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Showing most liked content since 11/19/2016 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi, I'm new in the Minidisc world as i bought my first ever unit 2 days ago from the internet. The problem I have is that I cannot charge the flat battery(NH-10WN) of the MD. The adaptor is correct connected, and the battery is inserted correctly. I connect the adaptor to the plug of the MD and press the STOP/CANCEL/CRG button once and I get the display "Charging". After 2.5 hours I tried to play a disc but I was getting low battery, so I charged it for another 2.5 hours. That happened 4-5 times. The unit itself works ok when it"s connected to the adaptor. Am i doing something wrong or should i send the MD back to the place I bought it?
  2. 1 point
    For those who can understand french or just can translate french text, jonathanpotato has repaired and comment a lot of portable and deck units, even made a repair guide : Articles / Accès par thèmes / Minidisc, http://www.jonathandupre.fr/ . Note that there are dozens of comments even hundreds for some of them on each unit on Sony Insider. Non Sony units like Sharp's however are not that much analysed and commented so that could be a welcome add. I don't know if your topic will have a good success and I just cross my fingers for you. Perhaps I will had my own comments when I will have more time.
  3. 1 point
    i much prefer the character of the 2nd device. the bass is better defined and the sound feels more vast. i think its clearer too.
  4. 1 point
    That's great news Kris - a fine achievement - time now to relax and enjoy!
  5. 1 point
    Good news. It works, it does!!!. It wouldn't be possible without your help. Thank you very much!!!.
  6. 1 point
    Kris - If the one you ordered does not fit - then message me - I have spare units that I can strip for one - you are welcome to it if I can help.
  7. 1 point
    Sounds a bit long. It is not a problem from resistance point of view, however, long cables can pick up electromagnetic noise, like an aerial. What you can do though is to fold the cable in Z or Omega shape, making sure the folded parts cover each other precisely - in other words, wires won't get over a neighbouring one, to avoid interference. And no need for very sharp edges, to avoid cracks. In your case keeping the 125 mm distance beetween the two ends you first make a fold at ~100mm, then at ~75mm from the first one, making the Z. In the middle you will have triple layers, consuming about 225mm of the length, plus ~25-25mm-s at the ends Once this is done, you may want to tie it together with a piece of adhesive tape.
  8. 1 point
    Yes, 0.5mm pitch 50 pin can make it in a 1mm pitch 25 pin socket. I found this, but looks tooo long: here. But that guy has other width/length, may be worth asking. What is the length of your cable, Chris? I can also check my spares box. And whether or not is it an inverted cable (contacts on one end are on the back side of the ribbon).
  9. 1 point
    What exactly is the problem with the display? Is it completely dark? Several things can happen. The quickest checks, that don't need much testing gear: - check if all those flat cables are seated properly - check for any electronic components that look burnt , also, for dark brown or black spots/stains on the PCBs - check if those tiny cathode filaments inside the VFD are not broken. Two photos below are from different models, but give you the idea The left one shows intact filaments, the one on the right shows the topmost filament broken: .
  10. 1 point
    Post edited. No longer relevant.
  11. 1 point
    Just try... You will be able to sell back it if it do not fitted.
  12. 1 point
    Hi all, Just to add to the list - I've now got my CMT-M333NT accessible through this version of SonicStage using: Win 10 the original Sony USB cable Net MD 64bit drivers found in the Downloads section As I hadn't read things through thoroughly first, I installed SonicStage first with no luck. I had to follow the steps spelled out in the other post (restarting with the ability to load Unsigned Drivers) to load the Drivers afterwards, but it all worked perfectly. Now I just need to find someone with a MZ-RH1 so that I can Sync my old SP MD's back to PC so they're not lost! Shame there's no Audio Out (other than using the headphone jack) on the CMT-M333NT (& such unusual speaker connections) - otherwise I could hook it into my Sonos Connect and blast old MD's through all the house. Thanks to everyone involved in keeping this thread and the various pieces of software running!
  13. 1 point
    I haven't been active here in awhile but there are still 4 or 5 threads in the Feedback forum attesting to my good character. I have this Sony branded carry case for sale. I bought it new and it rarely left the house. $15 shipped.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    maybe a worn out or defect fuse on the PSU ? Do you hear a clicking relais when you try to power on ?
  16. 1 point
    have you looked at the manual troubler shooter? while waiting for some one to reply? or even contact sony? http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4233759133.pdf I see there is a reset command on page 50 cant post it here as goes all messy
  17. 1 point
    The 333ES is so good, that its LP2 sounds good even without Type S. I got one when they were more reasonably priced, but it's now deceased and departed. The JE780 is well-spoken-of and while not exactly common, does turn up here and there for much less than the 333ES. I'm not sure the S500 was ever common, even in Japan. Don't know where you're looking, but besides eBay, you can always check out Buyee (http://buyee.jp/?lang=en). Lots of folks record optically from their PCs! (I sometimes do so from an iMac...my PC has coax out...that works, too.) I have a JA22ES, which seems to have a GUI that enables one to do titling and such from a PC, although I do not use that functionality. Anyway, good luck, be nice to know what you wind up with.
  18. 1 point
    Well if I wanted average quality I could just stick wtih the old player. The Sony deck sounds amazing, even compared to a similarly spec'd and priced Pioneer from the same era. And I've got some good speakers, and despite my old age I can still hear and appreciate the high end. I'm really very aware of quantization in the high end, which is why I'm using MDs instead of, say, 320kbps MP3s. The difference between LP2 and SP might not be noticeable, but the difference between music recorded via optical input and music encoded by SonicStage and transferred over is -massive-. Whatever SS is doing doesn't work nearly as well as the NH900. Now whether that's because of the DSP, or flaws in my testing (which was done a while ago and I may have done something silly and forgotten) I don't know. But I find it relaxing to create a disc the old fashioned way. Creating a good playlist and recording one track at a time is a soothing thing. tl;dr - it works and I like it. =) Holy crap, you're not kidding about the JA333ES. O_o The S50 requires the weird PC-Link thing, is that a hassle compared to the relatively easy NetMD with Sonic Stage?
  19. 1 point
    I was wondering if there are regulars here? I bought my first MD when they first came out. I had about 15 pre-recorded discs, and my ex-wife threw them away because She was jealous of them. She said that with the small player she thought I was trying to block her out without her knowing. I guess she was right. I actually took the garbage bag to the dump without knowing that my beloved discs were in there. At hey we're absolutely pristine, as I a) really believed that they would be rare someday, and I always talked immaculate care of my CD's. Every time that I buy a CD, if there's a "hype" sticker on the plastic wrap, I try to carefully peel them off and stick them inside the jewel case under the CD. I probably have 700+ CD's, and they're all perfect. As soon as I brought them home, I would handle the sticker part, and burn it to mini disc immediately. I only, have about 30 Mini disc blanks, and about half of them are recorded CD's. They were all recorded, but recently I was listening to them, and somehow they just erased due to my hitting a wrong button. I don't know how. Just today I bought a D to A convertor, a new 1/8 into red and white RCA connector line, and a Toslink digital cable with mini plug converters, so I'm all set to record my favorite CD's right from my brand new Panasonic SL-SW415 CD player that my wife bought me for my 59th birthday this Thursday. I am thrilled to get my old SHOCKWAVE back. The last one that Ibought was a '95 SL-SW405, and it lasted over 20 years without so much as a hiccup until my wife's cat knocked the basket that it was in off of the top of the refrigerator. My new one is all set for a fun day of recording tomorrow, I can't wait to see if they sound any better when burned through Optical cable one to one with my CD player. I previously did all of my MD burning using NetMD software, so until I figure out the new hardware, I'll be burning them from CD. It will take more time, but hopefully the sonic difference will be worth it. So, is there anybody out there? Wally
  20. 1 point
    some kind of hi resitance you are over comming? maybe the coating on the battery to stop corrosion>
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    [edit] Forget it. It seems to work now - apparently it´s because some of the tracks were recorded using a different recorder. Those I recorded, I apparently can delete. I leave the post as is, but disregard it. [/edit] (Sorry if this is the wrong forum, but the thread seems to fit) I´ve got a problem with my MZ-R900 - whenever I try to erase a track, I get TR PROTECT - even though the track was recorded a minute ago, using the optical cable and the optical output of my DVD-Player, playing a (original) CD. I have yet to read the manual entirely, but searches through it, or the web, didn´t find anything useful. Even here I didn´t find much I could use. These tracks obviously are protected - but why? And how can I erase them? Is it possible that it´s merely a disc-failure? I´ve checked the write-protect tab, but it´s fine - I could record as long as there was empty space. Should I discard the disc as write-only, or is there a simple solution(i.e. not buying additional hardware)? BTW, the disc wasn´t new or empty - some tracks have been written on it, by using a non-portable(bookshelf?) unit. Can this be the reason?
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