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Broken battery lid (MZ-RH10) :(

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gerbiili71

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Hi,

An unfortunate and stupid thing happened to me while changing a battery for my MZ-RH10. The bloody lid just broke loose and one of those plastic strips that hold the lid on it's place fell out too. I sent a user support request for Sony to send me a replacement part (X-2055-437-1 - thanks for providing the service manual, minidisc.org :)) - don't know whether the part is available or not. :(

Anyway, be careful when you open the battery lid on a MZ-RH10, it seems to be pretty fragile thing... :ok:

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Hi,

An unfortunate and stupid thing happened to me while changing a battery for my MZ-RH10. The bloody lid just broke loose and one of those plastic strips that hold the lid on it's place fell out too. I sent a user support request for Sony to send me a replacement part (X-2055-437-1 - thanks for providing the service manual, minidisc.org :)) - don't know whether the part is available or not. :(

Anyway, be careful when you open the battery lid on a MZ-RH10, it seems to be pretty fragile thing... :ok:

is the unit still under warranty? maybe u can send it in and they get fixed for u free if it is under warranty.

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No warranty. The VAT 0% price for the lid is 5.25€ + 20€ for p&p and the 22% VAT in Finland. :(

Before I sold my RH10 and my battery door was getting more and more loose, I just used a small piece of electric tape to keep it secure... if your door can still FIT the slot and hold a battery in, you might want to try this in the meantime.

I would make a small FOLD at the end of the tape so it could be easily peeled back if I needed to swap out a battery.

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Before I sold my RH10 and my battery door was getting more and more loose, I just used a small piece of electric tape to keep it secure... if your door can still FIT the slot and hold a battery in, you might want to try this in the meantime.

I would make a small FOLD at the end of the tape so it could be easily peeled back if I needed to swap out a battery.

The RH10 was unfortunately a HUGE disappointment --it could have been almost an "IPOD" killer had it been built more ruggedly, made slightly thinner and had provision for a line out.

The screen was great for play back and the unit although fat looked quite "snazzy". The cheap case however is a real dog as it chips and scratches very easily.

I had the broken battery problem TWICE but you can get a repair fairly easily as the previous poster points out. I'd suggest you don't even THINK of opening the battery door once you've got it repaired. The battery can be charged and discharged a lot of times before you really need a new battery --I'd think the unit is likely to get broken long before you wear out the battery.

I've since got rid of mine and am very happy with the RH1's I use instead. A far superior model all round.

Cheers

-K

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The RH10 was ... ... could have been almost an "IPOD" killer had it been built more ruggedly, made slightly thinner and had provision for a line out.

... ...

I've since got rid of mine and am very happy with the RH1's I use instead. A far superior model all round.

Cheers

-K

Would you like to elaborate a bit on why you consider a proper <Line Out> to be important. The headphone output isn't that far away, or am I making some wrong assumptions?

(I've found the OLED display on my RH10 quite useless in normal daylight, but as you indicate, quite good for playback.)

Cheers,

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Would you like to elaborate a bit on why you consider a proper <Line Out> to be important. The headphone output isn't that far away, or am I making some wrong assumptions?

(I've found the OLED display on my RH10 quite useless in normal daylight, but as you indicate, quite good for playback.)

Cheers,

Using a Line out ensures that the signal hasn't been processed by any of the "Sound options" such custom 1, custom 2, studio etc etc. You ususally get a much cleaner sound going into your target output device.

The output is usually higher as well than headphone output -- especially if you have one of those European limited output (2mw) models. You can hack most models to increase the output to 5MW but you are adding another stage of amplification when using headphone output.

Cheers

-K

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Using a Line out ensures that the signal hasn't been processed by any of the "Sound options" such custom 1, custom 2, studio etc etc. You ususally get a much cleaner sound going into your target output device.

The output is usually higher as well than headphone output -- especially if you have one of those European limited output (2mw) models. You can hack most models to increase the output to 5MW but you are adding another stage of amplification when using headphone output.

Cheers

-K

Thanks for the clarification.

I've never used any of the equalisers so completely forgot what impact they could have on the ear-phone output. As for me, I'm now asymmetrically deaf so feed the output of my MD players into a SoundProfessionals headbanger amplifier with an attenuator lowering the input of the left channel. Works quite well (apart from the increase in bulk and cabling!), and I can probably hear better stereo via 'phones than naturally with distorting hearing aid.

Years ago, my hearing was good enough for me to sit on a HiFi listening panel! Not anymore. (And it's hereditary, not induced by rock concerts etc.)

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