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Faulty Denon DMD-1000 minidisc mechanism
Davros replied to spitfire71's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Thought I'd resurrect this thread as it is the only thing that shows up on Google for Denon Minidisc "Mech Err 1" - I have the same drive in my Denon DMD-F100. After several rebuilds I finally found the problem with mine was that the clutch gear was seized solid. Even though the limit switches on the load/eject mechanism were working fine, it seems like the player still relies on a certain amount of clutch slip at the ends of its travel. With no slip the torque from the worm gears tries to push the drive apart and jams it solid. I dismantled the clutch to free up the plates and now it is loading and ejecting perfectly. -
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Hi and welcome to the SI forum! The basic 'No Disc' problem may be the sensor in the MD unit that tells it when a disc has been inserted after the lid is closed. It is a small black pin on the left-hand side of the MD base when the lid is open: This pin engages with one of the holes on the underside of the minidisc itself, and the pin gets pushed down when the minidisc is inserted and the lid closed: In older machines, this pin can become less sensitive and requires to be pushed down further. The malfunction can be associated with particular discs though. Do you have another to try? Otherwise you can test by putting a piece of sellotape over the pin to stick it down, then put the minidisc in and try closing the lid. If it reads the disc then you can assume it is the hole depth not being enough. I have overcome this problem by putting a tiny piece of paper into the hole of the minidisc itself, and pressing it down hard to flatten it within the hole using a small screwdriver. The effect is to raise the base of the hole and make it push that pin down a bit further when the lid is closed. Sadly, on some units the pin gets snapped off due to rough treatment and requires replacing. BTW, the 'white gunk' you saw on the spiral is lithium grease which is supposed to be there to lubricate the worm drive mechanism. If you cleaned off the excess then that's probably fine as there should be enough remaining in the thread to work.
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Josiah Garcia started following MZ E40 NoDISC error
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hey im new to this forum so i dont really know how it works. anyway, i recently bought an mz e40 off of offer up. it was working perfectly. i went to walmart and yknow just did my day to day stuff. later that evening i came back home and put my disc in to listen to music but it said no disc. i figured it was just a dirty lens so i cleaned it with alcohol and popped in my disc again. it still didn't work. i opened it up and saw there was like some white gunk on the little spiral that moves the lens. i cleaned that off and put it back together the way it was. put the disc in still no disc. i have no clue what it is. i need help. please.
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That read value is so you can store the label value (there is an ‘Iop Write’ menu item) - it’s not part of the calibration that controls the current the machine drives. But ideally you’d update it if you replace the laser. The machine probably also has an ‘Iop Compare’ in the Check menu. This can be used to track drift and laser aging based on this stored Iop value. It will give you a percentage deviation and an OK or NG (no good) result. The text in the Service Manuals does take some getting used to plus working with a machine whilst reading to get the hang of what it’s trying to say. Understanding the auto calibration steps in the SM for portable devices is an art in itself! 😆 There can be up to 4 laser power settings to check - although I think you’re right, you set calibration for two (probably 0.9mW read and 7.0mW write). Your machine works. Take the credit, stop worrying, and enjoy it!
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Unfortunately, it is like this: iop old laser: 5.13ma iop new laser: 5:XXmA XX=missing numbers I have now read the service manual again but found some unclear information: you can call up 2 iop values in the service menu: you can save a new iop in the device and you can read out the labeled one from the pick-up. Would that mean that the sticker is not necessarily important because you can read the iop of the new laser or is it just that an iop value that was saved hard at the factory-process by Sony ?
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Forgive me, typing on phone. My interpretation of your numbers from the labels: Old laser Iop=51.3mA New laser Iop=60.5mA Iop is optical pick-up drive current. It indicates how much current the drive circuit has to push through the laser to get a defined light output. From those numbers I would conclude your machine is under-driving the new laser. This is good for laser life but you might find play or more-so record operations are not reliable. But… if your machine is working just fine, then just stay as you are and enjoy it!!!! To calibrate you need at least a laser power meter and ideally a small connector jig that plugs into the MDM to measure the Iop current as it’s adjusted. Within the Service Menu there is a process to go through to configure the drive current for a range of power output states of the laser. This isn’t automatic as you need the laser power meter to measure the actual laser output at 780nm wavelength. I’m very pleased to hear you took anti static precautions. The lasers are very easily damaged especially once the solder bridge has been removed. So well done! Note: 260e lasers have to be driven harder than the older 260b. But since you did a swap from 260e to 260e that is not an issue here. See: https://www.minidisc.wiki/_media/resources/kms260e_lpm_spec.pdf
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Thank you very much for this valuable information. I really enjoy learning. Unfortunately I have no way of calibrating it and finding someone in Germany is extremely difficult. What a shame I thought it would be plug'n play if type b or e was swapped for the same. can you tell me what the abbreviation lob stands for? On the back there were 2 lines on the old 260e laser: 04411 and C0513. I assume the 513 is the lob. Unfortunately there was a sticker on the new laser so that only this information was visible on the new 260e laser: 06311 and 605** in the end that means to me that there is at most a 60 to 40 chance of having a laser change without a new calibration (for long-term satisfaction). Without the possibility of calibration, I would need tons of used MDM-7 and tons of new 260b and 260e lasers from different manufacturers or suppliers with the chance of different lob values. Somebody will fit... or is there an auto-calibration in the MDS-JE service menu? My only tools so far have been antistatic gloves, laser safety glasses (in addition to working without electricity), some videos and service manuals.
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Was the Iop figure for the new 260E similar to the old one? This is 3 digits on the label for example ‘546’. It will range from about 520 to 600. If there is significant difference (say a difference of 2 or more on the middle digit) then you really need to calibrate the machine to the laser. If the number on the new laser is lower than the old then you will be over-driving the new laser which will shorten its life especially in record. If the new number is higher you might have play, or more likely record, reliability issues. Good luck and well done regardless!
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I was recently able to purchase a new laser duo 260B and 260E and yesterday I set out to replace the laser on my faulty MDM-7A. After disassembly you could see a 260E sticker on the underside. I was now able to replace the weak one with a new one and after installing it in JE770 everything worked fine. Just plug and play. I am so happy because there are now several ways for me to save a defective mds machine. Thank you for your expertise.
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The only trick is adding optical out on those decks which don't have it, at least for the MD section (eg MXD-D5C, MDS-JE480). They must all have the same style of firmware, because the "- DA" shows even on those decks that do NOT have optical out. Sadly the Onkyo MD-105FX (one of only a couple of Hi-MD decks in existence) doesn't do it. But that doesn't matter because a HiMD is already completely in the digital domain, and can be played back "directly" by a computer (ie it makes little difference whether the Hi-MD .OMA files are on the PC or on a minidisk, all the reproduction takes place in the computer's sound card, which DOES matter). But it can be done. Easily. Couple of wires and the right TOSlink LED transmitter.
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I've got a BC-9HP, which came with my MZ-E30. It's a UK model (not sure where you're located). It says on it "charge only NH-9WM and NC-6WM" but seems to work okay with the 1450mAh gumsticks available today. The Sony website lists a number of alternative chargers for the MZ-E30 based on where you purchased it: BC-9HU, BC-9HP, BC-7HT & BC-9HG. I've got another Sony one knocking about somewhere, which came with an earlier cassette Walkman, that looks physically the same. Not sure if would be compatible as I think the gumsticks that came with the cassette Walkman were NiCads. Seem to recall you can charge NiCads in an NiMH charger but not the other way around? Could be completely wrong on that though. I've also got one of those DoublePow USB chargers. Had no issues with it; seems to work well.
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Distorted Vision started following Sony NiMH Gumstick Chargers
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I have come across 3 models: BC-9HE BC-9HS BC-7D What is the difference between 9HE and 9SE as they look the same to me? 7D does not have fold away pins. Wondering if there are any others and if any particular model is considered the best. I also came across this DoublePow one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154248731747 Wonder if I should get one of those as they are less than half the price of the original Sony ones.
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sony minidisc JA 50 ES stuck in standby mode.
kgallen replied to dries74maroc ben's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Our old favourite of extract and reinsert ribbon cables is also recommended. Take care to not lift the fingers on the end of the ribbon. -
kgallen started following sony minidisc JA 50 ES stuck in standby mode.
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sony minidisc JA 50 ES stuck in standby mode.
kgallen replied to dries74maroc ben's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
The CPU is not happy with some power up check. Possibly the drive is not fully ‘home’? Is there a disc in there? if there is a loading belt and you haven’t changed it, I would do that for a start. -
The monitor mode is supported on all Sony MD decks that I know of and by precedent is copied by other makes. You can use whatever gain is needed to make the sound right. It’s gain in the digital domain. If you need a high positive value it implies your source machine is putting out a low modulation digital signal over toslink or SPDIF coax. If the level can be improved at the source and and the MD kept say +6dB or below this would imply better ‘gain staging’ but if your source is weak then go ahead and bump it up at the MD DAC. Use the level meters on the MD and get the signal peaking close to 0dB on the meters without triggering ’peak’.
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Hello ,( I hope someone can help me).I have a SONY MDS JA 50 ES (NEW OLD STOCK-NEVER USED ).The problem is when i plugged in the standby light remains lit on red and nothing displays on the screen. When I press the buttons nothing happens. Except for (while pressing ams & rec i can access the service test mode).Any help from you would be greatly appreciated.Thanks
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Greg Geter started following MDS-JE440 optical (TOSLINK) out (project)
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What would be a good level to set when usign as an outboard DAC? -2.0 db (I think that's what it was originally before I touched it)? 0 db?
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Oh my. Amazing this works on the JE440, too. Now I can use it as an outboard DAC w/o hesitation. Awesome!
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Richie07 started following MDS-JE500 c1 errors
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Hi i have a mds-je 500 with mdm3, i have a problem, i can't read any mini disc, so , one can be read 1, 2 times, but not permanently... in service menu, laser is ajusted, (i have a lasermeter) ef balance is ok, fbias too, all adjustements are ok but a lot of c1 error (1500) is the problem, if i put the mdm3 in my mds-s39, all is all right, the pickup is not the problem, bd board seem to be not the problem too thanks in advance for any help I'm french, sorry if my english is not perfect 😉 Regards
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Greg Geter started following kgallen
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I'm really impressed - this is what the internet is for, to take advantage of our shared knowledge. Well done!
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Hello 1. Sonic Stage is not drag and drop. It's unknown to me whether MP3 files, for example, are directly copied to (and played from) the NW-E013F and similar devices. Or whether they get converted by SS and (then) copied to the device. The crash of SS is well-known, you should download the "Ultimate" version from our site here, and this may solve your problem. That crash occurs when SS goes out to a website that no longer exists, during initialization. 2. You may need the NetMD and/or HiMD drivers for Windows 64 bit (because I think the NW-E015F is set up to pretend to be a minidisc device or ATRAC Device). The .inf file you will have (assuming you have a CD or a download with the requisite files) is probably set up for Windows 32 bit. I'm not even sure if Windows 11 supports 32 bits any more. If it did, then the 32 bit Windows would likely solve your problem. However as there is no actual MD (minidisc) device, it is possible that the 64-bit thing is not an issue. But you may still be using ATRAC3 (which is a minidisc format) even if you start with MP3 files, for example. This means you still need a driver of some kind. 3. To support modified .inf files (such as the one I could make for you) is possible but Microsoft made it more and more difficult with successive versions of Windows. Basically you have to reboot the computer in a special mode for long enough to install the driver ("disable signature enforcement"). Once you have done so, all is well (and you can reboot normally), but you have to trick Windows into accepting "insecure" (tampered-with) versions of <whatever>.inf. Most likely, you have to get a driver installed, and somewhere there is a package for that. Maybe that's all you need. Perhaps you can tell us if you had it working before, or whether this is the first attempt on a new (to you) device and/or Windows version. It's also possible that you have to disable some (modern) checks in windows on self-modifying code ("Data Execution Prevention") but unless I had one of these and Windows 11 (I currently have neither) I can not really be sure about this. I hope this helps and that you can get it working. We have lots of people who know about this stuff, maybe one of them already solved this exact problem (your final question) 4. There are more modern (user-supported) software programs than Sonic Stage, though you will have to go through tha same or similar gyrations to get a new device working with these programs too. I am a SS fan, but there are plenty of folks who have experience with the new stuff. One program (out of the box and from Sony) that might work directly with your device is Sound Forge (part of Sony Vegas Studio Platinum) 9 or 10, as it has all the same smarts for reading and converting different files as does Sonic Stage, and will talk to an "ATRAC Device".