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1kyle

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Everything posted by 1kyle

  1. Thanks everyone -- I've just "Hacked" my NH1 -- changed from UK (81) to 05 (Hong Kong / Taiwan -- volume nice now (from 25 and up) - especially on a nice set of Sennheiser Cans. Cheers for the hack -K
  2. Anyway the most useful part is being able to use External Batteries --so if you are away from power and / or don't want to use a "Home Made" charger then just using the 6V wires to a battery back will be fine (and you can use 4X 2200mh re-chargeables). That should give you as much power as you need and there are plenty of "cases" you can stick 4X 1.5V batteries in. Have the wire coming out of your "battery pack" with the propiertary pin plugged into your NH1. Now you've got unlimited power. Cheers -K
  3. Nice work What I'd also like to see is there any way of dumping the TOC so we can see where the SCMS bits are -- I don't see why a digital recording of YOUR OWN music shouldn't be able to be handled HOW YOU WANT IT. No court on the planet will prosecute you for attempting to retrieve YOUR OWN DATA. BTW if you do get something working on Linux then I'd be very interested. Incidentally there might be some way of using the Windows Drivers for the MD on the Linux box in the way some Wireless Network cards can be made to work using the NDIS wrapper. For example here's a firm (I don't work for them --but have used the product to get some Wireless cards to work on Linux with a laptop). Read some of the product details and you'll get an idea of what I mean. http://www.linuxant.com I have a feeling also that the encryption is done in the Firmware (i.e the actual device) so just by making some type of API calls you might be able to call the Soft decryption routine for the LPCM in the software. Ensure what you are doing is legal --especially in the US where the Internet Police are everywhere -- but trying to get your stuff to run on Linux is a perfectly legal operation however. Good luck and keep us posted. Cheers -K
  4. Walkman used to be the "De-facto" definition for Portable Music --like Xerox meant copiers and Hoove meant Vacuum cleaners. Ipod took over --we;ve even got "Pod-casting" now --although thses are NOT restricted to IPODS --because they appealed to an "MTV" type generation, introduced the concept of buying "Downloadable Music", looked OK and initially sold to people who didn't care too much about the quality so long as they "Looked right" -- The White headphones were a runaway success there of course. Sony took their eye of the ball -- but as people are finding the restrictions on "Downloaded Music" irksome, and the manangement of HUGE volumes of music (on an HD device) to be quite cumbersome --and of course the problem of what to do if it breaks or you need a new device or it becomes full is now beginning to be felt by a lot of these early IPOD adopters SONY has a real opportunity to re-market the HI-MD removable disk concept. Just needs a little bit of targeted marketing. As for VAIO's --I can't see them disappearing (at least not the laptops) --these apart from the HIDEOUSLY expensive large Apple cinema display have probably the best screens I've ever seen on a laptop (and I'm a photographer so I do a lot of Computer Image processing). No actually I don't actually see the MD going away any time soon --and surprisngly there's still quite a demand out these for top of the line NET-MD shelf units such as the excellent JB980 --especially at the discounted prices you can find out there. The MD is just TOO convenient for recording, broadcasting etc -- no other device comes close and who wants to go back to using DAT again. Cheers -K
  5. Not sure if this topic has been addressed before --but I just don't like the larger HI-MD jewel cases -- anyway I've swapped most of them now for the older style and size cases. It's much easier to take 2 or 3 (or more) of the older cases in your pocket than the newer ones. I can easily distinguish between my MDLP and HI-MD discs as I've 've got (from a shop in Germany) BLUE cases for my HI-MD discs in --they look quite stylish as well. Cheers -K
  6. If you actually open it you'll find eventually that there are 2 leads for the 6v Charging. The other leads go into the cirrcuit board which reads the condition of the battery and operates the display ( ---30MIN or whatever ) when you are charging the battery. and then switches the charger off when the timer has counted down. These have NO function when OPERATING the device . So we are trying to address 2 problems here --- 1) Operating the device from an external power supply -- that's the EASY bit which the USB cable and the 2 leads do. 2) Charging the battery --- that's also easy -- any domestic 4V charger will do --a Motorola phone charger will do with the ends cut off and attach to the two leads of the LIP-4WM battery. Charge it up for approx 60 mins when discharged Whilst the device operates at 4.5 V it's operating range is fine from 6V - 3.5V. Some circuitry inside is also 6V-4.8V DC-DC inverter . We are just trying to get the BASIC charging and playing functions to work -- of course I can't replicate the internal timing circuitry and relays to switch the charger off. For me the most important part was to get a decent source of PORTABLE EXTERNAL power so I'm not dependent on the Sony battery alone. For charging the method WILL work -- but the cradle is sufficient for me BTW check this out -- Your unit will work WITH THE BATTERRY REMOVED and the unit just plugged into the cradle --this also shows that my method will work for supplying external power to the devices. Cheers -K
  7. That's why the cradle doesn't connect to the USB (Or you can't have the unit attached to the computer when in the cradle). Cheers -K
  8. Was a typo should of course be 6V the connector wires go direct to the 6V on the cradle That's why you have to "cut the USB end" off the cable and use your cable so the unit thinks it's actually attached to the cradle. (Known in the Antique furniture trade as "Poodle-Faking"). At the other end (where you have the loose wires (You've cut the USB plug off BTW) you only need the red and black wires which you can connect to ane external 6V power source (correct polarity of course). Remeber the only contact to the NH1 and the power supply is via the cradle --so at least 2 of those pins MUST carry current from the 6V in to the device. You could of course break open the cradle --but cutting a cable is a lot cheaper !!!! Cheers -K
  9. Volt meter across the Red + Black gives 6V -- don't swap the polarity though or it won't work. Cheers -K
  10. I've made one using the USB cable (I had 2 cables so could afford to "Cut one" up). Mine works fine and you can even charge in the car as well ( Need a 12V / 3 V inverter) . Also works with my NZ-10 unit. Maybe I'll buy some cables and market these at 40 USD a pop !. It's simple once you've discovered the two leads that carry the current. If you haven't done this before pratice on some old cables since the Sony cables are not always easy to get hold of. Cheers -K
  11. This while needing some further work looks promising for people who've got time to hack around with computers. http://tuxmobil.org/player_linux_survey_sony.html particularly the section on NOTMD . Cheers -K
  12. The "Cable" solution works fine Now to "add" a battery holder and I'm done. You DO need to get the proper cables (The plug into the Unit is a SONY proprietary one so You'll have to cannibalize a cable). Cheers -K
  13. Hi Andrew -- Also from "Gods County" (Yorkshire UK -- But E. Yorks not N. Yorks) Hope you were OK in the recent floods And enjoy the 900. Cheers -K
  14. Nice buy -- I still like the NH1 (maybe I'm a bit of a fashion freak) --but for GBP 99 a NH900 can't be faulted so well done and enjoy. Cheers -K
  15. The USB ===> NH1 cable is the same as the USB====>NZ10 (NET-MD) one so I'm "Breaking" one to find out which two pins carry the current. When I've done this not only will I have "Rechargeable" via "Bog standard chargers" --I'll also be able to make myself an "External Battery Pack". Will keep you posted on how I progress with this. Since the MZ10 (NET-MD) allows you to connect an external power supply to the cradle and has a Separate USB connector to connect the cradle to the computer -while connected to an external current source then this approach should work. (The external USB connector on the cradle is the same as the USB cable that you plug directly into the device when not using the cradle (again NZ10 --Not NH1). If it doesn't work then I've only broken one cable and since I have two --so what. I would really like an external power pack for the NH1. If you have "Soldering Iron Phobia" then don't try it. Worth a try. I'll keep you posted and if it DOES work I'll upload some pics. Cheers -K.
  16. The Internet will always work -- but I suspect some retailers like Sevenoaks will probably get it on request. Sony centres (those that haven't closed down) will get it and I'm sure the units will will be seen along that Mecca of Electronic gizmos (Tottenham Ct Road in London) . Cheers -K
  17. Actually with the proviso contained in my original post (Thread linked to above) there is no 3 computer limit either (I've tested the method using 5 computers). An important note of course is NO PURCHASED MUSIC in your library. Your OWN Digital (or analog) recordings which you've imported into your library will also work fine. I hadn't done that test when I made that original post about moving / copying libraries but have since tested that as well. Cheers -K
  18. 1kyle

    Lp4 Quality?

    What is the quallity like on those units which have Both a CD and a MD which do CD==>MD copying in 2X or 4X real time compared with "Traditional Real time X 1). Is this done digitally or through some type of "SS" built into the unit's firmware. I DO know that even using SS that the JB980 recorded LP2 discs "seem" --can't prove it however as I don't have any WAVE / Spectrum analysers to sound marginally better than LP2 recorded discs om a NH1 or NZ10. So top notch equipment may also make a difference. For a lot of Classical music LP2 can sound suprisingly good --possible because things like acoustic string instruments are easier to transcode (less artifacts) than some modern music which has a lot of percussion sounds. One of the most difficult sounds to re-produce accurately due to the almost infinite number of harmonics is that of a large bell. Digitising percussion / electronic sounds is therefore much more problematic than that say of a classical acoustic guitar played by for example Julian Bream. This really shows that to get the best quality 1) You need to have a good source -- decent CD quality or good studio mix is usually more than adequate. 2) The equipment you are recording on must be OK --Today's hardware is usually OK so no problemes here -even the cheaper MD recorders are fine --some better than others but differences not large. 3) If you are using Software it must avoid introducing extra artifacts etc. While we might not really like SS it doesn't do too bad in this regard -- especially SS 3.0 / 3.1. 4) The "Music" must be suitable for the format you want to transcode to. PCM will obviously have the least "loss" in recording -- but in general unless you have very specialized music tastes LP2 is probably sufficient for the vast majority of people out there when using legacy equipment. Cheers -K
  19. You're right of course !!! --Someone's obviously awake this morning Cheers -K
  20. Was on a train yesterday evening (believe it not it's a very rare animal but you CAN ocasionally find a train that works in the UK on a Sunday without having the luck of a Lottery winner) listening to Mozart's Tosca (might not be everyone's favourite but a real change from all the"House" thump that seems to be around these days) on a decent pair of Sennheisers. The guy opposite was listening to his Ipod and asked me "What's that device you've got" (my NH1). Anyway I told him and he tried --Opera wasn't his first choice but he was so impressed with the sound quality compared with the Ipod that he was going to order one when he got home. He liked the look also of the NH1 and couldn't believe what his Ipod sounded like when he tried my Cans (Sennheiser top of the line Cans --HD 650) -- instead of "the White headphones" --nor could I --it was really hideous. He'd never heard of MD's before and thought that all portable music had to sound pretty horrible as per Ipod but was just something you "tolerated" for the convenience of having music available while travelling. Anyway he was really pleased you certainly can get decent sound on the move and it doesn't have to be Opera either. So SONY we are doing your job for you -- MARKET THIS STUFF -- and really show how the audio quality difference --especially at HI-SP and PCM can make the IPOD not even make the STARTING BLOCKS. So another convert --the medium doesn't have to DIE --SONY --lots of life in it yet. Cheers -K
  21. Just a quickie -- reviewing some of the MD gear I've had and still have I was wondering what units you found to be the NICEST LOOKING --not necessarilily the best featured device. My preference is 1) The old RZ-90 (SP only) -- built like a battleship, all metal, nice tactile feel (ridged), easy screen to read, music navigation easily possible from the main unit, backlit remote --lovely piece of work. External battery use possible as well like the NetMD NH10 --of course too early for computer up / downloads --no USB (USB hadn't even appeared when this unit was first sold). 2) HI-MD NH1 -- the tiny screen doesn't bother me as I usually use 74 / 80 min discs so I know what's on the disc and if I'm on a train I'll listen to the whole disc anyway -- in HI-SP or LP2 mode yoy've got around 2hrs (and a bit more) per disc which is fine by me for a typical journey even if you take 2 or 3 discs with you. The remote on this is nice anyway. Drwaback is no external battery possible but I've yet to have battery problems with this unit. 3) NET-ND NH10 also very "Kewl" looking and has a decent external battery holder as well as built in battery. Remote pretty horrible though. The modern looking things like NHF800 look and feel "too plasticky" for me. Whilst the display of the RH10 is great -- the unit doesn't have the Solid feel of the other units and can't record DIRECTLY in legacy modes. As an aside I get the feeling that the RH10 is an "Orphan device" -- it's really going Nowhere. A 3rd gen unit will probably have the solidity of the NH1 with the screen of the RH10 and allow legacy (SP/LP2/LP4) direct recordings (assuming Sony don't give up on the format). Actually also OT to the post but the HI-MD shelf unit LAM X1 is due to appear in the shops in the UK later next month --so that is good news as far as the continuation of the format is concerned. Cheers -K
  22. Belive it or not some very early portables did actually have an Optical OUT (probably in the days before people even thought about Music Piracy. If you are lucky enough to have one of those then do it that way Optical out ====> Optical in on the HI-MD device. If the unit is old enough you might not even have SCMS to worry about --although that's fairly easily bypassed. Otherwise with relatively little loss of quality use the TOTAL RECORDER method of you've got a decent sound card in your computer. (How to do this is explained in various threads on these boards) (I know the original poster was mentioning a 710 -- but this post is for anybody iwho is still using using ANY Pre NET-MD stuff). I still think the sexiest looking portable unit EVER was the old RZ-90 --Easy screen, scrollable / navigable on the main unitdecent backlit remote, lovely tactile feel, built like a battleship, external battery possible. OK O.T but I had to mention it. Cheers -K
  23. UMD in theory sounds OK -- We don't need zillions of different standards and incompatable players -- BUT without RE-(WRITEABLE) Media this project has about as much chance of getting off the ground as a Snowball has of withstanding the fires of Hell. I think SONY is for once on the right track even if it's unwillingly being dragged into the 21 st. century. The only reason CD's have so far stood the test of time is 1) Compatable - (I'm talking of "bog standard CD's" not SACD or those abominations called "Copy Protected CD's"). CD's can be played just about anywhere on the planet in 99.9999% of CD players out there including computers. 2) No DRM B/S which stops LEGITIMATE users from handling THEIR OWN MUSIC as they see fit. 3) High quality --usually -- 16 bit 44,100 kbs is of high enough quality for pretty well all domestic / non professional MUSIC playing. DVD's with special sound and multi channel might benefit from 24 / 32 bit at a higher bit rate but that's not the point. 4) The owner of the CD can play the music on whatever music device he / she wants without going through a horrendous amount of hassle. Backing up music to any computer he / she owns is also OK with CD's --no hassle other than TIME. Any new format must offer the convenience of CD's without restricting the owner of the music / purchaser of the music to be able to play it anywhere. If there is no WRITE capability on these discs --then what's the point. I'm sure factories in CHINA have probably already got "hacked" re-writable UMD's so it will come out into the market place soon I think whether or not SONY and others are actually ready. Still it's nice to see SONY even acknowledging the fact that there are users out there of other systems and Hardware. Cheers. -K
  24. Apparently will be introduced into the UK in July This at least looks good. Cheers -K
  25. 1kyle

    Lp4 Quality?

    Hi Volta -- I like the idea of storing CD's to FLAC. Easy to do on the computer but do you burn directly to DVD and if you do how do you span media. I might go this route myself -- I like FLAC it's a good loseless compression " and it means you can always get at your music whatever new media come out without all the DRM stuff in it. I think what I'll do is store it all on a HD temporarily and then use my backup siftware to transfer the data to a tape streamer or DVD's (avoids the problem of spanning data). After backup I can delete the HD files. Funny thing is although I've currently got libraries on the computer I never use the computer for playing music. DVD's / TV are another matter but Music I prefer on a player with decent speakers or Sennheiser Cans. Question -- Do you have any catalguing software for your FLAC files or do you just use a Spreadsheet (EXCEL) or something like that for finding tracks etc. Cheers -K BTW was in Belgium recently as I often do photo shoots / News outside the Commission and Nato -- of course also in "Tourist Areas" like The Grand Place etc.-- but I know a lot of people who work at Berlaymont --Schumann district at the EU commission --so am often in "The Hairy Canary" and other Irish bars when I'm there. Cheers -K
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