matheis

Hello All!!! Looking to divest myself of my RH10 (US, black) and himd's. The RH10 is in immaculate condition with a screen protector over the oled display and is in perfect working order. All accessories will be included, in fact the RH10 will be packed in the original box. Looking for $200 + shipping in the CONUS. I also have 15 himd's I'd like to sell. I want to sell them as a package for $75 + shipping in the CONUS. Or a package deal for $275 for the RH10 + himd's shipped in the CONUS. Please email me at matheismd AT yahoo DOT com (removing spaces and adding punctuation/symbols as appropriate). Thanks! Nikolaus PS, I might not respond right away, as I'll be out of town Dec 29 - Jan 2.

bump for price drop on blanks to $0.65 each + shipping pm or email me. i know someone must be interested in some blanks at this price!!!

hello all!!! i've got LOTS of blanks for sale. 74 and 80min. music on some. some labeled, some not. sony, tdk, memorex. looking for $0.75 each + shipping. feedback under the same username at head-fi. feedback here and here and here. if interested email me at: matheismd @ yahoo.com thanks! nikolaus

Hello All!!! I am interested in picking up a player-only unit and am especially interested in the following... Kenwood Q-Series (Q33, Q55, Q77) Panasonic MJ9x Series (MJ90, MJ95, MJ97, MJ99) Sharp DS8 (might be interested in a DR80, as well) Unit must be fully functional and in good physical condition, with at least the main unit, remote, battery, external battery case, and ac adaptor or charger. PM me if you're interested in making a deal Nikolaus

oh yeah, i stand corrected about panas having weaker output than the other units. after a bit of research, it turns out that pana just quotes their output with odd specs. so, when you see 2.5mW x2 channels, it's actually 2.5mW per channel at 50ohms. sony quotes their output as 5mW per channel at 16ohms and sharp at 5mW per channel at 32ohms. so, pana is actually around 5mW per channel at 25ohms, putting it in between sony and sharp in output power. and, i had the mr220 for awhile. it was a pretty cool unit! i liked the slider the remote needed some work, though! the non-mdlp mr200 was a nice unit, as well - and had the cool slider. i preferred the remote from that unit! the background behind the lcd screen pulled inside the unit when the remote is placed in the hold mode, leaving the lcd screen see-through!!! i think i saw a mr200 and mr220 on e-bay this morning, and they had some time left on them. i doubt they'll get too high in price. i was outbid in the last couple of hours for a pana mj75 last night sold for a whopping $50 and included 15mds. hope the person who snagged it has a recorded and recharger, as the unit doesn't actually charge the battery - you need a separate charger or another md unit. later nikolaus

i've owned many brands and models of md equipment, so just a note to you regarding some of the players/features you mention... the speakers on charging stands are not very good (i'm being generous here, too) panasonic has a nice eq for "brighter" music but doesn't pack much punch when it comes to powering higher impedance headphones sharp is my second favorite in terms of sound quality but gets used the most kenwood is my favorite in terms of sound quality, however they have a few quirks that drove me away (like when you pause, there is no auto shut-off so it stays on forever - so you think you'll hit stop to kick in the auto shut-off but then playback starts back at the beginning of the song you were on - not at the point you stopped at like every other brand) (or like it gave me read errors on md's that my sony, sharp, and pana's could read just fine) - but in terms of pure sound quality, they kick ass!!! if it were me, i'd think of picking up the ds8 that audiocubes has for ~$170 usd right now. i owned one for quite awhile. it's pretty darn small, sounds good, is a sharp looking player (pun intended), and you'll get a one-year warranty (if something goes wrong, send it to audiocubes and they'll get it fixed or repaired for you). later nikolaus

amen to that!!! a few states in the usa have implemented laws completely banning corporate campagin contributions. of course, the corporate elites are still free to contribute, but usually states with corporate restrictions also severely restrict the dollar amount an individual citizen can contribute. in the state of oregon, we're working on campaign to put a hard limit on the amount of money any one entity can contribute in total to campagins per year. some municipalities in the usa are wrking to severely restrict corporate charters so that they have a detailed definition of what the corporation will accomplish and the time frame for dissolution of the charter. this is the way in which corporations were viewed by the "founding fathers" in the usa - time-limited and task-specific. also, us corporations are given the full rights of an individual citizen here in the usa - including free speech rights (of which campagin contributions are the primary use). this right was given to corporations by a us supreme court clerck in the late 1800's and was not in the actual ruling of the us supreme court - only in the abstract summarizing the case. coincidently, the court clerck was a railroad man (if my memory serves me correctly) and would have benifited greatly from this in his business dealings. i hope people partaking in this discussion have seen "the corporation" (a great documentary on the powers of corporations in the usa and around the world) and are following the bludgeoning of workers aorund the world through use of wrold bank and international monetary fund so-called "economic reforms". i also suggest checking out www.counterpunch.org and www.zmag.org as two great resources for activism in the fight against the corporate leviathan!!! nikolaus

all depends on the context, i think. in my neighborhood in portland, or - a local property owner signed a long-term lease with walmart in an area known for it's local artists, great restaurants, and antique stores (not to mention strong community spirit). in oregon, an initiative passed whereby a property owner can now be compensated if governmental action diminishes his/her property value (or money gained from property usage). so, here we have an under the radar lease with walmart, which the community has come out strongly against but since governmental intervention has been strongly curtailed by passage of the initiative, the walmart will likely go in, providing low-paying jobs with poor (or no) health care, congest our streets, and harm local businesses. so, i'd say that in this case, i'd definitely prefer governmental intervention to stop the property use that the owner desires. not quite what the original topic is, but closely related - i think. the supreme court ruling does seem weighted to moneyed interests, which is unfortunate. what we need is more community involvement and awareness! i mean if the government is going to intervene, it should at least do so to further the best interest of the majority of people in the affected community. instead, it always works out to the best interest of the moneyed elites...

oh...so you're molater, eh! i think i knw that at one time but fogrot. that was before the mdcf had taken off & the t-board was all the rage with the cool kids well, thanks then worked like a charm!

guess i'm just paranoid about my md's then. i've always used the write protection tabs - even going back the my pre-netmd days

toothpaste works pretty well, too. just put a small dab of toothpaste on a q-tip, get very slightly damp, and rub in circles over the scratch. took out some scuffs on my mz-n10 lcd cover with this method (at the prompting of a minidisc t-boarder, back in the day). might be worth a try with the rh10. certainly a better price than a ~$15 "scratch removal kit"! just make sure you use regular toothpaste and not the baking soda or whitening kind - they'll have more grit and could lead to more fine scratches. regular toothpaste is very fine and worked well for me. good luck! nikolaus ps, after that put a plastic cover on it!!! i got a couple of small, fine scrathces on my rh10 recently. i just cleaned it off with hot breath / shirt method & palced a palm pilot screen protector over the left half of my rh10. visibility is not impaired (or at least not much) and i feel confident that it will protect the oled well and for quite some time.

so, it looks like bwerbrou's confirmed that you can get the hi-md's apart without trashing them too badly. that's a good sign. i might have a crack at it this weekend when i've got some time then. thanks for the update on that. regarding the rear hole. if you epoxy it so that it's permanently filled in, don't you run the risk of accidently erasing the material at some point? perhaps i'm just being paranoid, but i think the tape method sounds more cautious. it's what i used to do with cassette tapes after recording them - break off the tabs and then put tape over them if i wanted to erase/record again. later nikolaus

i look forward to hearing back about whether or not you think the hi-md cases can be salvaged!

so the hi-md cases are glues together? i guess that's okay for the most part. i have some of those memorex colr series md's that start to pop apart after awhile i'll have to think about prying the hi-md's apart then! do y'all think there's any hope of getting 'em apert without breaking them?

so, this looks interesting! i have lots of regular md's and several hi-md's and wouldn't mind trying this out. i like bwerbrou's job with gluing it together and using the hi-md shutter. i'm wondering how you distinguish your "new" hi-md blanks, valder? i'm also wondering if you (valder) had problems getting the hi-md disc apart? bwerbrou mentioned breaking the case to get at the hi-md disc inside. i'd like to be able to use all of the discs and am leary of taking them apart if i only get one good hi-md out of the deal (no matter how stylish it now looks) and end up having to throw the regular md away because the hi-md case is too broken to put it in. i still use old md's in sp mode in my auvi shelf unit and need a stash on hand for new cd->md dubs. hi-md is more for listening to at work (so i don't have to have so many md's around) and for live recording. anyway, if you can give me a little reassurance that i can get two functional md's out of the deal, i might be up fo giving this a whirl thanks! nikolaus