se325919

Hi, What is ATB? Thanks

I have a quantity of brand new laser pickup units for sale. These are in unopened boxes. I'm afraid I don't know what models they fit, but somebody might be able to shed some light on that. Here's a photo:

Oh blast, thats a bit pointless. Whats this method you mention which compresses the tracks twice? If they are in WAV (uncompressed) on the computer ready to be transferred, why would it it transcode them twice? I knew it could not upload to the PC in native normal SP format, but I believe it can upload normal SP files in WAV format. Haven't yet found out how to do that. Will be greatful of any pointers on that. At least that way I can get computer backups of some music and self-recorded files off old minidiscs which I recorded 10 and 11 years ago before I even thought of keeping computer backups. As for the Denon 1050. I bought it on eBay for £190 about 5 years ago. It is an excellent deck for accurately editing recordings due to its jog shuttle dial. I like the fact that you attach an ordinary PS/2 keyboard for titling as well. However I don't use it for recording for a few reasons: If it has digital record level adjustment, I can't find it. Level meters are always over keen. Recordings which did not peak OVER on Sony and Sharp decks frequently go into the red when played back on the Denon, so this does not give me confidence in its metering. I do not know how old the deck is, but expect it to have an old and inferior Atrac codec compared to my MDS-JE520 Sony deck. At work I use a Tascam MD350, which allows titling of disc and previously recorded tracks while in record mode. The Denon only allows titling of the track currently being recorded. The CAPS LOCK also works on the Tascam. On the Denon, you have to hold SHIFT for capitals. The Denon seems to be configured for an American keyboard or something certainly not British. A lot of the symbols are on different keys to the British keyboard and you have to guess until you find them. The Tascam however seems more suited to a British keyboard and most of the characters are where they say there are. Tascam is useless for editing though, with a horrible rehearsal procedure much inferior to the Denon or even the Sony. The Denon also has the annoying omission of not having a NAME COPY function in the edit menu which is useful on the Sony decks. I also keep a Kenwood portable (Sharp clone) to make use of its NAME STAMP function to

Hi, On reading about the MZ-RH1 being the last and most fully featured minidisc recorder available. Read that Sony had dropped all the OpenMG restrictions for the MZ-RH1 and allowed recording and uploading of all legacy formats. On the strengths of what I'd read, I have gone and bought one. I have literally hundreds of lossless CD albums downloaded from the likes of metalmadness.org and similar places, which I had been tediously burning on to a CD-RW then playing it back on a DVD player and recording to my Sony 520 deck with a coaxial digital connection. I then put the recorded MD into my Denon 1050 deck with keyboard and jog/shuttle dial, to clip off the first few frames of silence from each track, and title all the tracks manually. I am only interested in normal MD recordings, not HiMD or NetMD, because I want to listen to them on my ordinary portables and car MD players. I thought if I get the RH1, I could greatly speed up this process by preparing all the albums in WAV format first exactly how I want them on the computer, then transferring to the RH1 in normal SP mode on normal 74min discs of which I have a huge stock, hence the same end result as what I had been making with my previous procedure. As the computer could get the titles from Gracenote, that would even save me time with the titling. I have SonicStage 4.2 and Easy MD burner, but I can't work out how to transfer wav files to the RH1 to create a standard ordinary SP MD playable in ordinary MD players. It is supposed to support all legacy recording formats. Also how do you erase a standard MD in the RH1? Formatting it immediately converts it to HiMD format which I do not want.

I've really had it stripped down further today. Managed to get into the front side as well this time, the side which has the screen on it. I didn't dare go in there before. The rebooting syndrome seems to have no regualrity to it. When the machine is in pieces its almost impossible to make it do it, and even when it does, there doesnt seem to be any specific place you touch it that makes it do it. I have put it all back together now and can't make it do the rebooting thing at all now, but I haven't actually done anything more than take it to bits and put it back together. Lets see how long it lasts this time.

I have now performed the volume hack on it. Using the HOLD, then key sequence method had no effect on my DH10P, so I actually did have to use Neffi's method of shorting the service contacts on the main cirrcuit board, but it was very easy and worked a treat.

After spending 2 days in my pocket it is back to its old sensitive self. I will open it and find out what is causing this stupid problem with all DH10s

£65 too much. There is also a German seller on eBay who ships to UK. Works out about £46 but thats still a bit much when the single line ones are available for £10 or so.

Well first let me mention that this evening I found this partly pointless but interesting thread about opening a DH10P: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showt...h10+volume+hack If I had seen that thread yesterday I would have certainly got right into my DH10, but perhaps what I did was enough anyway. All I did was remove 5! of the 6 screws detailed in his diagrams. The reason for that being that I had not noticed the screw semi-hidden where the carry strap attaches to (it must have been that screw that prevented me from opening it). But I also removed the 2 screws on the USB connecter edge of the unit and the 1 accessible screw in the side of the loading mechanism visible above the battery door when the clamshell is open. I did not have any idea which side of the machine the fault may have been in so I was simply tying to get into any or both sides of the machine whereas the diagrams are just for getting into the lens side of the machine. After removing the screws I prised the sides apart on all edges as much as I could. The dial-side of the machine moved away from the loading housing by a very little amount only at the side where the screw had been removed. The lens side moved away quite a bit and with the lens cover open I could see that as I levered the casing away, the lens and flash were retracting (getting left behind) as the casing moved away from the internals. I prised it as much as I dared before getting scared that something might break. Obviously it was the remaining screw that was stopping it coming right off as per the diagrams. As I was at work and couldnt spend too much time I just eased it back together and put all the screws back, thinking I'll have another look later. Hey presto, it now works perfectly and I have done virtually nothing to it.

I had this exact same problem with my DH10P. Bought second hand for £85. Whenever you handled the player it rebooted itself. Some part of the casing seemed very sensitive to touch, and it sometimes took up to 20 attemps to get it to boot into photo taking mode, as you were holding it in your hand it just kept rebooting and coming back on in music mode even when the lens cover was open. Yesterday I took all the screws out of it and tried to get inside to see what the matter might be. I pulled and prised a bit on the case, but couldn't get into it and was scared of breaking it, so I eased it back together and replaced the screws. It now seems to be CURED! You can hold it and squeeze it and it stays on, no problem. Open the lens cover and take a photo straight away. I remember why I used to love it now, after not using it for a year due to its fault. Time will only tell if it stays as good as this. Oh by the way, battery life is still very poor. I think thats just the way DH10 are.

I have spotted several "double din" Japanese domestic market MD players for cars on eBay which have obviously come over in Japanese cars of some kind. As MD is not that popular in the UK, people remove these as soon as the cars come over and get rid of them on eBay. I have noticed that some of the "double din" ones have a 3.5mm jack input on the front as well as some of them having a CD player slot as well as a minidisc slot. These units are by Addzest (Clarion), Kenwood, Alpine etc. Never seen a Sony one with a 3.5mm input. Remember if you buy a Japanese car unit you won't be able to receive the full range of UK FM stations unless you fit a band expander device (which don't cost much anyway). Go to WWW.MINIDISC.ORG and browse equipment. Look at AUTOMOBILE section and check for any with 3.5mm inputs on the front.

macpingu, I have sent you a PM regarding your spare unit.

I have several minidisc units as well. I only have one HiMD unit and that is the MZ-DH10P (minidisc camera). It is by far the noisiest of the lot, even when playing non-fragmented audio discs. The battery saving method is to spin up the disc, read info then stop the disc. When buffer is depleated it spins up again to read more data. This noise is caused by constant spinning up then stopping of the disc on mine. When you transfer files over USB to or from a fragmented disc then you get the snow-scraper sound!

Many thanks to all who have replied so far. I am just chasing up a lead on a second hand one which may be for sale, but if that doesn't come substantially cheaper, then I'll be buying the Hughes Direct one. That is unless anyone here has one to sell?? I am also quite interested in obtaining a rm-mc40elk remote, but don't know where to find them nowadays.

I am in the market to purchase a RH1 or M200, but was wondering where best to purchase from. I am in the UK, and notice that Hughes Direct can sell me an RH1 for £185 delivered. No doubt that will be the UK model with the volume limitations. Anyone know if these limitations can be lifted? Obviously I would prefer it without the limitations but it wouldn't bother me that much that I would spend a lot more to get the non-EU version. Before I go ahead and buy, does anyone know of anywhere selling them at a better price than this?

I bought one of the China LIP-4WM last year from ebay for £2 or something. Yes it work, but used in the DH10P, you can barely take 6 or 7 photos before it is completely dead, and thats from fully charged. It is in the same condition as the original Sony battery that came with the unit. I don't know therefore whether it is fake or original because it looks absolutely identical in every way to the original one, including all label information. The only thing I know for sure about it is that its life is rubbish. Where can I get a decent one from? I like the sound of these Australian compatibles for 1/4 of Sony's price but where can I get them?