Mystyler
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Posts posted by Mystyler
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If it's really bad, $150US for a new optical block.
It could just be simple things like dust/dirt/hairs on the lens. Try a lens cleaner, or taking it apart to clean or just blowing some air into it.
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The digital cable isn't tightly kinked? Sharp twists can kill the signal.
Also, it could be a problem with your PS2 and CD. Some CDs refuse to be recorded from the PS2. This just occurs on a (or a select few) CD(s)?
I'm glad we can be of some use.
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The MT190 is a great recorder. No frills, honest and tough.
The "features" on Sony units I've found are either gimmicky, or next to useless, and the novelty soon wears off.
I find Sharps much easier to use, and they are the live recorder's choice. If you have $$$, then look at the MT770 and DR7. Despite the claims, the battery life is faily simialr to Sony units. Sharp also conduct more "real-world" tests for battery life, but both manufactures (esp Sony) like to exaggerate. So take ALL manufacturer's battery life figures with some salt.
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Sony is like that.
If you look on the R900 PCB, you'll see an USB terminal...:twisted:
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Well, if you want to do it the simple way, grab a non-MDLP (yep, NON-MDLP!) recorder and get that to erase your disc. It will display "TrProtec" for a second, but it ignores it and erases your disc for you.
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A Sharp unit would be the best for live recordings, and for general ease of use. Depending on your budget, check out these models, from cheapest to mortgage yer house:
MD-MT190
MD-MT770 (Or MT888, same thing)
MD-DR7 (or DR470, same thing)
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Try the Sharp MD-MT190.
Sharp are the brand to choose for live recordings, and for better sound, although the latter is subjective, of course.
And they are far easier to use.
If you have the cash, get the MT770 (MT888) or DR7 (DR470). I doubt you'll miss the extra cash once you see these babies.
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Spend a fortune? Not really...
You can buy first generation portable recorders with digital out on ebay for cheap, but they don't sound as good as newer portables (which lack digital out). If you hunt around you should be able to find mid-range decks with digital out (JE770, and the replacement JE780), but if you are in America this can be a bit harder. Again, ebay is an excellent source for such equipment, and you can always import new from www.audiocubes.com
I don't have any trouble with MDs, since all my friends have some MD gear.
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Well, you can put more than 30 tracks on MD, as it allows 254 tracks.
But I get ya.
I'm set with 15 or so.
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The Sharp MD-MT190 should do nicely.
All MDs can only upload in realtime, and in analogue, unless you get a deck with digital out or a first-generation recorder. As long as your Mac has a line in, you're set.
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Hey mo, all good this way.
That is the only thing I can think of - it is common in analogue recording. This happens on ALL CDs, not just burnt ones?
I don't think anything is wrong with your unit, it's probably just the noise being generated by your soundcard/CD player's out. Perhaps the best way to check is if you can get your hands on some decent 'phones and listen to the CD during the three seconds of silence.
Have fun dividing tracks in the meantime.
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Nope, I can't.
I have no idea what make or model your unit is...the best thing to do is contact the manufacturers via email.
If you can't do that, give us the make and model and I'll see what I can whip up.
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MONO isn't that bad in itself - it is exactly the same as SP, minus one channel.
However, the MS702 records in SP, or "stereo". It has MONO as well for twice the recording length, but no stereo LP modes.
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You also know that it doesn't have a remote input?
It's not a bad recorder by any means. It is designed to be knocked around a bit, and hence why it is heavier and larger than other units. It seems fine for your needs.
I can't answer MP3-->MD conversion. No NetMD for me.
It depends on several things, concerning LP4. If you use the supplied earbuds, then I seriously doubt you'll notice any difference at all. If you are using decent headphones, then you will notice that it is a bit below par, but comparable to 96kbps and 128kbps MP3s. Mainly people use it for voice recording, but some use digital CD dubs in LP4 for a disc to listen to on the move, where quality isn't important.
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Do you want it to play or record?
If you want it to record (and play), get the R50. If you just want it to play, get the E50.
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Mo man, is the three seconds of silence between tracks really "silent", or do you get a bit of analogue hiss/crackle? This can trip up units trying to sync from analogue sources, especially Sonys. The noise could come from the CD itself, or the line output you use to record from.
Have you flipped sync rec on? Or is that only for digital recordings? I'm not sure with this, Sony units are too complex for me.
Try it anyway if you haven't. Anyway, that's sure to be in the manual, but I'm not going to quote any page numbers, because I don't know. :twisted:
And get a new AC adapter - they are very handy to have.
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LP4 is useful if you are cruisin' the streets and need stacks of tunes, where quality doesn't count. Digital LP4 CD dubbs are great for that purpose, and can be very listenable. But, if you actually want to "listen" to your music and appreciate it, SP rips everything by a big margin. However, LP2 is a great compromise. Twice as many songs, but a lot of people cannot tell SP and LP2 apart.
But to answer your LP4 V 128kbps question, I don't really think there is a good answer. I cannot stand 128kbps MP3s, or LP4. But I have heard 128kbps MP3s that rip 320kbps files. It all depends on your encoder. SP really has no MP3 comparison (it's that good, 320kbps+++) and most consider LP2 at least 192kbps. Type-S ATRAC can enhance the playback of LP encoded files (both LP2 and LP4) on newer Sony models (or anything that uses Sony's latest ATRAC chips), so LP4 should sound even better.
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Don't worry about it being the "first" NetMD by Sharp. It is still as good as the N1, but it has been slightly downgraded to half the NetMD speeds of the Sony models. Same as all non-Sony NetMD models AFAIK. Probably a Sony imposed restriction.
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I thought the same thing too, but it turns out the Li-Ion battery at 370mAh and 3.6V ends up supplying more power than the 1400mAh 1.2V gumstick.
Can't remember exact details, but for the inquisitive, a thread exists around here detailing all that stuff.
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There are heaps of stores in Australia that fix MDs. Contact the maker of the MD unit, and ask for a list of service centres in your area.
It sounds like your friend busted some solder and connections when he dropped it. It is fixable yourself, if you know what you're doing.
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Although, wouldn't AAA batteries have a shorter life, thanks to decreased capacity?
You'd need a damn efficent unit, digital amp or not.
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Rewiring stuff ain't my forte. :wink:
I suppose, if you know what you're doing, and are confident. Perhaps the factory could wire one in for you?
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There was a long and detailed post about 24 V 16 bit ATRAC around here a while ago. If you won't, try a search. I'm too lazy to do so now.
What is !!!THE!!! BESTTTT MD out NOW!!!
in Minidisc
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That is the NetMD version of RCartledge's MT888.
Gorgeous or what?