sfbp

What's the point of this? How can we help?

Did you see this post? These two look to me like manifestations of the same thing. Regards

Ha! did you see this post? I sense an update coming on.....

nah - windows search will look at the CONTENTS of text files, so that's a short cut of sorts. Also if you know WHEN you started added MD support to this unit you could sort by date. And if you DO end up adding any drivers you will be able to follow where they end up. And as I say, if it doesn't work right you can easily start again. I am actually quite keen for someone to figure out the LEAST number of steps necessary to make this work, so feel free to experiment. I'll be on hand in the incredibly unlikely event you need rescuing. PS. if you DON'T get the <STOP> warning at driver install time, you are likely installing the old (that you don't want) drivers. So that is another clue.

Just checking... did u uninstall all the greyed out drivers that you only see when looking at "hidden devices" after following the instructions here? The only way to be absolutely certain about the oemxx.inf is to look at them all, sigh. If it does NOT work, we can keep trying,,,, nothing terrible will happen.

Yes you need this thread, Martin. Uninstall all the drivers you can find, delete them too from the hard disk. Some are in strange places such as oem<nn>.inf. Then install thenetmd052.sys driver using this INF file (save the contents of what I posted as NETMD052.INF, and you will also need the NETMD052.CAT file, of course). Set each and every device you want to use NetMD with to use the same driver file. You will get a <STOP> warning (unsigned driver) on every one, which you can ignore. Let us know how you get on. I am not posting this as a complete solution until at least ONE person says they got it to work. The test is you should be able to work with your JB980 and then switch to RH1 with no loss of upload speed on the latter. Under the "standard" regime, you will see the upload from the RH1 working at approximately x1 which is basically useless and will also wear out the unit if you use it very much (not to mention your patience!). Stephen

Actually I think it may be. It's right on the crack of the machines that changed from -R to -S and I think from its date and the chip number, that it postdated the N10 (which is Type-S at least according to minidisc.org). Stephen

AFAIK there's no such division into arbitrary blocks on Sony products. I have the ICDSX750 and it is an almost full subset of the PCM-10 functionality-wise. Any folder can have any amount of memory allocated to it, there's a real file system here, 100% compatible with Windows. I have done 5 hour LPCM recordings on the ICD-SX950 (which has 8GB instead of 2GB) and no such division occurs. When dividing a track (which on the SX750 is irreversible) the playback is seamless after the divide. On the PCM-M10 there is the added sophistication of track marks WITHOUT divide, and you can do the divide at the end when you are satisfied. I'm quite certain there will be no break on playback even if the files are divided (by you). NickyJay is right. Note: I am not sure if the PCM-M10 does 48KHz (maybe only 44.1). But you can check that easily enough. It does indeed record at 48 or 96 kHz LPCM

What phones are you using? Do they have a gold-plated 3.5mm Jack, or the (cheaper) silver-coloured one? Several people have commented that the S1 produces good results. So I wonder what is different in your setup perhaps?

Sorry to barge in here, this is not really my game but you say "even with a pair of good quality Senheiser (sic) headphones". Are you sure that's not itself the real problem, trying to drive some relatively heavy duty cans with a small output? I agree the shipped phones with Sony's units these days are rather variable, but their older default cans are mostly OK, as long as they have a gold-plated jack. The service mode is probably accessible but even if you can get into it (at least on my NWZ S754) there doesn't seem to be a way of changing things - ie the recipe we have maybe only allows us to VIEW the service info but not change it. Listening to a bruckner symphony on my EH70 MD and no shortage of sound there whatever. Long live minidisc. Welcome to the forums!

Good point, though of course M-Crew won't handle the metadata of artist etc that Sonic Stage does with HiMD disks, and all the newer formats like MP3 etc. What I DID recently learn is just how good M-Crew is at accepting pasted information from the clipboard. Nowhere in the manual does it explain that. The "paste all txt information" absolutely does not work for me. But I can paste into the first track on a disk and it will put subsequent lines of text to work on the subsequent tracks. That's very nice indeed. Perhaps the only problem with legacy MD is the 1700 character limit. This means some downloaded information will often overflow what there's room for on the disk.

I think your price is reasonable for a machine with a NEW battery. 'nuff said.

To be fair to Sony every USB-capable unit they ever shipped worked correctly out of the box with the drivers they included with it. You didn't answer my question: do you have an RH1? a. if not, this whole exercise is pointless. b. if so then you should have received drivers with it that work. If you want to be a guinea-pig with my "single-driver" idea suggest you do that AFTER you got things working with the regular drivers. So before we go any further: what unit(s) are you trying to support? Missing from your description is the problem you are trying to solve. It's very easy to slag off Sony when some <undefined> problem cannot be solved. Usually that's because the problem is unsolvable owing to it being undefined. It may be time to separate this into a separate thread, the original purpose of this was not to provide a way to get users working under W7-32. The file pa_drivers.zip DOES include the driver for the MZ-RH1 in unmodified form. The installer in Windows 7 doesn't even need you to unzip the file, you can simply open it by pointing the installer there and navigating through until you find the driver(s) you need.

Sorry for the confusion, you DO NOT want netmd760.sys It is not designed for 32-bit systems, only for 64-bit (Vista as well as Win7, possibly even XP-64). I removed your post from the 64-bit thread as it is all getting too confusing. What you need are the files mentioned in the above .INF file (which is netmd052.inf), netmd052.sys and netmd052.cat. Another solution is to pretend it's not Win7 at all The only purpose of THIS thread is to allow people to install only ONE driver for W32, which seems to avoid the "slow upload" experienced by users of the MZ-RH1. If you don't have that model (or the MZ-M200 which is the same thing) you don't really care since the "slow upload" does not happen, because the RH1 is the only one which allows upload. However, if like most of us (nuts) here you have multiple kinds of units you want to connect to the USB, this fix will ensure you only install the one driver file, which (to my way of thinking) is a simpler set-up. I'm still waiting for someone else to confirm I did it correctly, or I would have posted the driver set including this INF file as a download a while ago. Do you have an RH1? If that's your only unit, use the drivers which got installed with it. The regular netMD drivers are also available in the downloads section in the file pa_drivers.zip. However if you can follow this thread from the beginning, maybe you can get everything working with multiple units and ONLY the netmd052.sys driver. Stephen

You need to install the standard (XP) netMD drivers. It's possible they didn't get invoked by your 32-bit install, but if so it's a simple matter to add them. Just find the package from Sony. You're welcome (instead) to try the (edited) NETMD052.INF - copy and paste from the above. But if you don't know how to do that, you probably won't be able to do the other steps. The only thing that my effort here does is to eliminate all drivers except NETMD052.SYS. Not trying to be unhelpful, but if you have already made the W7-64 package work, you should know everything you need to know about messing around with these things.

You do not need this for W7-32. Just use the standard stuff and be happy.

What you don't tell is is how long you can play (or record) for. The manual specifies 17hrs (8.5 hrs) as the worst or toughest case, being SP play (and SP recording). Without this information the statistics about how long it charges for are worthless. If this battery only plays for 1-2 hours (and this seems likely), a fair price for the unit is no more than $60 as a replacement battery (not to mention the big hassle of fitting it) will be very expensive.

If the belts are simple rubber/synthetic rubber (so-called BUNA, it's an acronym) and circular, here's what you do: Buy a so-called O-ring from one of the companies that supplies multiple industries. Your only problem is figuring out the right size. I had to do this because B&O couldn't sell me drive belts for my reel-to-reel machine (they had no more and these would have been dried up no doubt). It's actually surprisingly easy as long as you can get used to the strange way they dimension them. http://www.sisweb.com/vacuum/o-rings/buna.htm http://www.usseal.com/oringpage.htm http://www.marcorubber.com/orings.htm You are going to need some calipers to measure the one you have, I fancy. Good luck! Stephen

Did you check to see what these fetch in the completed listings? I found about 7 or 8 at the price I expect ($60) and only one ($102) anywhere near your suggested $100. The latter was after an auction with 100 bids. Given that the N10's battery is very hard to get hold of (and may easily cost $40), I would suggest that for $100 you might need to include a new LiIon battery.

The answer is no and yes. No, because Sony intended you to lose them in this situation. Equivalent to moving computers (dumb idea, Sony!). We here have all been running the File Conversion Tool for ages (which will remove the machine- and windows- specific encryption). The problem with that is that it may only work for files that are valid against the encryption keys which you (probably) destroyed with your format, when it is run. The FCT is de rigeur for keeping your files readable by multiple computers on a network, for example. Once you have done it, their extension becomes ".OMA" (instead of ".oma") and this does not need to be repeated. Yes, because someone recently figured out how to get the encryption of the file even though Sonic Stage might not be present any more. It may well be the same as what FCT does, I honestly am not sure. It's also subject to a legal question or two, because Sony has not so far agreed to allow use of any decryption tools made by third parties. Hope this helps Stephen

Hahahah, ty Wiz.

If it's blue, it's not the MZ-1. And MD dates from 1992. Looks like the R30, R37 and R50 all had blue variants. Before that machines were not much coloured. Time to look for the model number.

I know that on the NH900 and NF810 it was indeed this first value that did the trick. Jim, I thought you had tried this set of adjustments on several of the other models and reported the same thing? If the decay has been gradual, I say try it. Jim and I both found that the voltages required were often 20-30 mV too low across the board, and that adjusting them fixed a bunch of problems. As I said, if you do this one FIRST, you may (as I did) see the screen immediately improve. Recommend that if it works, you do the rest in the set (down to where the manual gets into Laser Power).

Here in the service manual linked to

Go into service mode and adjust the voltages. IIRC the very first one should fix the screen - however it's best to do the whole group. Probably no need to mess with the USB stuff (they call it VBs I think). What you need starts in Section 5-5 on page 18 and finishes before (ie do NOT continue to) the Laser Power adjustment on page 19. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT DO an NVRAM Reset (page 17) or you will be stuck with learning how to give your baby the Full Monty. If you can't do these adjustments (no gear or fearful) send to Jim Hoggarth on this board for an adjustment (could send to me but I am far away and he is in the UK). G'luck Stephen