Avrin

Then it is not a problem. It should be quite a bit loose when opened. This is by design.

Forget about it - it almost never gets dirty. Just clean the positive one. This may or may not be a serious problem. Is it loose only when opened? Or is it loose even when closed? In the latter case you've got a problem, since the battery door on the RH[9]10 is a very fragile thing, and any attempt to fix or modify it may lead to serious damage, the door may even be broken completely.

Just checked SP to PC transfer with one of my RH1's and Adobe Audition. Found no cutoffs - the transferred file has its full frequency range.

I did not mean the contacts of the battery itself. The contacts of the unit may also need cleaning. And a fake NH-14WM is not an unheard of thing nowadays. If you turn a NH-14WM battery upside down and see a "FOR NH-10WM" in the middle of the text - it is a fake! Charges in a couple of hours, discharges in 3-4 hours. But it will eventually swell inside the unit, and damage it - so be very carefull!

Try cleaning the battery contacts for a start.

And make a backup of the files before trying to import them. No one knows what problems may arise. I would also advise importing by albums, and not the entire collection at once. And remember, that after importing, the music will be stored at the place you imported it from, and not in the usual SonicStage folder. That is, do not delete the files. Or you may manually put them into "C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\SonicStage\Packages" before importing.

Chris G, the design of the lock is really stupud. Almost as stupid as the design of the Eject button, though the latter is more obvious. Think for yourself.

Both my RH1's feel solid. They just look a bit different. And the RH910 looks really stupid in comparison, but sounds...

Well, the lock on the RH1 definitely has some tolerances. The two unfortunate units belonging to me have about a ~.3 - .5mm difference when closed. Looks like the yours has a more serious problem. I am currently enjoying a blue RH910 purchased 6 days ago in mint condition, and both my RH1's are now only used as downloaders for it. The RH910 has no problems whatsoever, and the soft sound of it reminds me of better times. Currently listening to the chamber works of Francis Poulenc.

No and no.

You'll have to go through WAV. No other way if your files are now in the ATRAC3[plus] format. I'd rather stick with the ATRAC3[plus] version you already have, unless you need to play them on a non-ATRAC device.

Anyway, the photo tells a lot about yourself: 1. You have a good remote. 2. You are carrying the unit in a pants pocket. 3. You keep the unit connected to a PC for prolonged periods of time. And don't worry - the state of your OLED allows it to work for a few years more.

Right after you get into the service mode, the display goes through a repeating Version > On > Off sequence. Simply press the STOP button, when the display is On to keep it On. And yes, the missing letters problem only applies to Hi-MD.

Oh, yes, they will. After ages of use in a smoking hall. And after that they could be cleaned and restored to their initial brightness. Or I am seriously mistaken.

The fact is that everyone has their OLEDs burned out to some extent. I was using my RH10 almost always powered by the adapter for 8 months, and the burnout was quite visible. The easiest way to check this is to enter the menu, select Edit and look to the right, where track time is usually displayed. You'll see darker spots on the bright highlight exactly at the place of the digits. The display check in service mode shows a more grim picture. My oldest RH1 (6 months old) used only with batteries shows no burnout signs yet. But for the last 5 months it is played only half of the time I listen to music. The other half belongs to the second RH1 (5 months old), which is also absolutely healthy. One plays, the other charges, and the only place susceptible to burnout is the "battery" sign (neglecting the Charge meter, which is only displayed during the first hour of charging). But the RH910 will never have its display burn out, even if continuously powered by the adapter! Although I bought it for listening on the move.

Being a happy owner of two black RH1's, which really do give beautiful sound, but have nothing to do with portability, I could not resist the temptation of buying a 2-years old and completely unused vintage blue MZ-RH910. Yippee!!! A pictorial will hopefully follow. Along with a continuation of the topic about legacy recording (and probably other stuff) on second generation machines, which was killed by a Sony authorized service center, who destroyed my old RH10 (handed in for laser readjustment, which turned into a dead motherboard and a moneyback - probably someone there wanted the unit for themselves). The blue RH910 really smokes, and outperforms the RH10 in every way, starting from the non-burning-out display. Now I am a really happy man.

Chris G, I am mainly referring to music DVD-Video rips. There are lots of music DVD-Videos with 48 kHz LPCM stereo soundtracks, and these are good for ripping to 48 kHz MP3s. But some DVD-Audio discs also contain rippable 48 kHz (and above) tracks, which may be used for the same purpose. Unfortunately, most DVD-Audio discs are copy-protected in a serious way, thus preventing direct rips. There are ways to circumvent most copy protection methods though. storm shadow, yes I forgot the DH10P. It is a second generation unit, and thus hindered.

Any MP3s transferred to a Hi-MD disc by anything able to do this will play: 1. Hindered: by 2nd generation units (RH710, RH910, M10, RH10, M100). 2. As they should: by 3rd generation units (RH1, M200). Problem closed. Just a little addition. The 3rd generation units (RH1 and M200) are able to transfer AND play 48 kHz MP3s. And that with excellent quality! Absolutely perfect for DVD rips!

Yes, it should be 00 on the RH1.

Actually, the laser power required to read 1GB HiMDs is slightly less than the power required to read standard MDs (both legacy and HiMD formatted). But the difference is about 12% (2.50 mW vs. 2.85 mW).

If you have just installed SB, then you should restart your computer before it will be able to use Gracenote.

Well, actually the RH1 starts recording from the first available empty space. After the space ends, it moves to the next available empty space, etc. But it never overwrites any existing recording - it simply moves its laser to where there is empty space.

There is no way to play HMA files, even if you are be able to put them onto a HiMD disc again (it is impossible to restore pointers and indexes). This has nothing to do with copyright protection or DRM. This is just HiMD technology. Same as there's no way to play CDA files, after you copied them from a CD to your computer (not a perfect example, but still...).

SS may get really crazy if it is on a removable drive, and the drive is removed, and SS is started. Even without DRM...

As I've read somewhere in this forum, this GP product strongly outperforms genuine SONY NH-14WM's (when charged with the supplied charger, not in the unit). And there are no fakes for it that I know of, while fake NH-14WM's are abundant. For example, the ebay link you gave shows a definite fake. I know that becase the back side of the packaging states that it is "MADE IN JAPAN", while genuine NH-14WM's are manufactured in China. And the genuine one supplied with the RH10 is black (though there were genuine grey ones some time ago). And the plastic carrying case of the genuine one is quite a bit smaller and tighter. Another sign may only be discovered after unpacking - it says NH-14WM on the front side, but it says that it "requires a charger for a NH-10WM" on the back side (not visible when packed). The genuine battery says NW-14WM on both sides. This fake one will give you about 2-3 hours playback time, and will swell after a few charging cycles (hopefully not inside the unit).