Jump to content

Sony MDS JB980 stuck on standby mode

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

I have Sony MDS JB980 that is stuck on standby mode.
 
The fault is with the loading mechanism, every few seconds the motor & front pully turn a tiny bit then turn quickly back. I am unable to load a disc. If I switch the power off I can manually push the disc in, when I switch the power on the mechanism ejects the disc.
 
The error code history is 10,50,10,50,10,50,10,50,10,51    10 is loading error
 
The first problem I had was that the mechanism did not eject a disc. I replaced the front pulley belt, the original belt was broken.
 
Does anyone know how I can resolve this?
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

I have successfully fixed the 980 player. With the drive taken out of the player I removed the top part of the drive (that hinges at the front) and re-connected to the player, I switched on power and the player stayed on. The drive was able to re-align itself.

I removed the drive, put the top back on and re-connected. The player is now fully functionally.

Thanks sfbp for the advice.

I have a separate question, is this sony mds JB980 the best player that was made or is there an even better player, I could try to get this as a back up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a great deck. I have one FWIW.

I think perhaps one of the best of all is the JB940. Try to get the Japanese one if you think you want to use the PS/2 control via PC-Link. However the playback on the 980 is Type-S, one of the few that is.

Well done, anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 8/23/2019 at 8:17 PM, sfbp said:

This is a great deck. I have one FWIW.

I think perhaps one of the best of all is the JB940. Try to get the Japanese one if you think you want to use the PS/2 control via PC-Link. However the playback on the 980 is Type-S, one of the few that is.

Well done, anyway.

Hello sfbp

I am curious about your comment,

Is there another way to use the PS/2 port beside connecting a Keyboard?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not on most of the decks. Exception: MDS-PC3, MDS-JE770, MDX-D40

However nearly ALL the decks which have a keyboard and date from the MDLP era can be hooked up to the PC-Link (PCLK-MN10 or MN20) if the deck came from Japan and was intended for the domestic market there. Sophisticated tastes, have the Japanese audio consumer!

You can buy stuff on one of the Japanese auction sites (Yahoo! is by far the biggest) using a service (with English web interface).

This thread may be helpful

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I have got the exact same problem on mine, exsept that I can't find what is the problem.

It started whit me changing the ruberbelt, but after puting everything back together it is dead.

I have mesured all the voltages and everything seems to be fine, all the switches are ok and in corect position, but the display is black and the standby led is on.

I can put it in servicemode and the display works like it is suposed to do and I can go thru all the diferent tests..  I have mesured all the flat cables and they are ok.

Does anybody have any clue to what is going on?

Petter Halonen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it still in service mode? If so, can you move the sled with << and >>? You'll need it apart to see this.

Can you insert and eject a disk?

Does it respond to USB?

Does it play back?

I'm thinking maybe there is something to force reinitialization (evidently what happened to OP when his was magically fixed). Surely exiting Test mode by unplugging or perhaps pressing REPT will do the trick?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, sfbp said:

Is it still in service mode? If so, can you move the sled with << and >>? You'll need it apart to see this.

Can you insert and eject a disk?

Does it respond to USB?

Does it play back?

I'm thinking maybe there is something to force reinitialization (evidently what happened to OP when his was magically fixed). Surely exiting Test mode by unplugging or perhaps pressing REPT will do the trick?

I can get it in to servicemode by pushing ams and stop simuntanuasly while plugging in the main lead.

The mecanic seems to be dead, does not respond to << or >> neighter can I insert or eject a disk, ecsept once it did actualy insert the disk. It does not spinn up the disk.

No respons on USB and no play back.  

What bother me is that it is not in proper standby. the viltages are there and the rele has switch on, but the display is black, the standby led is litt and the mecanic is dead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go back and reseat the two ribbon cables. I’ve had that when they weren’t inserted fully at both ends. Hard to do but make sure they are not twisted if it’s a machine that has long ribbon cables. Also ensure the flying chassis lead is connected if it has one.

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, kgallen said:

Go back and reseat the two ribbon cables. I’ve had that when they weren’t inserted fully at both ends. Hard to do but make sure they are not twisted if it’s a machine that has long ribbon cables. Also ensure the flying chassis lead is connected if it has one.

Kevin

I took both of them out and reseted them, then I mesured that there were contact. Still the player is dead.  

MDS-JB980cn1.jpg

MDS-JB980cn2.jpg

MDS-JB980top.jpg

MDS-JB980front.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time to do what the OP did. Unscrew the drive and remove it from the chassis. ( 4 screws and of course the same cables)

Look very carefully at the mechanism. I think you will find it's stuck. Kevin, shouldn't he be able to move the insertion mechanism by hand? Is it ridiculous to take the rubber belt off again and see if the drive comes ready? (you'd have to remove the rubber band and THEN connect the power - no need to screw it back in, just connect up).

BTW, I can't remember what should happen; but when you have the drive completely removed and disconnected, see what happens if you turn on the power. Does the display light up at all?

(sorry, 3rd edit here) Can you, with the drive held in your hand and not connected to the chassis at all, remove the disk that's in there? If not, try to figure out WHY.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, sfbp said:

Kevin, shouldn't he be able to move the insertion mechanism by hand?

With the deck unplugged, you should be able to rotate that white cog at the rear right of the drive and slowly but surely eject the disc.

14 minutes ago, sfbp said:

BTW, I can't remember what should happen; but when you have the drive completely removed and disconnected, see what happens if you turn on the power. Does the display light up at all?

Possibly a bit machine depended. Can't remember exactly on my MDS-E10 if the display lights, but the audio bargraph doesn't light the bottom pips which it only does when the drive initialises correctly (which of course it can't do if it's not connected!).

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, kgallen said:

With the deck unplugged, you should be able to rotate that white cog at the rear right of the drive and slowly but surely eject the disc.

Possibly a bit machine depended. Can't remember exactly on my MDS-E10 if the display lights, but the audio bargraph doesn't light the bottom pips which it only does when the drive initialises correctly (which of course it can't do if it's not connected!).

 

Did what you told me, but no luck. still dead. The mecanic is not jamed in any way. I can easely turn the engine by hand and eject the disk..

MDS-JB980mecbelton.jpg

MDS-JB980mecbeltoff.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you were adding the new belt (rubber band) did you at any time have to take off that spring on the left? Were there any other springs you had to replace as a result of the work, ie they popped off or simply fell out, or you had to remove them? If so, is there an issue about what position the mechanism was in when the spring was replaced?

(edit) one more question: is the disk platen (is that the right word) that contacts the MD in the middle able to turn? I can't tell from the aerial view if everything is vertically separated and free....

(and another question) is there any issue with the connectors to the front panel (ribbon cable)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not convinced the wide long ribbon cable is the right way around in the green connector on the main motherboard - from the second photo on your post a few back. Looks to me like the blue plastic stiffener is on the side where the spring contacts are. All ribbon cables, make sure the exposed contacts on the cable are on the side the spring contacts are exposed in the female connector on the PCB.

I can see on the short cable that it is the correct way round on the main PCB. Check the others are similarly oriented in the socket. It's a bit hard to be sure from the photos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually at this point I really need to point out you need to be REALLY CAREFUL OF THE LASER OUTPUT.

You have so much of the top of the drive off, there may be an interlock to stop the laser coming on. But there might not be and if you fire this thing up and look at the laser you WILL BE BLINDED. You cannot see the laser light, it is invisible, even whilst you have your sight.

EXTREME CAUTION!!!

No more comments from me until I know you've seen this warning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As *I am an proffesionel radio/TV repairman I know the danger of lasers. The thing is I have repaired many MD-players and CD-players before, but never seen this fault.

The sleede does move frealy .

The long riboncable is the rigt way as you can see from added pictures.

Adding more pictures of the mecanic for you to see. 

and also mp4 file of how it was before it died.

MDS-JB980BDboard.jpg

MDS-JB980mecdisambledtop.jpg

MDS-JB980mecside4.jpg

MDS-JB980mecside3.jpg

MDS-JB980mecside2.jpg

MDS-JB980mecside1.jpg

MDS-JB980mecunder.jpg

MDS-JB980cnclose2.jpg

MDS-JB980cnclose1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK great Petter, thanks.

Myself I would be tempted to rewind here. I'm not sure we need to take this machine apart so much given what we should have performed initially. We shouldn't be looking for a complex fault.

  1. We know we had a perfectly working machine prior to the belt change. We did a simple repair action to replace the belt with one of a similar size and thickness. The new belt is not fouling the adjacent rack gear.
  2. We reassemble the drive with the spring to the left and the retainer slide engaged at the rear. Both pivot pins at the front are engaged correctly.
  3. If disconnected, we reconnect the pair of ribbon cables to the drive end, ensuring the ribbon contacts mate with the socket contacts and they are fully inserted 'square'.
  4. We mount the drive to the chassis, ensuring the 4 bushes are the correct way round to set the drive height correct for the loading slot. We have 4 shouldered machine screws to mount the drive.
  5. We ensure any flying earth leads connected to the drive are connected to the chassis.
  6. We ensure the ribbon cables at the main PCB end are inserted fully and square.
  7. We reconnect mains power and press standby.
  8. The machine possibly flashes "Initialise" and the drive settles to an idle position.
  9. We have a repaired machine.

So, which step went wrong for us?

Were other actions performed that changed the situation and can help us repair this "remotely"?

The pictures are a great help, but I don't at this point see anything amiss with what I see.

I don't have this machine myself but I have several (many!) with this (MDM7-series) drive, that I've replaced the belt on (440, 480, E10, E12). My machines all have comparable internal layouts to this one.

(Edit to correct Petter's name, sorry!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All right. Another rewind. Was the belt you replaced actually broken, or were you simply seeing the **symptoms** that would lead to you wishing to replace the belt? Could it be that those symptoms actually arose from another cause (reason)? I finally made myself fresh coffee (it's only morning here).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, sfbp said:

All right. Another rewind. Was the belt you replaced actually broken, or were you simply seeing the **symptoms** that would lead to you wishing to replace the belt? Could it be that those symptoms actually arose from another cause (reason)? I finally made myself fresh coffee (it's only morning here).

The belt was not broken the rubber was old and did not grip corectly. I happen to have a video of the fault whitch I will atatch.( The disk finaly came out after I stoped filming.) I bought a new belt from Germany spesific for MDS-JB980.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the C13s are benign. The belt is too sloppy to eject or mount the disc properly. On a failed insert I've never seen the laser sled actually try to read the disc, I think the electrical and mechanical interlock mechanisms are too mature by this version of the MDM. So I don't believe any mechanical damage or stress will have occurred. I don't hear any mechanical torture going on in that video and I've had much worse (the "machine gun") with some of my machines and the drives have suffered no lasting damage.

The machine is pulling the disc back in because it has passed the threshold where the machine thinks the disc is out, then the disc sitting there creates a new insert detect so it pulls it back in. I had the same with pretty much all of those machines (440, 480, E10) I bought with "faulty loading" where it just needed a new belt.

I still feel at this point we're looking for a simple explanation - even if that is eluding us for now! Do no damage at this point looking for anything complex.

On which note, is that drive properly back together yet even if it's not mounted in the machine?

ETA - I have had the same as the video where you can't trigger an eject every time. Actually that was common on my 530 which ended up being oxidised ribbon cables in the end (remember those days Stephen, that's how you hooked me into this Forum! :-D )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue with an MDS-JB980 when I replaced the load belt recently:

Are you hearing the relay click twice when you reconnect the power? I'm afraid I don't know what the issue was with mine but removing/reinstalling the drive mechanism and ribbon cables fixed it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Petter Halonen said:

I have trippel checked the drive. everything looks like it is suposed to. Also checked the riboncables.

This machine beats me, in my head everything seams to be ok and it shuld be behaving normaly.

Is there any protection modes were the CPU shuts down if something is wrong?

 

Your comment reminds me of the bad old days of microcomputers when 200MB was considered a large hard drive and which we shared over the network in our office. Following advice from the manufacturer (seriously!), whenever the drive wouldn't start up, the solution was to drop it onto a (carpeted) floor from loading dock height (just kidding, more like 25cm). This loosened the automatic brakes that stopped it from spinning up.

I am not for a single instant suggesting violence to such a lovely machine as the JB980, but maybe the **THREAT** of a short sharp shock might bring it back into line?!?!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're in "Standby", will it take a disc in? (Probably not, but I'm just wondering how the mechanics of the drive are "sitting" at the moment.).

If you're in service mode, can you go to the Check item that reads the Iop value? This requires the main PCB CPU to access the EEPROM on the drive.

From recent comments it seems the drive is "dead" (as in unresponsive rather than broken). We need to start narrowing down if it's getting any power (+5V and +3.3V rails) or whether the main PCB CPU is just not seeing the drive at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The voltages you measured, where did you probe those? With the drive out and upside down I can see this is possible with care, probing on the underside of the drive PCB (I see you have schematics on your desk). Where are you probing the 0V when taking these measurements - on the drive too?

But I take the drive is getting the required supply rails and they are in spec.

For confirmation, if you disconnect the drive ribbons, does the Iop get reported in SM? (Trying to demonstrate the CPU is accessing the drive rather than pulling cached figures from RAM).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, kgallen said:

The voltages you measured, where did you probe those? With the drive out and upside down I can see this is possible with care, probing on the underside of the drive PCB (I see you have schematics on your desk). Where are you probing the 0V when taking these measurements - on the drive too?

But I take the drive is getting the required supply rails and they are in spec.

For confirmation, if you disconnect the drive ribbons, does the Iop get reported in SM? (Trying to demonstrate the CPU is accessing the drive rather than pulling cached figures from RAM).

I mesured them on pin3 of ic926(2.6V) and ic933(3.3V) 5V I mesured on pin1. GND on chassis.

I disconected the ribbons but the display was black, so I conected the long ribon and tryed again, then I got the message you can se on the picture.

MDS-JB980_testmode_whitout_powerribon.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...