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Posts posted by sfbp
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Well, I absolutely know that my 640 won't work with PCLink. But I will go and look at CN820....
Why does it say "jumper" on each of those two components?
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Haha, this is a Japanese version of the 640 and it says (around) the keyboard port "PC-LINK (keyboard)"
How mysterious is that?
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FWIW, I seem to recall that my Japanese MXD-D5C, which works with PCLink, does NOT support the keyboard.
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(I'm pretty sure the PC3 does NOT support a keyboard)
The other place that might be interesting to look is the CMT-PX3 (aka DHC595MD). Mine is a Japan model and the PCLink definitely works. However chunks of the (English) SM don't correspond to reality, at least for my machine.
If we're desperate, my aged Pa has one of these now stashed in my sister's garage in Surrey. This is the UK model, of course.
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If i had infinite amounts of money I might have squandered $500 on the printer and a couple of cartridges that some kind soul is retailing on eBay. Neat as it is, I don't care enough, especially since the gizmo only works with SP disks (or that's what it looks like). Something in the protocol for MDLP must be different (remember the "LP" indicator?)
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IIRC the *Japanese* version of the JB940 actually allowed both keyboard and PCLink. However I never got any 940 in my hands, and I never got the Japanese SM for any of these decks.
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Starting to sound like bitcoin - people got nothing better to speculate on....... now the pubs are shut.
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27 minutes ago, kgallen said:
(@sfbp are you able to break this out and create a new topic with the last couple of messages here to preserve the OPs thread?)
Man, it's the middle of the night here. But you could do it easy-peasy, if you can decide which ones you want to move. Beyond me right now..... start by checking the box of each one you want to split off.
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hmmm if you can figure out how to add PC-Link to the 640 I for one would be eternally grateful.
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9 minutes ago, J. McCauley said:
@sfbp I’ll try that. I’m not seeing any repair disks on eBay. I was thinking of getting one along with putting in a new HDD.
Try typing "windows repair disks" into ebay search
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I'm surprised it doesn't boot directly from the SSD. However I am quite ignorant of VAIO tech. There are, as I say, on eBay numerous repair disks costing about $10.
What you might want to do is put in another HDD and see if it magically comes to life.
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Sadly this problem doesn't end with the MZ-RH1. The flagship MZ-RH10 (flagship for the 2nd generation HiMD, RH1 is the 3rd gen) also suffers abysmally from the same problem. In the RH10's case it's actually worse since there are some everyday functions you cannot do at all by remote. (At least with the RH1 most important stuff can be done using the RM-MC40ELK). The RH1 has limitations but its main importance (to me) is as an uploader for legacy MD. Those are completely unaffected.
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The boot is likely from the SSD.
Try completely removing the HDD and see if it boots. I assume you have the HDD backed up. They are pretty standard these days, a replacement should set you back under $50 if you look hard enough.
There are numerous disk repair packages on eBay - I cannot speak for them, but you are WAY ahead of the game since you have a DVD drive which is enough to install Windows from. You should be able to download the latest Windows 10 for free (perhaps on another machine) and it may even activate on your hardware (thanks to the wonders of EFI).
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When I say "the old interlock problem" (I know Kevin is lurking about my obscure comments), I have (like most of us?) seen the difficulty which it's quite easy to get a portable into, if it gets stuck or loses power when the OWH is engaged ( and therefore we are/were recording something ). I have, perhaps incorrectly, assumed that this situation with the OWH bent is a comparable one, kind of like someone who gets arrested, arms-behind-the-back, getting stuck so because the arresting officer and the arrestee managed to have a struggle where the shoulder (of the latter) got dislocated. In that case, the (very painful) cure is for someone, chiropractor-like, to jerk the shoulder back into its socket.
(as an aside) I always thought it funny that ordinary doctors seem to know how to do this manoeuvre even though the majority of the medical profession doesn't believe in proper "osteopathy" and calls it "bone crunching" in an effort to dissuade the public from using/receiving chiropractic/osteopathic services or manipulations.
So yes, there is a risk that getting everything back to normal will cause something to break. The alternative is stripping down and reassembling everything, which most of us cannot begin to do. Jonathan's description of how to twirk the poor MD drive's shoulder seems an apt metaphor - you have to bend it well beyond its normal position expectation to break the interlock holding it in an impossible position.
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Ahhhhhh the old interlock problem. Do not panic. This is exactly how most of these machines end up in the bin. Mine included - my first deck, and the only one that I ever had to get rid of.
Insights please NGY!?
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well done indeed
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Great stuff!
The Divide function (when done by buttons) is always
twothree-phase. So either there's a parameter there or you have to do some other command first.(edit)
Ok i get it, you tried the divide and THEN Div-Adj. 100 sounds like a quite a lot maybe too much.
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My experience with portables is that the power adjustment can fail. So you have a good supply but it judges itself to be inadequate.
At least twice I have revived a portable by doing the very first few electrical adjustments, that set the power voltages for the operation of the machine. The other ones can be followed but i do not initially recommend doing the "911" CLEAR ALL action as you will then have many other things to worry about.
For the 510, I believe it starts on page 25. None of these power supply adjustments should affect the important laser settings.
You SHOULD set the temperature value to correspond to the room you are working in.
Good luck!
PS if it's really gone sideways at this point you will need to do a full servo alignment (automated). Nothing to be scared of but you will need a pre-recorded disk (CD) as well as a blank, new regular disk (don't even think about using one that's been near a HiMD portable!).
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Hooray!
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Usually you can find one somewhere..... eg ebay
Try "minidisc album" and select "buy it now" and sort by price. I found some for under 8 pounds.
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Now I understand, you are saying you need a CD to get going on adjustment. Sorry about that.
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If prerecorded (CD) mode works, most likely you have to do something check out the adjustment of the laser through the service procedures.
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So the eject is happening mostly because of the disk read errors. That makes perfect sense. Gyula does that mean the laser is dying?
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You will have to check the internet actual settings.
This is not about Vaio per se, and you would be better off in a PC/Win forum.
However, pull a command prompt, type "ipconfig /all" and tell us what you get.
IF you really think it's Chrome, try IE instead to download something. But first you have have to establish connectivity.
Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Posted
This is from my last visit to this particular quagmire (I had blocked it out because I got exactly nowhere). I think you will find I've done the obvious connections.