BIGHMW

I already own both tham AND the MDR-NC22 units, all I asked is if I had to use one, which one you would go for.

I have just purchased a pair of custom Etymotic silicone eartips for my NC22's on eBay that have more isolation and enhance the frequencies without having to much re-EQ everything. More noise isolation and cancellation = louder audio output with less amp drive, therefore prolonging the life of both the amp and the battery and the better everything sounds. BTW, these same eartips are also available for Skullcandy, Koss, Apple, and Shure IEM's as well as Sony and Etymotic, here is the suction off of eBay for all of you who want higher output from your N.U.D.E EX pipes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

Will it also work with the Canadian NH700 also? I own both a Canadian and also an Australian version of this great unit, also will the remote work with the AM, TV and weather band functions as well as FM (on the 39LT)?

I'll definitely do that with my MZ-NH700 too. The only issue I may have is during live recordings at gigs is changing the AA battery after every act that plays that night (good thing I carry spares and tons of them at that in my media bag), especially when I use Linear PCM mode with a 1GB Hi-MD (up to 93 UNCOMPRESSED MINUTES on it, WOW!) for transfer to CD. Otherwise to conserve battery life I could just use standard ATRAC SP on MD instead, after all, not many who are not in the know about ATRAC compression (unlike us) can tell the difference between it and uncompressed audio.

You can EASILY find an MZ-NH700 (and an Australian one at that and not a European one, not recommended due to the notorious EU volume cap) and MZ-RH1 Hi-MD units both ala carte and in bundle deals through MiniDisc Access at http://www.minidiscaccess.com/generic76.html I myself own two MZ-NH700 units (and 2 D-NE700 ATRAC CD units, one of each I use and one in case they break or get stolen), and I think they offer the most bang for your buck, and, oh yeah, as for the AC adapter, if you live here in the USA you can get the North American version of that same AC power adapter through Sony DAPC at http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ecom/acce...ortable%20Audio I know it says it works with the MZ-NH900 but it is also included stock with th MZ-NH700 too.

Thanks, Ishii. BTW, I will have those AtracLife/MDCF-exclusive closeup shots (all-new ones at that!) of my new MDR-NC22 in action with my RM-MC40ELK and MZ-NH700 Hi-MD Walkman by the end of the week for you to present for your blog.

How about the D-NE7xx and NE5xxx/NF6xx series of Atrac CD Walkmans, as I do own a D-NE700 Silver.

Good point. I am glad to announce I am keeping BOTH sets, besides, the IEM's are easier to wear with headgear (hats, caps, etc.) on, while the cans are more audiophile-like sound-oriented, but certainly can't be worn with hats.

In other words, record, produce, and monitor with straight sound in the studio, then tweek the EQ to your preference when listening to it on your Walkman, but certainly not while recording/mixing/mastering, as EQ settings vary from unit-to-unit. Your knowledge will definitly help me on my next project, whether it be as gangsta-rapper AK47 or messing around with another genre or project is up to me, but, it WILL be mixed straight, everything else I have ever cut in my 13-year career has, so I will stick to it. BTW, I do NOT use any EQ-ing in either HMW Studio One or on my home theatre, as I have SRS-Z750 speakers and MDR-V300 cans in the studio as monitors, and vintage circa-1980's Pioneer 15" 3-way systems on my home theatre, I save the EQ's for Walkman use ONLY, as some setups (unit/phones/EQ-ing) do vary.

In other words, keep both and use them depending on both preference and taste, as I myself don't ride buses, trains or planes, but for the richer, thicker bass sound, use the cans, right?

I kind of like both, but if I had to rely on one long-term, which would you go for? Here are the vital stats of both for you to digest: MDR-NC6: Driver units: 38 mm, Neodymium Max. power: 100 mW Impedence (with power on): 20 ohms (with power off): 65 ohms Sensitivity: (with power on): 106 dB/mW (with power off): 104 dB/mW Frequency response: 30 Hz-15 kHz Range of noise attenuation: 40-1500 Hz, more than 10 dB at 300 Hz MDR-NC22: Driver units: 13.5 mm, Neodymium Max. power: 50 mW Impedence (with power on): 20 ohms (with power off): 8.5 ohms Sensitivity: (with power on): 102 dB/mW (with power off): 100 dB/mW Frequency response: 8 Hz-22 kHz Range of noise attenuation: 50-1500 Hz, more than 12 dB at 200 Hz Of course, the annoying thing about the NC22's is the over-long 1.5 meter cord while my NC6's (after I desoldered the 1.5 meter cord on them) have a more remote-friendly cord (similar to the JE Version of these same units) taken from an old pair of MDR-EX71SL's and I kept the extension cord as an option. Your opinions await, I am all ears, but my management recommends I go with the MDR-NC6 headphones despite the stats instead of IEM's to keep the hearing I have left.

I kind of like both, but if I had to rely on one long-term, which would you go for? Here are the vital stats of both for you to digest: MDR-NC6: Driver units: 38 mm, Neodymium Max. power: 100 mW Impedence (with power on): 20 ohms (with power off): 65 ohms Sensitivity: (with power on): 106 dB/mW (with power off): 104 dB/mW Frequency response: 30 Hz-15 kHz Range of noise attenuation: 40-1500 Hz, more than 10 dB at 300 Hz MDR-NC22: Driver units: 13.5 mm, Neodymium Max. power: 50 mW Impedence (with power on): 20 ohms (with power off): 8.5 ohms Sensitivity: (with power on): 102 dB/mW (with power off): 100 dB/mW Frequency response: 8 Hz-22 kHz Range of noise attenuation: 50-1500 Hz, more than 12 dB at 200 Hz Of course, the annoying thing about the NC22's is the over-long 1.5 meter cord while my NC6's (after I desoldered the 1.5 meter cord on them) have a more remote-friendly cord (similar to the JE Version of these same units) taken from an old pair of MDR-EX71SL's and I kept the extension cord as an option. Your opinions await, I am all ears, but my management recommends I go with the MDR-NC6 headphones despite the stats instead of IEM's to keep the hearing I have left.

http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?act=P...amp;qpid=119339 I just now de-tweeked all the EQ's on all of my units, (including both my cars and the home theatre, my AK47 hustle bag and my preferred setup with the MZ-NH700) and just simply turned up the volume.... it sounds just as great straight as it did with the EQ at a lesser volume, thanks dude. There INDEED is more headroom and detail on the music with the EQ off and the volume up as opposed to having the EQ settings at such a high level, but maybe it is time to invest in a headphone amp so I can enjoy straight non-EQ'ed music at a louder volume, something like this: http://www.Electric-Avenues.com

http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?act=P...amp;qpid=119339 I just now de-tweeked all the EQ's on all of my units, (including both my cars and the home theatre, my AK47 hustle bag and my preferred setup with the MZ-NH700) and just simply turned up the volume.... it sounds just as great straight as it did with the EQ at a lesser volume, thanks dude. There INDEED is more headroom and detail on the music with the EQ off and the volume up as opposed to having the EQ settings at such a high level, but maybe it is time to invest in a headphone amp so I can enjoy straight non-EQ'ed music at a louder volume, something like this: http://www.Electric-Avenues.com

Great news from the siste forum on ATRAC Life: If I had to wear either set onboard a plane or to shut out outside noise (like traffic or street constuction noise), I would DEFINITELY use the NC22's over the NC6's, although the NC6's have batter bass (although it "drowns out" other frequencies) and rate 106 dB (at 24 ohms) as opposed to the NC22's 102 dB (at 20 ohms, both with noise canceling on), but also IMO, 106 dB would be WAY too much for IEM's, even though the NC 11/11A had that, and the A34SP/L passive vertical in-the-ear setup had a whopping 108 dB sensitivity at only 16 ohms There is a guy on the MDCF on this very same topic who DID reommend I de-tweek the EQ and just simply boost the volume in order to get more headroom that my EQ may be killing, maybe it's time for me to invest in either a Boostaroo or a CMOY amp or even the award-winning (and highly-backed up with a lifetime no-fault warranty at that!) PAVA2 amp (available though http://www.Electric-Avenues.com or on eBay).

If I had to wear either set onboard a plane or to shut out outside noise (like traffic or street constuction noise), I would DEFINITELY use the NC22's over the NC6's, although the NC6's have batter bass (although it "drowns out" other frequencies) and rate 106 dB (at 24 ohms) as opposed to the NC22's 102 dB (at 20 ohms, both with noise canceling on), but also IMO, 106 dB would be WAY too much for IEM's, even though the NC 11/11A had that, and the A34SP/L passive vertical in-the-ear setup had a whopping 108 dB sensitivity at only 16 ohms There is a guy on the MDCF on this very same topic who DID reommend I de-tweek the EQ and just simply boost the volume in order to get more headroom that my EQ may be killing, maybe it's time for me to invest in either a Boostaroo or a CMOY amp or even the award-winning (and highly-backed up with a lifetime no-fault warranty at that!) PAVA2 amp (available though http://www.Electric-Avenues.com or on eBay).

Cool tip, thanks. My management, Len Enders of Label Cove Entertainment would agree with you, he has been in the music business as both a performer and as a producer for over 20 years, and I have to admit that in my project studio, HMW Studio One, here at BIGHMW.com Headquarters in Port Townsend, Washington, I both monitor my recordings and listen to them with no EQ on my Sony SRS-Z750 speakers and MDR-V300 headphones straight out. It sounds pretty good on those, and I actually prefer that setup and will retune my ears to hear more with less (volume, EQ tweeking, etc.) effort.

Hey thanks. I am glad that I can contribute to this site, keep up the great work on this and also the MDCF, as this review is also simulcast on it as well.

Internal AA Battery compatibility would be nice for those of us who don't want to put up (or are fed up) with rechargeables. Color Choice (preferably "high tech" Silver or "classic" Black for example) would also be nice.

I see, as a matter of fact I also took up electronics training over 20 years ago but never knew that even back then. I will try to tune my ears to hear more bass with less tweeking of my onboard EQ, as a matter of fact I have just purchased a pair of custom Etymotic silicone eartips for my NC22's on eBay that have more isolation and enhance the frequencies without having to re-EQ everything. More noise isolation and cancellation = louder audio output with less amp drive, therefore prolonging the life of both the amp and the battery and the better everything sounds. BTW, these same eartips are also available for Skullcandy, Koss, Apple, and Shure IEM's as well as Sony and Etymotic, here is the suction off of eBay for all of you who want higher output from your N.U.D.E EX pipes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

I tried it, you are indeed right about the volume and the headroom, but I have always been a stickler for more tingle (treble) and more BOOM (bass), but I DO see where you are coming from, but doesn't the higher output from the amp wear both the amp (and the life of the unit) and the battery down faster? Good thing I have a LinkPlus (CTA Digital IP-SRS) SRS-88 Surround Sound Headphone Converter, which also amplifies (to some extent, but not to that of a Boostaroo, too big to lug around!) the volume allowing me to exploit that headroom you mentioned. At least that will save both battery and amplifier life on my unit.

(see http://www.atraclife.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3093 for update)

UPDATE: Got one already dead stock (display model) from a dealer in Australia through eBay, it came in just one week after being shipped registered airmail from Down Under

Agreed. Especially the Hi-MD and ATRAC CD 7-level units (like my MZ-NH700 and D-NE700 units, see ID on left for markets of origin), I think that they are the best value on the Walkman lineup, combining the 5/6-level's internal "AA" battery capacity (D-NE500/NF600 and MZ-NH600) with the 8/9-level's LCD remote-compatibility and advanced feaures (D-NE900 and MZ-NH900)

Check out what they have to say on the sister forum, the MDCF: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=18875