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Posts posted by kgallen
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I’d give it a bit of use before anything more invasive. Sorry can’t be of more use!
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Yea just cut the tracks and solder to the through hole pins of CN671 - possible since those traces don’t go anywhere else as you’ve spotted from the PCB layout. Pretty easy if you’ve got some solid core kynar mod wire like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262293229036?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cPqkJZIKSwG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=nsjPidUXSvu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I’m still a bit bemused that the rotation is reversed!
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Fab!
If you write something maybe you’d post it on the wiki too?
Add a repair section on this page:
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2 minutes ago, imkidd57 said:
As a practical update, with your advice kgallen I reversed the connections A and B of PEC11L onto the PCB with some thin insulated wire, and the encoder rotation is now as it should be: turning clockwise increases the track number count, and also progession through the menus. Push switch still works as expected and the whole left-hand side PCB fits back onto the main front panel.
Because of the lack of support by the two pins now not soldered onto the board, as a precaution, I added a collar to the threaded bit of the shaft so it would fit exactly in the hole of the main front panel (you can see that the Sony original part is a lot thicker (9mm) and a snug fit in the hole). This should help counteract any inadvertent sideways stress on the remaining PCB connections during rotation of the AMS knob.
Thanks for the update and info. That is weird. I wonder if Sony had a custom part made for some reason. I’ve suspected that before - the headphone volume control on one of my MDS-E10 or E12 didn’t seem to be a standard part. That mounts to the PCB to the side so the flat on the shaft needs to be at a different position to get the knob marker to line up between the min and max position. Also I couldn’t find the correct resistance (I can’t remember now if it was 1k or 5k).
For @sfbp I think the ‘L’ is maybe low profile and the ‘R’ is probably ‘regular’.
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Just now, sfbp said:
L and R - are those the direction of "increase" when turned?
Well I was musing that but I don’t see that in the data sheets. For both, CW rotation suggests A pulses before B. But that’s looking on a phone. I really want to get the two data sheets up side by side to compare…
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Interesting yours is ‘PEC11L’ and mine are ‘PEC12R’.
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The two encoders I bought for my Tascam MD-CD1 are:
MD Pitch control: Bourns PEC12R-4230F-S0024 (=Alps EC12E24244A4), RS 781-6809
MD Jog: Bourns PEC12R-4225F-S0024, RS 781-6811
Both are 24 step with switch, D shaft (first being 30mm, second 25mm).
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Yea agree, don’t see anything in the data sheet. A leads B as I expected.
I’ll aim to do some more research when I get on a ‘proper’ computer (rather than a phone!). I’ll dig out the part I used for my Tascam (I realise it will be different to what you likely need but it will give us a comparison).
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Yes it would be A and B contacts. Strange the rotation should be reversed. This will be down to which of A or B leads. Usually those two signals are 90 degrees out of phase with, I presume, A leading. How strange, but otherwise great news.
Is there anything in the data sheet for the part you used that might suggest this, or that it’s something that exists as a part variant?
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No didn’t entertain that guy with my cash. Have two 480’s, both a bit dodgy if I remember, I don’t use them mainstream. Main home decks are my MDS-E12, 940 from you and original 520 plus MZ-R700 at work.
Three rack mount MDS-E12 (plus CDP-D12 CD) and Tascam MDCD-1 dubber for the theatre stuff.
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On 2/15/2023 at 9:49 PM, imkidd57 said:
[EDIT] Well Farnell didn't have the push switch version, but RS have a Bournes unit that seems to fit the spec. I'm picking a couple up this morning and will feed back success or failure ;-).
Great! Please let us know how you get on and ping back if there are any other queries we might help with!
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Usually an Alps or Bourns and 18 or 24 pulses per rotation are usual.
24 should do it. The main issue I’ve found is finding one with the correct shaft length.
I replaced one on my Tascam MD-CD1 but I’ve not needed to do a Sony.
Think I got mine from RS.
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What’s good enough for @BearBoy is good enough for me… we’re like a pair of wide-eyed kids in a sweet shop.
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3 hours ago, BearBoy said:
Did you get a chance to give it a try, @kgallen?
No not yet, been up to my eyes (and ears) with get-ins, tech and dress rehearsals. Performances this week. Maybe in the next couple of weeks when I’m over this show run.
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Thanks for the listing link that’s really useful. Looks like the 780 or 980 (or S500 or NT1).
I was thinking about deck just for convenience so I can leave it connected up to the PC and they tend to be more robust. Maybe I should have a play with one of my portables, I’m sure I must have at least one working NetMD one!
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13 hours ago, BearBoy said:
Hey @Richard, good to see you've found your way back 🙂
And a big thanks to @Christopher for getting things back up and running 👍
Ditto.
Finding SIF works on Chrome on iPhone11, Firefox on Win10 but won't resolve ("This site can't be reached") on Chrome on Win10 (maybe I need to clear the cache or something?).
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TL;DR Which MD deck is the "best" for using with a Windows PC (Win10) and Web Minidisc Pro or Platinum MD apps. When I say "best" I mean the most reliable (connection and transfer) and a machine that I have a fighting chance of finding in the UK and where SP mode works well and sounds good.
Those of you who frequent here will know that I do sound for a number of local theatre groups. During a performance I play music and sound effect tracks from MD using my MDS-E12 machines. Generally I will have two, one for the music (backing track) cues and one for the sound effects/incidental music and the like. The tracks are prepared on a PC with Audacity then I go through the laborious task of burning the tracks to CD-R using NeroBurning ROM, then I go downstairs and use my Tascam MD-CD1 to dub the CD-R across to each MD. Then if required I have to do some post editing on the MD - usually on the sound effects tracks - to trim them back to their required length. [Since CD enforces a minimum 4 second track length, many SFX tracks get bloated out to 4s when naturally they are 2s or less. The length needs to be trimmed (and MD will allow such short tracks) because they might need to be played back in quick succession and I don't have the time to allow that bloated track length to play the extra 2s of silence.]. Then after all of this messing about I need to listen very carefully to all of the MDs in real time to ensure nothing went haywire in all of this process and corrupted the audio or track titling - and if there is an issue I have to go back around the loop again. This is very time consuming...
I'm doing this mastering process now for our panto which is coming up in early January (oh yes it is! [before @BearBoy gets me again!])... and it got me wondering, now that we have some great apps like Web Minidisc Pro and Platinum MD, could I cut out the middle-man (the CD-R) and just write the MDs directly from the PC. That would save a lot of faff...
Now I know some of you are looking skyward and slapping your forehead because you have been doing just this for a long time. But you've probably been doing it with portables. But despite my rather healthy stock of MD machines I've never got into the NetMD thing. Basically because I'm more of a decks fella and I don't have a 980.
So... what are my realistic options here for deck machines? And as above, ones that work with NetMD and these apps reliably... Pros/cons of each candidate machine?
(I just rewatched the Techmoan video...)
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For completeness I’ll add his belt change video (although I think most of us here are already pretty experienced at this).
Applies to most consumer and pro decks, combos and hifi units from about year 2000 since they all use one or other variant of the MDM7 drive (MDLP Type-R, Type-S and high speed dub units).
I’ll add again that my preferred supplier for the belts is Charles Holt who had belts made to our spec for this drive.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194744734027
See the link on the minidisc wiki repair page for the same belt change:
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6 hours ago, BearBoy said:
You don't hang around 😂
Good to hear it's fixed 🙂
I know exactly which screws I need to take out now 😆, which is not all of them 😆! For a 2000-era unit it seems quite serviceable. Screws rather than breakable plastic clips hold the thing together.
It does still have a couple of niggles - there is a pixel row and column of the main LCD that are out and it persists on still going into demo mode (which it shouldn’t do once the clock is set!). Needs some more investigation at some point. But the MD section is fully working. 👍
Noisy MZ-N910
in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Posted
161 yes.
Clean it if you can. Then a tiny amount of the Molykote with a cocktail stick. Ideally with the OP on the outer track (which should be easy in a portable as the OP isn’t usually ‘homed’ as it is in a deck). Then when the OP tracks back to the centre it should spread the grease along the worm gear.
I’m not sure how much it will help though! Cleaning any hardened old stuff off is more important.