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repair mz-n510

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rgrs

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Hello,

I own a MZ-N510. I got it for almost free as it seems to be defect.

When I got it, it showed "no disc", even when a disc was inserted.
When inserting a disc, it makes a clicking noise. I opened the MD player and it seems that the head is bumping into the side (rotating motor location)
It does not charge or charge properly.

What I tried:
1:Cleaned laser, no result
2:Initiated factory reset in recovery mode (21). This resulted in an error message. It now shows "error" in the display.
3:after that I thought it was really lost so I messed around with the laserunit (moving it) and some settings (31 I believe)
4: tried to get out of recovery mode, when it runs the finalizing, it shows 00 112 NG (NG=not good I guess :-))

However it now takes a disc, reads it or seems to do so, but when I press play or whatever button, it shows "error" again.

Is this unit still salvageable or should I trash it?

thnx!

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Yeah, you probably fixed it mechanically speaking by tweaking the mechanism. However doing a 911 means it's out of alignment. You have two choices:

1. lie to it and tell it that it's been aligned by fixing the status byte at 24, to FF ("Assy" on the LCD to be sure you have the right byte).

From service mode Vol+(up) -> "Manual", Right(FF)->" 0 10 Laser",Up->"0 20 ResNV",FF four times -> "0 24 Assy",

2. Do a real alignment (not that hard with pre-HiMD units).

Edited by sfbp
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Ok, will give it a try. I have been searching for any info on howto do manual alignment, but all I could find was that I need a voltage meter and a laser "something" device.

Any tips/directions on how to do alignment?

 

Edited by rgrs
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The self-calibration will do most of it. You just need a virgin recordable disk as well as one CD disk (prerecorded MD). The latter is the usual sticking point for people in your situation.

I may be able to help but you'd have to send it here for a look-see.

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Ok, so now it is "working" normal again. I can access the normal menus right now. However it does display "error" every now and then.

Could you guide me trough the calibration process? I am from holland so shipping it would probably expensive (I am assuming you are in the US).

I have a blank recordable, but it is used, so not virgin I guess :-)

I am awaiting some prerecorded disks.

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OK when you get a prerecorded disk and a completely blank MO (metal-oxide) disk in hand, we can proceed. It's not a lot more complex than:

- make sure the mechanism doesn't have any obvious faults

- get into service mode and follow the directions for "Overall Servo adjustment".

Shout when you are ready.

I think if you sent only the unit, no battery, remote etc it's not that expensive to mail. I'm in Canada.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK. Let's assume there's not too much wrong with it and that you don't need to manually mess with the laser.

However I would strongly advise fixing the power adjustment at this stage if you can, (manual mode but the chart on page 25 speeds things up a bit - you'll realise you don't need to do both). The one parameter you MUST do before any adjustment (and you should do this every time) is to set the temperature. It's in Celsius, Hex. So 19 degrees C is 13, get it? And 26 is 1A, for example. Fixing the power will solve a lot of problems with the servo system and battery charging later on.

You'll need lots of patience, a voltmeter that's not too far out of whack and you can use the mains adapter on this unit (some you are supposed to use a regulated Power Supply instead of the mains adapter). It's good to have an LCD remote plugged in because sometimes the LCD controls work when the ones on the set do not, and vice versa. TAKE THE BATTERY OUT!

Notice the caveats about stuff that doesn't need to be done if microprocessor version is 1.2 (I think this is the number you see when you first get into service mode, but am not 100% sure on this point).

Page 27 shows the flow of the servo adjustment. After clearing byte 24 (the 911 reset) you do the CD first. If it passes the byte at 24 should change to 01 I think and you should get no "NG" indications on the display. After that you pretty much have the idea and will do the MO adjustment. If it passes, well and good. If not then you have to try and figure out what happened to the mechanism that might trigger the failure. It all works better if there's good power supply levels in the right places in the unit. Watch it and be ready to unplug everything if it goes unreasonably long at any phase. After all there may be a mechanical problem. You don't need to do this phase with the unit apart, but if and when things go wrong then it may be preferable. That raises other issues such as the door write-lock and keeping it turned on whilst you work (microswitches).

Now if someone could help me figure out what just went wrong with the stocker/ejector mechanism on my MXD-D5C. The CD disks won't eject (in fact the empty trays won't even open). It made funny noises for a while and if you bumped it gently they would stop. Now it just whirs. The belts are all fine, but I think there's a sticky cog somewhere below and now it's finally disengaged.

Good luck!

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TURN OFF HOLD! On reflection and experiment I don't think that's the problem.

Here's the keypresses I used direct from the initial test mode, along with what you see on the LCD display (the remote shows the same, I just went back and checked) :

Flashing

--> (FF) gives "000 Manual"

--> (FF) gives "010 Laser" (note that + at this point will take you to "020 ResNV" so it must have worked in the past for u

--> (FF) gives "011 xxxS16" (xxx meaning rotating display of numbers)

--> (FF) gives "012 xxxS1A"

--> (FF) gives "013 xxxS8B"

--> (FF) gives "014 xxxSA5"

--> (FF) gives "015 xxxS19" and we are there.

On my unit (actually I don't have a 510 and my firmware is 1.6 rather than 1.2) the "19" can now be tweaked with the +/- buttons. Whether or not hold is turned on. Sorry about that.

If you really have trouble with keys try page 17 which basically requires to press all the buttons in any order. Might need a remote to pass this test, I don't remember.

When things are really badly messed up then the solder bridge method of entering test mode is the only way. Of course this requires the unit to be apart at least for long enough to service (pain).

Edited by sfbp
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Ha I just wrote a complete repsonse to you, my PC says no internet, story gone...

Anyway, I will read your new approach and see if it works, when I follow the steps in the service manual, they don't.

I followed the new steps. Now I can change 015 to 1A (yes it is warm here :-) Pressing pause should save it, but it doesn't. When I go back to 015, it displays S19 again

Edited by rgrs
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Yes I did see the spinning disc. Will continue with the next steps.

I am now at the voltages. I measure 2.34V between vc01 and gnd. That is to low according to the manual. Nope, read it wrong, it is ok

But the same problem occurs here too. I cannot adjust the voltage settings using + or - keys.

I see 741 VC1 L, but from here I cannot adjust values. Ok got this too, was not in manual mode. Am now.

I can change the settings and save them. But the voltage between VC01 and gnd does not change. I checked it again, it is 2,49V and should be 2,30V

 

Ok I got it. I now know how it works and I am changing the voltages.

 

Still receiving 000 312 NG and it still makes a ticking noise (laserunit bumping into the side). Got a little further, now it says 00324 NG

Edited by rgrs
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OK so you are in the CD overall servo test. If not then you should be to get this error.

You can look up what 00324 means (p.28). TE adjustment. Time to see what's mechanically wrong. It's probably something quite basic to fail CD tests.

The ticking noise isn't necessarily fatal. When the head recalibrates (seek until it hits the stop) this is what you will hear, I think.

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TE is Tracking Error. So I'd look for anything which prevents the motion of the head.

If you can repeat the performance with the machine apart (be sure when you put it together again that the hold switch fits with the external cover for that hold switch) you may be able to see what the test was trying to do when the failure happens. If it's the very first thing that looks like a read operation, check the resistance of the optical pickup (OP in the jargon) to make sure it's not open-circuit. Knowing what operations if any it did correctly before you did the NVreset (911) may be helpful here. Occam's Razor, dontcha know...... one single fault can lead to many symptoms.

This is the point at which you become a Real Minidisc Repairman. Look for anything restricting the operation of the lead screw that moves the head laterally. Look for bent or worn parts. Do not put oil on anything, rather tiny amounts of silicone grease. This, dried, may be what's restricting movement.

I'm getting beyond my experience and competence here. Jim would know what is the most likely thing as a function of the model number, but he's been out of action vis-a-vis the discussion board. There's a guy in France, Jonathanpotato who may be able to suggest if he reads this and you would describe what you find.

Don't worry about cleaning the head(s), it's almost never that.

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OK this is weird... 

Today I wanted to do 1 final check. Guess what... It read the CD!!!! It shortly showed me the title of the disc... haha, this is fun/weird. It didn't do that before.

After it reads the cd, it shows error. But I can definably see track info

I can see CD lenght 53:28. I can also hear it read the disc. When selecting a track it just jumps to the "end".

And sometimes "no disc"

 

 

Edited by rgrs
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  • 1 year later...

Ok, so I know it's been a while. But I would like to thank you for your help! I think I found the problem. It is a microswitch that detects the presence of a disc. It came a part when I "touched" it. I am looking for a replacment at the moment.

I also have a N710 now that has the same problem, but this one seems to work with me. I started with "no disc" and I am currently running an auto adjust and it's taking a loooong time. Which is good I good I guess.

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