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fyrebug last won the day on February 5 2015

fyrebug had the most liked content!

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  • Minidisc units
    MZ-e10, MZ-R55, MZ-R90, MetMD MZ-N707, bookshelf CMT-M333NT, MDS-JE510

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  1. Updated 3D model. I 3D printed some tests and it fits. So I'm going to make master molds. I can then produce these plastic jewel case inserts in small batches for sale or trade (mini discs). it'll take a few weeks before the final molds arrive though. The rest of the world might have given up on Mini disc. but I haven't...
  2. yup making sense and I like the idea of there being some wall space! the main idea behind the wall design is simply making a rack that uses less material. thus cheaper to produce, but also kind of cool. I am thinking with the wall unit I could angle the disc slots at a slight downward angle and that might help hold them in. I haven't tested this setup yet becuase I wasn't sure if I really liked it or not. And thanks for the positive feedback guys! It looks like there's interest in this idea so once everything fits together I'd print high quality masters, then make rubber molds. after that I can make lots of duplicates.
  3. Just an update. printing blocks of 10 felt a little clumsy so I've changed the design to a more modular approach. the example image is of 2 rows tall, but it can be as tall as desired and added onto or changed at any time. in the second render I've changed the colors to show the different parts. In this example 2 side panels are used in the upper level centre so that a minidisc player could be put on display instead of just discs (that's what the grey block represents). Or double sided rails could be swapped in and you could put discs there. It's like lego. The connectors slide into place back to front. exploded view
  4. I use optical right now. Just the built in optical on my motherboard. From what I've read because the optical is a digital signal there are no good or bad ones really, there shouldn't be any degradation because it's never converting it to analog. is that right?
  5. Ok! this is great, thanks everyone for your replies! I'm on windows 7 64bit, so I'll go through the hassle of installing sonic stage but it'll be worth it. right now I record with winamp and have a plug-in that adds 3 second delays between tracks, but if foobar2000 is better I'll use that. I was really worried it was going to be more difficult so this is really good news.
  6. Hi everyone, so I'm a full fledged N00b. I'm sure some ways are easier, harder, cheaper, expensive. Just wondering what my options are. I prefer recording SP disks via optical out, and I'm not interested in netMD compression. I've seen ir remotes with keyboards on them and I've seen hacks for the remote that allow old dos machines to program the disk titles via serial or printer port. Is there a way to perhaps edit the titles of the disk that have already been recorded inside a netMD? Would sonicStage allow me to do this? I've seen there are some install issues so I wanted to ask first before installing it. This is the list of devices I have if it helps MZ-e10 MZ-R55 MZ-R90 MetMD MZ-N707 bookshelf CMT-M333NT (netmd with optical and usb) MDS-JE510 thanks.
  7. Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed
  8. This is a super rough version but I thought I would tackle this for fun. Seeing as canford doesn't have these inserts anymore, it does make sense to 3d print them. Seeing as I design 3d printers and 3d scanners, I'm never opposed to solving issues with 3d printing.. I'm printing this rough version now to see how it measures. I prefer to eyeball things rather than spend 4 hours with a set of calipers, too many other projects to spend 4 hours on, easier to just print and then tweak it. Once I get things aligned correctly I'll chamfer the edges and bevel it.
  9. Any help at all is appreciated punkrockaddict. Thanks! what do you mean by looking into "SM"? I'm not sure what that means but if there's some way I can force it to give me an error code rather than just "error" that would be great.
  10. Hi everyone, I'm new here and stumbled on this forum as someone else had recently posted another topic about e10's but it was a little light on details. the search function at the top didn't like me searchign for "e10" or mz-e10" so appologies if there's another thread about this. I know many of you here have fixed them before. I realize it's also very difficult. I have 3 mz-e10's at the moment and have taken them apart MANY times and actually have one working unit! It works great! I got into minidiscs actually recently, I just like them for some reason, I guess I'm strange. what I'd like to do is to try my best to get one of the other 2 units working. Both units seem to charge and give me the 60 min or so countdown, but then both display ERROR on the remote's lcd. swapping batteries or mechanicals doesn't seem to help. from what I've read, the fact that the display says "error" means the mainboards aren't dead and there's hope, but it doesn't really tell me what to do to fix them. I do surface mount soldering so I'm not afraid of a soldering iron, though these boards do look very difficult to get at. any tips? thanks
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