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Posts posted by sfbp

  1. Sorry, no. Once there is a single error on a disk it is generally corrupted. I would investigate the GPL software being developed at #linux-minidisc and also the WebMiniDisc project. On HiMD they are basically just files. So you would be well advised to use one of these or SonicStage for backup in future.

    Maybe if you had a friend with a PC. I have relatives with an iMac which ran Windows (parallels) that seemed to run SS quite fine.

  2. 31 minutes ago, NGY said:


    Kevin came up with the idea of using that extension board, that would save him fabricating a pcb. My reply was meant that the 7 pin standalone sockets are available and cheaper, and he might either use them on an 8 pin breakout board without risking a short circuit, or make his own board like mine, if he wanted to, for what I have the film layout.

    But as we are here, let me ask you if the two you (also, Stephen?) are interested in a jig board, with the 7 pin SMD socket already soldered on it and drilled for the test pins. You can then add/solder the pins you like and use your own ribbons. At no cost to you, even postage is minimal for such a tiny item. Let me know - sometime during the winter I will have to make one for a friend, and once I am already in those chemicals, I can do two or three more within the same "overhead".

    The correct response (by me) to that is a question: "Is the Pope (a) Catholic?"

    Of course, and I'll happily pay for postage to these distant shores from Pest



  3. The 640 is probably my most loved and most reliable deck. Add that the fact your Euro-version comes with Coax on the second digital input, I think compared to the other one, it's probably an ok purchase. I had to change the belt, I think.

    All deck prices seem to have gone up in lockdown this year, everyone opening up their store cupboard and using MD again.

    If you need the convenience of the computer control, then you want a 770 (it's the only one available in non-domestic - "domestic" = Japanese for this purpose - model //except for the PC3// which has the PC-link interface). You'll still need a PCLK-MN10 or 20 but these don't cost that much to get from Japan as they are not heavy. Even then you have problems because I'm still too lazy (or incompetent) to figure out how to force the 32-bit PCLKUSB.sys driver to work on Windows 64. I'm sure it can be done, but I keep hoping someone else will do it.

    The PC3 is really nifty, can act as DAC and ADC, and is tiny.

    If you want to do really nasty tricks to get audio in and out you may need something that defeats SCMS, like the Behringer 2496 Ultramatch Pro - but I'm sure that can wait until you've "got the bug".

    Did you check the historical selling prices? You can easily see which decks didn't sell, too (eg for silly prices like 999.99 for a JB980).

  4. Start by looking for a JE640. If you can't then a JE770 is good and additionally supports PC-Link interface (but not keyboard). The only type-S deck worth having is JB980 (the 780 is a bit flimsy by all accounts, as is the 770).


    Only problem is he wants way too much for postage.

    I'm sure you'll find something. Interesting trick: go through ebay and look at the concluded sales and see how much previous items went for

  5. There's always been a problem with deleting identically named (including unnamed) tracks. Not sure if this is your problem but worth checking into. I'm sure you're aware that the "transfer to PC" function on NetMD only "recovers" the rights, and doesn't  move any music from the device back to the computer. Strange things may happen if the music is gone from the PC in the meantime.

    HIstorically, the only way to recover "wrecked" NetMD disks is using a deck that predates NetMD, since the track protect flag is not recognised.

    That, or a portable with a busted (or missing) overwrite head.

    If I didn't suspect you may actually have a hardware problem, perhaps it might be worth looking at WebMiniDisc since it doesn't seem to care about TrProtect (in fact it doesn't set the flag when copying tracks to the device). Maybe it can format the disk, I didn't check.

    When you say "till recently", what changed? A new version of Windows perhaps? It's likely that a feature update to the next edition of Windows 10 would zap the unsigned driver, and you may have to go through the rigmarole of installing it again (if you did it before, you can do it once more).


  6. Assuming Windows 64 (with 32 bits you have very little problem as the original driver works and is signed by Sony)


    See the top download in our downloads section

    You will need to disable driver signing enforcement (assuming Windows 10) for one boot cycle, long enough to install the driver.

    There's tons of posts on this site which I will not repeat now unless you get really stuck. Good luck!

  7. I reread the thread Charlie. Thanks for all that. Just to point out that you are perilously close to breaking a policy which we very painfully established (mainly because a certain individual spent his entire life attempting to trespass on our good natures), namely that self-posted eBay ads are not acceptable.

    I think this is fine, as it stops just short of actually posting a link. But I wanted to post this publicly so that those lurking can understand that we take a dim view of those who seek to promote their business via the forum. I absolutely don't count you in that number - and that the end of the thread where it is all described is totally appropriate to mention it.

    'nuff said

    Kind regards


  8. Exactly. It's almost the only one that does, IIRC.

    So, the question is, does your problem somehow arise from something connected to the NiCd technology? You won't get any power from USB, that is in the definition of NetMD (and USB 1.1).

    Are you sure your charger is working?

    Have you measured battery output voltage both unconnected and under (presumably) load in the device? Seems to me this smells of power failure. Even if it doesn't work with Duracells, the chances are something in the power circuitry is messed up. I wonder whether you have any battery decomposition perhaps?

    Kind regards

  9. 4 hours ago, kgallen said:

    Yea ok so that jack on the front is TRS balanced and there is only one channel on that box so if your MD material has any stereo material then you're going to need to merge them, which will take a couple of resistors and a bit of faffing about.

    Otherwise you will need that 3.5mm TRS jack (MD end) to 2x 6.35mm TS jacks and just plug one of them into the Scarlett and you'll have to pick the left or right channel to work with...

    I cheated. I pulled the jack half way out. Works perfick, to quote Pop Larkin.

    Nite all

  10. So it's really hot, then. Hot air, in fact.

    It will likely NOT be convenient to find a Coax output, however I do have a converted TOSlink<->Coax and I just ordered another $10 wonder that extracts SPDIF Opt and Coax from an HDMI source (wonders will never cease!).

  11. Stephen was taking SO to post office to mail an unmailable parcel. Still unmailable as the address for mailing got left behind.

    The mic is absolutely fine, its a Shure SM58. Thanks, I had already been warned about 48V. That thing is built like a tank though. What I am curious (RTFM) what the "Air" button does. Both inputs seem to work regardless of whether their associated button is pushed.

    If none of this works, it renews my determination to revive the very old MOTU that I have that has ALL the things you mention. However I don't think my portable will give me SPDIF out so there's another whole layer of complexity feeding something that does Coax out. Incidentally the MOTU SPDIF connector is a 5-pin DIN (ugh). Nah, there's Coax too.

    Blast, the postie says he was forbidden to bring the new (used) Mac and it's sitting at the Sub PO and won't be available till tomorrow. The MOTU absolutely refused to work with a Firewire 400 sound card in a PC, sigh, but I know it works fine with a VERY OLD Mac. Hence the excursion into Focusrite territory. Also curious because the Focusrite is the only thing that I can find that gets low latency because they have their own ASIO driver. So if I end on PC then I have to investigate sofware mixers, and on Mac maybe the Motu stuff will do what I need.

  12. It's barely a mixer.

    The absolute simplest thing that supports a "real" microhone and headphones and works with USB hopefully without any latency


    I'm new at this "pro" stuff, all these galumphing great jacks I don't really want.....

    The simple aim of this device (for me) is to input a sound stream from a music device, and mix that with speaking on a a microphone (plugs in on the left).

    The rest ought to be do-able in software but this part seems easiest without.

  13. If I set a minidisc or other portable to LINE OUT, what other problems can i expect feeding that into a common-or-garden sound jack on a mixer or other pro sound equipment? I have a cable with 3.5mm on one end and 6mm on the other (1/4"). Both are stereo jacks but the receiving end is defiantly mono. No idea how to fix that.

    What I do know is that with some combination of adapters that the sound was very iffy and dependent on twiddling the jacks. However even with my nice new direct cable with gold contacts on each end there are still some problems with limiting (and the sink device supposedly has tons of headroom) as i increase the volume beyond about half way round the dial.

    For the record, for this test I used an NW-HD5, battery fully charged. Sounds fine into headphones.

  14. 2 hours ago, kris01 said:

    Once again the misnomer "over-light" crops up.

    Prompts me to tell a story relating to the most successful (non-hiTech) entrepreneur of our times in British Columbia, a certain Jimmy Pattison, he of Scots background and certainly that Scottish austere, disciplined take-no-prisoner approach to business (25 car dealerships at last count).

    He also founded a grocery chain known as Save On Foods. However out on Vancouver Island, the stores are still known as OverWaitea (dropped the name when he expanded to the mainland, I guess). Why? Because when he first started in business running a grocery, when someone came in to buy a quarter pound of TEA, he always made sure that they got more than they paid for. Hence "over-weight-tea" became Overwaitea.

    And you all thought the name had something to do with being fat (most people here instinctively assume that)! I wish some more business leaders and politicians were good at that sort of customer relations instead of getting fat at our expense.

    Sorry for the digression.

  15. NGY: I think if you post twice it may under certain circumstances combine the posts. For example when you quote 2 different posts. Not sure, though. Never tried to do it on purpose only by accident. (I think you may be able to join two of your own posts after the fact, too)

    Yeah, this is getting weird isn't it.

    I'm wondering about a very noisy powersupply. THOSE might degrade at the same month in history.

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