disc in to listen to music but it said no disc. i figured it was just a dirty lens so i cleaned it with alcohol and popped in my disc again. it still didn't work. i opened it up and saw there was like some white gunk on the little spiral that moves the lens. i cleaned that off and put it back together the way it was. put the disc in still no disc. i have no clue what it is. i need help. please.
  22. i like analog music

  23. That read value is so you can store the label value (there is an ‘Iop Write’ menu item) - it’s not part of the calibration that controls the current the machine drives. But ideally you’d update it if you replace the laser. The machine probably also has an ‘Iop Compare’ in the Check menu. This can be used to track drift and laser aging based on this stored Iop value. It will give you a percentage deviation and an OK or NG (no good) result. The text in the Service Manuals does take some getting used to plus working with a machine whilst reading to get the hang of what it’s trying to say. Understanding the auto calibration steps in the SM for portable devices is an art in itself! 😆 There can be up to 4 laser power settings to check - although I think you’re right, you set calibration for two (probably 0.9mW read and 7.0mW write). Your machine works. Take the credit, stop worrying, and enjoy it!
  24. Unfortunately, it is like this: iop old laser: 5.13ma iop new laser: 5:XXmA XX=missing numbers I have now read the service manual again but found some unclear information: you can call up 2 iop values in the service menu: you can save a new iop in the device and you can read out the labeled one from the pick-up. Would that mean that the sticker is not necessarily important because you can read the iop of the new laser or is it just that an iop value that was saved hard at the factory-process by Sony ?
  25. Forgive me, typing on phone. My interpretation of your numbers from the labels: Old laser Iop=51.3mA New laser Iop=60.5mA Iop is optical pick-up drive current. It indicates how much current the drive circuit has to push through the laser to get a defined light output. From those numbers I would conclude your machine is under-driving the new laser. This is good for laser life but you might find play or more-so record operations are not reliable. But… if your machine is working just fine, then just stay as you are and enjoy it!!!! To calibrate you need at least a laser power meter and ideally a small connector jig that plugs into the MDM to measure the Iop current as it’s adjusted. Within the Service Menu there is a process to go through to configure the drive current for a range of power output states of the laser. This isn’t automatic as you need the laser power meter to measure the actual laser output at 780nm wavelength. I’m very pleased to hear you took anti static precautions. The lasers are very easily damaged especially once the solder bridge has been removed. So well done! Note: 260e lasers have to be driven harder than the older 260b. But since you did a swap from 260e to 260e that is not an issue here. See: https://www.minidisc.wiki/_media/resources/kms260e_lpm_spec.pdf
  26. Thank you very much for this valuable information. I really enjoy learning. Unfortunately I have no way of calibrating it and finding someone in Germany is extremely difficult. What a shame I thought it would be plug'n play if type b or e was swapped for the same. can you tell me what the abbreviation lob stands for? On the back there were 2 lines on the old 260e laser: 04411 and C0513. I assume the 513 is the lob. Unfortunately there was a sticker on the new laser so that only this information was visible on the new 260e laser: 06311 and 605** in the end that means to me that there is at most a 60 to 40 chance of having a laser change without a new calibration (for long-term satisfaction). Without the possibility of calibration, I would need tons of used MDM-7 and tons of new 260b and 260e lasers from different manufacturers or suppliers with the chance of different lob values. Somebody will fit... or is there an auto-calibration in the MDS-JE service menu? My only tools so far have been antistatic gloves, laser safety glasses (in addition to working without electricity), some videos and service manuals.
  27. Was the Iop figure for the new 260E similar to the old one? This is 3 digits on the label for example ‘546’. It will range from about 520 to 600. If there is significant difference (say a difference of 2 or more on the middle digit) then you really need to calibrate the machine to the laser. If the number on the new laser is lower than the old then you will be over-driving the new laser which will shorten its life especially in record. If the new number is higher you might have play, or more likely record, reliability issues. Good luck and well done regardless!
  28. I was recently able to purchase a new laser duo 260B and 260E and yesterday I set out to replace the laser on my faulty MDM-7A. After disassembly you could see a 260E sticker on the underside. I was now able to replace the weak one with a new one and after installing it in JE770 everything worked fine. Just plug and play. I am so happy because there are now several ways for me to save a defective mds machine. Thank you for your expertise.
  29. The only trick is adding optical out on those decks which don't have it, at least for the MD section (eg MXD-D5C, MDS-JE480). They must all have the same style of firmware, because the "- DA" shows even on those decks that do NOT have optical out. Sadly the Onkyo MD-105FX (one of only a couple of Hi-MD decks in existence) doesn't do it. But that doesn't matter because a HiMD is already completely in the digital domain, and can be played back "directly" by a computer (ie it makes little difference whether the Hi-MD .OMA files are on the PC or on a minidisk, all the reproduction takes place in the computer's sound card, which DOES matter). But it can be done. Easily. Couple of wires and the right TOSlink LED transmitter.
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