tuemura

Ok! Nihon ni itara zetai ni ikimasu yo! Karaoke mo heta deskedo, tabako sui sugite, doko demo ishoni asibimasho!!!

Maybe in the future, i have two companies to run, i've stabelished a family and i can't go to Japan so soon. I have plans to go back to Japan as a tourist, meet with my friends that are still working there, i miss my japanese friends from SONY kohda, a bunch of crazy nuts

If de desire is to charge using the USB port without burning your PC USB ports out, you should take a look at this: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/process.html You can create a circuit to charge your device using a USB cable and two AA batteries, i think that is much more safe, effective and portable.

Ja hajimemashite! uemura de gozaimasu! Yoroshiku onegai shimasu! Please do me a favor, go to yoshinoya and eat a tokumori for me No, i dont have any TCD-5M around, i want a Hi-MD though

Hello Guitarfxr, thanks! Are you japanese? I lived 10 years at Aichi-ken moust of the time, I worked as repair engineer at SONY Kohda Okazaki-shi, Chiry Denshi at Chiryu-shi, Toshiba EMI at Fuji, i was doing hardware maintenace in the cassette recorder room for thouse enka tapes. Good times!

Hello MD Lovers I want to share something that i did with you guys, i have a bunch of MD's that i listen in my house but can't in my car, MD here in Brazil never catch up and is almoust impossible to find something for it. I have a few MD portable MD players, my first one was the SHARP MD-SS70 and by the way i also have the Kenwood DMC-F3 and is not the same from this page. So, to use my MZ-N610 in my car i needed a 12V(13.8V) to 3V adapter and i've build one with the LM-317 3-Terminal Adjustable Regulator, nothing new, searching the google you can find a bunch of circuits like this but this one was done from a MD lover to another. As you can see in the attached schematic R2/R3 are resposable for the regulation, if you see the datasheet the formula is Vout = 1.25(1 + R2/R1) in our case Vout = 1.25(1 + R2/R3) filling in the formula it will give a output of 3.33VDC, to make a precise 3V you need to change R2 to be 168 but this extra 0.33V are no important since the player has a DC-DC inside and is much more easier to find a 200 Ohms resistor. In the dataseet R1(R3) is rated as 240 Ohms (wrong), LM317 need a amount of operating current of 10mA, otherwise the operating current flows through R1 when there is no load and the output voltage wil rise and this is BAD. As the datasheet show the 240 Omhs give the LM317 an operating current of only 5ma , the LM317 need a 1.25v that is used for regulation, doing the math: 5ma x 240 Ohms = 1.20V But using a 120Ohm instead it give the LM317 a confortable 10ma needed to operate: 1.25 / 120 = 10.4ma 10.4 x 120 = 1.248V D2/D3 are used as protection to LM317 since there is a high capacitance at the output, D1 is used to prevent polarity inversion, the REG led is not there for free is used as extra load in case you do not connect nothing and to monitor the output of LM317. C2/C3/C4 is used to reduce voltage noise, since the car alternator noise is a "b*ch". There is no need to use a heatsink in a normal operation, you can charge your battery if you want, to do that you will need a smal aluminum heatsink because the LM317 will dissipate alot of heat because of the current consumption needed to charge the battery is high, when the LM317 is hot it will drop the output voltage and the extra 0.33V will not alow the Vout to drop below 3V. Enjoy 3VDC_for_MD.pdf