Looking for an AC Adapter for MZ-1

[TopDog]

Hi, first post on this forum.

I'm looking for an AC adapter for Sony MZ-1. Needs to be 10.5 volt output at 1amp. I'm having a hard time finding a universal adapter that fits the bill. Does anyone know where I can original OEM adapter or a universal that will work? Thanks in advance.

[Richard]

Hi! Welcome to MDCF

* Moved to appropriate section of forum

[RobShaz]

Whatever you do *don't* try using a 12 volt adaptor because you'll damage the unit.

[jaylen]

If you haven't already, try checking out universal adapters that state that they are "for digital cameras." I've seen them with high V and mA (1000-2000 usually). For starters, things like the Energizer ER-AC1 might work, but it doesn't state the mA/A. Good luck!

[Ishiyoshi]

Hi, first post on this forum.

I'm looking for an AC adapter for Sony MZ-1. Needs to be 10.5 volt output at 1amp. I'm having a hard time finding a universal adapter that fits the bill. Does anyone know where I can original OEM adapter or a universal that will work? Thanks in advance.

The part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor is # 157385612 (*please read post #16 for correct part number) and you can order it from Sony DAPC (if you are located in the States) for $11.95. Otherwise, contact your local Sony Service Center/Parts and Accessories with the part number as reference.

[jaylen]

The part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor is # 157385612 (*please read post #16 for correct part number) and you can order it from Sony DAPC (if you are located in the States) for $11.95.

Wow, I'm surprised anything super-old is that cheap coming from the DAPC. The replacement earpads (just the covering, not even including the memory foam underneath) of my Sony headphones are priced at almost US$50! Each!

[TopDog]

The part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor is # 157385612 (*please read post #16 for correct part number) and you can order it from Sony DAPC (if you are located in the States) for $11.95. Otherwise, contact your local Sony Service Center/Parts and Accessories with the part number as reference.

Thanks Ishiyoshi, you are da Man! Part ordered. I was really beginning to think I was going to have play Russian roulette with AC adapters. Thanks Again! :

[Ishiyoshi]

You are most welcome! I hope it's the right one .. well keep us posted.

[MDX-400]

Whatever you do *don't* try using a 12 volt adaptor because you'll damage the unit.

While this was true in 1992 and perhaps even 1999, today's switching adapters are much more precise in their output voltages and have better tolerances for variation.

The MZ-1/2P adapter is a brick to be sure. A large transformer-based adapter with the 10.5V 1000mA output as stated.

Most transformer-based adapters have very wide fluctuations in their outputs. Meaning an adapter that is rated for 9V will probably float over 12V with no load on it. As a load is applied the voltage goes down and it will begin to stabilise in output as the current draw gets closer to the rated current output for the adapter.

A switching adapter, on the other hand, will usually actually put out close to the voltage it's rated for, load or not. So using the float and load voltages for the MZ-1 adapter and applying them carefully with settings from a switching adapter may result in a better outcome than the fried MZ-1 documented on the EB so long ago.

If you get a switching adapter with multiple settings (universal) and err on the side of caution with the voltage settings, I'm sure you could get a compatible voltage for the MZ-1 to work with.

There is some danger in this (as we've seen the case documented on the EB) as the MZ-1/2P don't have any internal power protection as do new units (today's units will flash "Hi DC-in" or give a similar message if slightly overvoltaged). Overvoltage a 1 or 2P and you'll likely fry it. So I would use caution but I don't think you're guaranteed to burn it out as you would have done in the past, trying different transformer adapter voltages.

If I had a switching universal I'd try it myself on my 2P, but unfortunately I don't have one and the only switching adapters I do have are not enough voltage...

[symo]

On the same subject anyone know whee I can obtain a MZN510 power adpater in the uK?

[Ishiyoshi]

On the same subject anyone know whee I can obtain a MZN510 power adpater in the uK?

The MZ-N510 employs an AC Adaptor with a rated output of 3V, 500mA and rated input of 120V, 60Hz, 3W. Instead of acquiring its original bundled AC adaptor, you could get a Sony World Voltage Type AC Power Adaptor: AC-EC30A, rated output of 3V, 1000mA and rated input of 100-240V, 50/60Hz, 6W . It will work very well with your N510 and you should be able to get one easily from your local Sony store.

[symo]

The MZ-N510 employs an AC Adaptor with a rated output of 3V, 500mA and rated input of 120V, 60Hz, 3W. Instead of acquiring its original bundled AC adaptor, you could get a Sony World Voltage Type AC Power Adaptor: AC-EC30A, rated output of 3V, 1000mA and rated input of 100-240V, 50/60Hz, 6W . It will work very well with your N510 and you should be able to get one easily from your local Sony store.

Your knowledge astounds me.

The adapter you are talking about is it OK for UK 240V?

[Ishiyoshi]

The adapter you are talking about is it OK for UK 240V?

Yes, the AC-EC30A will work in UK 240V environment. It's a world voltage AC Adaptor; in fact, you can even acquire other 3V AC Adaptor of similar specifications. As for the AC-EC30A, the only additional item you may need to acquire is a UK adaptor plug, type G. For your reference, the AC-EC30A features a type A flat blade plug; hence the need for a UK type G adaptor plug.

[TopDog]

The part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor is # 157385612 and you can order it from Sony DAPC (if you are located in the States) for $11.95. Otherwise, contact your local Sony Service Center/Parts and Accessories with the part number as reference.

I received the part today. Sad to say it is the wrong part. I did not receive an AC adaptor (transformer) what I did get was an Adaptor, Change. Its a plug with two round prongs on it for use in countries outside of the US. Oh well guess my hunt for a AC adaptor goes on.

[Ishiyoshi]

I received the part today. Sad to say it is the wrong part. I did not receive an AC adaptor (transformer) what I did get was an Adaptor, Change. Its a plug with two round prongs on it for use in countries outside of the US. Oh well guess my hunt for a AC adaptor goes on.

I apologize for the wrong part number and will contact Sony DAPC for the correct part number; then perhaps you can return the plug and reorder the AC Adaptor from Sony DAPC. Once again, my apologies for any inconvenience caused.

[Ishiyoshi]

@TopDog: I called Sony Japan and managed to acquire the correct part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor - sorted by region:

US: 1-466-884-11

Japan: 1-466-887-11

UK: 1-466-886-11

Australia: 1-467-364-11

Unfortunately, Sony DAPC no longer stocks the original MZ-1 AC Adaptor but they have a replacement part – 1-475-555-41 with a price tag of $76.95. For your reference, the replacement adaptor AC-PBD1’s specifications:

•Rated Input:120V, 60Hz, 0.30A

•Rated Output: 10V, 1.3A

•Dimensions (Approx.): 2 x 2 3/4 x 1 1/4 in (w/h/d)

•Color: Black

I was assured by Sony Japan that the replacement AC Adaptor will work with the MZ-1, but please confirm with Sony DAPC before proceeding with the order. Once again, my apologies for any inconvenience caused.

[MDX-400]

$77 US? That's ludicrous! However, I was thinking the original adapter could not be as cheap as mentioned above...

Again, I would do what I said and try using a universal switching adapter instead, as it will probably work out okay...

[NJDUKE]

$77 US? That's ludicrous! However, I was thinking the original adapter could not be as cheap as mentioned above...

Again, I would do what I said and try using a universal switching adapter instead, as it will probably work out okay...

I just checked and ebay has a complete MZ-1 unit, one owner, original box and all cables, adaptor, etc., for sale. Current bid is at 99 cents. It might be worth bidding for it and you'll get the original adaptor. Seller is in the USA.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-Md-Walkman-MZ-1-M...VQQcmdZViewItem

Regards,

Ed

[farnco28]

@TopDog: I called Sony Japan and managed to acquire the correct part number for MZ-1's AC Adaptor - sorted by region:

US: 1-466-884-11

Japan: 1-466-887-11

UK: 1-466-886-11

Australia: 1-467-364-11

Unfortunately, Sony DAPC no longer stocks the original MZ-1 AC Adaptor but they have a replacement part – 1-475-555-41 with a price tag of $76.95. For your reference, the replacement adaptor AC-PBD1’s specifications:

•Rated Input:120V, 60Hz, 0.30A

•Rated Output: 10V, 1.3A

•Dimensions (Approx.): 2 x 2 3/4 x 1 1/4 in (w/h/d)

•Color: Black

I was assured by Sony Japan that the replacement AC Adaptor will work with the MZ-1, but please confirm with Sony DAPC before proceeding with the order. Once again, my apologies for any inconvenience caused.

======================

Where can I purchase the replacement AC adaptor ??????

[farnco28]

I just checked and ebay has a complete MZ-1 unit, one owner, original box and all cables, adaptor, etc., for sale. Current bid is at 99 cents. It might be worth bidding for it and you'll get the original adaptor. Seller is in the USA.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-Md-Walkman-MZ-1-M...VQQcmdZViewItem

Regards,

Ed

Hi Ed,

APPARENTLY This listing (110078568879) has been removed or is no longer available.

[PaoloB]

Hi Guys,

I have this MZ-1 unit which I fixed some time ago (eject). I haven’t touched it for a while, but unfortunately I forgot it permanently connected to a plugged original power supply.

A couple of days ago I tried to play some stuff, but the unit is now totally dead. 

So I checked the output of the power supply and to my surprise, the output was around 18 V vs nominal 10.5 V. 

The power supply itself is indeed basic, I would say the only component that might have failed is the big capacitor, I will replace it and check again.

Anyhow, whatever the issue behind, I would say that almost certainly the totally wrong voltage has fried some chips nearby the power connector on the analog board.

As I’m no electronic engineer, but I’d speculate some voltage regulators are cooked...

I’m not quite sure I’m willing to go for a debugging session back to back with a working unit, so I was just wondering if any of you has had the same unfortunate accident and, in case, has any suggestion to share.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Paolo

[NGY]

1 hour ago, PaoloB said:

I checked the output of the power supply and to my surprise, the output was around 18 V vs nominal 10.5 V. 

Hi Paolo,

Is your power adapter is one of those "bulky" ones, with a transformer inside? (I guess it is, because when the MZ-1 came to the market switchers were less usual.) If so, then the 18V when measured unloaded seems normal to me.

(This thread is discussing a similar case, although the portable there in question is a much younger one.)

[PaoloB]

12 minutes ago, NGY said:

Hi Paolo,

Is your power adapter is one of those "bulky" ones, with a transformer inside? (I guess it is, because when the MZ-1 came to the market switchers were less usual.) If so, then the 18V when measured unloaded seems normal to me.

(This thread is discussing a similar case, although the portable there in question is a much younger one.)

Hello,

thanks indeed for the feedback. Yes, it’s one of those power brick with a transformer (220 V). Didn’t consider the actual voltage goes with the load... So, it must be something different. 

I tried swapping both boards with known working ones from a donor unit and it came back to life (with a bench power supply), albeit with a disc error message (different calibrations?).

What is puzzling me is that a good unit draws some 10 mA even when off. The faulty one does not, indeed stone cold (0 mA). That’s why I suspect something is fried.

Additional point. The faulty unit had an original Ni-Cd battery pack in, which used to keep some faint charge. But now is totally dead. Maybe something went wrong as the battery failed.

[NGY]

You have some good points to begin with.

If the faulty one draws zero current, then it might just be the microfuse at the beginning of the power circuit. Look for PS401 on page 64-65 of the SM. This is a 2 Amp fuse, measures normally as a short circuit (i.e., a few milli-Ohms resitance only).

As for the battery thing: your pack might have just discharged below the treshold level set by the device, or died eventually. Normally, a fully discharged - or even a fully dead - battery should not cause any damage to the electronics behind (except for the acid leaking and oxidizing the contacts or other parts).

(You can probe your battery pack: try to charge it from your lab PSU, set at 6....8 Volts and 50...100 milli-Amps, for 20...30 seconds. Observe if it gets hot. Then measure again the voltage shown by the battery. If it is other than zero, repeat the process until you see min. 3 Volts - keeping always an eye on the temperature. In case your PSU does not have current limiting function, you can use a ~100 Ohm resistor in series with the battery. Now, if your battery happens to take the charge, you can try to continue charging it in the unit, with the good board.)

[PaoloB]

Hello, 

It seems you got it right! By a quick continuity check, PS401 seems to be open on the faulty unit. Will try to replace it by desoldering a good one from a donor board, I will keep you posted about the progress.

Thanks!

[PaoloB]

I just made a quick and dirty check by bridging the fuse and... it just works! Any suggestion on where to source an exact spare or equivalent? Even though some web links are suggesting that Sony 1-533-282-21 is a 2A/72V, the unit is reading a “50” on the small case, suggesting - maybe - 5A (which seems a tad overrated)...

Thanks!

[NGY]

I am glad to see that early unit coming back to life.

2 hours ago, PaoloB said:

some web links are suggesting that Sony 1-533-282-21 is a 2A/72V, the unit is reading a “50” on the small case, suggesting - maybe - 5A

Yes, this P/N is a 2A fuse. Rated 2A, while the "50" stands for the 5A fusing current. See the extract from the datasheet:

With that, you can just buy any microfuse that is rated similarly, and has the same form factor (i.e., 3.2×2.5mm footprint).

 

EDIT: be careful when soldering the new fuse. You need to use an old style solder (before RoHS) with lower melting point (around somewhere 220...240 °C), and do not heat the fuse for more than a few seconds, keeping a short break (say a minute) between soldering the two contacts.

[PaoloB]

Just swapped the fuse with a good one taken from a donor board (damaged unit). Must say I missed the caveat about the solder temperature and used 260 deg C. Luckily, it seems as though I did not damage the fuse, so the unit is alive again. As for the power brick, I will in any case replace the capacitor with a new one: I’m sure the old one is OK (can’t measure it, though), but you never know.

I attach a picture of the fuse for future reference.

Thanks again for your support, I’m really grateful I could learn something new.

Paolo

[PaoloB]

Hi All, 
Update on the power brick. Today I replaced the big capacitor (in case, be careful, always discharge it before touching its pins) with a “new, bigger, better” one (of course: same capacitance).
No surprise, though. Output voltage is still around 18 V with 220 V nominal input (in fact, the original capacitor looks just fine, no bulging, no leaking whatsoever).
MZ-1 units work.
However, what indeed puzzles me is that under load the output voltage drops just slightly, down to some 16 V. Way much above the indicated, and - I’d assume - expected 10.5 V, plus minus.
If plugged into a 120 V outlet, you get in between 8 and 9 volts. Sufficient to power up the minidisc unit, but not to operate it (e.g. eject would not work).
So, it’s not even a “universal” power brick of some kind just differently labeled depending on the plug and final market of destination. Would be interesting to know the actual range of voltages the unit can handle...