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About TygerBrightly

  • Birthday 05/18/1954

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    Aiwa AM-F70, Technics SJ-MD150 and Sony MZ-N710

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  1. On second thoughts, I could use a 9v battery for the MD units (with a resistor of course). Would it give longer recording times using a 9v battery, and what is the optimum resistor value if it is viable, please? Many thanks, Tygerbrightly
  2. Thank you so much for your reply, and the excellent information within. It is probable my MD units' chewing gum batteries are a bit useless, then, as I suspected, and I should perhaps use the extra battery pack certainly when recording. It is a relief to hear that the mics do not drain the battery QUOTE Incidentally, the extra power packs I have made are a 2.5mm power jack soldered to an open lead 9v battery clip and then attached to twin AA or twin D cell battery boxes which have the 9v connections on top. I used a white tippex pen to write "3v only" on top of the battery snap clip, so a 9v battery is not inadvertently attached. The clips I got were the type that enclose the connections, so they cannot short in a pocket or case. Why not just use a 9V battery? most electret mics can handle up to approx. 10V. ENDQUOTE The twin AA or D cell power packs are meant for the MD unit (3v) only; I use a 9v battery for the mics' battery box That is why I have marked the top of the 9v clip, so I don't inadvertently plug 9v into the Minidisc! Many thanks, TygerBrightly
  3. A couple of questions, if I may please? When using binaurals on my MD, I find that the batteries drain rather quickly (I know they use power from the mic input). My chewing gum batteries may as well be made from chewing gum, they have faded, somewhat so I tend to use them with the AA battery buddy pack. If I use the home built battery box as designed by GM, the power is supplied, so the MD unit lasts longer but, the sound is somewhat different. There is a nice brightness when the mics are used on their own, but it tends to change with the BB added (still connected to the mic input). I wish to use the system for background sound for Video recording presence ambience and general wildlife birdsong and stuff, so the full spectrum (including bright treble) would be useful. I wonder if it is due to the rating of the capacitors in the BB? 1) Is it worth building another battery box with different specs for general work, or should I just use the (little bulkier) 2xAA extra power pack I made, plugged into the 3v socket (or the even bulkier 2xD cell unit)? In the BBs I made, I have used so far 47uf 10v, 22uf 16v, 100uf 25v and 33uf 50v caps, but have the following pairs in my bits, if any would be more suitable: 47uf 25v, 1uf 100v, 4.7uf 63v and a 2.2uf 50v pair of one light and one dark blue(?) 2) In making a mono BB for a single mic capsule, would you suggest different values of resistor/capacitors, as stereo separation is no longer an issue? Incidentally, the extra power packs I have made are a 2.5mm power jack soldered to an open lead 9v battery clip and then attached to twin AA or twin D cell battery boxes which have the 9v connections on top. I used a white tippex pen to write "3v only" on top of the battery snap clip, so a 9v battery is not inadvertently attached. The clips I got were the type that enclose the connections, so they cannot short in a pocket or case. So sorry about the double post. I tried to edit it and it sent a duplicate instead of the edited original. How can I delete the second one please?
  4. Hi! Thanks first of all to Greenmachine for the info and instructions on building the mics and battery boxes. I have built a number of mics, including the binaural set and an element in a 3.5mm jack, which is ideal for turning the MD into a dictaphone, but can be used plugged into the BB and you have a holder like a pistol grip by the 9v battery, with sufficient lead to not pick up the MD sound! I built the BB box directly onto a broken top of the 9v battery (without circuit board) and even after covering it with hot melt glue, it is really quite small. As a further touch, I connected it to the battery then wrapped two turns of insulating tape round the top of the battery, covering with hot melt glue to make a shield. When it set and cooled I removed the battery and trimmed the "hood". Also, bang up to date in 2008, (I am not surprised this thread has lasted so long with such excellent content :-)) try eBay for Panasonic elements in the UK, I got 5 WM61A elements for £9.95 inc postage. (£18 for 10). Hope this helps, and thanks again for such innovative ideas! TygerBrightly
  5. Another option is the stuff used to clean caravan window scratches (comes in a tube) and if you know someone with a caravan, (or even a light aircraft!) chances are they have some or know a mate who does. A tiny amount is all that's needed and I used it on my vintage caravan's windows and also my terribly scratched watch. It is a polish too, so ends up gleaming
  6. Hi, AS luck has it, I bought an MZR900 from eBay which I got yesterday, and the guy made great praise of the add on AA battery holder, as "the other was useless". When I got the unit home (I drove to pick it up) I realised after some time it did not charge (same symptoms as yours). I actually got it for the remote, as my M710 remote is shot, so tried it with the battery from the 710, which was fully charged. No joy. This morning I looked in the "door" that you open for the gumstick insertion, and noticed there is a little tab (very tiny) which I thought maybe if I carefully popped it up a bit it would make better contact... It did! My 900 is charging as we speak, and works fine with the gumstick battery charged up from the 710. I now have two working MD units with interchangable batteries and a remote between them :-) Hope this helps.
  7. Hi, I bought a Sony MZ-710 off eBay, and as I was bidding on various MDs (Won this one!) got confused as to the model I have, and hacked it :-( My eyesight is not too brilliant, and I honestly thought it was a 707. I got into service mode fine, and did the deeds, but now I have only two menus, USEFUL and OPTION with only four total things I can do. PlayInfo, SpeedCrtl, EarGrd and PowerMode. The unit plays ok etc, but I would like to get it back, problem is, it won't let me back in service mode. I don't have a remote control, as it had water in it sometime (prolly got caught in the rain) and was totally screwed, so trying to enter through that is out of the question. I have tried using Group as shift, cancel as shift and am at the end of my tether :-( I have tried tapping in the sequence slowly and quickly and all to no avail. Any ideas would be gratefully received... Many thanks in advance
  8. Setting One (0 61) number is 20 (can change to 70 for the hack) Setting two (0 62) number is 64 (can change to 75 for the hack) I cannot get back in to my unit, as I did the values for the 707 and I have a 710 Cannot get into the service menu. I wonder if the above poster's friend may have the same problem? I tried using both vol- and later the group button as shift to put the sequence in, but it is not getting into the service menu. TygerBrightly
  9. Thank you. My eyes are bleeding from trying to find the answer to this :-) At least I have the original codes for 0 61 and 0 62 which are 20 and 64 respectively, found whilst going through 710 threads. I just cannot get back into the service menu. Someone even had the luck to get in by using the remote, but my remote has non-standard button actions and was not in proper working condition when I got it (tried cleaning contacts, so it's not that)... I have tried using group button as shift and also the vol- button, which worked initially. The machine still plays, and play FF RW and stop/pause work, it just has no real menu stuff... I haven't tried recording with it yet. Tyger...not feeling so Brightly
  10. Oh my god :-( I bought my MD from the internet, and thought I'd try this hack. Got into service mode and did all the bits, then found that there were only two menus available USEFUL containing PlayInfo and SpeedCtrl and OPTION containing Earguard and PowerMode. Tried to get back into service mode, and then it dropped..... I've got a MZ-N710.... It showed the version 1.5 I think when it first worked and it still plays, but I can not get sound menu or anything else. I memorised the numbers A0 for example, but when panic set in, I forgot them :-( It won't get me back into the service menu, even using the group button as the "shift" key :-( Hoping someone may be able to help a very new "minidiscer" get his shiny (if a little scratched) blue N710 (I'll NEVER forget that number now... ) working again ...please? TygerB
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