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Good to hear it's still working. Yes, the N10, NH1, NH3D and DH10P all share the same USB connector. None of them charge over USB, just transfer tracks. All of them require the cradle to charge. The DH10P can be connected via USB direct or the cradle also has a USB port in it. The NH1 / NH3D were originally planned to have USB connections also in the cradle, but this idea was cancelled during the pre-production phase.
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Hi, This is very helpful as I have been looking for a solution for my NH1 - http://forums.sonyinsider.com/topic/30290-need-mz-nh1-cradle/ - so it looks like the N10 and Nh1 share the same connector as the NW-HD3 so your solution should also work for the NH1! - Yesterday
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I bought the cable from the seller and, when connected to my Dell Latitude E4310 notebook, it transfers files to a disc in the NH1 and plays tracks on the NH1 using the controls in Sonic Stage (but does not charge it as was pointed out earlier in this thread) plus the display comes up so I have confirmed that the NH1 is still in good working order and worth investing in. And now for the interesting bit - the seller I bought the cable from confirmed that the " SONY MZ N10 MINIDISC CHARGING STAND DOCK BCA WM21U " will work and charge the mz-nh1 but is a very very tight fit for the unit, which pretty much confirms that the connector on the NH1 and N10 are the same. And this post - http://forums.sonyinsider.com/topic/31268-sony-bca-nwhd3-usb-adapter-for-mz-n10-data-transfer-charging/ - confirms that the BCA-NWHD3 adapter fits the N10 and charges it so it should, therefore, also fit the NH1 - this would probably be the most cost effective way to solve my charging/connectivity issue on the NH1 as there is one for sale on ebay for £35 - see here: -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Sony-BCA-NW-HD3-NW-HD5-USB-Sync-Adapter-for-Atrac-mp3-Players/284154661536?epid=1122936714&hash=item4228f00aa0:g:294AAOSwuLJgCFQQ
- Last week
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Depends on the disk inserted. NH900 and all HiMD units will play both HiMD formatted and legacy-formatted (NetMD or MD) disks. You never need a driver for HiMD, you always need a driver for legacy, even in a HiMD unit. If you got the N707 going (I am assuming 64-bit Windows) then the same driver will be needed that you just installed (that you got from our downloads sections).
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Installing Sonic Stage on Windows 10 & driver signing
Richard replied to freddyjollo's topic in Software
I am running Windows 10 Pro 20H2, build 19042.804 and I still have the option in the advanced startup menu. Which version are you on? * Moved to Software sub-forum -
Try this https://www.google.com/search?q=lip-4wm+charger&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjm89LvkoTvAhWf2HMBHQjtAM4Q2-cCegQIABAC&oq=lip-4wm+charger&gs_lcp=ChJtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1pbWcQAzoECCMQJzoECAAQGFCw_wFYj4kCYMuZAmgAcAB4AIAB1wKIAaAHkgEFMi0xLjKYAQCgAQHAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img&ei=piA3YOaIH5-xz7sPiNqD8Aw&bih=800&biw=1280&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1
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Many thanks for the reply sfbp. Took ages to get the drivers to update, then got excited to see Hi-Md show up! Thought I'd cracked it but could not get it to change to net MD..I then realised I was using NH900 Hi Md unit that didn't need drivers!! Hooked up a Mz n707 and it all worked smoothly.
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Did you resolve this? I'm with same problem. The machine runs ALL MO test and stay stuck on Assy Mode 40.
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It seems that latest versions of W10 wont allow you to turn off driver signing? Any one else come up against this issue https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/sony-mz-rh1-windows-10-and-sonic-stage-4-3.181749/
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I have a sony laptop with nvidia graphics chip, when i updated Nvidia driver it keeps crashing loosing resolution , please what do i do to prevent the driver from crashing again?
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Thanks for putting other info in from the manual. Not so much issues, as pretty much dead. It had been robbed of a few parts (prior to me), including the DC-DC converter for the display. I did manage to get this working - although not brightly as I couldn't quite generate the -30V needed, but at least I could demonstrate the machine had some life. I already bored everyone with that one here: I thought mine was a Mk1 but I could be wrong as it definitely has the BU-801 socket as can be seen on the photo in the above thread. Mine is also missing the PS/2 keyboard interface board. That's fine, we have the detail on the chip now in the additions to my post above. No need for you to pull your machine apart. I forgot I had the Service Manual which fortunately listed the chip number and I managed to interpret from your photo the part used on yours. So we're good for any retrospective build of this sub-module. :-) Astounding prices! One could probably build that BU-801 module today for around 20USD/GBP/EUR once the DRAM chip was sourced. Kevin
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I have a Sony MZ-R501 which when pressure is applied to the casing, it switches itself off. This only happens when using a AA battery. The casing is in decent condition, is there anything I can do ?
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One thing that could shed some light into this mystery is if someone has the missing chapter from the MD-801RMKII manual (Chapter 6; 3 pages). It's really odd but any manual I uncover online has this chapter omitted. I am assuming anyone with the original manual has these pages intact? Chime in! :-)
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Cool to talk to another 801 owner. Sorry to hear that yours is having issues. Mine is from 12/1999 so a relatively newer model. The photos are the best I can do with the BU-801 and it took a lot of patience to capture what I did. I would have to take the unit apart to inspect the chip with a magnifying glass if I was to get any further detail. The photo is just meant as a general guide since I had no idea whatsoever what this part was when I saw it mentioned first in the MD-801RMKII manual and second in the RC-801 manual. The part originally sold for $249 (MD for $2,499)! If anyone is seriously contemplating building one (that idea was also suggested to me) I will get down to the molecular level on this RAM chip. Chime in. FYI the older 801R (non-MKII) is not particularly desirable and probably comes accompanied with additional pickup issues these days. If you're attempting to flash start tracks with that one you have to install an additional interface unit (IF-8FR)! Good luck with that one. The IF-8FR is already included on the MKII. Thanks for including those attachments, sir. I don't have a physical RC-801 manual but I did find someone who was selling another RC-801 with the manual and got him to scan the English portions for me. Without these scans I could have damaged the controllers depending on the DIP switch settings. Other points to consider are... (1) Only one keyboard can be connected, to either the MD or the controller. (2) You cannot connect both controllers when using LOCAL + REMOTE mode, which sucks. If I had to guess what happened to my RC-FS20 I am assuming this is what the authorized shop did to my gear (or maybe used the wrong DB25 cables). I will concede that I did ask them to see if the controller limitation could be modified (as well as the keyboard limitation). If someone needs the additional manual scans, chime in. Gets down to pin assignments, tally signals, connecting a fader (might do someday), etc. Flash starting is really cool and something that radio stations could have really utilized well. I just wish I could get it working on my RC-FS20.
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Sony MZ-R50 Main Unit LCD Display Dimmed
BearBoy replied to shaizada's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Glad to hear you got your machine sorted Shaizada and hopefully your advice might help others in the future :-) -
Sony MZ-R50 Main Unit LCD Display Dimmed
shaizada replied to shaizada's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
I just wanted to update this forum on my solution so maybe it MIGHT help someone else in a similar situation. I went ahead and carefully took apart the unit. I was able to release the front display ribbon connector cable from the main circuit board and very gently clean the contacts with some 99% isopropyl alcohol. This is kind of dangerous as apparently (I learned about this later), that the contacts are leaded. If you clean them too much, you might simply "wipe" the contacts away and ruin the connector. Well, I did use a light touch and when I put it all back together, my LCD was back in business. So in my case, it was definitely an issue with oxidation. Unit is now back to its former glory -
Double-sigh. The NH1 does ***NOT*** charge from the cable alone. Sorry for raising false hope. The MZ-RH1 does, however. Further error by me - the LIP-4WM has only 2 terminals. So that other device would be safe. Doesn't buy you transfer to a PC though. To answer your other question, having computer hooked to stereo may be just as effective, and much less costly.
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I messaged the seller to query if it charges the NH1 or if it is just for data transfer - he is selling an NH1 (and an RH1) so he has the ability to test it as he is asking big money for it! Unfortunately some eBay sellers do tend to cash in on the rarity of accessories - from my perspective, the price is worth paying if I get the end result I am hoping for - I am hoping to connect a mini disc to my Denon UD-M30 receiver (as I am now permanently working from home) and thought the NH1 would look good on it's stand sat astride the mini hi-fi.
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HOW MUCH? And it's knac*ered! Robbing g... grrr.
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Thanks for the response, I did see the stand for sale in Germany and also one in USA but import duties now apply even from Germany so that would add more expense before finding out if the NH1 even works after a decade or more in storage. Do you think that this cable would power the up/charge the NH1 or would it be just for data sync? My NH900 no longer charges or powers up from the gumstick battery but I don't need to plug in the charger when it is connected to my notebook via mini USB cable for transferring files so I would hope that this is the same?
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Hard to tell from the description. I don't much like the sound of having to "move the adjusters" for the + and - terminals, when most Li-Ion batteries actually have 3 terminals. I'd be inclined to check out this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-USB-CABLE-FOR-MZ-NH1-MZ-NH3D-OR-MZ-DH10P-MINIDISC-PLAYERS/274693567699 Sorry I don't remember if it fails to charge without the stand but I think not; that stand is very nice but a cosmetic detail, especially since you can't do USB to it (if my memory serves correctly). I would also comment that you do NOT want to be always removing and reinserting the LIP-4WM which is a really tight fit. Once it becomes less than tight, your connection (to the battery terminals) may become quite unreliable. There is a stand for sale in Germany (no cable). Sigh.
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I did find this charger (currently out of stock) from a company that sells the LIP-4WM batteries - https://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_u-charger.htm - which might be suitable, when it is available again.
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Welcome! ETA: Sorry my bad, you mean the charger from the previous post. Doh! Stephen knows this stuff, I'm sure he'll comment when he wakes up (any time now...) I'm not sure I understand this part of your statement/question. BCA-MZNH1 is the Sony charger/dock. https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/support/portable-music-players-minidisc-portable/mz-nh1
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Hi, I am in England and have just discovered my MZ-NH1 (and LIP-4WM battery) in a box in my loft - I want to check it works before tracking down the elusive BCA-MZNH1 dock/charge stand and this charger might be ideal but the link is old and web search doesn't return any results. Do you have any details of the manufacturer/model of the charger to assist my search? Thanks pd
