sfbp

Hmm guessing the one step you may have missed is to set ur receiver NOT to send sound to the TV. Also for direct TV broadcasts (as opposed to via one of the other sources) its possible you need an optical (or coax) cable in the reverse direction.

Remove the battery!

I'm not sure you can in fact transfer mp3 on to anything except a hiMD formatted disk. Logical since the ATRAC3 format is somewhat tied to the medium, whereas MP3 format stays unchanged, and the Hi-MD is "just" files (with the usual Sony paranoic encryption, wrapping, and modification) Guessing you converted the MP3 version to LP2 without realising it. There's another dialog specifying what to do with files that don't transfer, whether to refuse, convert automatically (what I am thinking), or ask the user. Confirmed, then. The portable(s) will not change the tracks once they arrive. The Transcoding only occurs in SS, and will always say "Converting" when it does it, prior to "Transferring" Quite so.

I've never done it (donwloading). My test files started out as .WAV and got converted by me to MP3. A lot depends on the bitrate (#) and whether constant or variable bitrate. The higher bitrates are thought to be ok. But 128K MP3 will not, IMO, be close to a 132K (LP2) ATRAC track. Worse still, cross converting will likely make artifacts (in either direction). But downconverting (high rate MP3 or WAV) to lower rate ATRAC may be just fine. Just remember, do NOT use SS to rip your CD's onto the PC. SimpleBurner does a better job, and so does the free EAC. The NH600 will not play MP3 directly. As you know, Sony gave up the war, and provides a free of charge ATRAC->MP3 converter (I think it's just part of SS, but I honestly don't remember). Sounds like MP3's need "help", for example the Sony Head units have something called BBE which is supposed to "fix" the most obvious problems with MP3 playback. I have no opinion as to whether they do.

1. Hook up your NetMD device - the 'puter should make the :USB connected: duh-di sound. 1a. if your NetMD device is the JB980 and you haven't already done so, turn on NetMD by pressing the button on the front panel which should now glow green - if you didn't get it before, now should get the sound of USB being found. 1b. If both of the above fail, check the installation of your NetMD drivers for the deck/portable (I am assuming you got past all that part as I recall you asking for the drivers). 2. Fire up SonicStage, select the album/track you want in the left pane. Click on the Transfer button at the top and you should see NetMD as one of the dropdowns (if there is a disk in the machine). If it had something already on it, so much the better as long as it isn't formatted as a HiMD disk. You should be able to see the existing sound files on it. 3. Click the black briefcase thingy in the middle (between the panes) and choose the third radio button - SP mode. Don't do this routinely unless you have to (this is the case today but often it won't be!), it's simply because you are converting to LP2 anyway, and the SP mode offers NO increase in quality over LP2 when using SonicStage (No, don't ask!!!!). 4. (Assuming the left pane still has your song selected, the .mp3) Click the red arrow and watch the transfer. To be doubly sure I just did all this, first on a NetMD portable, the MZ-N910, then repeated on the MDS-JB980. Worked. Pretty slow on the 980, so you might be better off using the RH1, or NH600 since you have them. I'm afraid that MP3 and loss-of-quality are synonyms in the setup you describe. The only way you avoid degrading the sound further from MP3 is to transfer it to the RH1 (or another MD device that supports MP3 playback) directly without conversion. I have written this from the POV of someone unfamiliar with using SonicStage. My apologies if you are way past this, but I seem to remember you saying you only just got "into" USB and computers and all that stuff. Stephen PS I checked the results by playing that track in an SP-only deck.

:the remote thingy lol: has a headphone socket, no? Cheers Stephen

I haven't done this but somehow I think you need to get the right drivers installed into the virtual XP mode. This should be transparent, but I have a feeling that you need to do the install into the XP virtual machine, rather than an install into Windows7 and then subsequently trying to run the application in the XP VM. Be careful that your music database (if it is non-trivial in size) is backed up somehow. Reinstalling will cause the encryption to get clobbered, and your "new" system won't, I think, be able to play or transfer the songs you have (in the PC). Probably this means running the File Conversion Tool, which is highly recommended on a regular basis anyway, since any System Restore usually causes the same problem. Best to tell us exactly what device you have, and we can advise you more precisely. Welcome to the forums. Stephen

I don't think the recordings made with my deck would sound as good as they do 'twere it not for Type-R. It may be that the transcoding in software doesn't always match the Type-R which is presumably done in the DSP chip(s). That would account for what I have observed, if so. Looks like SOME means in software work ok, but it's a bit hit-and-miss. SimpleBurner seems agreed to do a good job, for whatever reason.

I think not. You need one with a Unilink bus socket on the back, which the lower numbered models do not have. However a head unit that has one (my current and favourite is the CDX-GT510 which also has an Aux on the front) will slot in the same brackets and connectors that the 240 is already using, and should cost you (used) way less than retail on the 240. You can turn a small profit trading it in for a used head unit!! See for example this CDX-GT710. The ones sold recently on Ebay UK go for around 50 quid. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sony-CDX-GT710-Car-CD-MP3-Player_W0QQitemZ250609020273 Here's the unit I want myself, has bluetooth too. Just can't afford it right now and my 510 works fine. Also it's in the wrong country, too much shipping cost. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sony-MEX-BT5000-Car-CD-Stereo-Head-Unit_W0QQitemZ160418102231 Does that help? Note the manual for 240 and 340 shows that the 340 has all the extras like satellite/HD connections as well as the Unilink connector, that the 240 doesn't.

I use whatever bitrate I won't have to transcode. For CD->MD this means compressing using SonicStage to Atrac Advanced Lossless (which will generate "essentially" untouched PCM, OR Atrac3+ just as easily). In addition my MXD-D400 CD/MD deck does a nice job making both SP and LP2 digitally. For recording off the radio or internet, I use either LP2 or Hi-SP. In the case of LP2 I use a deck which has Type-R and this (and the advanced A->D built into the deck) makes sure the optimum use of the data is made to produce a full, rich sound despite compression. In addition I capture long radio compilations at LP4, and the sound is surprisingly reliable after upload. In the case of Hi-SP, I upload to the PC and never change its format again even if transferring back to MD for a compilation. In the case of LP2, I use the RH1 to upload it to the PC, and if I want to make a compilation, I transfer the LP2 **unchanged** to HiMD or MD (both work). Note that it's easy to put LARGE amounts of LP2 and LP4 onto HiMD media, almost twice as much (compared to NetMD) on the same physical medium, and up to 16.5 or 33 hours respectively on a single 1GB disk. I have a feeling that many of the reports comparing the different bit rates used flawed methodology, starting with a particular format (I already drew attention to what an appalling job SonicStage does at ripping PCM to the computer in the interests of speed) and transcoding that file to different rates. This doesn't work. I abandoned LP modes for the first 2 years after I got a portable because the quality was, frankly, crap. Once I worked out to leave the data alone, the LP modes started to shine. For live recording I use the RH1 and a 1GB disk, at PCM rate (1411Khz), 94 minutes max. This means that I have lots of headroom if I need to play with the signal (eg if it is underrecorded) after uploading. For transcription (re-mastering) of old analogue recordings, I capture at SP and then upload, either via optical or using the RH1 (and Sonic Stage's automatic WAV conversion), to the PC as a WAV file, which I can edit using one of the many tools (eg. CoolEdit or Audition) available. This avoids bad stuff getting into the signal because the inputs to the MD deck are really clean, and SP->WAV looks pretty good as long as you don't transfer *via* MD more than once.

420D?

Since when does the MZ-NE410 have Type-S? I recall looking through the docs and becoming convinced that it doesn't have it (I do own one).

Looks like this software is considered unauthorized by Sony and their lawyers have forced it to be removed. (I will stand corrected if anyone knows different). Suggest you bite the bullet and get the 4.3 "Ultimate" Sonic Stage from here on this forum (Avrin knows where it currently is), and you should be away to the races. You can even get it from Sony but sounds like you have a grudge against getting licensed software from the copyright owner.

You need a SONY head unit to work the changer, though. Unless Skoda happened to license Sony's proprietary Unilink bus technology including all the connectors..... Here's the interface for a Skoda factory headunit, assuming (big assumption) that it is still valid http://www.addacdchanger.co.uk/Mini_Disc_Products/MD_Changer_Interfaces/Skoda_MD_Changer_Interface_Adaptor/Interface_Adaptor_1/Skoda_MD_Changer_Interface_Adaptor_1_%28Sony%29 Kindof expensive when you can buy a Sony headunit for about 50 and the changer for about 120 (at a guess).

Just one problem, aren't April Fool jokes supposed to end at mid day?

Actually no, I am saying that the Type-S affects the ANALOG output in a very positive way. But that if you go digital you may not care. I think there is an effect on the soundstage when I go out optical, but I actually prefer the 640 based on a short test I just did. Similarly I am wondering if you may not even see the difference with the ES series if you spend some money on an amp with optical inputs.

My preference is still the integrated solution, for the following reasons: a. I accept the skipping thing for *regular* CD's but I absolutely reject it for Atrac CD's because in the compressed format so much more is read at a time that I see no reason for skipping except in travelling over a bumpy desert, and even then.... b. With the authorities getting tougher and tougher on in-car devices (and frankly I think they are absolutely right to, you should see the idiots in Vancouver) punching buttons on your player is a major distraction from driving. At least if the device is fixed to the car, you are legally OK, not to mention a lot safer. (yes I know some of the interfaces control the portable nicely but my sense is the Sony CD units handles skipping as well or better than the average portable - but I have no real evidence for saying this) c. Compressed CD's will "never" be stolen (in fact only Commercial CD's will go, your hand made copies will never get nicked either). Even if they are it's not a big deal to remaster them. Since they are a non-archival "one-way" format, you will never make one and throw away the source material d. Line out can have severe problems with connector, line noise, and line level. Not to mention the loose wire as just another hazard both to you and to itself. e. Charging is a nuisance, potentially another wire. I think Sony's car technology is terrific, for the low cost you can get it used, I think it beats the pants off the alternatives.

Sorry if am guilty of sounding like a broken record, but have you tried the optical output of the 333ES and comparing with optical output of something more lowly? I, as you know, possess an MDS-JE640 and an MXD-D400 both of which do MDLP. I am listening to an opera recorded this morning at LP2 on the (earlier, ?cheaper) 640, using the 640's optical out to my receiver. I took a look at the schematic, the optical out of the 640 goes absolutely STRAIGHT to the Toslink connector (give or take 1 component it needs to generate the right signal). I don't have a schematic of the D400 but if there is any possibility that it does Type-S conversion on the signal before sending to optical, then my choice would NOW be the 640. It may be my imagination but the 640 actually seems to sound better with A/B comparison. For analog out it was most definitely the pits on LP2. Before I had an amp with opti-in then the Type-S on the D400 was definitely worth having. Now I'm not so sure. (of course that deck is terrific for the ability to copy CD to MDSP but that's another whole issue). I guess you don't have a recent receiver because I think I mentioned this before (my apologies again) and I suspect you woulda jumped on it.... Stephen

Nice one Chris!

I would humbly direct you to the following thread and my answer therein http://forums.sonyinsider.com/index.php?showtopic=24261 I also have bought a used MDX-CA790X for wife's car (to which I attached a CD changer). But the CD deck with MD changer gives you more choices, IMO. There are a couple of things the 790X will do that an MD changer won't, but overall with the option of Atrac CD's in the head unit (you cannot put an Atrac CD in a changer, only MP3 disks in the 757 changer and similar) I like my setup better (of the 2). Finding anything that plays MDLP in the car is hard, so grab it, whether changer or head unit. There is no HiMD deck for the car, hence my preference (because you CAN put Atrac3+ HiMD format onto the Atrac CD's).

Forgive me asking this, but does the site sell luncheon meat in a tin (can), too?

Yeah - capturing sound with Windows is easy (at least with XP***) And doesn't really involve the sound card. Here's waverec - it's in German but that is a small price to pay for a brilliantly simple gizmo (it includes a timer and scheduler). And the only price! http://www.waverec.de Seems like a lot of great sound products for the PC are from Germany; TerraTec and Nero are there, and so is the team working on liberating the SonicStage monstrosity for NetMD transfer - there's a real interest and tradition for some reason. *** In a sense this is the "big hole" in Windows that the RIAA/MPAA people (have) want(ed) plugged from the very beginning of people manipulating sound on their PC's. 10 years ago it was self-limiting because HD capacities were smaller, but when you have people boasting about 8TB hooked to their HTPC's you can see the dilemma. Windows 7 undoubtedly is going to have all the content protection stuff so I am less sure about that raw ability, Vista must be somewhere betwixt and between.

I would ignore all of the above (no offence!) and use my Sound card on the PC that has optical out, recording to MD at an appropriate bit rate. The other means is to use something like WaveRec, which (AFAIK) makes only 1411 kHz LPCM "WAV" files, but honestly the optical input on the MD is the best way to get the Type-R bit reallocation to kick in and make a nice ATRAC version of whatever you found on the internet. If you're looking for cards with opti-out, there are many but the cheapest (which also has Opti-IN) is the Terratec, should be available to you in the UK. Stephen PS added shortly after.. I now see that maybe you don't have a PC, only a PC laptop (Macbooks tend to have optical out anyway). It really is a good idea to avoid Sound cards on PC's at least the analog side to them. You can make a bunch of wave files (wait until you got 'em all in one place) with WaveRec, burn them to a CD-R with Nero, then go from the CD to an MD with optical out from the CD player (which is pretty likely, though of course not assured).

You don't have "Quick Mode" on, do you? There's a note about that on Page 62.

What happens when you simply put the battery in and turn on the RH1? (I'm assuming no action) What happens when you put the battery in and connect up USB (not the charger)? Ordinary USB connection will usually charge the battery for you, too. If the answer to both of these questions is NADA, then I think Ian has given you good advice. It's just possible that his tip works for the wrong reason, however, you might be DIScharging an OVERcharged battery. Doesn't matter, still follow his suggestion, I think. I reported recently my daughter's cell phone battery mysteriously revived when she spilled liquid on it. I think that was the same sort of thing. I think it has to do with the charging circuits using voltage as a means for deciding when to stop and/or start charging. If the battery barely changes state (eg because you always run some particular device, be it MD or cell, off the charger) these discriminant (is that the right word?) voltages may get a bit out of whack as the battery gets older.