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dcx693

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Posts posted by dcx693

  1. Hi i have just bought a mz-n505 minidisc player,which has a awesome sound,but i was wondering about the remote thingy lol that came with it,there seems to be no way of listening to the headphones if the remote is plugged in, and next it came with two siver sony dry batterys r6 size aa 1.5v are they the sort i can charge,only i have no charger with the minidisc,and should i still use sonicstage or should i use some thing else ,sorry about the confusion, i am slowly reading throu the manual,best wishes Brian

    Don't know if you'll see this, but.... you can't use the headphone jack when the remote is plugged in. I have this unit also. You plug your headphones into your remote to listen to the unit. the original packaging for the unit did not include any batteries (IIRC), but the unit is capable of charging a rechargeable battery if one is installed in the unit (just press down on the control pad when the unit is off and plugged into power. You should download SonicStage from Sony and use that to manage your music. You can couple it with Simple Burner to download music from your CDs direct to the MD player, but you must have SonicStage installed in order to use it.

  2. I bought one on ebay but it didn't have any cables with it. The online instructions don't help much. What kind of cable do I need to copy from PC to MD? Where is the best place to get one?

    Thanks

    This question really belongs in the pre-MDLP section of the forums, btw. ;) I used to have the R70 (loved it). It has a mic/optical in jack, no USB connection. If memory serves, the R70 was sold in various configurations only differentiated by the type of cable it was shipped with.

    The simplest way to get audio onto your player is to connect it to the output of your sound card using a male/male minijack cable. (Or if you have an advanced sound card, an optical out designed especially for minidiscs. My Herculces Digifire 7.1 has this jack, I'm not sure how common it is.) This male/male cable is commonly available at any electronics store. You can spend $2 and up for it. I found these at Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family I believe Sony also shipped USB to minijack cables with some versions of the player, but I didn't have those myself.

  3. How does it define "Quality" ?

    I believe the "quality" setting for VBR recordings refers to how often the variation in the bit rate occurs to accommodate the source. For example, it might check the bit rate every 1/4 sec to see if it needs to be increased or decreased to more adequately encode the music. Changing the setting changes how often the checking occurs.
  4. Exactly, and if you need the best quality out of a predictable bitrate, there's also ABR.
    I actually use ABR most of the time. I use VBR with min of 64 kbps and max of 192 kbps and set the ABR to be 128. It nets me a good mix of quality and file size. In listening tests, I found it very good, so I stuck with it.
  5. Sorry, I thought it was vice-versa. My layperson understanding is that VBR reduces the bitrate at quieter/less complicated sections of the track, therefore smaller filesize. With CBR you get better or at least the same quality but always with higher filesize.

    Explain and enlighten me please, greenmachine!

    Let me take a stab at it, if I may....

    When greenmachine says that:

    constant bitrate = variable quality

    variable bitrate = constant quality

    He means that if you use CBR, the quality of your encodings will vary because no matter how complex or simple the music is, the same amount of encoded information is saved. Even if more data is required to accurate encode a section of music, CBR won't do it. The quality is "variable" because the ability of CBR to accurate encode the music is "variable".

    With VBR, the amount of encoded information varies with the complexity of the music. Yes, you should get a smaller file size if you are encoding very simple music, but you'll also get a bigger file if you encode something more complex. The quality of the encoding is certainly more "constant" in the sense that you'll get a more accurate representation of the original source.

  6. I originally answered the poll saying I use LP4, but then I went home and did a test. I encoded 3 different tracks from 3 different music types and did some quick tests. I knew I was sacrificing quality with LP4, but I decided that I liked having lots of music with me. Now, after the tests, I've decided that I'd rather carry a few more MDs with me than live with LP4.

    Some music works fine on LP4 and I will continue using it occasionally. However for most classical, instrumental, or vocal music, LP4 is just not good enough. I use Simple Burner for all my transfers to my N505 (thank you Nero ImageDrive!), so I don't use SP ever.

    Now, I'm considering getting a Hi-MD unit. Even with LP2 I can fit almost 5 hours on a regular MD.

  7. The thing that *REALLY* annoys me about buying CDs ... is the fact that CD-TEXT was invented perhaps a DECADE ago and almost ALL CDs *still* do *not* have it! mad.gif  It even used to be that all labels associated with Sony in some way had CD-Text but now even those labels are releasing discs WITHOUT CD-TEXT!!!  It is retarded that with all the music files, DAPs, etc. in use today that CDs aren't even released with a *tiny* bit of subcode that allows for text.  The aging CD only shows its age even more when you buy a CD today in 2005 and you put it in your CD-Text-capable player and it is utter disappointment everytime when all you see is the stupid track number and playtime.  mad.gif  mad.gif  mad.gif

    Here's a really annoying workaround that even I wouldn't bother with: rip the CDs to your HD, use Nero to look up the CD text, then rewrite the CD to a CD-R. I wouldn't do it personally since it would drive me crazy to have to dupe each CD that I own...but it is possible to do. wink.gif

  8. A lot of people seem to have a problem with the NZ-N505 and the buttons "Jumping" and I was wondering how many people have this problem.  If there is any way of solving this problem I would like to hear it.

    Well, I doubt this post will help the original poster, but might help someone in the future. The control pad on my MZ-N505 started acting up maybe 2 years ago. The FWD button would sometimes go back. I got it fixed by Sony under warranty. I haven't used the unit that much in the time since, but it's recently started acting up again. The pad simply isn't designed for the term IMHO. Luckily for me, I recently got a remote control for the N505 (the RM-MC33EL) and now I won't have to deal with the control pad on the unit as much.

    There is no easy fix I know of for the pad. I've tried canned air as suggested on another forum.

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