-
Posts
6,670 -
Joined
-
Days Won
11
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Downloads
Posts posted by sfbp
-
-
The one that's in our downloads section.
This stuff works, provided you have the right driver.
I have no clue why slow but SS does have some strange code so I would turn off DEP protection as well as all realtime Windows Defender functionality. Honest!
-
The simplest method is undoubtedly "don't use Beatjam".
We don't know much about it here. However, you don't even need an xp VM if you use SonicStage. You'll need our version, and (probably) the 64-bit driver for NetMD.
Kind regards
-
Here's one for you folks en Angleterre, looks like the same ol same ol and the guy doesn't know about SIF:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-MDS-E58-Minidisc-Player-Recorder-Faulty/184694710868
-
Just did the rebuild as per Jimma original and worked perfectly
-
BTW I think it's probably fair to say that at sub 1mW (READ MODE) these things are safe. But of course a completely maladjusted or random failed circuit might be able to churn out more.
The time you really need to be careful (with an already-functioning OP laser) is when the power is 10x that, which it is in WRITE MODE. Fair? Also pointing out that you may eventually likely blow the laser if you leave it on for too long in the service mode write mode. Remember in write mode, you are heating things up bigtime - what if that was your eye? Sort of analogous to frying certain parts of you in a microwave, even though microwave ovens are pretty safe.
The MD lasers run at 780nm which is just barely into the infrared spectrum. It's the coherence of a laser which makes it so dangerous.
The NHS advert currently running on uk tv about stroke F.A.S.T (and calling 999) pictures someone's head catching fire - my immediate thought was "MD Laser".
-
Nice to see you too, Philippe.
Yes, 352 might be ok, but a. it's unusual b. it uses a bit more space c. not sure it makes that much difference
I like AAL especially because it's well set up to be transferred to legacy MD (LP2).
But plain 256k HiSP is a particularly good choice because now it works with VLC (and ffmpeg) right out of the box, EVEN IF ENCRYPTED (protected).
-
4 hours ago, kgallen said:
No, it's just I'm getting the hang of reading into Stephen's obscure comments and trying to piece together what he's getting at!
Perfectly possible I got hold of the wrong end of the wrong stick.
All we succeeded to do was disrupt the thread. My apologies! Nothing more to see here!
Please continue!
Nah, I'm the "higgerunt" one here. Guilty as charged.
-
I have said this many times before - from the POV of the best audio experience, playing the exact bits from 16-bit CD may not be exactly what you want. There are a significant number of people who have observed that ATRAC encoding actually makes the sound "better" however that is defined. Remember that ATRAC is a 24-bit (logarithmic) format, and a real CD in a real CD player is slightly better than the 16 bits nominal (somewhere between 18 and 20 bits). You only get the best performance from an actual CD if you have oversampling. I don't think Sony ever did that with their PCM (honestly, it was IMO a "mere" selling point to use LPCM) on MD.
-
33 minutes ago, Ragodin said:
Thanks guys
Quick response before I redo the video
I don't get any error message it goes straight from TOC reading to eject. I guess the reason for this is that the reading head seems to get stuck and moves a very short distance before returning to its start position
Hmm - isn't that a normal event? Going to start, moving in a bit, then back to outside........... the failure you then see being from what it found (or in this case failed to find).
(don't take any notice of me, it's so long since I had one of these apart I can't even remember if it goes inwards like a CD, or outwards from the centre).
-
All I'm really saying is that not all 6V power supplies are equal.
The official 6v Sony one works. I have tried other ones (allegedly 6V) with less success!I now remember why I commented on the PC3. Its socket is the wrong size for most other 9V adapters! However the right size for 6V. (again I may have that backwards, knowing me)
-
Good job.
As I sort of suspected.
So the HD3 and the NH1 are electrically equivalent. Excellent news.
You will have your work cut out reviving that battery. It's probably a goner. Jimma's solution works.
The other oddity in all this is I am far from convinced that the NH1 really needs a 6V powersupply. It may WELL be it needs more like 9 V. Why? Because I have noticed that the MDS-PC3 seems confused about whether it needs 6V or 9V, AND the NH1 supplied powersupply (6V) seems to be the only one that actually charges it correctly.
I think somebody under/over-specified something.
I'm certain Kevin and Gyula will know what's going on from my thumbnail sketch. I'm not sure I do.
-
I have one of those gizmos for my NW-HD3. Unfortunately the "retaining plate" which nicely fits it for the NW-HD3 makes it physically impossible to put that in the MZ-NH1. It looks as if it should go but in fact the connector is upside down and it simply doesn't fit.
You could cut that plate off but I think that might compromise the solidity of the connection for the HD3. I'm guessing (BUT CANNOT AFFIRM THIS) perhaps the resultant cut-down BCA-NWHD3 might charge and allow USB access all at once to the MZ-NH1. But there might just a a reason that doesn't work. That's perhaps why the NH1 comes with: a. the data cable and b. the charge stand. You cannot use both at the same time. It's possible that there some electrical reason (on the NH1, only) that they didn't want two types of power hooked up simultaneously.
Sadly I'm not prepared to wreck an NH1 and/or the BCA-NWHD3 to find out. Kevin or Gyula can probably puzzle over the schematics to try to figure out whether it makes sense to use that other adapter (after it's been chopped up) on the MZ-NH1.
(it's true that they don't charge ***via*** USB, Richard. But they charge via that same connector!)
-
Depends on the disk inserted. NH900 and all HiMD units will play both HiMD formatted and legacy-formatted (NetMD or MD) disks. You never need a driver for HiMD, you always need a driver for legacy, even in a HiMD unit. If you got the N707 going (I am assuming 64-bit Windows) then the same driver will be needed that you just installed (that you got from our downloads sections).
-
Double-sigh. The NH1 does ***NOT*** charge from the cable alone. Sorry for raising false hope. The MZ-RH1 does, however.
Further error by me - the LIP-4WM has only 2 terminals. So that other device would be safe. Doesn't buy you transfer to a PC though. To answer your other question, having computer hooked to stereo may be just as effective, and much less costly.
-
Hard to tell from the description. I don't much like the sound of having to "move the adjusters" for the + and - terminals, when most Li-Ion batteries actually have 3 terminals.
I'd be inclined to check out this:
Sorry I don't remember if it fails to charge without the stand but I think not; that stand is very nice but a cosmetic detail, especially since you can't do USB to it (if my memory serves correctly). I would also comment that you do NOT want to be always removing and reinserting the LIP-4WM which is a really tight fit. Once it becomes less than tight, your connection (to the battery terminals) may become quite unreliable.
There is a stand for sale in Germany (no cable). Sigh.
-
best and most reliable is to do a SS backup to xternal HD, then restore to new installation
Before you do ANY of that, make certain you deprotect all your tracks by running the File Conversion Tool. That way the raw files CAN be imported. If not, you're out of luck with that approach (file-by-file) and may never hear some of your music ever again.
-
-
Fair enough, the actual contents of the ROM were not published. But the description was published of the invention and its methodology, so whether a particular implementation is a trade secret is hardly a thorny question when you consider what's happened, generally, in the last 23 years in terms of law about such things.
I don't believe anyone is in legal jeopardy here. The owners of any copyright would have to go to great lengths to protect something so old, and they probably can not.
The only legal issue is from those who USE the technology to break some sort of intellectual-property protection of ideas or data. And that ship has sailed a long time ago.
Rest easy.
-
There's no way it is protected by patent, way too much time has gone by. It's not a trade secret, since it was published. So you have zero worries about copyright. Charge ahead!
-
Hmmm - that looks suspiciously like a Sony controller (non-MD). I wonder if the codes are related?
To clarify, it's the only manufacturer who made one with those dimensions and that shape of buttons.
-
5 hours ago, NGY said:
I second to Kevin, none of my MD discs I have ever bought (first one back in early 1998 or so) had any trouble with recording onto, even these days, but one or two (out of ~1400-ish).
I echo that.... the only thing that appeared to be brand-of-md-related is the report I and others made with some disks with transparent cases (the TD RXG) recording ok, but not playing back well on some other devices eg my MDX-66XLP car MD changer.
-
So we're thinking the spots are patches of lubricant?
-
Please note that the (optical) socket doubles as a standard stereo line input when you insert a normal 3.5mm jack. This is not coax digital but line-in analogue.
-
10 hours ago, kgallen said:
Writing the titles is the same process as writing the audio data. On the basis of that argument, the best way to "save your machine" is to never record an MD. The audio data on an MD is around 200 megabytes (say 200,000,000 bytes). Any titles will be at most a few hundred bytes (say 200 bytes). Go figure!
Maybe this tale comes from the AMS knob "wearing out" selecting each of the letters. From experience, using that method is more wearing on the human performing the labelling process than the machine!
Glad your deck is back to life, heartening to hear!
I think the advice probably originated from wearing out the (finite?) number of button pushes required from some more primitive forms of MD Decks, especially Pre-NetMD. The RM-D20P solves *that* problem, at least for decks. Trying to label things on a portable is IMHO a thankless task.
beatjam help
in Software
Posted
WTG