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How many here use a Straight Razor to shave

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I did just this morning , to see if I could without taking my face completely off ( Probably not a bad idea ) :o

But , You know what , I think I did pretty good , only one small cut , but A really good shave , and not much razor burn either , really surprised at how well a Straight Razor can do the job if you take your time . Plus the trimming of the sideburns Look WAY cleaner , sharp crisp lines .

Sony MZ-R50 -----> Nice clean lines . Great Sound ..........

Straight Razor , Nice Clean lines ........ Great Shave ,................ Com'n I dare ya !!!

Edo Period Straight Razor , I picked up at the Boroichi Flea Market

Edited by Guitarfxr
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... really surprised at how well a Straight Razor can do the job if you take your time .

Much like recording real-time with the precision cut and chemistry of MD/Hi-MD media and laser in conjunction with the briskness of that always-changing magnetic head!

The closest I've come to doing this has been using those old Gillette blades (flat, sharp on both sides) and all-metal razor, handed down to me. It's a different experience, I'll say that much... there is a higher risk of cuts but not much riskier. It seems to get smoother and closer, too. Just slices through lots of hair far quicker than multiple-blade razors, however has a harder time getting under the nose, etc... just based on its design"

http://www.countryjoescollectiblestuff.com...uper-speed.html

BTW, the design is quite ingenious... and obviously built to last the ages. You rotate the thingy on the bottom and the top flaps open up to replace the blades (much like opening a MD/Hi-MD unit and replacing the media and/or battery for a quick swap!) =)

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Much like recording real-time with the precision cut and chemistry of MD/Hi-MD media and laser in conjunction with the briskness of that always-changing magnetic head!

The closest I've come to doing this has been using those old Gillette blades (flat, sharp on both sides) and all-metal razor, handed down to me. It's a different experience, I'll say that much... there is a higher risk of cuts but not much riskier. It seems to get smoother and closer, too. Just slices through lots of hair far quicker than multiple-blade razors, however has a harder time getting under the nose, etc... just based on its design"

http://www.countryjoescollectiblestuff.com...uper-speed.html

BTW, the design is quite ingenious... and obviously built to last the ages. You rotate the thingy on the bottom and the top flaps open up to replace the blades (much like opening a MD/Hi-MD unit and replacing the media and/or battery for a quick swap!) =)

Yep I had several of those

Industrial strength cutting......... :D

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I just use 'safety' razors, and even then manage to get numerous cuts and nicks when not careful. ie. in a hurry, which is usually the case. I can't imagine what damage one of those straight razors would do... :unsure:

My Edo Period razor is made from Katana Steel , the real stuff .....

You get an edge on this thing very slowly , working it up with VERY LITTLE pressure other wise you damage the edge , and somwhere around 10,000 grit , you can start the Honing process , ( Up to 10,000 is just the sharpening) from there , getting the burr down , and the true edge to come out . Then you can shave a Cats butt without him even knowing your doing it . :dirol:

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I really wanted to get into this. I like the shave I get from my cartridge shaver, but I hate the environmental impact. I have recycled them before by disassembling them, but this is rather a hassle and I'm not even sure the recycler does anything with them.

A few months ago I purchased a kit with a new straight razor, a strop, brush, and introductory video. The problem is the kits claim to be "presharpened" and this is simply not the case. Also, I'm terrible with the strop. So, the first time I actually tried using it the blade simply wasn't sharp enough and I nicked myself in quite a few places as a result (yes--contrary to what you may believe, sharper is safer, if you're going to do this at all.) What I'll need to do to get going again is to send my blade off to one of the pros on the forum I joined back then--for about 20-25$ including shipping they'll put a nice edge on it. After that, if I get better with the strop I can keep it sharp for a long time and perhaps by then learn how to properly sharpen it myself--or just send it off again.

In any case, here is a link to the forum I joined and did a lot of reading on when I was attempting this:

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/

It's rather a time investment, but apparently worth the trouble for some people. It remains to be seen if I'll be drawn back into it.

Edited by narp
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I really wanted to get into this. I like the shave I get from my cartridge shaver, but I hate the environmental impact. I have recycled them before by disassembling them, but this is rather a hassle and I'm not even sure the recycler does anything with them.

A few months ago I purchased a kit with a new straight razor, a strop, brush, and introductory video. The problem is the kits claim to be "presharpened" and this is simply not the case. Also, I'm terrible with the strop. So, the first time I actually tried using it the blade simply wasn't sharp enough and I nicked myself in quite a few places as a result (yes--contrary to what you may believe, sharper is safer, if you're going to do this at all.) What I'll need to do to get going again is to send my blade off to one of the pros on the forum I joined back then--for about 20-25$ including shipping they'll put a nice edge on it. After that, if I get better with the strop I can keep it sharp for a long time and perhaps by then learn how to properly sharpen it myself--or just send it off again.

In any case, here is a link to the forum I joined and did a lot of reading on when I was attempting this:

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/

It's rather a time investment, but apparently worth the trouble for some people. It remains to be seen if I'll be drawn back into it.

Awww com'n Narp dude ......If ya got the skills for hacking RH1 , your hands should be steady enough , No ???

Maybe I can trade ya somethin' for the Set you have if not !!!

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Aw shucks. It isn't my unsteady hands--it's just that I don't have the uber edge making skills nor the time to acquire them. Procrastination is what's been keeping me from sending the blade off to the pro edge creators. I also need a new, better strop. I kinda hacked up the first one practicing.

The kit was almost twice what I paid for my RH1, btw :).

Edited by narp
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Aw shucks. It isn't my unsteady hands--it's just that I don't have the uber edge making skills nor the time to acquire them. Procrastination is what's been keeping me from sending the blade off to the pro edge creators. I also need a new, better strop. I kinda hacked up the first one practicing.

The kit was almost twice what I paid for my RH1, btw :).

Ahhhh The Edge ( Great Guitarist by the way, oh we are talking about steel ! )

Here is the Hint you need ......... There is a fair amount of odd Hardware and Woodworker supply stores around .

So here is what you need , a 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick plate of glass ( that will be a trues flat surface ) then Wet /Dry sandpaper starting at 6000 grit

then work up in this order 6000 --> 8000 ---> 10000 ---> 15,0000 if you can find it . once you get to 10000 use VERY LITTLE pressure just motion , lots of it .

If you can find 15,000 then Stropping wont be as much of an issue . but a Wood block with a few layers of leather top with a smooth layer

or a Cloth buffer wheel with compound and your done .

As a Guitar Repair guy , I have to keep my tools really sharp or I stand the chance of messing up a customers ax , Not Good .

Woodcraft Supply should be in your area

http://www.woodcraft.com/

use their store locator ,........ I love woodcraft , these guys are cool.

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Oh those sound like very effective methods to get a sharp edge; however, I think some of the heads over at srp forum would cring a bit. While I'm sure noone would argue that there is a single "good" technique, the object (and I'm no expert, mind you) is not just make a sharp edge, but create good stable lasting edge that may be maintained with minimal effort, and introduces the least amount of wear necessary on the blade. Probably the best place to read up to understand what I'm squawking about is here:

http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/inde...Category:Honing

There's a huge 90 mile long yard sale coming up in my area. Hopefully I'll run across a good deal on a used blade that I can use to learn proper honing.

Edited by narp
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http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/inde...Category:Honing

There's a huge 90 mile long yard sale coming up in my area. Hopefully I'll run across a good deal on a used blade that I can use to learn proper honing.

that is a Great idea , a lot less to lose , investment wise , And Practice never hurt anybody , bad technique does . Learning to do something like sharpening a blade is a personal issue , when you have a lot of experience USING blades , then you get a feel for how YOU want the blade to perform and for what purpose , but when YOU have to conform to the blades design in an unfamiliar way . that can be a tough adjustment as that we are talking about a Microscopic area of adjustment and feel .

When the edge works in a way that FEELS GOOd to YOU .... then the process is much more natural , and less intimidating .

The Facial hair is tougher than the arm , but the arm is a good place to test . When hair comes of WITHOUT ANY Skin pull ( which even a sharp edge on a chisel will do) Nut cutting the skin but there is a very subtle pull that happens ( some skin might flake just a little , white areas , are a sure sign ) but when hair on the arm comes off and you cant really feel the blade ,it is just like it slid off ,....then your close to face quality , a little strop action and bingo , your ready to go .

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