big problem with my "new" MZ-RH1

[mrluff]

hello all, i've used this site for info. before but now i need help with a big problem;

i bought the mz-rh1 when it was totally new on the market, and have been happy with it until now.

some time ago a problem appeared out of nowhere and has been there since.

the problem is that when the player is on, and i lightly or more heavily touch the top-cover near the "t mark" writing, the player "reboots" at once.

this happens every time i touch it, and i have to be very careful when touching, if i don't want it to reset. i thought that the problem was with some sensor that reacts when the lid opens, and found the two small "spikes" in the corner by the "display/menu" writing. i tried building up under the spikes so that the top lid would not have any friction when closed (to prevent resetting when touched) but it didn't help at all.

has anyone else had this problem, or know what it's about and how to fix? thanks, lars.

btw. is the lith-ion battery in the mz-rh1 proprietary and you can't get any other? and, what do i do to get all my flac albums easily over to my hi-md discs? what's the easiest way to get from flac to atrac lossless?

[A440]

what's the easiest way to get from flac to atrac lossless?

Wish I could help you with the mechanical problem, but I have no idea.

For transcoding, it may not be the easiest, but I can give you a two-step process that will work. Get Media Coder (free converter software) and convert the flac to wav, then use SonicStage to do the Atrac Lossless. The flac-to-wave conversion is fast--all you need is drive space.

http://mediacoder.sourceforge.net/

Edited May 19, 2008 by A440

[Syrius]

JetAudio can convert from FLAC to WMA9 Lossless. Sonicstage can handle those just fine.

[alexis]

some time ago a problem appeared out of nowhere and has been there since.

the problem is that when the player is on, and i lightly or more heavily touch the top-cover near the "t mark" writing, the player "reboots" at once.

has anyone else had this problem, or know what it's about and how to fix? thanks, lars.

I had a similar problem using a DH10P. Looks like the battery has nothing to do with it. It might be a problem with the eject button.

[reefbeef]

I also have a similar, if not the same, problem:

http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=20946

Some guys have recommended tightening up some of the screws. I haven't tried this yet...

I started using my NH1 for crucial stealth recordings. I gotta admit it is a much sturdier design. The problem is, I'm switching over to Mac from PC and the NH1 doesn't upload to Mac like the RH1 does. Oh well, trouble in paradise I guess...

[bobzilli]

All the discussion and beefs aside, the main reason I switched back to MD from Hi Md (even though I have a Mac) is because the Rh-1 is of such shoddy construction, which shocked me for a Sony. A great unit and even better if you have a Mac, but alas, I cant trust it. I have two and have to baby them both just to do transfers. Like many have cried before me, just one more model would have changed everything...

[reefbeef]

What about a firmware update to the NH1 or some sort of hack to allow it to upload to Mac, remember recording settings, and upload legacy MD recordings.

Possible?

[kino170878]

What about a firmware update to the NH1 or some sort of hack to allow it to upload to Mac, remember recording settings, and upload legacy MD recordings.

Possible?

From what I have read, the RH1 has special hardware in it in order to upload legacy tracks which is absent on every other Hi-MD unit.

[mrluff]

thanks for all the tips, i'm now trying to disassemble the mz-rh1, i've removed two screws from under the player, two screws at the back, and three screws holding the top-lid together with the md-holder. the fourth one of these is impossible to get to, is this meant to be? how does one remove it? what screws inside are the important ones to tighten?

btw. is the playback sound in the mz-m100 much poorer than in the rh1? the difference is the HD amp in the rh1, can someone explain to me the difference with and with out the HD amp?

and, have they fixed the bad sound with mp3 on the m100, that was the case with the rh10?

thanks! you're a great bunch in here

[mrluff]

update!

i've now fixed the problem; it was an easy fix really, after i downloaded the servicemanual off the downloads section of this site, i disassembled the RH1 and found the sensor on the left side that regulates on/off, open/close or whatever, i tightened all the screws and that helped, but not enough, the sensor was barely touching the metalplate it is supposed to touch because of the slightly loose top lid. i made a small bracket with some tape, and slid it by the sensor so that it activated the open/close function properly when lid is closed. that's it!

I must say that tightening all screws really made the md much more "in one piece" without sqeaky noises or loose panels. it was worth the effort in itself.

BUT

strangely and ironically I got myself a new problem when fixing the other. Now my HI-MD disks appear WRITE PROTECTED in display! Whatever the disk itself is set to. My old standard MD's don't have this problem. The HI-MD appears write protected both by menu and by sonicstage. i have no idea why, though I've heard others with the same problem?

Interestingly enough, when taping the whole write protect area on the hi-md disc, it appears write protected no longer in md menu, but still in Sonicstage, can someone explain?