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KMS-260 vs KMS-262

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Hello, I'm needing to replace the laser assembly in a MXD-D40 and it requires the KMS-262E or A. The KMS-260 is a lot easier to find. They look the same and just wondering if they are interchangeable? Is it just one is newer than the other?

Thanks

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PhilippeC is right, it should fit.

A couple of notes though, you might want to consider:

- there were at least three variants of the KMS-260. While all those are pin compatible and share the same frame (therefore all three would fit mechanically and electronically the vast majority of the Sony MD decks), the laser power is different, and the deck must be set up accordingly

- either way, once you replace the OP, for proper settings (for the sake of longer laser lifetime) an LPM is necessary, as well as a test jig, to measure the IOP. These are both very sensitive values, and a wrong or loose setting can kill the laser in a relatively short time. (Not mentioning that the deck may not be able to read, write, or both, if settings are way out.)

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Phamcu a former vietnamese member proposed - through me - some free MD lenses that has been aleady sent to some members of this forum. I have still 2 or 3 of them just in case. Vietnam is still a country were is quite easy to find old MD stuff, specially decks (then lenses), not Hi-MD ones though.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry about the long hiatus, moved locations and all. The update on the KMS-262 is that it is necessary for the combo units as it can heat the disc faster in the high speed dubbing mode. KMS-260 just for the regular decks and real-time play or record.

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On 3/3/2017 at 9:07 AM, NGY said:

PhilippeC is right, it should fit.

A couple of notes though, you might want to consider:

- there were at least three variants of the KMS-260. While all those are pin compatible and share the same frame (therefore all three would fit mechanically and electronically the vast majority of the Sony MD decks), the laser power is different, and the deck must be set up accordingly

- either way, once you replace the OP, for proper settings (for the sake of longer laser lifetime) an LPM is necessary, as well as a test jig, to measure the IOP. These are both very sensitive values, and a wrong or loose setting can kill the laser in a relatively short time. (Not mentioning that the deck may not be able to read, write, or both, if settings are way out.)

I actually was able to track down an LPM. I seemed to got lucky with just updating the IOP values from the new laser into the machine.

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