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  1. Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip
    9 points
  2. Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano
    5 points
  3. Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();
    3 points
  4. Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:
    2 points
  5. Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆
    2 points
  6. Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!
    2 points
  7. Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.
    2 points
  8. I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.
    2 points
  9. Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.
    2 points
  10. Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!
    2 points
  11. It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.
    2 points
  12. I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.
    2 points
  13. Hi and welcome to the MD universe! Looking at your first video, I was struck by the amount of surface material present on the disc's upper surface. Normally they should be glossy and without scratches or deposited material. If there is crud stuck on there, then it could explain why the record head cannot contact the surface consistently, and stops. Do you have another, possibly cleaner disc to try? Since the machine is new to you, another possibility is that it's the record head itself which is producing deposits, so would be worth cleaning the underside of the record head with some 70% isopropanol to see if that helps. Even if it isn't the source of the deposits, it may have picked some up during the write attempts.
    1 point
  14. Mate, seriously i'm having more fun with my JB-930 than i've ever had with any other format, these things are so bloody awesome.
    1 point
  15. I was the opposite. All my titling back in the day was done using the remote that came with my MDS-JE500. I only discovered the joys of PS2 keyboards and computer based titling in the last few years. I don't remember using the remote being that much of a chore at the time but the later developments certainly made things much easier. I've also now got what I suppose is the deck equivalent of this: Control A1II between my CDP-XB740 and MDS-JB940.
    1 point
  16. Love his comments from c. 15.00 onwards. 😆
    1 point
  17. OK well finally back with a report of success with the Drive B encoder. Did the connection reversal for pins A and B of the encoder (1 and 3 on the PCB diagram from the service manual). No need to cut the tracks as both solder ring pads had been lost but I still had to undo the track repair. Also, in the process of de-soldering the encoder for the nth time, the solder pad for pin 4 also came off, so had to make a new bridge connection for that. Another figure of the rather messy repair: hairs on the area were from cotton buds during cleanup. Pink stuff is nail varnish remaining from the earlier track repair. Anyway after covering the area with Kapton tape and reassembling the rewired PCB back into the front panel, all functions of the encoder were exactly as anticipated (clockwise + counter clockwise) and the push-button switch works fine. Earlier worries about the amount of force needed to push the switch were allayed and it is not so forceful as to move the whole deck. With the above success I revisited the left-sided encoder (Drive A) of the W1 and rewired it according to the principle above, which is a much more solid repair as all the legs can be soldered to the board and the bridge wires added. It's a different wiring layout, which I can include in a repair section of the MD Wiki as requested. Thanks everyone, especially of course @kgallen for all the advice.
    1 point
  18. Thanks - well there has been some good progress. The low profile encoder fits great and allows the PCB to be replaced properly in the front panel, without any stress on it or the other switches. Also, the plastic AMS knob fits better on the shaft and no filing is needed to get it on (or off). Reconnected the ribbons and wires, powered on the deck and it works! Rotating the dial moves through tracks on MDs, and the push-on switch plays the track. In the menu the rotation similarly moves back and forth through the options, and the push-on selects the one arrowed. However, going forward through the numbered tracks on an MD, or going through the menu options is via an anticlockwise rotation, whereas it should be clockwise (checked on a working MDS-W1 deck). I don't know enough electronics to understand if this can be corrected, say by swapping the pins of the A and B contacts where they are soldered to the board (see 'quadrature output table' in previous post, lower left hand diagram, where I presume CW and CCW are the rotation actions). Would anyone be able to suggest a way of reversing the current action?
    1 point
  19. That's worked for me too, thanks @Richard. In case anyone is like me and didn't know how to clear the data for an individual site in Chrome, I found some instructions here: https://www.howtogeek.com/664912/how-to-clear-storage-and-site-data-for-a-single-site-on-google-chrome/
    1 point
  20. I have used them both ways, CD > MD & MD > CD, the latter to enable ripping the result into iTunes. This was a project that took about two years. I even have a folder in iTunes devoted to that effort: "MD/CD Heaven." The editing abilities of minidisc completely surpass those of CD, where there isn't much you can do post-recording.
    1 point
  21. A while back a site appeared offering replacement cases for pre-recorded MiniDiscs: https://minidisc.me/ They were offering them in a variety of colours but they never actually seemed to have anything in stock, at least not when I looked. Anyway, Retro Style Media in the UK, who also sell blanks and the smaller jewel cases for MiniDiscs, have now got the larger cases in stock: Full Size MiniDisc Case with a Black Inner Tray They're not cheap but might be worth a look if you've got some cracked cases?
    1 point
  22. Great that you've got your machine working again, @multiwirth 🙂 Gerry also sells stuff like this via the r/minidisc Reddit under the name gerry88inHongKong (in case anyone's interested but doesn't use Facebook):
    1 point
  23. Hello everyone, this is my first post in this forum... I've recently discovered that the BCA-NWHD3 adapter that came with the Sony NW-HD3 player can also be used with Sony MZ-N10 NetMD player. Both devices have the same proprietary port for data transfer and charging. All you need to do is to cut a piece of plastic that supports the adapter when connecting to the device (I used my Dremel tool to cut it; very easy stuff). Then you can attach the adapter to MZ-N10 and use a regular mini USB cable to connect the MD player to your computer. You can also charge the player via DC-in jack with an auxiliary AC-DC adapter. I use a 5V Sony PSP power adapter by the way; it works flawlessly for charging MZ-N10. Unfortunately, you cannot attach the BCA-NWHD3 adapter to the charging cradle. Because of the plastic housing, it doesn't fit into the cradle. Hope this information may help someone who is searching for a "hard to find" USB cable for MZ-N10... Here are some photos:
    1 point
  24. OK so I made two ;-) Was pretty straightforward from the instructions given on the original site. It's a very well-designed shell for the parts, and my earlier doubts about the battery being loose in the frame were unfounded as I didn't read properly: it is held in place with glue between its 'wings' and the frame. A few minor comments: The areas on a new print that catch inside the MZ-NH1 casing are the '+' and '-' characters, which were printed raised a bit too high. Easily reduced with careful sandpapering. The new LiPo battery's original orange sellotape, that covers the small charge regulator PCB, presents a raised hard edge to the MD battery slot as you slide it in. To fix this I carefully removed the orange stuff and replaced it with Scotch Magic tape, the edges of which were tucked below the height of the main battery and sealed with superglue. A better solution may be to embed the PCB in UV-setting epoxy, but this works well for now and the battery is protected inside the MD case. I charged the new assembly outside the MZ-NH1, just in case something had gone wrong with the circuitry, but it proceeded fine. Currently got two MD units soak-testing with continuous play, but 2 SP MDs into the test there is still full charge indicated on the displays. Now all that's needed is a case to hold a few of these...
    1 point
  25. OK, thanks. That clarifies. I give up then for now - maybe new facts come after the remaining tests.
    1 point
  26. Before I get into the main purpose of the topic, here's some preamble, because I know people find it interesting to hear about each other's experiences. I've gotten back into recording Minidiscs again after a very long time and wanted to document the process of making it less of a pain in the ass. With that out of the way, let's talk about the MDS-B5 and why I'm so happy to record on it despite it not having the new Type R DSP that my MZ-N707 has (it does have dual ATRAC chips though - does anyone know if the MDS-B5 actually uses those in tandem to improve encoding quality or if it's just for other functions?). I don't have too much complaints about the recording quality though, and the robustness and interface make it a much more enjoyable process. Along with the issue of titling, one of the most frustrating things about recording to MD from a PC (when you want full quality SP recordings) is the lack of track marks. Normally if you record from a CD player using the optical output, the track marks are preserved. You just get a continuous output from a PC. I'm aware of hacks to trigger the appropriate button on a remote input on some portables for example, but no such hack is required for the MDS-B5, as it has RS232 control! This is the route I decided to go down, and it turned out in the end to be quite easy to do once I'd found the right pieces of the puzzle. I've always been a Winamp fan, it used to be foobar2000 vs Winamp back in the day. I never used foobar2000 much before now. It turned out that foobar2000 was the winner for this project though, so here's how I chose to solve the problem under Windows. I'm aware of different methods to write to serial ports, and I'm also aware of different approches I could have taken with regard to OS and software choice. This is just one way. Prerequisits I'm using a generic Prolific PL2303 USB to Serial adapter for this. Open the Windows device manager and check what COM port it is using (example COM3). Download links are at the bottom of this post. If you're reading this years into the future, you may have to do some digging if the original links are broken. Download and install foobar2000. Install the foo_scheduler plugin. Install the foo_channel_mixer plugin. (Optional) Install the foo_out_asio componenmt (more on that later). Download and install NirCmd to a suitable folder (e.g. C:\bin\). Download SerialSend.exe and place into a suitable folder (e.g. C:\bin\). foobar2000 DSP Configuration It was my personal preference to disable any Replay Gain. The Channel Mixer DSP is required to delay the output signal to compensate for the delay of issuing commands via RS232, without doing this, the track starting points are very slightly too late. Under Preferences: DSP Manager, move Channel Mixer into the Active DSPs list. Press the '...' to enter the Channel Mixer configuration. Under General, Channels Selection, set Output channels to 2. Under Delays, tick Use delay and set the Delay (ms) for Front Left and Front Right to 100.000. foobar2000 Scheduler configuration This is where the magic happens. We are going to configure the foobar2000 scheduler to execute commands when certain events happen, namely playback start, new track and playback stop. Enter the Scheduler preferences (can be accessed via the File menu as well as by entering Preferences). Press the Add button next to the top Event list. Select Add player event... Select On playback start. Press Add again Select Add player event... then On new track. Press Add a third time Select Add player event... then On playback stop. Tick End-of-file signal. Under Action lists, press Add. Name the action something like MD Play Right click the new action and select Add action -> Launch application. Enter the following (modify the file paths to match where you installed them and modify the '3' after 'devnum' to match your serial port number (COM3 in this case)): C:\bin\nircmd.exe exec hide C:\bin\serialsend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 3 /hex "\r\n211\r\n" Press OK. Repeat the process again, adding a new action list called MD Track Mark or similar Enter the following, being sure to modify it as detailed before C:\bin\nircmd.exe exec hide C:\bin\serialsend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 3 /hex "\r\n41302\r\n" Press OK Repeat the process one final time, this time calling it MD Stop. Enter the following C:\bin\nircmd.exe cmdwait 100 exec hide C:\bin\serialsend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 3 /hex "\r\n210\r\n" Press OK. In the event list, right click the 'On playback start' event, select Assign Action List -> MD Play. Assign the 'On new track' event to the 'MD Track Mark' Action list. Assign the 'On playback stop / end-of-file signal' to the 'MD Stop' action list. Make sure Scheduler enabled is ticked at the bottom of the window. Sony MDS-B5 Configuration I'm going to assume that the few people that own this deck will have an idea of how to operate it but basically just make sure the serial settings are correct. Hold down Stop and press EDIT / NO. Scroll through the options using the AMS control to reach F13. Press ENTER / YES and set it to 9600 baud. Set F14 to Parity Off. Set F15 to Stop Bit 1. Recording a Minidisc Put the tracks into the foobar2000 playlist. Make sure the audio output and volume settings etc are correct. See my notes about ASIO below. Press the REC button on the deck to put it into recording standby. Press the play button in foobar2000. The track should begin to play in foobar2000 and at the same time the deck should have unpaused and begun recording When the track advances in foobar2000, the track should also advance (track mark) on the deck. When the final track in the playlist ends, the deck should stop recording. Notes on ASIO I choose to use ASIO on my Focusrite Scarlett audio interface, set specifically to use the S/PDIF output, to avoid certain things, mainly: Windows audio mixer adjusting levels (for example it's limited to -0.1dB) Sound from other applications spoiling the audio I won't go into the detail of how to set up foobar2000 to use ASIO in great detail but basically configure the sample rate to 44.1kHz and set the Custom channel mapping to send audio out of the S/PDIF output. Notes on titling Sadly you can't enter titles via the RS232 interface. However, I've settled on using a PS/2 keyboard plugged into the deck and just manually typing the titles (it's fast on a proper keyboard) while doing the first playback after recording to check it recorded successfully. I'm aware I could use WinNmd with my Net MD portable to enter titles but I don't want to install SonicStage and swap discs into the other unit just for that. Download links at the time of writing foobar2000: https://www.foobar2000.org/download NirCmd: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/nircmd.html SerialSend: https://batchloaf.wordpress.com/serialsend/ foo_channel_mixer: https://skipyrich.com/w/index.php/Foobar2000:Channel_Mixer foo_scheduler: https://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_scheduler foo_out_asio: https://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_out_asio I've spammed out this post in one go, if anyone notices any errors, let me know.
    1 point
  27. NGY, beat me to it !!
    1 point
  28. Not sure if it might help you locate one but, according to the Service Manual, the part numbers are: 4-227-834-01 KNOB (AMS) (BLACK)...(BLACK) 4-227-834-11 KNOB (AMS) (SILVER)...(SILVER)
    1 point
  29. Hi John. You can download the "ultimate edition" of SonicStage 4.3 from this site:
    1 point
  30. Hello Lewis! Thanks! I'm happy you liked it I second what @Stachu said. You can use Exact Audio Copy to rip your CDs to flac or wav or mp3.... all these formats are supported by the minidisc app. I've also found a quick guide that should help you to get started https://www.techradar.com/how-to/how-to-rip-your-cds-to-flac . I fear that direct CD access is something that browsers cannot really do for now. However, I'll make some research and see if there's a way to do that. To encode the music I've used an external library that currently does not support atrac3+ (https://github.com/dcherednik/atracdenc/). However, I know that the guy who's developing this library has been asked to support atrac3+ as well. I'll keep an eye on his project and make sure to bring atrac3+ support in case he decided to add it to his library.
    1 point
  31. According to the Service Manual over on Minidisc.org, the model number for the external battery case is: K3ZZ00200038 See bottom of page 3 here: http://minidisc.org/manuals/service/panasonic/SJ-MJ88.pdf
    1 point
  32. Bought 3 of them in case I fucked it up. Worked first time! Charging now. Thanks very much!
    1 point
  33. Sorry about the long hiatus, moved locations and all. The update on the KMS-262 is that it is necessary for the combo units as it can heat the disc faster in the high speed dubbing mode. KMS-260 just for the regular decks and real-time play or record.
    1 point
  34. So sorry...I just saw this. I was able to retrieve all the info. The deck was 256 USD. Shipping and fees were 177 USD. Here's the breakdown, from an email Buyee sent me: [Total Shipping Cost] US$177.84 (19,100yen) ------------------------------------------- [Fee Breakdown] <Domestic Shipping Fee (From seller to Buyee)> 1,400yen <Consumption Tax> 0yen <International Shipping Fee (From Buyee to your address)> 16,200yen <Package Consolidation Fee> 0yen <Protective Packaging Fee> 1,500yen ※The paid amount is calculated from the USD-JPY exchange rate at the time of the payment.
    1 point
  35. Prices fron Buyee are similar to what I get in Vietnam for those ES decks. I am happy.
    1 point
  36. Yes, good philosophy. I think if get a similar one : nowadays you can buy (for a lot of money) Hi-Res players, some even high-end. But is this necessary to have the best sound ever when you travel or when you are outside ? When you know that all those players will get problems after 3-5 years (maybe less) and that the so-called high-end earphones & headphones all get their own problems too, I think that I prefer to listen to music with a MD player which has cost me peanuts and above all with MD discs that I can touch. The only problem is that you cannot bring a wide choice of music with you. LP2 give you more music ;>)
    1 point
  37. Just add a PC in your audio system, you will get the same functionnalities and more, specially if you add a very good external DAC.
    1 point
  38. Hi, Here's a new netmd760.cat file. Just replace the existing file with this one. This fixes the hash mismatch errors... netmd760.cat
    1 point
  39. Hi, I'm new in the Minidisc world as i bought my first ever unit 2 days ago from the internet. The problem I have is that I cannot charge the flat battery(NH-10WN) of the MD. The adaptor is correct connected, and the battery is inserted correctly. I connect the adaptor to the plug of the MD and press the STOP/CANCEL/CRG button once and I get the display "Charging". After 2.5 hours I tried to play a disc but I was getting low battery, so I charged it for another 2.5 hours. That happened 4-5 times. The unit itself works ok when it"s connected to the adaptor. Am i doing something wrong or should i send the MD back to the place I bought it?
    1 point
  40. Don't know if this helps - found a copy in my archives.....
    1 point
  41. For those who can understand french or just can translate french text, jonathanpotato has repaired and comment a lot of portable and deck units, even made a repair guide : Articles / Accès par thèmes / Minidisc, http://www.jonathandupre.fr/ . Note that there are dozens of comments even hundreds for some of them on each unit on Sony Insider. Non Sony units like Sharp's however are not that much analysed and commented so that could be a welcome add. I don't know if your topic will have a good success and I just cross my fingers for you. Perhaps I will had my own comments when I will have more time.
    1 point
  42. Sounds a bit long. It is not a problem from resistance point of view, however, long cables can pick up electromagnetic noise, like an aerial. What you can do though is to fold the cable in Z or Omega shape, making sure the folded parts cover each other precisely - in other words, wires won't get over a neighbouring one, to avoid interference. And no need for very sharp edges, to avoid cracks. In your case keeping the 125 mm distance beetween the two ends you first make a fold at ~100mm, then at ~75mm from the first one, making the Z. In the middle you will have triple layers, consuming about 225mm of the length, plus ~25-25mm-s at the ends Once this is done, you may want to tie it together with a piece of adhesive tape.
    1 point
  43. What exactly is the problem with the display? Is it completely dark? Several things can happen. The quickest checks, that don't need much testing gear: - check if all those flat cables are seated properly - check for any electronic components that look burnt , also, for dark brown or black spots/stains on the PCBs - check if those tiny cathode filaments inside the VFD are not broken. Two photos below are from different models, but give you the idea The left one shows intact filaments, the one on the right shows the topmost filament broken: .
    1 point
  44. Daniyar Nurgaliev has kindly made translations of several Sony technical papers on Minidisc: Sony's original paper on ATRAC Sony's original paper on the MiniDisc System Our FAQ on Sony's Hi-MD evolution of MiniDisc
    1 point
  45. sorry but on my Vista computer it doesn't work I start tje sonicstage 4.3 and get the message : the selected music file cannot be played because the system information has been changed. run the sonicstage system information restore tool. error : 00004e2e this tool starts then tries to connect to the internet then I get a ! and that's all I don't understand the sentence found on the forum : NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. What is the patch? is it the software sonicstage 4.3 or is it another little file you have to add to your system after installing sonicstage 4.3? thanks any idea ?
    1 point
  46. Reading your post is a treat! For one, in a way you've answered your own question. 1) You're appreciating how good it sounds 2) You have the desire to have "rekindled" enthusiasm... why? Because you recognize what a cool format MD really is... it was just poorly marketed and overlooked. 3) You recognize the durability and reliability of these devices. Now, if I may still add a few thoughts of my own. For one, I've heard that the Cowon players offer great sound quality, and anything that's non-iPod gets kudos from me But minidisc simply offers something no other units really offer these days. Let's first look at what mp3 players and the like offer: 1) huge capacity 2) relatively decent sound (they're slowly improving) 3) recording capability (becoming more common) 4) availability - extremely high... you can get one from the grocery store 5) bling - let's face it, video playback, phones, GPS, etc... all in your music player Ok... what does minidisc offer COOL FACTOR. Is that it?? Well until just a few years ago, we could say it has the best sound, it records, etc., but that gap is (oooo I forgot 'gapless', but that just got fixed not long ago too for mp3 players) smaller each passing day. And I'm not even mentioning battery life because nowadays, unless you are on an island, you can have a unit charging anywhere (car, portable battery pack, the office, etc.)... yes, MD has much better battery life, mostly because there is not large illuminated screen sucking juice, but still not really important in today's rechargable world, in my opinion. So what is this cool factor? Let's face it... a small, literally COMPACT disc that is in a PROTECTED plastic shell that can't get scratched, that is REWRITABLE, and INCREDIBLE sound quality and still looks futuristic, retro-punk cool is just downright awesome. This isn't for Generation Y much and certainly not Z, but if you grew up in a time when even burning your own CD-R was exciting, then you can understand part of the thought process behind why minidiscs are so amazing. But even that aside, you might also know how to appreciate ALBUM listening. I hate shuffle-play or being overwelmed by 10,000,000 songs to choose from. I love to grab a couple MDs and go, which with LP2 still gives me like 6 or more albums to choose from. Less is more as far as I'm concerned. Minidisc is DIFFERENT. It is rare now, and for the most part you can only get units now via Ebay... so the HUNT is part of the fun! Show it off to friends, see their reaction. You'll get the "why not iPod?" reaction, but you'll also first get the "wow, what's THAT?" reaction too. One more thought on sound quality. I bought an iPod a while back and tried ripping music to it in "lossless" wav format and it still sounded like complete crap to me. But that's because I like the SOUND SIGNATURE of ATRAC and the Sony units and their built in amps/eq's etc... so you have to see what your ears prefer. I also love making minidisc LABELS and ARTWORK, just like the days of making tape compilations, or CD-Rs with face label printing... check out the threads for MD label art both in this forum and the Audio T-Board. Anyway, plunge into these threads, look around and have fun... and take PICS of your unit! We love that. Welcome to the family. As we are small, and unique, its what draws us closer together
    1 point
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