javertim

Just lowered the price of the Attenuator Cable to $15.00 Buy-It-Now. Check it out! :-) Tim

I've added the Boost Box and Attenuator Cable to eBay. Check 'em out. :-) Tim

LOTS OF MINIDISC STORAGE / JEWEL CASES I have always just kept my minidiscs in MD flip-binders. Whether or not this is a good choice is totally up in the air. Still, I have found that my excess of jewel / storage cases have been cluttering my house for a good while now. I have already disposed of any cracked cases, so be assured that none of those listed below are cracked. This is what I have: (82) Frosted-Clear Single Sony Jewel Cases (including a few of the new Hi-MD cases) (6) White/Clear Single Sony ES Jewel Cases (7) Grey/Clear Single Fuji Jewel Cases -- some with labels on cases (9) Sony 5-Pack Storage Cases (7) Memorex 5-Pack Storage Cases In total, this is enough storage for 175 minidiscs. I don't even know what to ask for all this, so this is up for best offer. Email me at timrauser at cablespeed dot com if interested ... These will be shipped via Priority Mail with full insurance and delivery confirmation. Thanks! :-) Tim

MrSoul, I cannot remember in which thread I read about the backwards charge, but I came upon that information while looking for information concerning AA Ni-MH rechargeables for my RH-10. Hopefully someone can shed some more light on this.

I have read on here that rechargeable Ni-MH AAs work fine in the dry battery attachment on RH-10s, etc. However, someone mentioned that when both these rechargeables AND the regular gumstick batteries are installed, a sort of "backward" charge occurs, with the gumstick trying to recharge the attached AA. I understand the way this works, but can someone please tell me if this will cause any internal problems to the machine or even cause shortened battery life? So far, I have used only the AA rechargeable external batteries in my RH-10 and they have worked fine, giving me suitable battery life for my purposes. However, if adding a fully-charged gumstick will give me even more reassurance, I would like to do this. Thanks! :-) Tim

SOLD

I got my RH910 from Digital Foto Club (www.digitalfotoclub.com) for only $161. It came to around $170 WITH shipping. I found their Customer Service to be pretty good and all, so I would recommend them. :-)

*Bump* -- Price lowered and blanks dropped.

SOLD Now listed on eBay: CLICK HERE Okay, because of a dead-beat buyer, I still haven't sold my wonderful little DR77 (the complete original package plus some extras): Sharp DR77 (Silver) Minidisc Recorder Original Earphones Original Remote (Back-lit w/ record-start button) AC Power Adapter AA Battery Attachment Case Ni-MH 1.2V 1400mAh Gumstick Battery Black Cloth Draw-String Pouch Charging Stand / Cradle Instruction Manual Original Box Extras (not part of the original package): Sony MDR-EX51LP Earphones Extra Ni-MH battery 10WM http://www.minidisc.org/part_Sharp_MD-DR77.html CONDITION: The Recorder: All scratches / marks on this unit are so minor that they are almost not worth noting. The only area that exhibits noticeable scratching is the back of the unit and these marks are light and superficial at most. The main display area shows extraordinarily faint scratches only in direct light, but these are the kind of scratches that manifest themselves once the product has been taken out of its original packaging. I assure all bidders that this unit has nothing other than the best care possible and has never been dropped or mishandled in any way whatsoever. The only reason I am parting with this is because I have decided to “upgrade” to Hi-MD and am short on funds at the current time. This unit will be sorely missed! Accessories: The original earphones, remote, AC power adapter, AA battery case, charging cradle, cloth pouch, and original box are all in tip-top shape. The original gum-stick battery shows some signs of wear, but rest assured that it was only ever recharged after being completely emptied of any remaining charge and therefore avoiding / limiting the “battery memory effect.” The manual also shows some signs of wear, with a bent corner and some very minor water damage. Extras: The Sony MDR-EX51LP Earphones have only been worn a few times, but I have decided I much prefer the “over the head” headphones. Still, I will attest that these earphones provide wonderful highs and lows and are very comfortable when in place. I will supply the extra earbud inserts that came with them that allow the user to upgrade the size of the inserted piece, as well as the “chord case” meant to allow the user to keep better track of the chord and keep it from tangling. The extra Ni-MH battery is brand new and has never been used before. Photos: Thanks for looking. I hope to find a great home for this wonderful little device soon. It will be sorely missed. :-) Tim

The first auction didn't get any bids, so I've relisted with a Buy-It-Now of only $210 (starting bid now at $180). Buy-It-Now no longer includes "free shipping," however. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5806598664 Thanks again for looking! :-) Tim

The BUY-IT-NOW price has been lowered to $250 . . . Also, just purchased the 5-pack of minidiscs to give away with this auction. They are the "Premium Gold" Sony minidiscs -- a $12 value. Thanks again for looking. Sorry for the multiple replies. Poor college student, here. ;-) Tim

(Free Shipping Offer Revoked).

New Auction At: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5806598664 Thanks! :-)

The ES discs are my favorite to date. I just love how sturdy they feel, and the cream color shell makes them look very professional.

Greenmachine is right. Eyeglass screws are the right size and work very wonderful as replacements. I bought a pair of sunglasses at the dollar store and was able to use 2 of the screws to replace those missing from my MZ-N707 unit. Never have had this problem with either of my Sharps, though.

Lately, I've been thinking of purchasing a Reactive Sounds Boost Box. Now, this question may very well apply to any preamp, but it also has to do with fully adjustable gain. Basically, my question is as follows. Which of the below scenarios is better? Preamp Gain = 10 dB MD Rec Level = 20/30 Preamp Gain = 20 dB MD Rec Level = 10/30 I realize that Gain and Recording Levels are two totally different animals, but I am a little lost here. Is it better to have your MD's manual levels as high as possible and then set the gain from there, or is it best to keep the gain as high as possible and set the manual level accordingly? This is all in interest of getting the most noise-free (hiss-free) recording possible as far as the external preamp is concerned. I generally find it difficult to comprehend to the super-technical jargon of audio theory, so if anyone could please simplify this for me it would be greatly appreciated. :-) Thanks a bunch! Tim

Will the auto track-mark setting disable the recorder from adding it's own tracks in moments of silence?

(This post may belong in "Live Recording" or "Net MD," but it also seemed an equal candidate for this forum. Feel free to move it, of course.) I have a lot of old SP recordings that I would like to transfer to my computer, but I don't have the kind of cash right now to get a deck with digital-out and a sound card with digital-in (although I may wait, depending on suggestions). Would it be worth it to track down an older unit with a Line-Out for analog transfers (via Xitel's InPort -- Love it), or is the headphones jack going to give me the same level of performance? Wouldn't a Line-Out jack give me a cleaner signal? Thanks! :-)

Yes, I am a frequenter of the Equipment Browser. Since MD-LP was not listed on either deck's page, I decided it would be better to ask. Additionally, I was unlcear as to whether SP was different depending on whether it was recorded on a MD-LP recorder or not. Thanks for clearing things up for me! :-) Tim

I've been thinking about the purchase of a Sony MDS-JE530 deck. However, such a purchase would only be worthwhile if the deck itself is MD-LP compliant. The reason I want to buy the deck is for digital real-time uploading of non-HiMD recordings. Actually, most of the stuff I'd like to put onto my computer has been recorded in SP mode anyway (but with an MD-LP recorder), so I'm not really sure if the deck itself HAS to be MD-LP able ... does it? Thanks! :-) ETA: Same with the Sharp MD-R2. I'm almost positive that this one is not MD-LP compliant, but will it support recordings in SP mode even if they were made on an MD-LP portable? ... Sorry if I'm incredibly repetetive -- I just want to make my question(s) clear. :-)

Now this question may belong in the Hi-MD folder, but since half of it has to do with a live recording method, I decided to post it here ... I'm fond of recording via line-in (from battery box), as I think it gives me a much cleaner result. However, I've been using a Sharp for the past year or so and have loved that it doesn't start a new track whenever the signal drops very low for 2-3 seconds (i.e. Sony recorders). Now, I am well aware that even the newest Hi-MDs continue in this rather frustrating Sony tradition, but I'm really starting to notice the pros to fast digital uploading. My question is, if I start using a Hi-MD -- recording via line-in -- and end up with a fragmented recording track-wise, can I simply "merge" these tracks into a single large one before uploading? This seems to be much easier to do as opposed to uploading all the randomly cut tracks and reassembling them in an audio-editing application. I've searched these forums all morning for an answer to this question and found nothing, so I apologize if it has, in fact, already been answered. Thanks! :-)

Lately I've been considering purchasing either a Hi-MD model or a Creative Nomad Jukebox 3. The one thing that is making me lean toward the JB3 is that you can upload an unlimited number of times and also there are no automatic track marks added when recording line-in (when the levels are low, that is). So, I want to ask people who have used both what their opinions are. Obviously, this is a MD board and I am bound to get biased replies, but I'd still like to hear. How does sound quality differ ... Also, ease of live recording (the JB3 is a lot bigger). Thanks! :-) P.S.: This may belong in the Hi-MD forum, but since I am actually trying to decide on one device or the other, I decided to post here (find your minidisc).

Okay, so I've been able to come away with some really wonderful recordings using the line-in on my recorder, and I've been doing this for a while now. Many successful recordings. However, I'm still trying to find a better way to boost the quiet areas of my recordings. As I have said in the past, I am a theatre-goer and often see musicals and such. Therefore, it is easy to notice the difficulty because there are loud areas of music mixed with soft areas of dialogue. So far, I've been using a compression tool in Audition, compressing anything under -15dB at a ratio of 2:1. For more dynamic recordings, I've actually compressed the levels OVER -15dB, too, which compresses the loud stuff softly enough for my taste. But there had to be an easier way around this. Currently, the softest parts show one bar during recording if even that. The loudest things peak where they should and I am often lucky enough to have set the level to where the loud passages peak just below the distortion bar. Currently I'm running my CS-LCBs into a SP battery module with bass roll-off set minimally based on the theatre I'm in (I basically know my venues pretty well now). However, I notice that when I have recorded mic-in with attenuator in the past and have experienced the same range of levels without going over, the resulting recording is quite a bit louder. I don't know how to explain it. You would think that the same levels means the same volume, but this is not the case. Does anyone have and explanation for this? In the end, I think what I really need is a mini preamp, and I have been eyeing the Reactive Sounds Boost Box for a while. Mr Soul says the self-noise is ridiculously low. I'm imagining that my current battery box set-up may introduce some of its own self noise in the process. I may also want to look into a pair of mics with lower self-noise. For this, I've had my eye set on the SP-CMC-8s (so that later I can get different caps if need be). I am assuming that these have a much better self noise number (at 65dB) than my current CS-LCB mics. Thanks! :-)

Yes, if nothing is switched to "open," you are getting a powered signal that is free of any bass roll-off.

Just desperate because I'm taking a trip this weekend and I *REALLY* need cash. Additionally, I made the original mistake of setting the auction to go for 3 days instead of one. With it set up like this, there was no way of gauranteeing that I would get the PayPal amount in time ... So I threw in some extra insentives. To tell you the truth, I really hate to part with these mics. They made an excellent backup for my Core-Sound LCBs. The only reason I prefer the LCBs is because I like their clip-mounting better (they point straight ahead when I clip them to my shirt collar). The only reason I haven't used to Audio Technica clips is because when I ordered the mics, I had opted to get them *without* the removable clips (didn't like the looks of them) and ordered the AT clips to mount them instead. But something got messed up with my order, and I got the removable clips anyway. They proved to work easily, so I just went with them. I actually felt kind of cheated at the time for paying $22 for 2 extra clips that I didn't really need. Oh, well. :-)