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  1. Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano
    2 points
  2. I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.
    2 points
  3. Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage->
    2 points
  4. Here is the thing then: the 640 does work now with PC-Link and M-Crew. (See my uncut, lame video at the end - "Welcome to Paradise" :-) .) Yes, it is done, and I feel this is a breakthrough, after all those unsuccessful tries in the past, including my previous attempts back in 2017 or so. The icing on the cake is the 640 has kept all its keyboard functionalities too ! I guess what you are mostly interested in is how this was made possible, and what's needed to replicate it on your machines - the shiny, polished, step-by-step guide and documentation I originally wanted to post here can w
    1 point
  5. Hi Christopher. I think I've worked out the issue with me being able to reply to threads. It's just threads in the Announcements and News sub-forums I cannot reply to and I suspect that might be by design rather than any sort of fault. I seem to have lost the ability to "like" any posts made by moderators/administrators but the option is still there for posts by normal members. Like the new look and many thanks for keeping this place running!
    1 point
  6. I was fortunate enough to spot a BCA-MZNH1 stand when it appeared on eBay at the weekend and snapped it up - I have uploaded a photo that confirms that the NH1 definitely requires 6V. I also tested my power supply with a multi-meter and it is delivering 6.15V but not sure what current is being delivered as the multi-voltage adapter delivers 3-12V max 1.2A. The end result is the same though, the charge light comes on for almost 20 seconds and then goes off (as does the display on the NH1) - I left it on the stand overnight with power connected but still no life from the battery so Jimma's
    1 point
  7. I have tested your new version and it works very well, the only field I now have to type myself, after the import of the CD, is Year Released. Your program is especially useful when importing a CD and want the result files coded as Atrac Advanced Lossless, for other lossless (or lossy) codecs there are several (free) rip programs with direct connection to Discogs or MusicBrainz etc.. For example you can rip to WMA lossless and import the files in SonicStage while keeping the tags. Your instructions how to use the program are very good also.
    1 point
  8. I just wanted to update this forum on my solution so maybe it MIGHT help someone else in a similar situation. I went ahead and carefully took apart the unit. I was able to release the front display ribbon connector cable from the main circuit board and very gently clean the contacts with some 99% isopropyl alcohol. This is kind of dangerous as apparently (I learned about this later), that the contacts are leaded. If you clean them too much, you might simply "wipe" the contacts away and ruin the connector. Well, I did use a light touch and when I put it all back together, my LCD wa
    1 point
  9. Here you can download the SM of the MZ-R909.
    1 point
  10. I saw the same case once, although it was an MXD-D3 combo deck, not a portable. The solution was cleaning the two sensor microswitches (i.e., the prerecorded media detector and the writeable media read-only tab detector switches) with some contact cleaning/lubricating spray, then the problem disappeared.
    1 point
  11. You EE-types are paying good attention to every detail! I have a mundane observation to contribute. My Sony MDS-JA22ES was a Japan domestic model, 100v. My being in the US, to be safe I used a stepdown to get to 100. There were some well-documented (here) issues with the unit, but power wasn't one of them. But the display, while good, was on the dimmer side, especially when compared to other MD decks near it. So I gave it a try minus the voltage converter. The display brightened up considerably. However, the majority of opinions that I sought advised that long-term, probably not the best thin
    1 point
  12. I like your approach, Kevin, and yes, on the low voltage DC side the regulator circuits should be OK with even a 15...20% higher input voltage. However, the main risk here is at the transformer side. Not sure about Sony, but in the commercial goods world it is common to squeeze out the most possible performance using the least possible material. When it comes to an AC power transformer, we speak about a lot of iron and copper to be saved. Then, when you consider how a transformer works, a 10...20% increase in the AC voltage can result a much higher increase in the energy "pumped" int
    1 point
  13. Hi Stan, welcome to the forums. These are all good signs of the device not yet being fully dead. That the power button works shows your MCU is alive - it is sensing some of the buttons and can control the standby/power on led, therefore, it seems it is not blocked by a fault somewhere, that would cause the MCU forcing the device stay in Standby. That the disc load/eject works shows that your BD board is alive (might have some faults though - to be figured out later on). Let's begin with the trivial stuff: - I would first check the two ribbons that connect the drive to
    1 point
  14. OK so I made two ;-) Was pretty straightforward from the instructions given on the original site. It's a very well-designed shell for the parts, and my earlier doubts about the battery being loose in the frame were unfounded as I didn't read properly: it is held in place with glue between its 'wings' and the frame. A few minor comments: The areas on a new print that catch inside the MZ-NH1 casing are the '+' and '-' characters, which were printed raised a bit too high. Easily reduced with careful sandpapering. The new LiPo battery's original orange sellotape, that cover
    1 point
  15. OK, thanks. That clarifies. I give up then for now - maybe new facts come after the remaining tests.
    1 point
  16. Again, this must be related to the source device and/or the cabling. TOSLINK receivers on both decks going south the same way and the same time is not really probable. And I keep my theory of the faulty source selector switch. No, it is not correct. A broken RCA cable can show such a symptom. When either the middle wire or the shield is broken only, and only partially, say it still conducts electrically but the impedance is too high for the decks audio input circuits. Under a certain voltage treshold the signal will be considered as silence. Indeed, it should not. N
    1 point
  17. Tesa cloth tape (fabric tape), Tesa 51026 for example. Or any similar, from other brands.
    1 point
  18. Before I get into the main purpose of the topic, here's some preamble, because I know people find it interesting to hear about each other's experiences. I've gotten back into recording Minidiscs again after a very long time and wanted to document the process of making it less of a pain in the ass. With that out of the way, let's talk about the MDS-B5 and why I'm so happy to record on it despite it not having the new Type R DSP that my MZ-N707 has (it does have dual ATRAC chips though - does anyone know if the MDS-B5 actually uses those in tandem to improve encoding quality or if it
    1 point
  19. :-) That's a brand new machine then. I remember when I bought my badly wanted JA20ES and checked its odometers when arrived (something like p=180h and r=35h) I was soooo happy!
    1 point
  20. As for fine setting the laser: before anything, I must ephasize two things. First: changing any settings in SM without the necessary test gear (and background knowledge) is risky. I can give you some "educated guesses", but a proper work is to be done with the appropriate tools (LPM, DMM, test jigs, oscilloscope, test discs). Second: calibrating the laser is a complex procedure, sometimes requires multiple takes on adjustments that also depend on or influence each other. A simplified overview of the laser settings: - power = laser emissions, for reading and recording. - travers
    1 point
  21. After not using my MDS-JE780 for awhile, I left an MD in the player and forgot to take it out. It wouldn’t eject and freaked out. This thread helped a lot. Thank you posting this. I started looking for the belt on the internet and seeing what else can work and measuring the diameter. Then I started looking at these Rainbow Looms that you can make those bracelets out of that my daughter has. They’re a bit smaller but I figured I’d try it out. I worked it through the pulleys and it worked! After going through several MDs it’s been playing fine and ejecting with no issues. Here is a pict
    1 point
  22. NGY, beat me to it !!
    1 point
  23. The 320 is not an MDLP model. What you experience is normal for the SP-only decks. The first Sony full size MDLP decks were the x40 family (440/640/940), from 2000 or so. The 320 is from 1998, way before the MDLP hit the market.
    1 point
  24. You wrote BIOS recognised the HDD. This gives two pieces of information: 1) you attempted to use this machine in BIOS mode. Question: is it possible to change it to UEFI mode? Question 2: If it is, after changing to UEFI, will it detect the HDD just as well (some hints here)? 2) your hdd is alive (most probably). Question: how was it originally partitioned, MBR or GPT? Question 2: Do you have a capable partition utility, that can give a reliable information about your hdd (like BootIT NG, BootICE, or similar)? For ms windows environments the hdd must have a partitioning scheme t
    1 point
  25. So I took the time to figure out the Kana Unicode values so I can have my funny japanese letters on my Mindisc player, may also be useful for CD walkmans of the era, like a D-NE1. Anyways, I have made a google doc chart with the unicodes if you know how to make some sort of easy conversion program, but I'm dumb and don't know how to make such a tool. So, let me explain the process I currently am going through to get Kana displayed on my MZ-N707, I look up the katakanized name of a song. For example, 約束 by Roselia. That song has a kanji title, so I will turn it into ヤクソク (yakusoku) if I
    1 point
  26. There is a few things we should distinguish here: 1./ The sound quality output from the D/A converter of an MD device vs. the sound quality of the same audio material recorded via ATRAC, on the same device ATRAC is a lossy audio format by design, and even being technically superior to other lossy formats, still there can be audible differences to the original audio, plus there is a significant "subjectiveness" factor. 2./ Tidal offers different audio quality options Only the highest one ("Master") has better than CD quality. Recording to MD from such 24 bit master f
    1 point
  27. You can also find the same part on other machines from the period, such as the SCD-XB940 Super Audio CD player, should you want to extend your search.
    1 point
  28. Sorry, should have mentioned that the Service Manual states that the Rec Level knob and the AMS knob are the same part.
    1 point
  29. Not sure if it might help you locate one but, according to the Service Manual, the part numbers are: 4-227-834-01 KNOB (AMS) (BLACK)...(BLACK) 4-227-834-11 KNOB (AMS) (SILVER)...(SILVER)
    1 point
  30. I thought others might find this little hint useful too. There is a nice feature of this forum engine: after you attached a picture and inserted into the text, double-click into the photo (the inserted "copy" of it), that brings up a configuration window. There you can set the size of the thumbnail, how the picture will appear in the post. Say 120...200 pixels wide (heigth follows it proportionally), and it still gives an idea of what the photo is about, yet the post remains compact, easier to view, scroll, etc.. Then readers just click on the thumbnail, and can see the picture in its ori
    1 point
  31. I guess this is the same one that is also on Elektrotanya. Sadly it does not have any circuit diagrams, only (rather poor quality) PCB layouts. Probably -30V. But the VFD should work with -17V as well, only somewhat dimmer. I am not sure that this SM is 100% consistent, because parts numbering seems different on the PCB layouts and in the parts list. Nevertheless, if the VFD driver IC is what we see in the SM, then its datasheet talks about -35V (actually anything down to -40V).
    1 point
  32. Sounds like the sled cannot find the right positon for reading the TOC. Might be a dental problem :-) . (direct link) (another one here)
    1 point
  33. Ha-ha, lot of questions :-) ! I try my best answering them, but again, I might be subjective (and wrong too) here and there, so I expect others to share their view. - "Is the KMS-260E a later model, and thus probably superior to KMS-260A?" - This I really cannot answer properly. I guess a Sony engineer would know the "secret". They did the upgrades for a reason, that is sure, but the reason can be just as simple as a new spec diode, for example. My statistical base is small, I can speak about only 100-120 decks I had my hands on for repair. This is certainly not representative, but
    1 point
  34. Hi John. You can download the "ultimate edition" of SonicStage 4.3 from this site:
    1 point
  35. Hi Stefano, Your work is really admired. and I am not professional in these software but the user who is enjoying your talent works. this is an idea came up after I successfully tried the NetMD. These sony old network walkman is actually very similar to MD players, use Atrac format. anyway, if you get time and interests, maybe can check, I have to say, these very legacy network walkman are quite good-from design perspective, such as NW-MS90D, piece of art. Yours Henry
    1 point
  36. I've encountered this. Sorry for the bump thread, mods, I'm not sure if it's a forum faux pas, as I've not posted for well over a decade. The MZ-N10 I bought new (about 2002 maybe), had this problem a few months after purchase. I sent it back under warranty to have it fixed, it came back, then after over a year of use the same thing happened, this time out of warranty. If I remember correctly MD recorder was sent back with the repair notes which stated the mainboard had been changed. A few months ago I decided to dig out my MD recorders after frequenting r/minidisc o
    1 point
  37. Hi Stefano. you discovered and released the Holy Grail. Thank you! Works perfectly with my mz-n910. I haven’t tried my other recorders yet but I’m pretty sure all the Sony and Aiwa will work fine one question though: your app runs via Chrome, could it stop working because of a chrome update? I’m saying that because it’s so great I don’t want to lose it!!! Grazie!
    1 point
  38. According to the Service Manual that error means: Error - F15 Symptom - Interval till MD starts playing is too long Possible cause - Pickup home position sense switch (S8) is defective; check and replace if necessary The part number is apparently RSP1A023-A No idea if this is of any help?
    1 point
  39. Great news! Really glad you got it working again :-)
    1 point
  40. The OWH needs to be UNDER the metal plate. See pictures of the post : Metal slats needs to be straightened. Do the "virtual MD" trick (no MD inside) Put the OPU/OWH to the center (>> button) Unscrew a little (1 or 2mm) to release the OWH (red) Pass gently the OWH under the metal plate Re-screw the OWH on OPU Use scalpel (or fine tool) to twist big metal slats (yellow) to re-adjust the OWH height Use scalpel to twist the little metal slats to make the head flat against to the disc (orange). HINT : Put a minidisc and make STOP-RE
    1 point
  41. If you don't want to disassemble more, the only solution is to try unlocking it or cleaning it (with contact spray) by top like I explain here : https://video.latavernedejohnjohn.fr/videos/watch/44346503-e4e8-427e-bece-0b6750bf7336 But with the risk to ruin the OPU which do not like liquids inside obviously if you don't protect it and do a bad job.
    1 point
  42. I corrected my word "leveller" -> Lever (as Sony spells it in SM). Yeah I think his OHW will die soon if he continues. :-) It's a miracle it still alive. I persist, the problem for me not is loading or up/down gears but the OPU is not fully pushed to the left before ejecting -> sled problem. That's why I put colors to better understand : BAD : GOOD :
    1 point
  43. Put this OWH in the right way first. Poor recording head.
    1 point
  44. Techmoan's just uploaded a new MiniDisc video, this time about an MZ-E620 he picked up for £10. Great tip about the Brasso...
    1 point
  45. At least D[n]A gave us a quite complete description of of what he have done... wrong. As said bluecrab there is an error with the connections : To be connected with a PC witch has an internal or an external soundcard with an OPTICAL OUT (S/PDIF toslink) you need to connect it with the OPTICAL IN (S/PDIF toslink) of your deck. This is for a ditigal real time recording (also to make work your deck as a DAC). What you absolutely need to be sure, is that the signal use at the maximum the 48kHz frequency. That is the case for all the music if not a "Hi-Res" quality (Hi-Res mean Hi-Reso
    1 point
  46. You're trying to record an MD? Then the cable needs to go into Opt. In. of the deck.
    1 point
  47. Hi, Here's a new netmd760.cat file. Just replace the existing file with this one. This fixes the hash mismatch errors... netmd760.cat
    1 point
  48. MDS-JE520 Yesterday night I played with a faulty deck, and here is what I found. I bought this MDS-JE520 on ebay for parts originally, it was fairly cheap, so I did not mind stripping it down. But as usual, first I wanted to understand, what is the cause for the fault. The deck would not accept any discs, after loading one, it would try to read it, but then it would eject with C13. I had already some idea, that there can be multiple reasons for a deck rejecting a disc, however, here came another one I would have never thought of. Before jumping on it, here is a little puzzle: ca
    1 point
  49. Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nomina
    1 point
  50. Is there a reason you are transfering tracks in SP mode? You are aware that SP mode when transfering over Netmd is actually 'fake' sp, in that it is the EXACT same bitrate as LP2, just wrapped with some coding that makes the files playable on a minidisc player/recorder without LP2/LP4 playback capability>?
    1 point
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