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60 Hertz Hum

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caeleb

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My RH10 has a similar problem when I record using the power supply in my home. Personally I just use battery power instead to solve the problem, but this article may help: http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/connecti...m-hum-and-buzz/

I'll definitely do that with my MZ-NH700 too. The only issue I may have is during live recordings at gigs is changing the AA battery after every act that plays that night (good thing I carry spares and tons of them at that in my media bag), especially when I use Linear PCM mode with a 1GB Hi-MD (up to 93 UNCOMPRESSED MINUTES on it, WOW!) for transfer to CD.

Otherwise to conserve battery life I could just use standard ATRAC SP on MD instead, after all, not many who are not in the know about ATRAC compression (unlike us) can tell the difference between it and uncompressed audio.

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I find NiMH rechargeables work best with high current draining devices like HiMD. Even with the supplied low capacity one (700mAh) I can record about one and a half 1GB HiMDs in PCM mode with my NH700. Higher capacity ones can deliver much more than that. Alkalines are not really optimized for high current drain and will appear empty faster (when there is actually plenty of capacity left, but only accessible for low current draining devices). I think it's due to their higher inner resistance.

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My luck has been different from yours, GM. I generally use 2300 or 2500 mAh NiMH rechargeables for my NHF800 or NH700, but I don't find they last quite as long as Duracell Ultras. For real marathons I bring alkalines. The Duracell hangs on, even if it's reading just 1/4 full, for a long time.

Incidentally, I have had zero luck with Energizer 2500 mAh rechargeables. A few cycles and they're just dead. I bought a dozen of them, so it's not a matter of one bad batttery. They just don't last. But the no-name Powerizer rechargeables are going strong.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?Page...amp;ProdID=2554

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My luck has been different from yours, GM. I generally use 2300 or 2500 mAh NiMH rechargeables for my NHF800 or NH700, but I don't find they last quite as long as Duracell Ultras. For real marathons I bring alkalines. The Duracell hangs on, even if it's reading just 1/4 full, for a long time.

Incidentally, I have had zero luck with Energizer 2500 mAh rechargeables. A few cycles and they're just dead. I bought a dozen of them, so it's not a matter of one bad batttery. They just don't last. But the no-name Powerizer rechargeables are going strong.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?Page...amp;ProdID=2554

I myself use Energizer E2 Lithium batteries that you would normally use for a Cyber-shot camera, I USED TO use E2 Titanium, but you bring up a pretty good point about current, I stupidly sold the supplied AC-ES3010K power adapter (1 amp) in favor of (and without knowing it was a lower current) AC-ES305K (500mA) from an MZ-N510CK and a matching OEM DCC-E2305 (500mA) 3 V car adapter instead of the correct one, a DCC-E230 (1 amp), thinking they both work the same..... not to be.

Thanks for bringing up the important fact that Hi-MD decks drain MORE current and need more juice (amps) than say their NetMD/MD counterparts, so indeed I will get the correct adapter (the AC-ES3010K) from the Sony DAPC (they say it works with the MZ-NH900, as the NH700 is not aailable in the U.S., so naturally it is not listed on the site) but it IS the same one, as I DO have a spare NH700 unit from Australia, the only difference between the two being the AC voltage).

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