62v8
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Having recorded over 100 shows in a multitude of variations ... I guess I can answer with confidence 1) 9v v 12V - in all probability no difference 2) Bass Roll Off - correct application depends on the music source, mic & room - basically it is not necessary 3) Not really Keep in mind the main reason for buying a battery box in the first place should be a) To get the mic operating at a more optimal point in leiu of plug in power. The improvement aspect in the SPL handling and distortion. Enables you to run line in on your recorder ilo mic (which has always been my preference) Try this as an alternative ... http://www.microphonemadness.com/products/mmcbmminminc.htm Lastly, don't forget that even very ordinary sounding raw masters can sparkle with wise application of equalisation in post. Cheers
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All you need is cabling (with appropriate connectors) from desk to RH1 (stereo 3.5mm). Some research is required here before you turn up on recording day. Most desks will have stereo RCA outputs for recorders/decks but sometimes you will only find phono sockets or sometimes the desk is sealed and there nowhere to plug into. Be prepared for anything and do your homework. Talk to sound man and see what he can give you ... PA feed or a discrete mix for your recorder (again desk dependant). You can pick up "Y" cables (3.5mm stereo male to 2 x RCA male or 2 x 6.5mm phono male or ...) around the place if you aren't handy with a soldering iron. Maybe the easier way out is to get your 3.5mm stereo male > 2 x XLR Female. Then buy all the other bits as needed eg the RCA > XLR (M) or the Phono M > XLR (M) and you will be covered for nearly any contingency going forward. Again all that is pretty easy to pick up. Hope it helps. Cheers
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I do have a set of Naiant extended lead cardioids. Certainly not a bad mic mic and definitely great for the $. Recorded some nice gigs with them but I definitely recommend them more for the quieter shows than trying to record in louder venues or near robust PA's. Cheers
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OK we are now onto something ... I do have an NT4 and while back there was thread (I can't remember #) that advised to cut off the supplied 1/8" 5 pin socket. The reason being that Rode actually inserted a 12db pad in there. If the thread cannot be found .. read here and modify accordingly http://www.uwm.edu/~type/audio-reports/Rod...leMod-index.htm Get rid of the supplied cable and you won't be sorry. All your missing detail will be revealled and the Rode is indeed a nice mic. SPL will be least of your worries. Cheers 62v8
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Well the attacks are coming left right and centre these days. On top of the existing competition ... Fostex have the the FR2 LE on the horizon. Even more interesting is the just released Korg MR-1 (check it out ... now Sony should have been building something like this if they were serious!). Granted that these are more expensive and slightly larger than a RH1 but in a pro sense it is no contest. Sampling & bit rates for starters and even more importantly ease of transfer for archive and other applications. There will still be a small demand for MD since there are still plenty of pro decks out there. No HiMD deck (pro or consumer) killed any opportunity in the pro market. IMHO it only really only leaves the consumer market as the formats battleground. Other than Japan that battle for Joe publics dollar is already lost, so that just leaves the already converted as the market. I'd be surprised if I spent any more on MD/HiMD other than buying consumables. Why do most people buy a new bit of kit? Main reason being more capacity & more horsepower and not just for a few bells and whistles / functional tweaks The newer, bigger, better, faster mentality rules. The formats time is up. Cheers GT
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Having recorded more than a few concerts .... Method is mic -> MM Elite or Mint BBox where required -> MD or HiMD Line In ... Here is a rough guide as to bass roll off settings (that have worked for me) Firstly, most low end cardioid mics do not have any great sub 100Hz response so the BBox setting I use is 16Hz. Better cardioids (I use a Rode NT4) I put straight into line in. Can't beat that kick ass kick drum and bottom end that ends up in the recording. Now if you are getting prominent bass ... and irrespective of whether you are in front of stage, by the desk or in front of the PA ... I gather that you are using omni directional mics. Change the BBox settings to 69Hz or whatever is next on the list eg 95Hz. You will end up with a much nicer balanced sound that would only need a minor tweak if any. Bass is still there ... just not as prominent. Experimentation is the only forward until you find that setting that suits. Hope that helps. Cheers GT
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MZ-RH10 + MM-BSM-8 for live gig= bad result. Why?
62v8 replied to alexisvas's topic in Live Recording
I do own a set of these mics and have recorded plenty of shows with them. Here is the trick and there are 2 options available to you. a) get yourself a 9V battery box with either fixed or variable rolloff (aim for 110 / 120 HZ) and run line in on the recorder (MM and others do make them) don't buy / build a battery box and just run the recording through a high pass filter (at around the above corner frequencies) in software. Personally I prefer Option A which powers the mics at the optimum 9V level. The mics will brickwall but that only happened when I did Dinosaur Jr (and boy was that loud). For most other shows that I've attended and recorded ... these mics are fine. Hope that helps Cheers -
Recording quality is identical ... & battery life is great (especially with large capacity rechargeables) The only shortcoming with the 700 is that unless you are happy with AGC it will not recall your manual recording set ups (mic level). There are plenty of threads re the pro's & cons. Oh and being Gen 1 it will record on standard MD discs in HiMD mode or MD mode. You really cannot loose. Regards
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I've been buying them from Bing Lee and they are still $4.95 or less by the box.
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Since we are talking about the Sony DS70P mic ... What is the max amount of voltage it can take from an external battery box? Can it take 9V or is it restricted to normal plug in power of 1.5V? Just curious. Thanks GT
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First things first ... Junk SS 2.0 and get to at least SS 3.4 Then try again. Cheers
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Fellas, Just be aware that the headphone o/p is not line level. It's a long way down and you'll have wind the crap out of the amp. GT
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Stanton turntables are reasonably priced and usually come with a half decent cartridge. Depends on your budget and of course where you are. Try www.tracertek.com for a pre-amp & turntables. They've got plenty of goodies
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Mate, You need a pre - amp to get the levels right (ie line level). The other thing that pre-amps apply is the RIAA equalisation curve. Remember LP's & 45's had the bass cut & treble boosted to keep the needle in the groove and also fit more play time onto the discs. The RIAA curve reverses this and returns the response to what it should have been There are flat amps available where you apply the RIAA via software as opposed to the hit & miss of the component based pre-amp. Not all amps are equal and you get what you pay for. Hope that helps