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We had a brief discussion about coaxial SPDIF switches >> here <<. My experimental board got finally put together, and I have been testing it since a few days, with my 930, 940 and JA20 hooked up. I have attached the project files [projectfiles.zip] for those who want to build their own. The schematic is very simple, and can easily be developed further, like when someone needs more inputs, or wants to change channels with push buttons or IR remote instead, etc. Components cost about 12 Euro, plus the "soapbox", that is just a cheap small project box, to protect the board. I did not feel making a fancy techno looking chassis, even the rotating knob is from a salvaged 510S. The device has three SPDIF inputs and one SPDIF output (that is galvanically isolated, to avoid ground loops). It works from a 5...6V DC adapter. One LED is lit when the box is powered up, three others are lit respectively to the actually selected input channel, also matched by the position of the rotary switch (*). I chose a 4 throw switch, and used the leftmost position for muting the output (only the power on led is lit) - can be handy when swapping cables, for example. (*) One comment on the board: depending on the actual rotary switch model, switching order can be different. I had to tinker the board after it turned out, that the switch I bought worked the opposite way. In practice it meant I had to swap the connections of LED1/LED3 to pin C2/C4, also, ground pin B4 instead of B2.

Hello, carrying on from my post a while ago - thanks for your help - I now have an MZ-R30. Everything appears to be working fine, except that the pause button is very hit and miss, and the display and mode buttons only work some of the time, too. Occasionally the pause button will work with a light press, but most of the time it only works when pressed quite hard (which I obviously don't keep doing). I see that this kind of thing is mentioned in the Minidisc.org FAQ: "My portable MZ-R35 Minidisc player/recorder is 2 years old and works very well, except for the display and mode buttons." "The problem you mentioned is very common with the MZ-R35 and with the MZ-R30. In most cases it is not because of direct damage to the 2 keys you mentioned. It is related to the 3 keys mounted on the right side of the recording switch (the red one). In some cases the only problem is with the display and mode keys." Does anybody know what that actually means - what is usually wrong with the pause/vol-/vol+ buttons? I have opened the recorder and had a look, and at a glance everything looks okay. If I press the pause button directly with my finger it works better but still not perfectly, and if I short the button's pins where they're soldered to the board, it is still only works sometimes. The volume ones work easily and consistently if I do the same thing with them. That makes me wonder if it's more to do with the solder connections either on the button or the side of the board, or something worse. I thought it would be a good idea to ask here first before I do anything, since you guys know what you're doing.