Mr_Bass_Man

The original poster should be in luck, as that part is indeed listed in Partstore. However another alternative is to cannibalise another unit (look on EBay for cheap non-workers)- like another in this thread my son has an N707 which lost a couple of screws, and I obtained replacements for it in this way. It is always worth checking the tightness of your case screws every now and then with an appropriate jewellers' screwdriver, as this does seem to be a fairly common problem, probably due to the flexing of the case during normal day-to-day use. Hope this helps

I think you are constraining yourself too much with your desire for a Panasonic (ie non-HiMD) unit as a second machine. Having a second machine is a good idea, but I would suggest that you buy a HiMD unit as a second unit, in which case you can use Hi-SP format which most people seem to agree is sonically very good. Sonic Stage DOES transfer in this format, so that would appear to me to solve your problem. Hope this helps ...

Well, I bought a brand-new NH1 in the UK from a high street retailer when it was on "special offer" for just less than 100 UKP (I read about the availability of this offer on this very forum ...). Now that is about 210 Canadian dollars or 188 US Dollars at today's prices. Bearing in mind the earlier comments about "HD Amps" and "magnesium sleek bodies", I think that was rather a good deal. Would I have paid around 25% more had that been the deal? I think the answer is probably "yes" as the NH1 is a smashing piece of kit - _almost_ as nice as my beloved N10 aesthetically, and it has a removable battery plus the added flexibility of HiMD ...

As far as I can tell the drive units for the PMX100 are the same as the PX100, so they sound substantially the same. I have to say that the PMX100 are a _little_ tight on me, they seem to be tighter than the PMX60s which I also have, but not excessively so. The PX100s over the head are adjustable, and tightness isn't an issue with me. They pack plenty of bass for smallish headphones, and if bass is your thing, I am sure you will like them. Perhaps the "tightness" contributes to the relative bassiness of them, as they do seem to my ears to provide a touch more a the bottom end of the spectrum. Having said all that, all factors are very subjective. Hope this helps anyway. Martin

I'm pretty sure that the E10 and the N10 use the same(6V) charger. HhH ...

I have just snapped my NH700 :- HtH

Guessing from some of the the symptoms, it looks as if you need the correct ".inf" file to allow Windows to recognise the device. In spite of the original CD being for the Japanese home market, the ".inf" files may well be there. However, I still would have expected your system to recognise that there is a new device being connected, even if it couldn't locate the correct ".inf" for it, so maybe you have more than one problem(?) I am sure someone here will be able to help. Best of luck!

Hello and welcome to the forum. It possibly sounds like your newest version of Sonic Stage doesn't have the correct driver for your "old" NetMD. You might like to try the drivers from your older version, if you still have it, or you may even be able to find something suitable in the downloads section of this forum. I had a similar problem a while back, and I was kindly helped by a forum member, which had the desired result. Good luck!

The N910 appears to a prime candidate for this fault, I have one with this fault, though it has had quite a bit of use as a recorder (you can tell from reading data from the EEPROM roughly how much use it has had). My faulty unit has incremented the EEPROM recording register to 34C(hex) which is 844 (decimal). 844 "what" I am not sure, maybe minutes(?) If I were to guess at the mechanism of the fault, I would suggest that it is a combination of the "flexing" of the ribbon cable as the write head goes back and forth, and the current in the conductors which are connected to the write head. A "fatigue" point on the cable conductor and a reasonable amount of current going through that same conductor might produce a small "hot-spot" which may be enough to eventually cause the fracture of the cable at that point. A microscope photograph of a severed conductor may show whether or not this theory is plausible.

Thanks Ishi, it seems to be working fine now. Kindest regards

I have tried to get into the ATRACLife forums from two separate machines (same login name/password) and all I get is Sorry, you are not permitted to use this board Is it broken, or have I been "banned for life"? I can't even get the online help pages to help me figure out the problem for myself ...

A lot depends on how far along the "hi-fi" line you intend to go. If you are talking about something which is pleasant to your ears, but wouldn't necessarily satisfy the "audiophile", then you could do worse than look at some of the single-chip IC power amplifiers which are available, and which are fairly cheap. You need to consider how you are going to power the unit (you might have a spare "wall wart" transformer which can deliver, say 12V at 1 or 2A which should be able to power such an amplifier, and you don't really need to worry about equalisation circuits except perhaps to overcome any shortcomings in your speakers. When you see "RIAA" equalisation mentioned, it is usually in the context of compensating for the characteristics of moving coil pickups for turntables, you really don't need to go there, as the output of MD players is essentially "flat" and around 1V in amplitude (at "line out" levels), so your amplifier isn't going to need a tremendous amount of voltage gain. You might already have some active speakers for your computer which has facilities for line input. I have some of those which I use occasionally and the result can be perfectly acceptable, depending on the circumstances. There is no single simple straighforward answer, but I miriad of solutions which may do what you want, so you are embarking on potentially a very interesting journey ... Have fun!

I have included a small pictorial comparing the two popular types of Sennheiser neckband phones, the PMX60 and PMX100. http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?act=m...m&album=268 I have used the PMX60s for some time on stage for montitoring purposes (I have two pairs, the second as a spare), and have just acquired the PMX100s, following comments from (TheLow)Volta. Sonically, to my ears the PMX100s win hands down, but their "foldable" feature probably means that they are less rugged, and not as suitable for stage equipment as the '60s. The '100s are a tighter fit on my head, and have noticeably more bass response, but this may be a fuction of the "tightness", at least in part. I can wear the '60s comfortably on stage for an hour or more without discomfort. The '100s are slightly more expensive, but both, I believe represent good value for money. Note that the PMX60 has a right-angled jack connector, and the PMX100 a "linear" one - the latter being preferable, in my opinion. HtH

I have an EBay-China-originated spare Li-Ion Battery for my NH1, and it appears to be fine. Not quite what you were implying, but HtH anyway ...

I have a couple of pairs of PMX60s, I use one of the them as a "stage monitor" when I play with my band (fed from a mini-mixer), and it really does the business for me. They are also very comfortable, and I have quite a large head ... The second pair is really a reserve pair in case I break the first, but I use them often with one of my MD units, and the quality is pretty good, though not quite as good as the PX100s I also have. Apart from being slightly better accoustically, the main advantage of the PX100 over the PMX60s, is that they do indeed collapse down into a small case which can be packed in a bag, or just about anything. The PMX's don't collapse and therefore are rather bulky and vulnerable in a case (the main reason why I have a "spare" pair). Next time I have a few spare pounds in my wallet, maybe I will try a pair of PMX100s. HtH

Absolutely right. I picked up an NH700 for MUCH less than half the price of an RH1, and have used it for mic. recordings, and the results are impressive. There was (is) a bit of an issue with a high frequency tone in the background, but I figure that is more likely to be an issue with the "cheap and cheerful" microphone I use rather than with the MD itself. (BTW I wanted to record a thunderstorm here last week, but unfortunately the storm triggered off one of my neighbours' burglar alarm, so that would have somewhat spoiled the recording!!!! )

As far as I can tell without looking at the schematic diagram of the circuit, switching the switch to "Built-in Battery - OFF" effectively removes the battery from the circuit. I suppose it is possible that the internal battery is playing up (if otherwise exhibits a "normal" life, and takes a decent charge when connected to the charger, then it is more than likely OK), which may give strange results. Best of luck ...

Regarding the problem with not being able to upload "NetMD" recordings with the MZ-RH1, just what is the key difference with NetMD recordings versus say, "digital" recordings? Obviously the first has been downloaded via the USB connection from the PC, whereas the second via the optical connection from some source or other, but apart from this, just what is the issue?

If those figures are to be believed, that is less than 0.2dB change. A change of 1dB (very roughly 20%) is about the limit of what most people can readily determine reliably. I'm with the Low Volta and his "placebo effect"!

I have a number of MD units, and there are certainly some variations with battery box connections. However, my experience is that "if it fits, it's fine to use". Some of the contact spacings are subtly different, and whereas you would swear they were the same, when you actually try to connect them they don't! You have to make sure you get the battery in the right way round of course!

er, no, ... not really ... N E V E R ! ! ! (pls don't look at the sig!) (actually the sig is an understatment ... ! ! !) My wife thinks I have lost my sense of reason. She is probably right

Bob is correct, but of course the N10's battery is built-in and cannot be easily removed. However there is a "Built-In Battery On/Off" switch on the back which prevents the unit from doing anything (responding to button presses, etc). Ordinarily, once the "stop" button is pressed the unit goes "dormant" after about 20 seconds.

The MZ-R909 is NOT a NetMD unit, it can only record digitally via the optical in socket. It is LP capable though. HtH

Hi, I don't think it is quite as simple as that. I have seen somewhere on this site a link to a homebrew project where the electronics from the charger base is cannibalised to make a charging adaptor powered by AA cells (if my memory serves). The implication is that the electronic gubbins in the charger which you have lost contains the components required to use the dc available from the USB connection charge the Li-Ion battery in the NH1. So it isn't simply a case of sticking 6V dc up the USB cable. Hopefully someone in this forum will come up with something which will lead to your salvation - maybe the fact that the NH1 has a removeable battery may be of some use if there is such a thing as an external Li-Ion charger ... Best of luck!

When you pulled the power to reset the unit, did you ( a ) remove the battery from the battery compartment and ( b ) leave it for some time (maybe a minute) before repowering the unit?