jaylen

Benz plastic is probably thicker/denser (hmm, WEIGHT? lol) compared to Toyota's standards. ""weight and the choice of magnesium, aluminum or plastic doesn't have direct impact on quality."

No, I did see that. Craftsmanship (like you said) is included in build quality, which includes body construction/material and weight, among other things. Why else would people think plastic is "cheap" and metal is nicer. Your words: "weight and the choice of magnesium, aluminum or plastic doesn't have direct impact on quality." Anyway, I think we've beaten this topic to death. If you have any more arguments/excuses as to why we disagree, feel free to PM me. I don't want to intrude on other forumers' posting/reading space.

Um, I was never making a comparison between the R50 and RH1. I just stated that weight AND build material are very important in determining what we think "feels cheap" (ie, perceived quality). So, I don't judge by weight only either. But, what I did disagree with is when you stated that weight and construction material don't contribute to body quality. Edit: I think we are agreeing with things, but you're taking me the wrong way (or not understanding what I wrote). You think the RH1 feels cheap. I think the NH1 feels cheap. And, guess what? I bet they're both made of the same material.

I charged one of my 1-bar-left batteries and this is how it went: red light turns on; 60 min left --> 00 min (slowly); red light turns off. So, the battery is about 75%-ish full. There's still a trickle charge to get it 100% (even though the red light is off), but I remember reading that it takes a couple of more hours. To charge/use my unit, I have the NH1's back facing me and insert the battery with the gold bars facing me and to the left. Edit: I did what pws suggested. I put the battery in "backwards" (NH1's back is facing me; gold bars facing away) and tried to charge. It went from "-- min" and appeared as if it was charging because the red light was on. Then, after about 30 sec, the unit went to "00 min" and shut off. I think (hopefully) that pws is right on about this. Good luck.

Weight and body material do have a direct impact on perceived quality, which is very important - afterall, it made you feel that the RH1 is a "downgrade" to the DH10P/R50, and a lot of people on this forum would firmly disagree with that comment of yours.

I've never set anything (like "the minutes") in order for the unit to charge. I just plug it in using my universal adapter and look for the red light on the side (which does turn off after some time). After about 4 hours or so, the battery is full. If someone doesn't beat me to it, I'll charge up my NH1, watch more carefully what happens, and let you know.

littlecx: I know what you mean. I had an N1 (magnesium body) and even though it was lightweight, the thinness of the metal did make it feel pretty inexpensive and almost plastic-ish. With Hi-MD, my NH1 (also magnesium) does feel "cheapy" compared to my EH1/NH3D (brushed aluminum) and the DH10P, another sturdy-feeling unit. Seems like Sony likes to use the lighter magnesium body with a lot of their recorders - N1, NH1, RH1.

These eBay LIP4WM from China could be another case of "factory leakage" as discussed about (supposed) fake Sony MD remotes. http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showt...=16094&st=0

I'm not sure what comes with the EH1 from Audiocubes. As far as I know, the EH1 was strictly a Japan-only unit, so it would have the 100V, non-universal adapter. I think the EH70 comes with the universal one because it's the "tourist model." You could always e-mail them to ask. I've heard they've got good customer service. Good luck.

lol How were your batteries packaged? Do they have that plastic carrying case?

Easy there, Bob. I never said it was stupid. What I found to be "stupid" was people buying the radio remote and it selling for more than or equal to what an MD unit costs. Edit: No, not for the NH700, at least. Otherwise, the box/e-tailer sites would've said "compatible with Sony radio remotes" and forumers wouldn't be asking if the NH700 works with the 37/39LT.

No mistake. Someone over on T-Board purchased one just yesterday.

Rodrigo: Here is a link to download the N505 service manual: http://forums.minidisc.org/downloads/details.php?file=25 Here is something you can read about recording problems and trying to fix it: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?s=&am...ost&p=21312 Good luck!

Kind of old news, but you sure can. Just with the NH700/NHF800 (and other older MD units that are radio-capable), not other Hi-MD units. This is where it seemed to have all started: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=14897&hl= doomlordis was the first to confirm that both the 37LT and 39LT remotes work with the NH700, full radio function included.

lol Yeah, seriously. And, when you read the 2 reviews on that Audiocubes site by Justin and Mohammad, it almost makes you wonder if they're bogus or they really bought it at that US$229 price. Their NF610 and NF810 cost less than that.

You might get more responses/attention if you posted this in the Classifieds section. I know you don't like eBay, but besides here and T-Board, eBay is the best place to get remotes and battery attachments for cheap and where you can use PayPal. Good luck.

Yep, I agree. But, then they wouldn't be making this much money (check here: http://www.audiocubes.com/category/Audio+P...ner_remote.html ) by selling the radio remotes to NH700 owners.

The RH10 also plays mp3 files, although the quality is said to be unimpressive. Any non-black RH10 will be difficult to find unless you have a Japan contact - Audiocubes and other e-tailers don't have the colored Japanese RH10 on their sites anymore. It sounds like you'll only be doing "recording" using SonicStage. You could always save yourself the money and headache (of tracking down places to buy the RH1/RH10) and just get something like the NH600 or NH700. Both are still widely available (and relatively cheaper) and can download in SonicStage SP. Sure the NH600/700 aren't much to look at (kind of ugly, in my opinion), but they suit your MD/SonicStage purposes just fine and are very rugged units. But, personally, I would pick the RH1 over the RH10. Good luck, Jon.

To be honest, I think the "idiots" at Sony will be saying, "Stop with the crap earbuds and get yourself some decent headphones if you want earth-shattering bass."

ChrisG: Please don't get the RH1 without having tried it out or listened to in person. The last thing this forum needs is you getting the RH1, finding out it doesn't have the super-mega-massive-uber-turbo bass that you so desperately desire, then coming back here and telling everyone and their mother how poor a unit the RH1 is. You've already stated in many, many threads that Sony units cannot supply the bass that your old Sharp possesses (no matter what earbuds you use), so why buy another Sony with which you have no first-hand experience? Save yourself money for now and save us from future RH1 complaints. Peace.

lol It's OK. Don't shake your head. You've got that MD disease. I'd go ahead and put up an ad in the Classifieds section for that remote. There are a lot of new RH1 owners who may have an eye out for that 40ELK. Congrats on your NH900/NH1 combo and welcome to Team Gotta-Have-More-Than-1-MD-Unit.

Gotcha! I was wondering when you'd need a sidekick. Somehow "boot camp" and "Hollywood" don't seem to look right together.

Eh?

Happy birthday, Adrian, Sir Spaminator.

Nope. NH1 uses Li-ion and NH900 uses NiMH gumstick/AA adaptor.