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I might be able to take a look

There's another topic here about brand new batteries that can be adapted to replace the guts of a LIP-4WM. They cost about $5. I did it and installed one in my NH1.... and it worked. However you ARE stuck with the charger for the NH1. The cable for this is the same as that for the NW-HD3 and you might be able to get one of those and share the cable (you or someone else already asked about the cable, IIRC). The reason I used the word "precious" was that when they are so beautifully encoded (I have hundreds of hours of LP4 recorded which I play through bluetooth into my car setup) that re-encoding them is rarely a good option. And the F887 has bluetooth (it's a vanilla Android device except for the sound support). And it will play all the new HD formats as well as "uncompressed" CD format and all that.

If you want to play your precious ATRAC files (assuming you have them) then you might want to look at NW-F887 instead (or 885/886). Note that NW-F887 is not the same as NWZ-F887. The latter lacks support for ATRAC. The former is only available as a Japanese import.

Great tale. I am away from the computer a lot at the moment so didn't comment before. I will now, though. This sort of fracture is why people are using (not necessarily buying!) 3-D printers. Not that I am planning to, but every time some piece of equipment is rendered inoperable by a small mass-manufactured piece of plastic getting bust, I think about it.

OK, fair enough.

Are you sure about this? It seems to me that the one time I had this problem with a brand new functioning optical pickup that as soon as the right number (from the pickup) was inscribed in the IOP setting, that the drive commenced working. But my recollection may be faulty, or I may have misunderstood something. And it was a different model with a different mechanism and BD board. If there are problems with the actual laser power, I suspect the IOP would need a LOWER value for the servo system to respond correctly without calibration, so my first thought would be to leave everything as is and decrease the IOP by one or two (of the smallest digit). You may be surprised.

What on earth is POT? I would be adjusting the IOP value not ldpwr right now. Even a couple of clicks can make a difference. Clearly you need a LPM to make this simple.

It seems to be the optional component (see the AU bus connector!) of the TC-TX1. It appears that this combination was marketed under several different model numbers, namely HCD-T1, TX-TC1, SA-N1, SA-N11. The base system (without MD) comprises CD, Tape, Radio. So this is one of the earliest bookshelf all-in-one models to add an MD deck, I think.

It's not just this site. We had trouble today with passwords on another site entirely. Try turning off Firefox Synch.

More likely the specific CD or something about the CD player. Sorry.

I agree. I just rechecked and with a proper input connected there is no sign of life from EITHER transmitter. So that would suggest the least number of moves would be to start by replacing the receiver. Now the bad news, I only have transmitters. So I will have to wait until I can get a receiver. Not to act like a spoiled kid, really I would like to get the ones with no lug on top. Thanks. This was exactly the sort of handholding I needed.

16.5 mA provided I read the DVM correctly. LED is lit.

I'm so sorry to have you spinning your wheels over my error, look at my update.

I have some transmitters (and at least one receiver or receiver/transmitter) almost identical to the ones you show. The problem with all is the largeish lug on the top of them which won't fit nicely inside the case. Probably I used 9V by mistake, then, I really don't remember. The damage was done before I realised. I was quite ticked when I realised that swapping the powersupplies (I purchased a couple of similar things and they arrived that day) didn't work. Yes, I know it was my own silly fault. I measure 9 ohms 500 ohms across R1, but of course that's without removing it hahaha.I cannot read the writing either but it sounds like if blown I need to remove it and substitute a "normal" resistor between (?) the plus of the diode and ground, correct? Or is it still one or more of the modules got blown? Update: I was using the MM before my first coffee. Sorry. So your 470 is right on the money. And there are no non-infinite resistances between the pins of any of the TosLink devices. Or C1.

A few months ago I paid rather too much for a device no one else could sell me but whoever it was on eBay, to take one optical signal and ACTIVELY (as opposed to the passive type of non-powered gadget) split the signal into 2 optical outputs. Unfortunately, I managed to connect it to the wrong power supply (never mind why, but it never occurred to me that the difference between 5V and 6V would make a difference) and after working perfectly when it first arrived, is essentially useless. The LED you see in the pic comes on but rather dimly. As there appear to be only two components, R1 and C1, could some electronics whiz please tell me likely values. You can see the circuit is blindingly simple. Or did I blow up the diode itself? Your suggestions appreciated. Thank you

One more tidbit. In the situation you describe it may be despite contrary inferences that you actually need to turn the read power exactly one notch DOWN. However he should start by looking at the iop number written on the op. Good luck!

I just had my E909 refuse to spin up, not having been used for a while. Is it possible that the motor simply is sticky and the unit won't spin up?

Aha, the prerecorded disk is completely different technology from the MO disks. All pointing towards needing to adjust. However the bad display brightness is very suspicious, coming at the same time as a MO read-write failure. I assume a. the disk gets hot when you succeed in playing it b. if you run so that you can see the overwrite head you will see a lot of oscillation (of the head). These are signs you need to do a servo adjustment (of the laser power and maybe some other things, though usually not unless the system has been physically abused) in my extremely limited experience. These decks are all built like tanks, however once they get slightly off, there is a danger in running the motorbike completely off the road, if you see what I mean. That wobble will do it.

Ha! ( I almost typed "HA!") That might be simple to fix. Try running for 5 minutes without the stepdown? I recall the same situation with my PX3, not realising it was supposed to be on 100V when I first got it. However it was indeed the laser power that needed adjusting. Before I a. fixed the BD (minidisk) unit b. got a stepdown to 100V it did used to get very hot. Maybe you can get proactive and start measuring power supply voltages when it's turned on? Is it possible that your stepdown is not delivering 100VAC? I wonder what it is that all your units seem to go this way? What's the mains voltage in Reading, MA? Stephen

That's a very appealing design. I still don't much like the idea of randomly scraping my OP ;( So probably it's heating up. That's definitely a symptom. You may find it runs better with the lid off, hahaha. You will probably see the OP vibrating as it tries to seek. However the likelihood is it's the laser power at this point. You can certainly haul out the BD unit and check the mechanism to see if there is significant (ie different from normal) resistance to seeking using your fingers to turn the stepper motor manually (with the power off of course). Sadly I cannot help as the drive appears (assuming it's the same as the JA20ES non-Japan model) to be MDM-6A and I do not have a machine with that drive in it. Is that because of the way the disks are loaded? In which case maybe the JA333ES you have may be compatible. You could start swapping bits to see what is actually wrong. They both have the "tray" type of mechanism, correct?

How can a single disk both clean and be read? I have never had one of these so I am speaking from sublime ignorance. What I have seen for CDs is that there is some kind of brush or abrasive rotating CD-shaped material which one moistens. A truly horrible thing to do to one's optical pickup IMO. If seconds are ticking off it probably means timing information is available but that is NOT the same as actually reading a real MD. I *think* that would mean it is not a mechanical problem. Another thought.... does it read a prerecorded MD? This is a less demanding test requiring less adjustment prior to its execution. If not it may well be mechanical problems as per Jim. C13 usually means that IOP is out of whack with the capability of the laser. Fastest way to fix is with a laser power meter (assuming there are no mechanical difficulties). Don't even think about trying to write anything for the moment - the write adjustment is much coarser than the read adjustment, and recording always includes reading back something that was written, so you can have a situation where you wrote something perfectly but the operation cannot complete because in order to write the TOC, it must read it first (after the recording but before the playback, if you see what I mean). If you don't have a LPM the best advice I can give is to open up the drive and see if the IOP number is written by hand in blue ink on the paper stuck to the top of the laser. It's no use trying to get at the one that's printed and stuck to the bottom of the pickup - that means you take the whole thing apart so now you pretty much need to give the unit the Full Monty. But generally someone will have tested the laser and written on it the IOP value (unfortunately for you, without the decimal point but I am sure you can divide by 10 or 100, should be obvious). Now you need to get in to the service mode and see if that is close to the number for IOP that's been set. Maybe it's time to follow Gyula's instructions and build your own LPM !?

For reasons which we don't yet understand, this board is currently sending out emails which will most often (but not always) be rejected by your destination email server as being "unverified". This means that 9 out of 10 people will not be able to register until this problem has been resolved. So sorry for the inconvenience!

I wasn't suggesting that your enthusiasm need to be curbed. Sorry for any misunderstanding.

Haha this is the trendy phrase used in comedy shows such as "Curb your Enthusiasm" - Too Much Information.. I see now. I just never worked with large numbers of MP3 files and ATRAC files always naturally GROUPed themselves into albums owing to the nature of MD. The other way to do it is, as kalkie says: view all tracks, sort by file path, select all the ones you want, and set the artist or album as desired. This requires you to find the magic menu that shows the file path in displays, but it's standard WinStuff. Assuming that works with an MP3 file in the SS database. I don't see why it shouldn't.

Doesn't it amount to the same thing if you: 1. Import the tracks in "Album" view. 2. Change the "artist" for the album either to <nothing at all> or some suitable general descriptor? When I do this it always asks me if I want to change all the tracks in the album to have the same metadata or not, IIRC. My point is that by doing it from the list of albums rather than the list of tracks, you don't have to retype anything.