bluecrab

Can that be done in Service Mode (the laser power adjust)? If so, is it something the decks can do themselves or do you need external equipment? Not sure I want to mess with them, but not out of the question.

I recently acquired the Sony MDS-JA20ES MD deck off Ebay. It's a nice machine and sounds almost as good as the MDS-JA333ES. Both of these units, though, exhibit some odd behavior when I try to erase a disc. What happens is that I get the "TOC Writing" message flashing and flashing and flashing - like it's in a loop or like the machine isn't able to finish the task. IIRC, the discs I am trying to erase were recorded on an MXD-D400 or possibly an MXD-D40. Seems unusual to me that the JA20ES and JA333ES would behave this way. What I have to do to get out of this is to pull the plug, since no buttons on the front panel or remote will have any effect in the "TOC Writing" context. The JA333eS may require further fiddlin' around when plugged back in, but the JA20ES acted like all was well. The good news, sort of, is that I got both if these units for playback, not so much recording, so as long as they continue to play back all right, I will continue to use the MXD-D400, D40, and if needed JB940 for recording and for erasing MDs. It is a minor annoyance to not be able to erase MDs on the high-enders or to forgo using them for recording, but they do sound sweet! I was just wondering if anyone had experienced anything similar.

There is some information about track marking on Page 9 of the manual (Notes on Recording). If you do not have the manual, it is online here: http://www.minidisc.org/part_Sony_MDS-JE510+S38.html The 510 was more infamous for its self-turn-on problem than for anything like this. Good luck with that track-marking.

Well, I did try going from an older CD changer to the Cambridge Audio receiver via opt. out and that was nice, a noticeable improvement (as opposed to analog out from the changer) and will probably add extra years of service for the changer - a 6-CD Onkyo that I am fond of, anyway. But the NAD C352 is staying put, analog inputs and all. Thanks for the suggestion, it certainly was helpful for the relatively ancient Onkyo changer.

Not a bad idea, but then I would not only have to part ways with my amp - a NAD C352 - but also replace it with something that has features I will never use, as I am pretty much limited to two-channel stereo in this particular situation. It is good to know, though, that your switching from the 400's DAC to the Onkyo's DAC was an improvement. I tried a similar thing on a different setup...I went Opt. out JB940 to Opt. in Cambridge Audio 540R v3 (receiver), but I didn't notice much of a difference.

I am considering adding an external DAC to my system. One use of the DAC might be to attach it to my MXD-D400, which I no longer use as an input source because it doesn't sound as good to me as my JA333ES. This is to be expected, but there are times when it would be convenient for me to play MDs (and CDs) via the 400. So I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with MD to external DAC. My goal here is not to make the 400's output sound like a CD, just to make it sound -better- . I think the rest of the system; that is, the amp and speakers, are good enough that I'd notice a sound upgrade if it were there. For those who are interested in such things, I am leaning toward the Valab NOS DAC, a unit which in itself is a bit of a curiosity. Any general comments about an external DAC also welcome. I have never had one or even heard one.

After seeing this, I powered on my 333ES to see about clicking. This is a US model that I bought used on Ebay. Mine has some definite peculiarities - let's just say that recording or even erasing don't work as they should - but I use it only for playback anyway. In any case, it clicks once on power-on and that's it. It -does- seem to take a while longer than my other MD decks for No Disc to appear, but I am not getting the number of clicks that Gerchy reports. It also clicks once on power-off. I have the unit connected via analog in and optical out. As for the 555ES, I was watching one a couple of months ago on a non-Ebay site. The 555's lack of LP would be a big deal for me, but this particular unit looked to be in near-mint condition. However, it finally sold for 900 USD, which was more than I would have paid for it. If the LP issue isn't decisive for you, then you could consider the 555. I have never heard that unit, but the few comparisons I have seen between it and the 333 don't say that the SQ difference between them is all that much - they mainly mention the build quality of the 555. HTH and good luck.

Since I am seeing more than the usual amount of negativity here, I thought I mention that last night I whipped up a couple of nice comps CD > MD, using my MXD-D400, One was LP2 and the other SP. I listened to all 4 hours of them today. I am happy to report that the SQ on both was more than adequate, as played back thru my NAD C372, MDS-JA333ES, and Axioms. I'm typing this on an old eMAC that, like minidisc, has life left in it yet. All smiles here!

Well, I must admit to having expertise in some areas, but this isn't one of them, as my MD/computer use is pretty much only an occasional iTunes > MD via line out. I have never even heard of Audiochecker until seeing it here. As for SCMS, it was foisted upon us by the Dark Side.

Several days ago, I happened upon a Sony MDS-JA555ES MD deck for sale on Audiogon. Many people regard this as possibly the best MD deck ever made. Although it is SP-only, it lacks little else. The unit was described as near-mint and its accessories still in their unopened plastic bags. Although I consider LP mode essential for my use of MD, I have to say I was intrigued by the possibility of owning this exquisite machine. At that time, the bid for it was around 125 USD, I'd paid around 275 for my MDS-JA333ES on Ebay, so I thought the 555 might go for around that, maybe a bit more. And it was located close enough to me that I could probably just go pick it up and save shipping costs. "$300," I thought. "I might go as high as 300, even though I'm not sure where I'd put it or what I'd use it for." I need not have worried, as the 555 eventually sold for 900 USD. Wow, that is a lot of money, at least it is for me! I did manage to save a photo of it before the auction ended and I have attached said photo. It is truly a beautiful-looking MD deck. $900 though - I guess the really good MD stuff still is in demand.

What I think - opinions vary on this subject - is that since you don't expect to use LP mode, then try to find one with TYPE R ATRAC. I think it sounds noticeably better than 4.5 and that the few $ more it may cost you is worth it. If you are inclined to think "Hmmm...maybe someday I might just want to check out LP mode," then you might even want to consider looking for a unit with Type S. I used the MZ-R500 for years (4.5 I think) and thought it sounded just fine - until I acquired the Type S MZ-DN430 which, although perhaps a bit less full-featured than the MZ-R*00 series, was a distinct upgrade in SQ for both SP and LP modes. (Type S includes Type R.) Welcome and good luck!

The remote is hard to find and expensive. This place in the United Kingdom may have it: http://www.findremotes.com/remote-controls-1/yamaha-remote-controls-mdx596-50611.htm ...but the price is 42.64 GBP or about 2020 Thailand Baht. They will probably add shipping, too. It is possible that there may be some undocumented way to get from Mono to Stereo that does not require the remote, but you can't count on that. If you're going to spend the 2020 THB on the remote, then I think SFBP has a good idea about just buying a used MD deck instead. Good luck with it all!

I've done some MD > CD > MD recording, and the result is pretty much all right (that is, the second MD) so long as the source is of good quality. Of course, that applies to any recording to or from MD. I do not generally backup MDs, but on occasion do back up the source. Other than when I'm where I'd expect to hear them, I haven't noticed any frogs croaking ;-) Still spinning!

Nice pick-up! 1. The MD won't play - error C13 reading TOC. COULD THIS BE BECAUSE OF THE 100V model? Would it be worth getting a stepdown transformer (120->100) first before trying to get the drive fixed? I had the C13 Read Error on two of my decks, (480, 940), both 120V units. In both cases I had to go into Service Mode. Since neither deck was working correctly, I felt like there was nothing to lose. I took the cover off the 940, went into SM, inserted an MD, and at some point, IIRC, hit the >> button. I watched as the head moved - and read the disc! When I left SM, it still worked. I did the same for the the 480 (although didn't remove cover) and that started working, too. I tried this only after trying a few suggested solutions I found on the web, which failed. I also had tried some stuff from the Service Manual, also failed. I have not used the 940 since, so I don't know how successful the "fix" was for it. The unit has a long history of flakiness, including prior C13 errors. The 480, OTOH, is being used by my brother, who so far has reported no problems. It has been said that the 100V units will work OK on 120V current, and it also has been said to not do this. I have a 100V MD deck (MXD-D400) for which I use a step-down. I think perhaps ONCE I powered it on without the transformer, and it did power up, but I never actually used it that way. It works fine now with the step-down, although it does do a couple of flaky things not exhibited by the 120V model of the same unit that I have. My gut feeling is that the C13 isn't caused by the 100/120V issue, but really, that's just my hunch, I have nothing really on which to base it. 3. The FM is 76-90. Not much use here in Canada. I don't care that much, just wondered if there is a commonly available fix to change the range, as it looks like this unit is identical to the north-american-marketed one. Most of the FM converters seem to be for cars. But here's an interesting take on one: http://userpages.bright.net/~geary/fm/fmconverter.html Good luck with it all, hope the unit becomes functional!

I have two MXD-D400s (one US, one Japan) and a US JA333ES. I had the 400s first and I had a concern similar to yours. However, I haven't noticed much of a difference in playback with LP2 between the units. I do not use LP4 for music playback and Type S does not affect SP mode. I do use LP2 a lot. Both decks (I am currently using only the US MXD-D400) are connected to a NAD C372 integrated amp via their analog outs. The 333ES has a set of filters that seem to function as some sort of EQ. Because you are using an outboard DAC, YMMV. (The NAD C372 doers not have any digital input.) In any case, the 333ES is an impressive machine. I feel it is good enough that I have relegated the MXD-D400 to CD > MD copying only.

I am not economically forced to stay with MD, I just like it. Yes, I sometimes do have to make "excuses," although people either don't ask or those who know me have just given up trying to understand. If I had to start all over again today? I likely would not even look at MD, but no matter, I'm there. I love it, and what's done is done. Had I the ability to do so, there are far more important things in my life (looking back) that I would change. But I can't change those, either! 16:9 CRT TV, 32" (1/2 depth LG, bought just before tube TVs pretty much went the way of....MD?) ;-) I like the flat screen, though. I don't know what the UK car refs mean; however, I'm still driving a manny trans 5-speed (4-cyl Ford Escape, 2006) and I hope to never give up doing my own gear shifting. Give me minidisc, a stick shift and a Hi-def CRT and there's nothin' I can't do! ;-)

I thought this was a joke, but if it is, it's cleverly disguised all over the Web as the real thing. Have to love this [mechanical, I would guess] translation: "If You are stayed in Japan you be available to purchase the X-N7EX Mini Hi-Fi FR series for 44,800 Yen or about $491 and Onkyo X-N9EX Mini Hi-Fi FR for 59,800 Yen or around $655." Oh well, I be not stayed in Japan.

I voted yes, of course. But I see George is in London, and my experience has been that if you say "minidisc" to someone from the UK, they at least know what you mean. Not so here in the good old US of A, mainly. For my part, were Sony ever to "revive" MD, I'd be lining up (that is "queuing up" for those in the UK ;-) ) to buy the latest and greatest. I'd be truly surprised if we see new MD.

Quite right. I took as a near-personal insult that Sony set the file to uncopyable. I was able to screen-shot the page and save it that way. I wonder if I'd been at home and had Acrobat Pro at my disposal if I could have changed the perms on that file. Oh well, your scan worked just fine.

You mean these specs? (attached) ICDSX700D_mksp.pdf

There's a deep end? News to me! ;-) Smaller stuff I just bluster my way through when it comes to the spousal unit. For larger items...those I have shipped to me at work. Then I take them home and sneak them in through the basement, to eventually go wherever they are going. Since they all look alike (black or silver boxes) to my wife, unless I say something, she never notices the difference, as long as I'm just replacing something. And since I have no space left to do anything else, this trick always works!

On many Sony MD decks (at least the ones I have), you enter Service Mode pretty much as noted on P.4 of the MDS-JB940 Service Manual, which is here: http://minidisc.org/manuals/sony/service/sony_MDS-JB940_service_manual.pdf I do not know if this procedure will work on the MDS-E12 and even if it does, you have to take care once you're in there.

Right. I am guessing that most of the misbehaving Malaysian 510s made their way to the US. Mine was definitely of of those and labeled as such. Then again, just to confound things a bit, my American-market MXD-D400 has been a real workhorse and performs flawlessly. My Japan-version MXD-D400 has couple of so-far non-fatal bug-like "features," though.

What happened was that when I bought a used MDX-CA680CX for my car, the seller sent me a bunch of other stuff with it, including some SS-made LP4s. I still have a few of them. To ME, at least, the SS-made LP4s DO sound better than LP4s made on my CD>MD deck, but I do not know why. In fact, although I have tried to figure out what sounds best - THIS MD does...no THAT CD does,,,why does this LP2 sound so nice?...etc etc etc, none of it ever adds up to anything truly conclusive. Just go with what sounds good to you and don't fret over the technical minutiae of it all.