Jump to content

sfbp

Administrators
  • Posts

    6,575
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    11

sfbp last won the day on January 25 2011

sfbp had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About sfbp

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vancouver
  • Interests
    Bridge, music, computers

Recent Profile Visitors

113,295 profile views

sfbp's Achievements

  1. Not a word from Rick, sadly. Maybe he came back in one of those extended down periods.....
  2. I bow to your electronics knowledge. I do remember Jim explaining how the various different versions of (at least) the PX3 were only separated by something he called a "backstrap" - the idea being that to get to/from 100V/120V there was a sort of feedback loop where some (7% IIRC) of the (transformed) voltage is either added or subtracted to the AC before conversion to DC. In the confined space of the bookshelf models perhaps this makes more difference but I definitely remember both the drive and MDs removed from it getting warm as a sign that the drive was about to fail. You're right, it could be coincidence but ever since I have made sure to run 100V models on one of the transformers (rather than attempting to modify the circuit since we never have succeeded in finding any Japanese-language service manuals at all that definitively show the internal arrangement) intended for Japanese-market products. Snake oil? Perhaps but I don't think so and there are those here who may have experience with the 100V converters. Sounds quite reasonable to me that a misadjusted MD laser mechanism might be a sort of heating feedback loop that cooked the device (slowly).
  3. Well I definitely saw overheating on my 100V (Japan model) CMT-PX3 which has an MDM-7X2A, when plugged into 120V. When it (the drive not the whole machine) came back from Jim, I made sure to get a 100V converter and it's worked a treat ever since. I know there can be variations in mains voltages, when I was at school we had our own generator and my Tandberg tape deck just about died when the voltage went to 190V on a Sunday afternoon (everyone was trying to use electrical power).
  4. Not meaning to sidetrack the conversation but jumping in here - "temperamental" can come from over heating. Overheating can come from incorrect adjustment. "just" (how I hate that word) a thought.
  5. This sounds like one for Kevin. The service manual is here. Be careful!
  6. Exactly which MD player do you have? Most of them do not play MP3 very well. The exception is the MZ-RH1 (same is MZ-M200) and possibly the MZ-DH710. The DH710 looks like it is the last model Sony designed and marketed and therefore may have the improvements in sound quality as the MZ-RH1. Even then I'm not sure it is any better than the other "second generation" MD players such as MZ-RH10/910 and the various player-only models. On those (second-generation) devices, the direct MP3 support is not considered to be very good. So your best bet is conversion of MP3 to the highest rate intermediate format you can find. The free Sony-supplied MP3ConversionTool is my recommendation for this. Do not go via WAV files using a converter, you will likely get horrible sound. If you have a really good OTHER system that plays MP3s you might try playing those back into a Sony device, but all the usual warnings (caveats) apply such as getting gold-plated analog cables (of course if your source system playing the MP3 will somehow play S/PDIF digital, then you're laughing). Another relatively reliable way of conversion from (and to) MP3 is Sound Forge 9 or later. This comes bundled with a lot of digital players by Sony, and is part of Sony Studio Platinum (I may have got the name wrong). You can play around with lots of options and try to get the best sound balance. It doesn't work in batch mode, but there is a (very expensive) Pro version that (allegedly) does this in an automated way. Stephen
  7. 'Tis a testament to the durability of (most) minidiscs that there aren't enough to act as coasters. I know that used to be the epithet of choice for a dead "floppy" disk (of course they weren't floppy once the size was about the same as MD).
  8. Those TDKs are among my absolute favourites.
  9. I was wondering if they had discovered perpetual motion, actually...... but didn't want to spoil things by my scepticism. Bought some HQRP (not labelled 3000mAh) a while back and they seemed to be ok but not DOUBLE the capacity. Beware purveyors of snake oil, I guess.
  10. Hi guys You may see this behaviour with a lot of sites, as this is what you may observe in the event that SIF changes its address whilst you are browsing or between visits (the second of which you attempt to resume earler acivity). I've been seeing it a lot lately with things like eBay, paypal. I think (but not sure) that this is a consequence of sites being in the cloud. Not sure how some DNS get around this; in my case it's clear that my own local DNS server doesn't signal my browser of the change, so I end up doing "ipconfig /flushdns".
  11. I bet y'all forgot about this My original plan was to get the MDM7 fixed myself (the usual belt problem but I verified that it plays and records MDs just fine), but it looks like I won't make it to Sunny Surrey until at least September. It's way too heavy and too much of a nuisance to be posted, but if you UK-resident MD gurus want it, it could be picked up. I saw it and it's in better condition than the unit I have here at home (which is incidentally a JPN version). The CD was very slow to play but it was stored somewhere quite cold and I bet just taking inside would make quite a difference. It even has the tape deck that goes with it, TX-MD595, complete with the interface box. Currently we don't know where the remote is. But it's pretty clean, and apart from the belt and/or possible CD issues (I was able to play a CD after it warmed up), is in excellent shape. (*Note: there's also an MDS-S707 which I didn't think was of any particular interest. But the speakers and tape deck go with the main unit, they should stick together, I think).
  12. Yeah, it's dated to expire on something like 31/Oct if you take a look. There must be a setting......... https://www.technipages.com/google-chrome-bypass-your-connection-is-not-private-message
  13. I think I may be the one that (indirectly) caused this. I am the proud possessor of its previous incarnation which is a simple 1->2 Toslink splitter, designed and built by Kevin. The idea of adding the direct (coax) out is great, too. But I am happy with my gizmo regardless.
  14. Today after many weeks of waiting, I finally got a battery for my NW-ZX1 (as opposed to NWZ-ZX1, which does not speak ATRAC). With quite a fight to get it in the case (it was a teeny bit oversize) and a considerable effort to get the terminals correctly soldered (all the while wondering if I was going to melt the circuitry to death), it finally came up and started charging. They sold me a slightly higher capacity battery than the original, which is excellent, and it only cost about $20. Apart from the original one (the unit was second hand) this must be the third or fourth battery I tried. None of the previous ones would both charge and hold a charge reliably. Finally (touch wood) something that functions as it is supposed to. I think the key is the third lead (white) which obviously passes sensor information (to or from, I've no idea) between device and battery, as I read somewhere that the different versions reported different information. Be that as it may, this one followed a normal charging pattern and seem to work.
×
×
  • Create New...