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Posts posted by sfbp
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8 hours ago, adamkkk said:
Hi @sfbp,
When I bought the MZ-RH1 the only digital upload possible was the files recorded by yourself with a mic. Others should be blocked for music rights. Yet, as HiMD disc is a storage unit, like any USB key, you can even put text or PowerPoint files on the disc. For that you do not need any software, just your Mac will recognise HiMD as an external USB key or CD-ROM.
Best,
I think you must be confusing me with someone else. In any event, I don't see how this answers Stachu's question.
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Oh, I have never had a 600D in my hands. You mean there's no Tmark button? You're dead. It's not hard to get a 600 (no D).
I need to correct a disturbing implication in your post. You (one) absolutely CAN edit HiMD. Just not when it's been transferred from a PC.
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Stuff that's downloaded to the MD, especially NetMD from SonicStage, that is the case. It may well NOT be the case for:
a. tracks put there with the new WebMiniDisc App that everyone is jumping up and down about (including me)
b. tracks put there from HiMD, PROVIDED they have been decrypted first (ie if they were uploaded from somewhere you ran the File Conversion Tool on your database and selected no "Copy protection".Recorded material is fine to divide or erase, but your unit does NOT have a line in or a microphone jack, sadly.
Hope this helps
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Nice diagnosis of a fault that I''ve never experienced, myself. Makes perfect sense.
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So, come up with a plausible explanation for how that mechanism might fail....?
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Kevin, looking the manual, I am lost. Where is the gizmo that engages the sliding cover? I can't see it on the only picture of any of these BD models. Perhaps there's a clearer version on one of the earlier models so you can see just how the loading mechanism grabs the cover. I assume that's what DickyDread means.....?
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A side note, there are serial port emulators these days, that plug into a USB 2.0 port.
I'd also lay money on the problem being you need a 32-bit version of W10 - not that hard to come by.
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Hmm, did some checking. Did you look here?
http://www.minidisc.org/part_Sony_PCLK-MD1+MD2.html
There's what you're looking for. You will need a serial cable connection which most PCs don't have these days, but I expect you're all organized in that department.
Good luck!
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Neither SonicStage nor M-Crew will talk to the PC2. You can get SonicStage working nicely on Windows 64 (or 32) but the problem is your device doesn't speak either PS/2 (M-Crew) or USB (Sonic Stage). Sorry!
I *think* maybe the Onkyo stuff still supports Ctrl-A1 II, but not sure if their flavour is compatible with the Sony (SIRCS) variety. Everything changed so fast as the world evolved to new standards such as USB 2.
*IFF* all you need is good track titling, what about the remote with keyboard, the RM-D10P?
http://minidisc.org/part_Sony_RM-D10P+D11P+D20P.html
At least the MDS-PC2 has lots of input and output, though the review Gyula linked to seems to indicate optical input might be a bit of a nuisance. Perhaps that's one thing that's better in 2020.
No real experience with the MDS-PC2. I have its successor, the PC3 and it works really nicely.
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I doubt if you actually need the CD. Just looked it up... it's a Ctrl-A1II hookup.
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I'd be inclined to check into all the known faults of MD recorders first. I haven't seen a schematic of this one, but Sony did an amazing job on just about all their manuals, so that would be a good place to start.
Don't jump to conclusions. If I had to guess, it would be a capacitor somewhere in the power supply. Right, Kevin?
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I just tested RM-MC35ELK (K for Katakana/Kanji I believe) and RM-MC38EL ( the commonest one of all, which you have). Not 100% sure if you can do everything but I don't see why not. You won't get the three line display on the 38, but I believe there's one remote which does two lines at least (though NOT on the NH1) - I just don't remember which one. Maybe the 33EL?
You don't need to fear damaging anything by inserting a remote not designed for a unit. Either it works, or not....
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Definitely refund material. IMHO
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Well for it to fail the CD test something is seriously wrong. I've almost never seen the CD test fail unless I mis-assembled it. YMMV, of course, no offence intended.
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"reset the NVRAM" is actually a misnomer. All they did, when you pushed the 911 emergency panic button was to reset a single byte in memory. Emphatically the NVRAM was not cleared. The laser power settings will not have been touched. All you did was to force a calibration.
My deduction is (FWIW, free advice is worth what you pay for it), you are having a similar issue to myself with the player I mentioned, that somehow things are not moving right. It turned out to be absolutely tiny variations in how I tightened the relevant screws when re-assembling.
I'm curious, just how far did you strip it down?
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Still sounds mechanical to me. The CD test is by far the least demanding, and if it fails (I assume you tried it before and it worked) there's something seriously wrong.
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Sadly, I'm not sure that ffmpeg and the QHiMDXfer libraries ever dealt with Mono as a format (:
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The eraser on a lead pencil can work remarkably well on the tarnish on such connectors.
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It seems curious to reflect that it is almost exactly a year since I first saw your beautiful city, and how far away everything seems now we are not allowed to travel.
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Sorry for chiming in YET again.... it's been repeatedly asserted that the 780 and 980 are essentially the same machine with a few extra brass screws. So if someone can get the 980 going, then the 780 WILL work. I am certain of it.
Stephen
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Now Gyula is going to be offended at me. OK, there you go (fixes original post), and now to the top of my list of brilliant aftermarket MD repairers.
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In my (limited) experience, a head is busted or not. What sounds to me off (here) is mechanical alignment, sled motion, head updown, etc. It can't exactly be the OP wandering off track as it wouldn't play, methinks. There's really nothing to break (other than it being bent out of shape), so I would be starting to look at the little motor and the gears of the head lifting mechanism (vertical stepper).
I will defer to Kevin or Gyula (NGY) as to how to diagnose this. Jim, where are you? All the customers we coulda sent you........
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OK. Try this: Menu (long press). Up one click (ie you're scrolling around rather than click by click to the bottom), press enter (can use the 40ELK for the Enter). You're in Option. Now up one click with the roller (again), enter, you should be in Language. Now try different things. I would try up, enter (again), and look at the remote. Just keep doing up-enter until something changes. My recollection is there were 3 or 4. On my NW-F886 there are only 2.
Sony Vaio van ar11s
in Vaio
Posted
Sorry Jimbob, we simply don't have the expertise to respond to queries about Vaio. I personally would try installing generic Windows 10 (easy to download).