Neffi Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Has anyone successfully entered service mode on a DH10P? I've just picked up a European one from E-bay, and it frustratingly has no custom EQ. The volume cap I can live with, but lack of a proper equalizer is too much! I've managed to get into service mode on my (Japanese) RH10 by following the steps above, but nothing happens when I try the same procedure on the DH10P. Might it be because the RH10 has a separate pause button whereas on the DH10P it's combined with the play button? The DH10P service manual seems to suggest I'd have to open it up and solder things to enter service mode, which I'm too scared to attempt. If anyone knows the trick for the DH10P I'd be grateful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Has anyone successfully entered service mode on a DH10P? I've just picked up a European one from E-bay, and it frustratingly has no custom EQ. The volume cap I can live with, but lack of a proper equalizer is too much! I've managed to get into service mode on my (Japanese) RH10 by following the steps above, but nothing happens when I try the same procedure on the DH10P. Might it be because the RH10 has a separate pause button whereas on the DH10P it's combined with the play button? The DH10P service manual seems to suggest I'd have to open it up and solder things to enter service mode, which I'm too scared to attempt. If anyone knows the trick for the DH10P I'd be grateful.my suggestion, leave it alone, too nice a unit to muck up,Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffi Posted July 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 Well, I got brave and opened up the DH10P; managed to get it into service mode and now have a proper equaliser! This required only a little disassembly (removing the back cover) and no soldering (thankfully). The catch is that the unit's own screen doesn't seem to work in service mode so I had to use an LCD remote to navigate through it. The procedure is roughly the same as listed above for the RH10/910; a few buttons are different since the DH10P has a different button setup to the RH10 - although I did all the button pressing on the remote. I'll try to take some pics and post a how-to if other Euro-DH10P owners are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avrin Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 Nice!Could you please provide more detail?..Seems like actual soldering was not required since you only needed to shorten the corresponding points on the PCB with a suitable tool to get into the service mode. Am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffi Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 (edited) You're quite right Avrin! Having no confidence in my soldering skills, I substituted a jeweller's screwdriver with aluminium foil wrapped around the tip - crude but effective. I've tried to make a pictorial of the process - apologies for my dodgy photography and lack of macro lens.Note all button presses described here were performed on the remote, although I'd guess they would work just as well on the main unit.1. First I'd recommend downloading the DH10P service manual from this site for reference.2. Open the battery door, and remove the six screws from the back (camera lens side) of the unit as pictured below:3. Open the unit (and remove disc). Gently remove the back cover - take care as there are two cables soldered onto the back cover. I'd suggest using the side with the headphone/remote jack as the 'hinge' as this is where you'll meet most resistance.4. Lie the unit screen-side down and locate SL801 on the main board. Most of the main board is obscured by the camera sitting on top of it, but SL801 is peeking out from underneath at the corner of the unit where the volume and shutter buttons are. It may be obscured by a piece of adhesive tape attached to a flexible board. You might have to gently peel back one corner of the tape as pictured below. SL801 is circled in the picture.5. Reinsert the battery and close the battery door. You have to short (connect) the two sides of SL801; I used a flat screwdriver head with aluminium foil wrapped around it (pic below), but anything conductive should work. It doesn't seem to matter whether 'Hold' is on or off, just short SL801 and then press a button on the remote to power up. Once it's powered up you can remove whatever you used to short SL801. 6. The remote will say something like " 000 POOrOO " (pictured below). Press the STOP key on the remote and it should change to a display with all pixels flashing (shown below).7. Press the VOL+ key to switch to manual mode. The remote will display " 000 Manual ":8. Press the >>| key until you reach item 113; the remote will display " 113 DistFL A0 " - the A0 may vary depending on which region your unit is set to.9. Press VOL- repeatedly until the final two digits of the display read " 24 ". The display will change (pic below) to show some constantly incrementing numbers after "113". Don't worry about these, you are only changing the final two digits.10. When the final two digits display " 24 " press the GROUP+ and then the GROUP- key to save your change. The disc indicator on the remote will light up briefly.11. Press STOP a few times until the remote shows the display check mode with all pixels flashing on/off, then remove the battery.12. Gently turn the unit over (careful with the two cables attached to the back cover). Turn the unit on normally and check you have the full custom equaliser, extra languages etc (hooray)! If not remove the battery and start again from step five.13. Remove the battery again and reassemble the unit. Be patient attaching the back cover; it's stubborn around the headphone jack. The side panel containing the battery door has probably worked it's way a little loose by now and will need pressing gently inwards while you reattach the back panel. Don't force anything as a slight bend could cause problems with the disc door opening and shutting. I hope this helps. ^_^ Edited July 20, 2008 by Neffi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Excellent photo tutorial Neffi - I have split this out into it's own topic.* Moved to Hi-MD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avrin Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Absolutely amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kino170878 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 (edited) Now that's impressive! I don't think I could perform surgery like this on a portable as precious as the DH10 though. However the crippling service mode thing on european units would probably lead me to try. Edited July 20, 2008 by kino170878 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raintheory Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 heck of a way to get into service mode! sheesh! impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avrin Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 And then again, from what I see here, the function of address 0113 on the DH10P seems quite standard for the Second generation. Setting it to to 24 removes the volume limit, gives you 2 Custom Equalizers, enables Japanese, Chinese and Korean (I might be wrong here) languages for the menus, but completely disables the titling function.On the other hand, setting it to 20 (North America) should remove the volume limit, enable the equalizers, and keep the Latin titling function. Setting it to 23 (Japan) should give everything except menu languages (only English and Japanese remain), and keep the titling function, although now it should start with Katakana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neffi Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Actually kids, don't be like Neffi. It turns out there's a much easier way to get into DH10P service mode, and it was posted on these very forums back in 2006. I don't know how on earth I managed to stumble on this now and yet miss it when I was spending ages googling for a solution to the equaliser issue. I think it's the universe laughing at me!All you have to do is put the unit on 'Hold', hold down the VOL- button, and then press the following sequence on the main unit:>>| >>| |<< |<< >>| |<< >>| |<< >|| >||aka FF FF RW RW FF RW FF RW PLAY PLAYVoila, service mode. You still need a remote as the unit's own screen doesn't display anything. Unlike the surgical method above it launches you straight into the display check mode, so you can start from step 7 above. PS Avrin I think you're right about regional settings - checking my Japanese RH10 it's set to 23. Although, when I set the DH10P to 23 I still can't title - I suspect this unit just doesn't title period as it's not a recorder - there's no 'Edit' Menu there. All your predictions about the languages ring true though. PPS Apologies if anyone needlessly butchered their DH10P because I can't Google properly! For my next surgery I'll stick to transplanting Hi-MD discs into prettier MD cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aportlock Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Is there a setting to change the display timeout from 30sec to say 1 minute.Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avrin Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Is there a setting to change the display timeout from 30sec to say 1 minute.AllanAFAIK, no. This stuff is hard-coded in the firmware (along with many other stupidities). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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