Jump to content

The Low Volta

VIP's
  • Posts

    2,115
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Low Volta

  1. but if you haven't got this music on any other medium (like CD,...) you could always transfer it in realtime to PC as described here
  2. for about the same type of phones, but slightly better built (used them for three months intensively without any problem whatsoever) and for an even lower price, check out the Panasonic RP-JE50... they can be found on ebay for $25 sometimes (and not much more expensive most of the time)
  3. you can always check the minidisc.org equipment browser or the reviews section here on MDCF for full descriptions of these models... but in a nutshell: the RH10 has 2 big advantages over the NH900: - it plays MP3's natively (so no reconversion needed as opposed to the NH900 which converts them to Atrac3+) - it has an OLED (organic light emitting display) which means it is the only HiMD model (except for the camera one) with a lit display on the recorder... and the OLED really is beautiful (though the NH900 comes with a backlit remote RM-MC38EL) the NH900 has some advantages as well: - even though the RH10 is aluminum underneath, the cover is a plastic coating which isn't really scratch/scuff resistant, while the NH900 is half aluminum (front) half (strong/hard) plastic (back) - if you can find it, it will probably be cheaper than the RH10 so you can spend some on the RM-MC40ELK remote which is 3-line and backlit and works wonders with the NH900 (works with the RH10 as well, but with less features... can't keep the backlight permanently on nor display artist/album/track-info simultaneously) one thing to keep in mind: only the Japanese RH10 comes with an LCD remote (and charging cradle, which won't be of any use on a bike ) so the N-Am, European and world models etc come with a limited non-LCD remote hope this helps
  4. first... what country do you live in? second... if you do not mind buying from ebay, the RP-JE50 can be found for about $25 (shipped from Hong Kong) ... that's the way I got mine (in Belgium)
  5. Panasonic RP-JE50... much more bass than the Senn's and cheaper than the Sony's (BTW, if you do get the Sony ones, do not get the white ones... why look like one of the ipuddle when you're not?)
  6. for questions about such non-MD stuff I guess you'd get more response over at our atraclife sister forum
  7. search these forums for reviews of the DHP by Richyhu... the model has no mic in nor line in I believe, only USB
  8. indeed A440, you're too good for your own good! too helpful I mean, a simple question like "how does one decode to wave" just triggers your response even though you've actually answered it already... and then I go and answer it again
  9. call me oldfashioned... but I really like the simplicity of these discs... together with the bitclub photo discs these must be my fav discs (at least of what I've seen...I only own the standard sony black 80mins, dark-purple 1gb's and crystal blue 1gb's myself...boooooring, but all I can find here in Belgium!) and Ishii... could you take my ID-pic? you can even make the blandest stuff shine on photo, so perhaps you could actually make me look human on my ID-pic (just check my personal pic, so you know what I mean)
  10. ^^^ which would be totally correct A440... if he wanted to convert his uploaded recordings to wav, but he is looking for an MP3->wav converter you could try dbpoweramp, it can convert a number of formats easily, but perhaps for MP3 there are better options
  11. The Low Volta

    LP4 + Mono

    on the contrary... no matter how good (cfr SP) or how bad (cfr LP4) the lossy compression is you're using... the main rule is GIGO: garbage in = garbage out. what do I mean with this? well, if you rip from CD->LP4, you will have a better result than MP3->LP4 because a lossy compression (LP4) leaves out info so starting from full info (CD) will give the codec a better option to select which info to leave out, while using MP3 (another lossy compression so already reduced info) means two lossy compressions are used so info will be dropped two times (and no, they do not simply drop the same info ) bottom line... whenever you use a lossy compression, just go for the best quality source material to start from, as the worse the source is, the worse the result
  12. just read this (and audacity can be downloaded from the downloads section)
  13. well, I would simply say, if you do not want to spend a lot on 'buds and you are not really (or or better: 'really not') bass oriented they aren't that bad their highs are crisper than the stockbuds and the bass can be raised with eq'ing, but they are a bit harsh in my ears and the bass still isn't deep enough but, compared to the stock-buds, they are a big improvement (IMHO) and I do use them when biking, as the panasonics isolate so much that I risk being hit by some truck from behind without ever knowing what it was that hit me... so indeed richyu, perhaps sound-isolating phones aren't ideal in traffic and the pana's 'whissle in the wind' (even soft winds create a sharp whissling noise) so it's a bit like comparing aplles and oranges... the sound of the panas is much better, but they aren't outdoor phones, while the Senn's are bass-less and over crisp but a nice upgrade from the stock-buds for a very low price (450 = $15 and the 350 = $10) so they are my outdoor activity buds at home I use either the panas or the bigger senns
  14. a cheap alternative to that, but certainly ok as a starter pair are the Panasonics RP-JE50 I have linked in my signature... they are also canal phones and do provide much better sound than the stock-buds, but you can find them (in silver, black or blue) on ebay for $25
  15. you could always try to rip the music with Exact Audio Copy in advance (to wav then import in SS or mount as an image), as it is much better suited for ripping music without any errors... but then again, I dunno if EAC will work with those specs
  16. have fun...and when in vietnam: believe them when they say it's spicey
  17. if you want to upload to PC... forget about anything else than HiMD... cheapest models with mic in are the NH700/800 and the RH910... for more info check the minidisc equipment browser...remember, the D or E models do not have mic/line in and the RH710 and the NH600 have only got a line in (not useable with a mic unless you get an external preamp) the best to get are the RH10 or the NH900... but they do cost a bit more
  18. difficult one... changes a bit with my mood: when in a harder/more experimental mood: The Mars Volta or perhaps Tool when in a softer/darker mood: Explosions in the sky, Mogwai or Godspeed you Black Emperor!
  19. It works with my NH900 although (in Europe at least) it doesn't come bundled with the RM-MC40ELK... but perhaps in Japan it did, so it might fall under Ishi's remark
  20. welcome to MDCF, if you are only interested in playing music from your PC on a portable device, you could just as well get a decent MP3 (HDD or flash based) player as they are much easier to use mostly but if you want to go MD (well, some ppl like me just dig the removable media ) you should check out the HiMD format... gives much more space on the discs (check out the equipment browser) the NH600D can be found very cheaply (cheaper than the price of the one you linked) and is pretty good but remember, all models with a D or an E in the name are download/players only... if you'd like to record stuff from a microphone (the thing where MD really is unbeatable) you should have a look at the other models over-all, the RH10 or the NH900 are the best models to get in my honest opinion hope this helps mods, please move this to the find your minidisc subforums...
  21. well, if they are on top of your head and the mics are in the SP croakies, it means they are sitting on top of your head side by side... this will provide a very clear sound, but as there is very little difference in their position (just a couple of inches separated without anything in between them) they will pick up almost the same sound... so there will be very little stereo effect. By putting a physical separator (like your head) between them, one element will pick up a slightly different sound pattern than the other, ergo stereo sound... just search for the threads started by greenmachine, he has one concerning stereo separation why would PCM be different than HiSP? The format (and compression) shouldn't affect the rec levels at all, so no difference between PCM or HiSP what rec-levels are concerned there is no such thing as the universal perfect setting that works for all mics and venues... each mic as its own sensitivity, each venue its own loudness and acoustics, so it's quite useless to blindly copy someone's settings as they could very well be completely wrong for your occasion/setup The MD's come equipped with level indicators (two dynamic rows of stripes which indicate the levels in the right and left channels and two fixed dots which indicate the -12db and 0db levels) The trick is to set the manual levels as such that the highest peak in sound level comes close but not on/over the 0db dot and the average peaks are somewhere between the -12db and the 0db... this is quite difficult as you can't always predict the max loudness, so better be safe and leave some headroom... this said I used relatively low sensitivity mics and a battery box ->line in on some loud venues and my settings were between 20/30 and 25/30 almost every time... but if you have higher sensitivity mics (not necessarily high, but higher than mine, which are low sensitivity if you still follow what I'm saying here) you should read this as 18/30-23/30 I guess It's really a bit trial and error you know, till you get the hang of it (till you know your setup very well and learn to 'read' the venue's loudness from the first tones or even the soundcheck) and keeping an eye on the level indicators really helps BTW, which HiMD model do you use?
  22. sorry to say this bobt... but it seems ppl are very selective in what they read or not
  23. a couple of quick tips: - try to keep your head between the mics as a separator (by wearing the glasses and makins sure the mics as close to your ears as possible) this improves the stereo picture immensely - 'loudmusic' setting means you either used AGC or didn't know that that setting doesn't matter when using manual rec-levels... but the suggestion: always use manual rec-levels as the AGC will cause unbalanced volume and even swooshing sounds when confronted with sudden loudness (like a bass-drum etc)... so even though it's a little unpractical (until you get the hang of it) manual settings are really worth it but glad to see someone enjoyng the recording capabilities of (Hi)MD!
  24. welcome to MDCF, what would be different with the installation of 3.2 vs 3.1 I dunno... but why trying to install 3.1 when 3.2 is that much better? so instead of having trouble with the very limited 3.1 you should at least try to have some trouble installing the better 3.2 but a thing to try is the standalone (no internet required) SS3.2 installer you can find here at the downloads section, perhaps it works...perhaps it won't, in which case you should try to describe your PC landscape a bit further, as this actually is quite limited info to work from (codec packs, virus scanners running, firewalls, windows skins...)
  25. sure, no problem whatsoever... I fill discs continually using SB (from CD's and mounted images from wav/cuesheets) and a 1gb disc can hold up to 8 albums that way (in HiSP) and a standard 80min mostly 2
×
×
  • Create New...