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Is it normal behavior for the MZ-RH1 to charge the LIP-4WM battery for only 30 minutes instead of 60 minutes via wall adapter method? Or is my battery dying out (LIP-4WM slowly losing its charging capability?) I always thought the standard time for charging via wall adapter was 60 minutes.

Hi Minidisc community! Special shoutout to sfbp(I think that's the correct username) & Avrin! Anyways, I have a brand new RM-MC38EL but after plugging it into my RH1 unit and the remote will only let me listen to music in only one earbud. It's frustrating because if I swiggle the endpiece connector to the left, it'll only spit out sound in only one earbud but the unit works great when I swiggle it to the right. It's been happening for awhile now. I bought this unit from pauseplaystop. I contacted them and did get reimbursed but I really want to fix this unit. It seems like a waste and I always try to repair things on my own. Don't really know why but I hate admitting defeat until I know exactly how big of a problem I have on my hands. That aside, anybody care to lend me some advice without telling me to return it or buy a new one? Thanks beforehand for reading this issue & hope to hear your comments soon!

Thanks for the kind gesture, Soundbox. Actually, it would be awesome if you could do that but considering I live in the U.S., I don't find that feasible. However, if it's not too much of an inconvenience...do you think you could give me directions on making my own power supply that could kick-start batteries like the LIP-4WM? If it's too complicated, I don't want you to explain and waste your time. But if it's easy to accomplish, I'm all for it:). I read elsewhere on this forum regarding the three different design logos used for the Sony LIP-4WM (telephone number, "lithium ion" label, and the recycling picture with lithium ion logo). Are they truly all legitimate types of batteries?

All right. I tried to use the method prescribed earlier here and works to no avail. KInd of disappointed about it too. Do you guys possibly have any other ideas where the issue might be? Sorry it took so long for me to reply back. Did not have chance to get around to fiddling with my RH1. So, is there another way that we could possibly re-energize these batteries without the use of another portable MD-player or hot-wiring? (unless I used the wrong types of wires which could be the culprit). Thanks.

Nope, I turned off quick mode a long time ago since I purchased my RH1 unit. I'm trying out the jumpstart method sometime this week so I'll let you know about the results.

What happens when you simply put the battery in and turn on the RH1? (I'm assuming no action)Edit:Actually, the RH1 does start up, and the battery icon is flashing on and off. What happens when you put the battery in and connect up USB (not the charger)? Ordinary USB connection will usually charge the battery for you, too. When the RH1 unit is plugged in via USB, the battery icon does not show up and I'm assuming it's using power from the USB itself and not the battery. If the answer to both of these questions is NADA, then I think Ian has given you good advice. It's just possible that his tip works for the wrong reason, however, you might be DIScharging an OVERcharged battery. Doesn't matter, still follow his suggestion, I think. I reported recently my daughter's cell phone battery mysteriously revived when she spilled liquid on it. I think that was the same sort of thing. I think it has to do with the charging circuits using voltage as a means for deciding when to stop and/or start charging. If the battery barely changes state (eg because you always run some particular device, be it MD or cell, off the charger) these discriminant (is that the right word?) voltages may get a bit out of whack as the battery gets older.

Hi Minidisc Forum. Recently, I purchased a lithium-ion battery from Pause Play Stop. However, when I put the new battery into my RH1 unit, it refuses to charge. Now, I'm pretty sure that it's not a problem on the RH1 side because I'm able to successfully charge two other lithium-ion batteries without any issues. Is it possible that I was sold a defunct battery? Or does anyone here on this forum know how to re-energize these batteries? I wish I owned an NH1 or other minidisc portable that could more properly calibrate these types of batteries and fairly frustrated that the RH1 is so darn sensitive. Any tips, ideas, or whatnot would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, as always.

Hi Minidisc Forum! It would be greatly appreciated if anybody could quite possibly locate legitimate e-commerce or brick-and-mortar stores that has the silver RH-1 for sale. I would rather buy it brand-new even if it is costly rather than from a second-hand source. I tried researching this model everywhere and couldn't find anything. A bonus would be in locating either a brand new or gently used MZ-NH1 around anywhere...Thanks!

It does seem to discharge, and I did take the precaution of letting the battery drain once per month and re-charging it via the wall adapter. However, today I tried charging it via USB and the battery indicator is gone but after I disconnect and see if it's charging or not, it went up a bar. I guess it's not totally not working but still there's something sketchy...I tried re-charging it via the wall adapter and it won't recharge at all now. Again, the spare new battery I got has no problems and is working as is...Is the LIP-4WM battery (original) considered "dead" or is there some other method I should try?

Hi Minidisc Forum. I'm a little worried about my MZ-RH1 because suddenly the battery won't charge while in the USB cord (pc connection) or from the wall adapter anymore. Luckily, I had a spare, new battery and tried that...it worked perfectly. However, due to the inconsistency of the battery charging, is it because of the battery or is there a deeper issue with my RH1? FYI: I used the same original battery that came with my RH1 3-4 years ago. I thought Lithium-ion batteries had a life of about 5-10 years. If anybody could provide insight, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey there minidisc buddy. Sorry for the late reply. Don't know when you're going to be reading this but yes, I have solved the problem after tightening the screws on the machine. However, be forewarned: be very gentle with the unit and don't force the screwdriver into the screw if the screw won't budge afterwards. Credit should go to sfbp for this tip. Also, this is not a typical result, or a by-gone-be-all method for solving this issue. I happened to be lucky. To minidisc community: Again, my minidisc portable is functioning amazingly well after using all tips from avrin, sfbp and others. Just wanted to let you guys know that you're the best community and thanks for all the information and opinions. Keep it up!

Hey, thanks a lot for your help. I'm sorry to pester you but I have one more set of reference numbers if you don't mind. The numbers in the service mode are 0210-0216. I promise, this is THE last time that I gather reference numbers. Thanks again and hope to hear from you soon!

HI! Sorry, I mis-wrote the following menu item: instead of 2010-2016, what I really meant was what you wrote - 2110-2116. Thanks for your other input by the way.

Hi Minidisc Forum. If you enter the RH1 service mode, click Vol (-) once, you will enter the overall adjustment servo mode I believe. On my RH1, the last two digits read "EF" and was wondering what this meant. Also, if anyone could denote and write a fatory-fresh numbers residing in 2010-2016 (address in service mode) and 9111-9113, it would also be greatly appreciated. I just want to check the numbers for reference only. Thanks again Minidisc forum.

Hi Minidisc Forum. If you enter the RH1 service mode, click Vol (-) once, you will enter the overall adjustment servo mode I believe. On my RH1, the last two digits read "EF" and was wondering what this meant. Also, if anyone could denote and write a fatory-fresh numbers residing in 2010-2016 (address in service mode) and 9111-9113, it would also be greatly appreciated. I just want to check the numbers for reference only. Thanks again Minidisc forum.

Oh okay...sorry, I thought you were referring to another area with the "flange". Anyhow, since we're now on the same page, yeah, that is exactly what I was referring to too. A misunderstanding on my part. Thanks for the clearup too.

To Abby Normal: Hehe, let me try explaining it a little more clearer. If you look at the back of the MZ-RH1 and where the two screws are located...look in between the crevice of the two lid compartment area (there's an inner area split off from the two outer clamshell lids). The inner area is where the miniscule scratches are. And then in my previous post are the side effects or results from the scratches. I hope this answers your question.

Okay, I feel somewhat like an idiot at this moment - let me explain haha. We can forget about this topic because I think the scratches came from the manufacturer...I have two distinct nanometer-ish lines (maybe like half a centimeter) across the left and right sides in between the two lid compartment area in the back of the minidisc (MZ-RH1). Another wierd aspect is that these two lines can be seen only at a particular angle in low light. In broad streaks of daylight or just a strong source of light, it's infinitismally difficult to notice. I think I'm just going to leave it alone - looks like I have a unique "watermark" so to speak. To an average John Doe, they would hardly notice the scratches. Thanks a lot for your help anyway for those who contributed opinions and whatnot. I'm amazed that a lot of people on this board own a lot of portable/standard minidisc decks/units. The MZ-RH1 is my only minidisc access and that is why I get overtly concerned about any problems that may exist on mine. Malaysia is a good manufacturer, I would assume? Does anybody want to weigh in on quality control?

This is the same off-shoot message from a previous post but thought it better to be a separate topic altogether. Also, to everyone: Do you know of any way or manner of fixing or masking a small scratch mark on the body portion of the MZ-RH1? I didn't realize this, but on the back of the MZ-RH1, right in between the two lid compartment area, there is a small scratch mark. I understand that I might have gotten this by accidently using the small phillips screwdriver for tightening purposes. Normally, I wouldn't be so anal about something as small as this sort of problem but it just bothers me because it still looks and works like a semi-new unit and would like to keep it in excellent condition if possible. If anybody could relay any solutions to this particular problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you once again.

Hi Avrin. Thanks for your explanation of the functions. So then, what could possibly be the reason for the clicking noises that I experienced on my MZ-Rh1 prior? Just for background info -- I used to get a "read error" on my MZ-RH1 simply by pressing play button. In the service manual, I located the error code from the service mode and it said - focus error (no change) and illegal cluster specified during error or something of that nature. It hasn't happened since then, but just for my own edification. Also, to everyone: Do you know of any way or manner of fixing or masking a small scratch mark on the body portion of the MZ-RH1? I didn't realize this, but on the back of the MZ-RH1, right in between the two lid compartment area, there is a small scratch mark. I understand that I might have gotten this by accidently using the small phillips screwdriver for tightening purposes. Normally, I wouldn't be so anal about something as small as this sort of problem but it just bothers me because it still looks and works like a semi-new unit and would like to keep it in excellent condition if possible. If anybody could relay any solutions to this particular problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you once again.

To Avrin: Hi, I relayed the topic about vertical alignment motor to Sfbp several times and just wanted to get your opinion of the matter too. Could the loose clamshell lid affect the vertical alignment motor in any way?

Hi Sfbp. I followed your solution to the T and it seems to have worked. Now, I find this rather odd: even though the screws are mounted on the bottom half of the RH1 back-side, do those same screws somehow control the tightening of the top lid as well? At first, I thought I was doing this for no reason because it didn't look like it would work in theory but it works out in practical terms. And I know we about killed the subject on vertical positioning motor and alignments but would the loose top lid have anything to do with the vertical positioning error that I had before? Or is it completely unrelated? Thanks.

Thanks for the quick solution Sfbp. I'll try that out later today...sooo aggravating that Sony's flagship model proved to be such a frustration on consumers. It's almost like I'm caring for a delicate human being haha. Anyhow, thanks again and I'll be back with the results. Oh, and one thing I need to ask you. When you describe directions in your previous response, do you mean the OLED display in the back and the two screws in the front or vice versa? I just wanted to know if it was the same area for me too.

I was wondering if all MZ-RH1 models had shoddy construction in relation to the top lids. For mine, I noticed that when you put the unit on a flat surface and press down on the right or left corners of the lid slightly on the back, it gives a slight popping noise (like the lid bouncing back up). Is this considered normal or is my own MZ-RH1 starting to show its age and do I need to take it apart to screw tighter any internal components? Thanks again Minidisc community.