Sargaso

The same thing is happening to me and I use google chrome. Except I don't get any error code.

Thanks for confirming that the remote is different. I'll just have to find one somewhere.

Yes, since they both came out at the same time, you might just be correct. I'll be on the lookout for a V33 on ebay.

Without a remote, I guess I'll never get to change sound settings on the V55. To bad. Thanks for the reply.

I have 3 remotes from DMC-T55, S55 and S33 and they all work on any of those 3 machines. However, none of the remotes work with any of the 3 DMC-V55's that I own. I have seen infomation that indicated that the same remote is used on the T55, S55, S33 and V55 but couldn't find anyone that could confirm whether or not this is true. Can you confirm this? Thanks

Does the V55 have a special remote that is different than the remotes for the S33, S55 and T55? I have not been able to find any information about the remote for the V55 except that it has a clip on the bottom.

About a thrid of the way down this web page begins the Sony Walkman collection. Good Luck, hope you find it. http://pocketcalculatorshow.com/walkman/page/2/

You might try to epoxy that lever back together.

The link shows what looks like some more dark ones. You might try the format again, maybe it didn't really reformat from HiMD. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-tdk-md-rxg-xa-74-pro-minidisc-minidisk-sammler-for-collectors-rar/282380921914?hash=item41bf36ec3a

Hi, Perhaps you may be able to get some info from here: http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/onkyo/md-185x.shtml It shows a link to download a partial service manual for an Onyko MD-185X good luck

Stephen, It may be that the LIP-4WM protection circuit may be a bit confused. I've had protected LiOn cells do this when they think there has been a short circuit or the output voltage gets to low. Just charging the cell gets it back operating again. I also bought a couple of those 350mah cells from the Ebay seller Jimma referenced and both of them were 350mah. Maybe I got lucky.

If you don't have the remote attached, make sure HOLD is not turned on. If Hold is turned on then the display won't show anything and it won't play, it will just look like it's dead.

I just removed the battery and put my NH1 (with remote attached) into the charging adaptor and It played just fine.

I have tried the "burn out" methods, including both the short duration 12v application to the battery and using a dumb charger like sony mz-r90/91 to charge. The battery does indeed get warm in the r91 during charging but didn't really fix anything. I'm sure some internal resistance can be reduced by these methods in some batteries depending on the conditions that caused the high resistance but it's just never worked in any of the batteries that came with any of the MD's I've purchased and of course none of the HQRP batteries. Anyway I'm pleased with the performance of the Sofirn NiMH's I'm currently using. Actually this post confused me. I didn't realize the OP was needing a replacement for the LIP-4WM. Should have looked at the topic closer. I wish I could report a good source for the LIP-4WM but they just don't seem to be out there. I keep thinking that some Chinese company will come out with a replacement but have not seen any yet, maybe someday.