woodeeee

the mod instructions linked from minidisc.org should be easily enough to follow. the hardest part of the mod would be to source the correct TOS optical emitter component. granted i havnt spent an awful lot of time researching, but i havnt been able to source the component in the UK as yet, no doubt if i dug a bit deeper it wouldnt be too hard to source though. The most important thing with regards to the soldering, do not solder any particular area for too long, as the heat emitted could quite easily damage other components on the PCB. -woodee

I know exactly what you mean about old recordings. Ive been scouring eBay for a while, waiting for that 'elusive' MD deck bargain to arise, but so far they have all seemed to have sold for just above what i'm prepared to pay, for an already out-dated medium. I've resisted buying a HiMD unit, on the basis that Sony still insist on inhibiting the transfer of private recordings. I bought a CMT-M333NT bookshelf, as I needed to update the 'house stereo' and it covers everything i need for the moment. I think i'll probably hold out for a while, and either invest in a M-Audio Flash Tracker in a few months (very nice peice of equipment for live recording) or give in a buy a MDLP-Optical-out capable deck sometime. I did notice a JE440 quite cheap a few days ago, it requires a relatively easy mod for optical out. -woodee

Check out this pile of faulty MD units for sale on eBay.co.uk! eBay.co.uk - LOT OF FAULTY SONY MINIDISC PLAYERS Might be of interest for the more technically minded MDCF members currently at £62.00 (its not my sale, just found it amusing and thought might be of use to a member here) -woodee

nice mics whats your setup? im using cmc2a's and the occasional set of omni's -woodee

definately sounds like you're using the mic-in, rather than the line-in i remember this happened to me when i first got my MDrecorder many years ago, not knowing that the optical in was actually a line in as well, i dint use the line-in for ages thinking it would break the optics if i stuck a jack in it oh how i rejoiced when i realised 'Line-in' really meant line-in as well

Hybrid33, the MZ-G750 is similar to my MZ-R700, except yours has a radio tuner see specs here: http://www.minidisc.org/part_Sony_MZ-G750.html neither are NetMD capable. For your computer to 'recognise' your MD it has to be a NetMD unit, connected via a USB cable. -woode

Thanx for your words greenmachine. The reason for the preamp would be for use with the MP3 Recorder, as the signal from the BaB isn't loud enough, from the BaB to Line-in. Hence: Omnis -> BaB -> Amp -> MP3 Recorder Line-in. My current setup works fine with my MD, both through Line-in for concerts, and through Mic-in for nature sounds, which are suprisingly clear. In the case of MD, I was going to try: Omnis -> BaB -> Amp -> MD Line-in (for nature recordings). cheers for the circuit diag. It'll be my next build project as i've just finished my BaB/Mic mods. -woode

Hey guys, i was wondering if someone could post an amp/boost box circuit? Primary use would for testing purposes/live recordings, and secondly because im trying to make use of an MP3 Recorder ive come across. Setup so far: MZ-R700 (still goin' strong after all this time ) BaB with Bass roll-off Stereo Omni's (-44 dB +3dbB sensitivity / 20 to 20,000 hz) SP-CMC-2A Card's Main reason im asking for a boost circuit is because I tested Omni's -> BaB -> MP3 Recorder Line-in, and although it recorded ok, it was well below normal levels compared to what it would have been, if I had used my MD. Hence i'm wanting to try and boost the signal entering the MP3's Line-in: Omni's -> BaB and/or BoB -> MP3 Rec. The MP3 Rec. is ideal for recording lectures via its built in mic, direct MP3 encoding, so I thought i'd try some live recordings directly encoded to MP3 at 192kbps/320kbps. greatful for some tips on cicruitary

thanx A440, i settled for the SP's SP-CMC-2A card's should be with me in a week, got a couple of concerts coming up, so il post a short review of their performance, for any who's interested

thanx guys well i had a flick through SP's card's, and to be honest i cant really tell the difference between most of them i leaning towards SP-CMC-2A because it has a slightly wider frequency range than the others, buts thats the only reason i could find any tips?

thanks for your advice and attention not knowing a huge amount, but 'enough to get by' about mics, i bought thse mics last summer: http://www.giant-squid-audio-lab.com/gs/gs...redbattery1.htm which for there original purposes, worked fantastic, and produced amazing sound reproduction from tropical rainforest recordings an example situation id like to record with less ambient sound is: at an outdoor concert, 100 ft from the stage into MD (ie as little audience input as possible) i did look into cardioids or hypercardioids a few weeks ago, but owing to a lack of finances i put off purchasing a set. and alas, my memory isnt what it used to be and have seemed to have forgotten all that i had learnt about mics

Hey, i bought a set of high quality stereo mics last year, which did me proud at recording live concerts and clubs etc however, i want to move up the ladder a rung and buy some nice shotgun mics for concert recordings, as my previous mics recorded too much ambient sound, preferably i could use them for recording lectures in a moderately sized room (50ft) i spied this batbox over at SP: http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/...?item=SP-SPSB-6 pic: http://www.soundprofessionals.com/mas_asse...l/SP-SPSB-6.jpg which i think is a good choice but im having trouble choosing suitable shotguns, up to a max $ of $300 a pair (batbox excluded) can anyone give me some advice obviously i dont want huge shotguns, also the lecture-recording idea isnt topmost priority as i can use my current mics sufficiently for that. a balance between size and quality/cost would be best thanx in advance ps loving the new look forums!havnt been here in a couple of months

ah, the hack this brings back memories my r700 still has no charge-battery function

does this cure the charge problem? or is it just another way of ressetting the eeprom? coz resetting the eeprom doesnt seem to fix the problem... ? :wacky:

unit may have over heated if left in direct sunlight