walkdude

I agree, it would be smarter to use a dlt-1180 or similar component, although the optical cable itself is robust, the plugs are built to RCA cable standards and specifications, so, like a screwless lug RCA jack, it's going to be at the behest of the solder joint alone.

Hi! Still around? I'm happy to report that the mod has successfully completed 5 years and 25ish days of service with no ill effects.

It works fine, even SCMS, I can hear music coming from the deck through the walkman! so I bet I could probably rip MD's back into the computer with an Optical In Equipped soundcard or hook it up to a digitally equipped stereo

I have a virtualbox comprised of a stripped down windows 2000 with sonicstage installed to do uploads...I'm still working on fixing the crash on load for windows 10, it's a real headscratcher. hopefully I get it fixed before Win10 goes gold.

SCMS Defeated on output? Not sure yet, it seems to be, I'd have to get an TOSLINK adaptor for my pocket MDLP to make sure I can make a 1:1 copy. How did I find exactly every part I needed off a newer CD Changer? Pure Friggin' Luck. How long did it take? About an hour of careful soldering. Why? Sony has a way with their market segmentation, they simply tear down a high end model and sell it for less, so there's always room for aftermarket upgrades.

OK I did it and it works! First I pulled the board out of a CDP-CE375 made Circa 2006 as it was a dirt common, broken 5CD Changer... Then I pulled a 4.7uf 50v cap, a jumper, and a resistor that matched the color of the Digital In resistor, off the CD Changer board. Soldered it in accordingly... Note the jumper plugged into L641, If it is any resistor value besides 0 ohm (i.e a chunk of wire) the voltage drops too much to run the capacitor/resistor chain cloned from the Digital in side. Then I cut and filed a hole for the plug where it would usually go on a JE770 model. And here it is working. And here it is processing it's own signal... this trick takes plugging it into an optical out from something else first, like a TV. I just compared service manuals and voltages... haha

As you've explained, yes these are damn impossible to find ~online~ However, the junked Sony Brand CD Changer I will be using for the donation does in fact use a 3.3v signalling level output diode (confirmed by multimeter) as it was built in the same era, basically, I don't even need to do the wire mod, just add a nice matching resistor to the existing 3.3v....

Ok, so I've got a MDS-JE470 which has a similar board to this here 480 model... In theory, grabbing an optical out plug from one of my junk Sony CD changers and soldering it on like so would be simple no? I'm wondering if you'd recommend hunting for a closer 5 volts/closing those neato jumpers closer to ic661... Here it is in its currently unmodded state, making sweet, sweet dubs from my CDP-C745 via optical

Hello friends, I'm taking a trip to Tokyo, Japan, where would be the best spots to find MD gear at reasonable prices? I'm looking for a couple MZ-RH1's & maybe an MDLP home deck. I'm packing light, just my backpack with some clothes, my netbook, my phone and cash for food and hotel. I'm taking with me my MZ-R500 and a handful of MD's so I can record music from Japanese FM Radio and bring it back with me as a souvenir. I speak japanese really well, so I won't come off as a smelly foreigner, if I visit back alley shops. (even though I'm only 1/8 asian haha)

Indeed, a nought was missed, $200 is a fair offer for all that. I'll get back to you at the end of the week, not sure if I want to get a new DJ controller first...

The earlier deck has its Digital output directly hooked up to the ATRAC DSP through a dedicated chip. as per the service manual the newer one appears to be hooked up to Digital audio out through some sort of multipurpose en/decoder that takes care of the CD/MD/MP3 and converts it to Digital out, my best guess is they had to compensate for all the features they had to cram into it.

it looks horrible! (in a good way) what do you think is a good price? I'm not sure, my starting offer is $20

I have an NE410 and a N510 and a G750 and a R500, each one has their own unique feel when recording, due to the different ATRAC DSPs, but this only affects the recording I find, as a prerecorded MD sounds exactly the same to me no matter what machine I put it in. In my opinion, use the MZ-510 in NETMD to record your stuff, also have it plugged in through AC, it won't introduce hum because its recording from your PC as binary audio instead of analog. Using the NE410 is just asking for eaten batteries, although its pretty much the same machine technology wise to the 510, it doesn't have a AC plug and'll give you the same results as your 510, they record binary, so they don't introduce analog noise in recording, and'll yield good results. In todays day and age, Optical recording isn't that useful anymore with the advent of buffering and CD ripping you can rip 2 CDs to a WAV format with sonicstage and burn and play it in LP2 in your older units that support MDLP, with the same quality of digital, the only difference is Optical is realtime, and Digital is buffered, its your choice really how long you want to wait . Analog recording is an entirely different animal for me though. I prefer to record with my G750 for Mic or my R500 or my N510 for line, because if the source material is live audio from a mic or the radio, there's no fidelity to be lost from compression because there's no data of which to chop off, and these players introduce an analog warmth much like a record player or a good punchy boom box, recording from a CD player live is kind of a off-put for me, because why would I spend my time sitting there recording this, when I could just listen to the source on my computer or my CD walkman? In my opinion, Analog recording is best reserved for chance happenings like concerts, new radio songs and important historical events, otherwise sitting down with sonicstage for the day ripping CD's or even dragging in your favorite 128kbps+ MP3s to LP2 MDLP is a good way to go.

I would like an MZM-200 or MZ-RH1 in any condition, as long as it has the battery, remote and charger, doesn't need the USB cable, or the mic, or any discs. I have a few older players, MZ-N510, MZ-NE410, MZ-R500 and an MZ-G750 with the remote, and about 10 brand new Sony Neige 80min discs, and 5 brand new Sony Premium Gold 80 MDs I'd be willing to put on the table for 1 of these. I'll even be willing to sacrifice my Rechargable sony CD player and its NH-14WM batteries! Even if it needs a few simple fixes or is scratched to hades, I want it I live in Western Canada, I have paypal.

Hi All! I've been looking at getting an MZ-M200 minidisc for a while because: A: I have a lot of minidiscs with music recorded onto them, and 3 players however I usually only use 1 of the players at a time and each has their own sound B: I found that having individual disks is good for organization, if I want to bring say only my drinking music and my dance music, theres two discs instead of a full Ipod or a clunky CD player and a pocket full of CDRs C: the USB disc mode makes these players very suitable to my DJ career, as I can store individual sets on standard MDs (which take around 300mb)so I don't have to worry about overuse of my digital turntable's CD Drive, or having to haul much more than my laptop around, plus I can mark them in UV pen so I can easily load them in pitch dark (with just a UV light) However, buying one brand new is Fracking expensive, its almost $500 brand new at sony style. PPS.com is reasonable however Its still too expensive, I'd rather spend $300+ on a PS3. I have these minidisc players, I'd like to know how much their worth with everything: Net MD Walkman MZ-N510, Rubby paint on edges, runs fine, cleaned with official sony MD lens cleaner Net MD Walkman MZ-NE410, Rubby paint on edges, same as above Recording MD Walkman MZ-R500, Includes Xitel MD-Port AN1, Audio Cable, USB plug, same cleaning as above. Heres a pic of them chain recording, the The 410 is being recorded by the 510, followed by the 500.

I recently recieved a DEJ985 walkman with fresh NH-14WM batteries and I was wondering where I could get a replacement remote for it. perhaps 2 because my minidisc supports LCD remotes.

I will do this tutorial in simple English as to translate easy. THIS TUTORIAL DOES NOT REQUIRE NETMD NVWRITER OR PATCHWRITER AT ALL You Will need: NetMD Minidisc Player with Battery Your Service Manual or at least your service Key. CD Type Minidisc (I used a drive cleaner) Recordable (MO) Type Minidisc (I used a premium 80 minute minidisc) First! Place the HOLD Switch on! Then Hold the "Group" Key while Pressing >>| ,>>| ,|<< ,|<< ,>>| ,|<< ,>>| ,|<< ,|| ,|| Your Unit should flash its entire LCD and a number such as 008 V1.600 Press >>| until 021 RESNV is displayed, press || until ResOK! Is Displayed. Unplug Battery Then place back in Press >>| Until 031 CD is displayed. Place CD MD In Machine, Press || Wait a few minutes for CD OK. Press >>| until 34 MO P&R is displayed Place MO MD in machine, preferably one you would like to erase. Press || this will take some time. It should say MO OK and now you should press STOP until its at the flashing version number. Press >>| Until you see 024 AssyXX, if its any number besides FF, do the above again until achieved. follow this if your unit seems to overheat. Measure the ambient temperature Go to 015 with >>| Adjust with [VOL +] or [VOL --] key so that the adjusted value (hexadecimal value) becomes the ambient temperature. (Initial value : 19h = 25

Although the local sony store has them still, I'd rather not spend $500 on one brand new I'm looking for an MZM-200 or an MZ-RH1 model with at least the battery and charger and maybe a hi-MD disc or two. I don't have much money at the moment but if need be I can sell/trade my MZ-N510 and MZ-R500. I could trade them with 2 blister packs (2 discs per pack) of Color 80 minute discs. (Brand New Old Stock from Sony)

My take on this is: I can power my MZ-R500 and MZ-N510 from a USB to pin adapter both coincidentally and ironically taken from a Powered USB hub. My research dictates that my players pull around 3.7 volts around 500mA during boot/playback/record, just enough to run them, but not enough to charge a battery. My PC (and most ones built after may 2006)include the Battery Charging Specification, this means my computer will happily provide 500mA to my devices weither its on, or in sleep/off mode. (which also explains why I only need 1 USB for my 2.5" external HDD) I can also use two the same cable on this iPod Wall charger which provides 2 USB Ports at 1A Per plug to charge (N510) and run (R500) both of my walkmans at the same time.

Its most likely a Floppy power cabe, USB internal cable and an internal SPDIF cable to the audio card. that way it behaves like a car stereo MD player with no screen and just an eject button.

Theres two ways to get into test mode on this and more finicky players, one is soldering a jumper on SL802 or with a key combo. I do it on my MD units like this. Put a Disc into your machine, play it. Put your unit on HOLD. Hold one of GROUP, T-Mark or sometimes END SEARCH then For Units with buttons (F = >>|, R = |<<): F,F,R,R,F,R,F,R and then press Pause, pause, it should give you something like 008 V1.600 and flash every single display element. (you probably know this part already). In Theory, Jog Units especially the RH-1/M200, you have to be VERY careful with the jog, dont press it down! otherwise it will register a play instead and mess up the code, so touch it gently, almost grasp it and make sure it doesn't press and do F,F,B,B,F,B,F,B, Pause Pause. Try one of GROUP, T-Mark or sometimes END SEARCH, I don't have an RH1 YET, so I cant tell which button it is for the master button, but it should be, T-Mark or volume(-), try all of them TRY THEM ALL! AND DO IT FAST!

It turns out I can use my MD-6LCL MD Lens cleaner as a Calibration CD (and resultant cleaner) in service mode, once you do the proper CD adjustments, the MD adjustments fly by in seconds (I recommend doing the MO P&R macro (20 seconds record + MO calibrate) right after also with an MD you can afford to blank). - Walkdude

I replicated my findings with another stock R500, it turns out that all units produced with a firmware Above 1.0, have all their factory settings stored in the ResNV Macro, thus making it easier for the sony techs to repair units. All the CD, MO and Power settings from the ResNV R500 matched or were close to the stock R500 in every way. But in comparison, my unit is a Canadian model, and the other is a US model, so the power options varied by one or two hex numbers which is to be expected, The unit just sits and waits for Assy11 to be set to AssyFF so the machine knows that the calibration is already there. So, In theory. using ResNV correctly on a unit above 1.0 firmware will restore a bad R700/R500/G750/N707/N505/N710 hack, but if it is in fact a 1.0 model, it will need to have ALL the applicable adjustments done that are in the service manual as well. - Walkdude

That would explain the lack of driver signing, I did some research and it turns out, having a test signed driver will disable Windows Media Player DRM (but not sonicstage's) for some stupid reason.

Ok, heres my gear MZ-N510 w/USB Cables MZ-R500 w/PCLink Box and cables 9x Sony Premium Gold 80 Minute MD's 4x Sony Color Collection 80minute MD's 1 Red, 3 Blue 6x Sony Color Collection 74 minute MD's, 1 Red, 2 Green, 3 blue Total Minidiscs: 19, Recorded: 7 ( 4 80min, 3 74min) Edit: I now have a MD Lens Cleaner also now, Thanks Shelby! (My lovely girlfriend).