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Hello fellow Minidisc lovers, I have a MZ-NH3D for sale. I currently have two of these and I can't use them both at the same time so I figured I'd let one go to be apart of someone elses collection. The unit comes with a Short USB cable, Cradle, Remote and AC Adapter. Everything works great and it has minor wear on it due to it being 13yrs old. It's a phenomenal player and it is considered a "Downloaoder" So you can put songs onto it, but you can't upload to a PC. It's a rare item and it was only released in Japan only. I'd be willing to take some offers on the device so feel free to PM me with questions or answers! Here is an enclosed video of all the devices I currently have. Just a disclaimer: I cannot part ways with the EH1 as it has sentimental attachment to a late friend I went to Japan with. Tried selling it earlier and just couldn't do it. So don't inquire about it. The RH1 is off limits too. MZ-N707 (Both of these devices are recently new. I have original packaging and the included car kit to go with them) MZ-NH1: This came from Holland, Netherlands! It is a EU spec so if you want this model you will need a power converter MZ-N10 Recently new as well. Original box and battery works great! (My favorite NetMD) MZ-M10: Mac Compatable recently new as well with original box. (Not shown in video as it didn't make it to my mailbox in time)
After Sphig's success with finding a method of replacing worn out batteries for the MZ-N10, MZ-E10 and MZ-1, I thought I'd look into a solution for those of us who have units that run on the almost impossible to replace LIP-4WM using the same inexpensive 3.7 volt battery sourced from eBay. The link for the battery is at the bottom of this post. Please only attempt this if you are confident in what you are doing and be sure not to short circuit either the old or new battery as this can be dangerous. I cannot be held responsible for damage to either you or your valuable MD equipment. For this you will need to sacrifice your old dead LIP-4WM as we will be using parts from it. 1. Carefully remove the sticker from the old battery. 2. Once the sticker is removed you will notice that the opposite face of the battery from the contacts is black and shiny. This is another sticker and you should also carefully remove this. It is very sticky so you may need to use the edge of a blade to lift the edge of it. 3. After removing the second sticker, you should see the silver metal casing of the battery itself. The battery is glued to the plastic casing and will need to be very carefully revoved without damaging the plastic back battery housing. I did this by gently flexing the end of the plastic casing furthest from the contacts away from the battery slightly and then sliding the end of a wide plastic cable tie in between the battery and casing to separate them. 4. Using a pair of scissors you should now be able to cut through the two metal tabs connecting the battery to the PCB with the battery contacts. Cut these as close to the battery as possible to leave as much of the metal as you can attacked to the circuit board in the platic casing. 5. You should now have the plastic back battery housing with just the contact PCB and its small plastic cover. Your new battery can now be placed in the plastic housing and secured using piece of very thin double sided tape or glue. 6. The wires from your new battery should now be soldered onto the tabs that the old battery was attached to, making sure that you get the polarity correct. You can see the correct way to connect the wires in the photos below (the negative connection is next to the diagonal cut off corner of the casing). 7. I then used a piece of regular sticky tape to go over the area where the wires and connections are just to keep it slightly more secure and less prone to accidental short circuiting of the new battery. I used thin sticky tape rather than electrical tape because there is very little room in the battery compartments of these MiniDisc units and electrical tape is a little too thick and causes fitting problems. 8. Finally I added a piece of sticky tape to the underside of the end of the battery housing that doesn't have the contacts and folded the end of it over to make a battery removal tab as shown in the photos, as the newly fitted battery is a very cosy fit (certainly in the NH1 I tested it with), and this gives you something to hold on to when removing the battery from the unit. You should now be good to go. As you can see from my pictures, my MZ-NH1 is now happily running on its new battery and I see no reason why this shouldn't be a success in any other MD unit that uses the LIP-4WM although I don't have anything other than the NH1 to test this for myself. The NH1 operates exactly as it should and charges fine from its charging cradle. I hope this helps any of you who, like me, are having problems with batteries that have seen better days. Good luck:) http://www.ebay.com/itm/181291308343?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT