RockyJ

babies are good but I can't keep them forever. in 1 week they're in the trash

can't attach pics

$145.00 plus shipping. paypal if you pay fees. We need to work out payment methods since I'm not familiar with it. can't seem to add pics, flash or regular

MZ-RH910 working model with AA battery sidecar attachment that comes with it, RM-MC40ELK thumb remote manual USB cable also included: my homemade battery box disguised as a dental floss box Church mic preamp ST-20A 4 himd 1gb discs 4 gum stick batteries. hitech charger WY-346 missing but I'll look some more: charger. best reasonable offer. I'll guarantee recorder if everything is returned prepaid in same condition I sent it within 5 days of receiving. No refunds on shipping either way. Everything worked for me when I last used it about 2 years ago but batteries are what they are. Not sure how well they would hold a charge even though 2 were new and used/charged a couple of times.

Check out my recent vocal. http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?autom...si&img=4323

I had the same problem with my RH 910 gumstick batteries They do wear out so if you have recharged them a few times they will loose it's stuff so to speak. I got tired of fighting it. I bought new ones from Orient of course, and I think even one of those was bad. I got so I couldn't count on them when I had a one-shot recording session and have changed completely to my olympus digital which uses 2 AA's. Not only are they easy to come by, I get hours upon hours from one set (or one charge for my rechargeables) as well as more recording time since they don't depend on the limited MD disc capacity. I must say I only record so maybe you are stuck with the MD if you use it mainly as a player. I don't think my Olympus is made for playback quality. I'm not familiar enough with the NH900 to know if it even is meant for recording. good luck

My batteries should suffice now, I'm pretty sure I'll never use the R910 again except for a backup if the LS-10 breaks. Another plus. The peak and record LED's can be turned off. I also turned off the backlight. Then there is a function button you can program to do a menu item. I programed mine to turn on the backlight. Now I can adjust the level or check the level by hitting the backlight for a few seconds and not disturb anyone. The level graphics has a peak line that persistists momentarily so you can spot the peaks pretty easy. With the R910 I had to anticipate a loud section and turn on the remote and observe the level indicator what a pain. Now when there is a loud section I can do a quick hit of the backlight and check the persistent peak indicator on the level graphic.

using the remote and checking it now and then while recording (backlite may draw some power). I always, from day one with the sony batteries and with 1400mah gumsticks, got at most 3 hours at 44.1 PCM, about 2 disks worth. They did weaken noticeably so I had to purchase more on Ebay (oriental origin - Vapex brand). 2 in a pack, one is worthless at less than 1 disk and the other can make it through a disk but I wouldn't trust it to do much more and usually would change it out when I changed disks. (disk at PCM is 90 min) I never confirmed it but I did a recording in compressed format and I thought it was a lot longer, so the activity of writing to disk apparently is the the power drain. Do you get 6 hours at PCM or in the compressed formats? So far it looks like I can expect 6 hours of 44.1 24bit recording with the LS10. I can't buy the gumsticks locally so purchase is overseas at high dollar and a crap shoot on reliability. Another plus for the LS-10.

I been playing with it for about 30minutes worth and jut now finished recording 3.5 hours and the batteries still show full. With my RH910 I couldn't get an hour and half out of them without using the supplemental AA battery caddy. I would have to record an hour then replace the disc and batteries--start all over setting the rec settings to manual. What a pain. This battery situation is a big improvement over HDMD.

I did a few tests on my MD, a RH910 and my LS10. Using righmark I did their test for simple desktop speakers to my panasonic mics. Nothing fancy but it compares well. Other factors such as my methods, mics speakers are all common problems so they may mean something. There are a few output results from the standard test but I am posting the freq response. then I did a test with a 10k resistor into the mic at lo and hi sensitivity. LS10 Low sens MD low sens LS10 High sens MD High sens

Any easy way to check mics to get them close to same output. I'm getting tired of losing so much editing room because my mics are 6db off. Is soldering and testing the only way. Anyone come up with a good jig?

As owner and user of the RH910 I just purchased this LS-10 for these principle changes I needed: recording without occasional clicks of the mech disc; AA batteries; persistence of settings; length of recording without changing anything and last but most important 24bit. So far it seems it will do the job. With my MD I did get to be fairly stealthy by using the remote for checking the level. The gum batteries are not dependable and soon barely last an hour. A set of new ones I got (from china of course) one can't hold a charge right out of the box. They pretty much need the supplemental sidekick aa unit for the needed recording time. with the LS-10 I can set the function key to turn on/off the backlight and I can turn off the LED's for stealth use and with 12 bit I don't have to sweat going up to near peak. I record stuff with huge dynamic range and need the resolution at the low end. And now I can either turn it off between sessions knowing I won't lose my settings or I can just leave it on since the battery life seems to be holding pretty well.

They really seem to be popping up now. But I don't think I can wait either. Size is important. I don't know what oled is but will have to investigate. It does seem clear. There's some youtube videos on all the new recorders Here's a nice site with comparisons and reviews. http://www.wingfieldaudio.com/compare-port...-recorders.html

http://www.d-mpro.com/users/folder.asp?Fol...mp;SubCatID=188 haven't check into it yet but it is the shortest of the one's I've be looking at , 4" 102mm

I read a few googles and it may be the mfr is out of business and the name or line is owned by thomann which may be ok except I couldn't readily see a support page on the item with manuals or specs. If I upgrade from disc to flash I'd want 24 bit. I'd sure go for a stealthy flash recorder where one can easily check clipping and record to 24bit but at least as small as my RH910. I wish they would leave the mics off and they all are so thick 1 inch or better. the RH910 has issues for stealth value but the small remote stick helps.

Was it with the built in mics which is a waste of space for me. I would think most any a/d they have would do more than adequate. I like the idea of 24bit, a dream for recording and editing.

I wonder if Panasonic or someone will make an Electret with Nationals chip LMV1012. It would be interesting to see how it and line-in use would compare to a regular electret/mic-in useage. I might check out my old cell phones to see if they have such an animal for experimenting.

<p>I know people are always looking for other container ideas for GM's bat box so I took some pics of my project. Hope it is useful. </p> <p>I found the batbox definitely improves the mic-in in at least one aspect, and after I try some recording may find it better than my external commercial preamp/line-in combo. The commercial preamp has problems I can't figure out, sometimes it clips at approx -3db, and it also has a jack I can't completely trust. Also with the on switch and low/hi amp switch, I guess they could add noise to the mix, so if this batterybox/mic-in performs like it is starting out, I will definitely recommend it for use with mic-in.</p> <p>The one improvement I noticed is the balance levels between channels. with mic-in there is a 3db difference between channels, but with the batterybox they are even levels.</p> <p>The mic-in set at 20/30 equals the batterbox's setting of 16/30.</p> <p>After looking for a good case in lieu of the glue glob, since I wanted to do jacks instead of the hardwired output, I came up with a floss container. Here's some pics.<br> <br> </p> <table BORDER frame=box RULES=all> <col valign="top" align="center" width="30%"> <col valign="top" align="center" width="30%"> <col valign="top" align="center" width="30%"> <tr> <td><p>After I glued it I forgot what side was the mic. Good thing I took the pics Be sure and mark the mic on the resistor jacks</p></td> <td><p>use the floss for something </p></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td><p>drill 1/4" holes, the plastic is soft enough to do by hand but protect your fingers with some tape</p></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan=2><p>I stripped the grnd(-) a little long and used the extra length to bridge the two jacks. If I do it again, I will add a separate bridge wire to allow for expansion and flexibility when mounting in the container.</p></td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td><p>I mounted it on the outside to work on. This gave me some idea of final position as I attach the caps</p></td> <td><p>Nut the jacks and add some glue to keep wires separate. I put some elect tape pieces over the jacks and also between areas I was worried about shorting. I forgot to get pics of the resistor attachment but their leads will fit in the jack's solder tabs along with the cap leads to make an easy connection.</p></td> <td></td> </tr> </table> <p>You can poke some holes in a patch of tinfoil and wrap the container with the jacks sticking thru the holes and the nut on the outside. I would suppose this would add some shielding tied to the grnd(-).</p> <p>I salvaged the bat connector from an old garage door opener. Check local dealers they may have some old throwaway openers from their jobs.</p>

I got Radio Shack's non polarized caps, is that acceptable.

I'm going to build a BB and do some testing to see if running soft sounds is much different going through a preamp or going through the BB and post-normalizing the digital output. There will be some resolution loss though it may not matter. I am guessing the mic will put out analog signal noise regardless of being run through a preamp or line-in and can't be avoided. However you are avoiding preamp noise going through the line-in, I just don't know if post processing low signals will be a good tradeoff for the bother and problems with preamps.

no that didn't work but for all those who seek wisdom and happen to stumble on to this post, I did fix it. FWIW I used 3.3 with 98 without any problem (BTW got a few items uploaded). When I tried an lp and sp recording and it didn't work. I went into the options for another try at some kind of settings. I decided to click reset "display all messages" button. When I tried again. the info popup appeared and then the popup about converting to wav files. Then it went ahead and transfered. Probably the convert to wav file dialog box was not properly initialized with any discernable settings but it never displayed because the option to not display these dialogs was opted out by me in the last version.

I just recently updated from 98 to XP and I can't get Sonic Stage to transfer my himd pcm files to the disc. I uninstalled per instructions in this group. I don't get any errors. It just doesn't do it. I can play the himd files and see the properties but it won't transfer. I see this in the omg log 2006/10/04 18:58:24 [C:\Program Files\Sony\SonicStage\Omgjbox.exe] 000003a0:000006cc CPdHiMd::SetInitOption SetDeviceTime error. failed 0x80040e07

Someone jump in here for more info for the newbies posting, but WU uses flash I believe. I would suspect SS uses flash for somethings also, though I don't know. I'm a little more comfortable tweaking my computer, but I would uninstall my flash player and then try WU so it can reinstall the needed flash player.

Hi Regina, I record these types but am relatively new. My first is in the recording section http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?act=m...album&album=209 I've since change mics to my homemade omni's.

I asked before about effects of heat and no one seemed to know for sure. I know my 2nd try of over soldered Panasonic brand seem to be just fine, but they are not as sensitive as my 1st try.