Balthar

Hi, The 110v blown deck may just be the fuse. Have you tried to openthe deck and see if the fuse is blown, if so just change it for one the same spec and probably the deck will be fine. Nothing to loose in trying. Regard's

That's correct. I've discovered that tuning (mv) laser power with the multimeter reading the iop it goes up counterclockwise and down clockwise. I've put it to read 83.3mv +/- at iop but it sill gives errors at playback. Without the LPM it´s impossible to get it right. Also in my deck an osciloscope is nedeed to do the traverse adjustment, so even if i manage to swap the laser optical unit i will need pro tools to get it right. regard's

It's made in Japan I read 838'79 That´s a very interesting thought i didin't remember. The postage of the mechanism should be much cheaper than the fulkl deck. Still wainting for the delivery of the new pickup unit ( 3 weeks from Germany to Portugal seems a bit to much). Regar's Artur

Hi, My optical pickup reads 838.79 but i cant find the iopwr function in the service menu. And although the deck is running it's not at 100%, it gives some read errors (sound drops). so i guess it needs a LPM to adjust the laser power correctly or even a new laser pickup, since it seems to record fine, at least the MD recorded on the Sony has no drops playing it in the Denon. SInce i don't have one (LPM) and they are rather expensive, i'll just kep using the Denon DMD1000. Thanks Artur

Thanks for the advice. In the MDS-ja30es the laser power is adjusted by a potenciometer in the BD board: Adjusting Method : " 1. Set the laser power meter on the objective lens of the optical pick-up. (When it cannot be set properly, press the 0 button or ) button and move the optical pick-up.) Connect the digital volt meter to TP (IOP) and TP (I+5V). 2. Rotate the AMS knob and display “LDPWR ADJUS”. (Laser power : For adjustment) 3. Press the YES button twice and display “LD $ 4B = 3.5 m”. 4. Adjust RV102 of the BD board so that the reading of the laser power meter becomes 3.45 ± 0.1mW. 5. Press the YES button and display “LD $ 96 = 7.0 m”. (Laser power : MO writing) 6. Check that the laser power meter and digital voltmeter readings satisfy the specified value. Specification : Laser power meter reading : 7.0 + 0.2 mW Digital voltmeter reading : Optical pick-up displayed value ± 10% (Optical pick-up label) lop = 82.5 mA in this case lop (mA) = Digital voltmeter reading (mV)/ 1 (W) 7. Press the YES button and display “LD $ 0F = 0.7 m”. (Laser power : MO reading) 8. Check that the laser power meter at this time satisfies the specified value. Specification : Laser power meter reading : 0.70 + 0.05 mW 9. Press the NO button and display “LDPWR ADJUS”, and stop laser emission. (The NO button is effective at all times to stop the laser" Unfortunately i do not own a LPM so i can't make that adjustment, it seems reasanobly easy to do with a LPM. I guess i'll just try to het one cheap in ebay or elsewhere, but since i've instaled the fan the optical unit it's running cool.

It's working fine even without the new laser. The bottom cover has been raised a litlle with some acrylic pieces, and with the installation of a small fan directly blowing to the laser the deck no longer gives error's at recording and playing. What a litle improvement in airflow can make. It seems the JA50Es is better in airflow since the back cover as ventilation holes the Ja30ES doesn't has. I also managed to make a reasanoble focus bias adjust. Now seaching for a laser power meter ( a cheap one). Regard's Artur

I took it to the service repair and it probably need's a new laser. Luck i got one new from ebay for 18£ so if it's good i guess it's a very good price. Regard's Artur

It's alive I guess the way to fix a bricked after a very hard failed focus bias adjust deck is( learned the hard way) 1) in the focus adjust retrieve the 3 parameters ( in my case was A0 / A0 /A0) 2) in the eep mode i find out where those parameters where 3) change the parameters to the before bricked values 4) it's working again although the focus adjust it's not correct 100% which i can't seem to achieve. Always take the parameters before changing them so you can go back to the previous ones ( also learned the hard way) P.S. Can someone give the factory settings so i can try them. thanks

Hi, Seems i've bricked the deck . After attempting a focus bias adjustment it no longer reads and i can't make another focus bias adjustment since it can read the continuos recording disc. Is there a way to reset the focus bias withou loading a disc, or adjusting the parameters in any other way?

Hi, thanks, I would say it's very warm, and after changing the laser power a little the disc record better then before, it no longer gives the disc error, but after trying to play it it stills skips a little, but after the deck cools a bit no longer skips, so i guess it's realy a problem with the laser power or focus, the focus is done via service menu only so it can be done. My problem with laser adjustment is i don't have a laser power meter .

I found out where to adjust the laser power but since i don't have a laser power meter i'll do it by trial. I had to remove the mech to acess the laser dial so i need to remove the allways remove the mech to adjust the laser. The unit itself should have some sort of sensor to read the laser power.

Problaby something like that. Can the alignment and laser power be made at home or does it require especialized tools? Regard's Artur

Hello, First of all hello to all forum members. As the title says i have a MDJA30ES and since a few months back it developed a strange problem (or not). It was not recording very well, after some time also playing with skips, then after recording a full disc it couldn't be read anywhere and give a disc error. After send it to a service and get everything regreased and tuned the service repairman said it as recording as expected and just needed to close the lid to give it to me. When i tried at home it gave me the same errors as before, so after a while i decided to make the test with the lid off and all went fine, recording and playing as new. So i guess my unit is suffering some form of overheating, and after a recording session with the lid on i removed it and the deck mech as indeed very hot. My problem now is how to solve the overheating problem, is there anything i should look for? The deck inside is like new, no dust i see no damged caps so can't figure out what's causing the overheating problem. Thank's all Artur