akasaka

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  • Content count

    15
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About akasaka

  • Rank
    Novice
  • Birthday 05/16/1997

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://vladkorotnev.me
  • ICQ
    367097444

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Reverse-engineering, electronics, music.

Previous Fields

  • Sony Products I Own
    MZ-R30, WM-EX501, PSP3008, DCR-HC20E

Audio

  • ATRAC Devices
    none
  • Headphones
    non-sony
  • Amplification
    non-sony
  • Minidisc units
    MZ-R30
  • Microphone Equipment
    non-sony
  1. how-to

    Thanks for sharing the story NGY but there is an actual reason it is not recommended to charge lithium cells under a certain voltage. Basically every time you discharge a cell, one of the electrodes dissolves into the electrolyte. Up to some point, it's all fine because it's surface remains intact and when you charge the cell it will restore over that surface. However when it's overly discharged the surface is uneven and the copper (or whatever it was) will form uneven shapes and spikes, which can lead to puncturing of the internal insulation with all the fun stuff like thermal runaway and such. Can't remember the source of it, I read it in a book at the university library, but it stated it is applicable to both ICR cells and IMR cells. Glad it works for you but it's not quite worth the risk for anyone to repeat I suppose...
  2. how-to

    I'd definitely get a tabbed battery but I wanted to use something I already had at hand since getting decent batteries (not usual TrustFire, UltraFire, whats the next brand... HouseFire? crap) is mostly only possible by either getting old laptop batteries and pulling still living cells (but that's gonna be without tabs), otherwise that gets really expensive :c
  3. how-to

    So were you able to get back to it?
  4. how-to

    Do you mean you're buying a LIP-8 just to figure out how to re-cell it? That's insanely great and generous. It needs to be an original sony, though, since many knockoffs mostly build their packs in a different way.
  5. how-to

    Most likely it contains a standard cell of some sort. If you have the courage and the tools, it would be cool if you could pop open one of them. Then we could easily figure out the replacement.
  6. how-to

    For some reason the LIP-8 on your link looks totally like the LIP-12. If that is the case, my tutorial would most likely be suitable, apart from that you might need a different kind of a cell in case it's different size. Either way you can do it but at your own risk.
  7. how-to

    Thanks for the correction, Ryan. I mistakenly thought that they are similar models, thus should share the same battery. In fact, yeah, R50 needs a LIP-8 which is of a different construction. I don't have any so can't post any repair instructions, sorry. - Ak.
  8. I got to enter the service mode with this: http://www.minidisc.org/keep/MZ_R50_dodges_SCMS.htm However instead of parameter mode it throws me into regular service mode.
  9. I've checked the service and training manuals and they only specify a solder bridge spot for service mode. It's kinda easy to access the main board on the R30 and I've already serviced mine since it wasn't properly working on the outer radius, it's just that I don't want to open it up again with those tiny little screws it has. Finding another MD here would be quite hard, especially a dead one, especially just for the sake of one disc - Ak.
  10. Service mode is quite complicated on this one. Plus it is only enabled by putting a solder bridge onto a test point on the main board. I have experience with opening it up but I'd rather not solder anything. However if anyone could point out what combination I should use for erasing TOC then it would be much appreciated and I'd go with soldering the service mode switch. - Ak.
  11. What is that? I tried ejecting the MD while writing TOC, but that takes some tricky holding it in place, and I couldn't get the timing right — it either writes it OK or doesn't damage it yet. It's the simplest player out there I think, so I don't think it can do that. Maybe I can somehow heat up the disc past its curie point yet not melt it and then use a neodymium magnet of which I have a lot? - Ak.
  12. how-to

    Haha wow, that's a lot! Wouldn't it be easier to get a new replacement one from ebay for the same price? I went that way just because I had some unprotected industrial grade 18650s around and the shipping is, well, a lot expensive.
  13. Yep, it still shows TrPROTECT on the display. According to the MD specs, while there is at least one track with the protect flag set, a disc cannot be erased. Weird is the fact that the R30 is actually checking it, was NetMD already around in 1999? And it doesn't have an option to protect individual tracks on the recorder anyway.
  14. Hello everyone. Recently I've bought some MDs for recording. They all were nicely playing and eraseable except for one of them. When I insert it into my MZ-R30, I can see it play but can't hear anything. If I try to erase anything, I get a TrPROTECT error. I don't have any means of getting a second MD deck that supports NetMD or is pre-NetMD (the MZ-R30 is pre-NetMD too, but for some reason it won't ignore the flag). Any ideas? Maybe anyone knows the exact temperature to heat an MD up to in order to be able to remagnetize the whole MD with a neodymium HDD magnet? Thanks in advance. - Ak.
  15. Disclaimer: I cannot be held responsible for whatever damage or loss, physical or mental, related to attempting to repeat something described in this post. It is provided for educational purposes only. Never disassemble electronic devices, especially batteries and battery packs, especially lithium ones, unless you have necessary proficiency and qualification in electronics. Recently I’ve acquired a Sony MZ-R30 Minidisc player. It’s a kinda fun format, but the fact that I had to use a 2AA case in order to enjoy my music was quite disappointing. After fiddling around with the dead LIP-12H that came with it, I came to a conclusion that it’s definitely a somehow packaged 18650 cell. Carefully prying it apart with a hard plastic spudger and an X-acto knife, here’s what I saw inside. Note: better pry in a direction outside the pack, as not to damage or short out anything And once you get the top case off... Sure thing, it’s a 18650 with a small protection/driver module. The battery turned out to be a Sony Energytec US18650S STG ICR Li-Ion cell. The voltage measured around 0.86V, so it’s definitely going to be discharged and then handed in at a battery recycling point, along with some others undercharged ones. To remove the battery, I cut the long positive zinc terminal behind the cell by bending it a bit outward, and carefully cutting the zinc stripe in half. Then I pulled hard on the cell and it detached from the bottom negative cell tab which was soldered directly on the protection circuit. Afterwards, pulling the remaining positive tab got it free. Don’t throw them away just yet, instead make them nice and flat (and cut off the “tail” of the positive one”). For easier working, I also cut the remainder of the positive tab’s tail that was still attached to the protection board so that it would just form a soldering pad on the board itself, instead of completely desoldering it. Now I had to find a replacement cell. I’ve done a big old laptop battery teardown this summer, and even though 2 of the salvaged ones were already undervolted, and 4 more were rendered useless by lending a 18650 powerbank to a classmate who let them down to 2.05, I couldn’t get myself to buying new cells, and that’s why I kept the tabs. It would be great if I had a Li-Ion cell welding machine, but so far, I just went on and soldered a piece of wire from an ATA (IDE) cable onto the remaining square pad, and the other end onto the remaining zinc tail on the positive input of the protection circuit. Then I picked a replacement cell, my choice was a Panasonic CGR18650C, because they seemed to be somewhat good looking and are what I had at hand (I have plenty of other Sony ones, but just 2 of these after the other 4 ones died, which doesn’t even make them a viable powerbank set :P). Finding datasheets for both original and replacement cells was a hard time, but, from what I could tell, the Panasonic ones can easily survive 1428mA charging current, and the original Sony one had a 1C rating, thus, a 1350mA maximum charging current. So, since 1428mA is less than 1350mA, we should be safe Afterwards I used some electrical tape to secure the pads to the cell, because as you should know by now, one should never ever solder directly to a Li-Ion cell, and I don’t have a cell welding tool. I made sure it’s as tight as possible so that the playback would not interrupt, and then secure the cell to the original casing. The top cover, however, decided not to fit onto such a strange construction, so… you might try and do better Yeah, that’s not something you would be fine with taking out at an airport or something Sliding it in also became a bit harder than it was originally, because of the changed size, plus one has to observe the wire so that it won’t get stuck in the way somewhere along the slide and short out onto the case (should’ve used more electrical tape, yeah). The player is now back to fully working order! Now I can enjoy my music without stretching my pockets due to the overweight external AA battery compartment size. Charging the battery inside the player right now with a Sony PSP 1.5A charger and the battery doesn’t seem to even get any hot, even though the battery gauge shows weird things, so I’d call it a success. Not the best way it could be done, but clearly a success. Let me know if it's helpful - Ak.