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Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip

Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano

As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.

Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();

Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.

I received a similar, albeit slightly smaller, mix of boxed and unboxed discs today too 🙂

Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:

Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆

Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!

Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.

I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief homage to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but unfortunately, six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on from MD to MP3 players, but just recently I've been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.

Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.

Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!

It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.

Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed

I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.

In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html

I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)

Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.

I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs

MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.

I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too

Yeah, I really don't fancy my chances of getting it back together again if I tried to dissemble it. Everything's so tiny compared to working on a deck. I got a bit annoyed with it yesterday 🤦‍♂️ and gave the jog dial a pretty vigorous work out and it seems to have improved a fair bit 🤣 I think I'll just keep playing with it for a while longer and see how things pan out.

No, you aren't missing anything obvious. NetMD doesn't support putting raw ATRAC1 back on the discs. However, if you would like to test it, here's the unreleased version of WMD, which does support that on some devices: https://testing.minidisc.wiki/b0824780-3c0c-11ed-b994-2c56dc399093/ That is a bug I am aware of, I'll fix it as soon as possible. It's still not fixed in the testing version I linked above.

We’re a terrible influence on each other 🤣

Hi! Thanks for the kind words, if you have any suggestions or bugs to report, please let me know :). I got into MD for the first time in 2016 thanks to the first Techmoan MD video ("Minidisc: An appreciation" I think it was called), when I got myself an MZ-R3, that died a few years later with error 40. Now I own 5 MZ-R3s - 1 working and 4 dead. If you know any fixes for that dreaded error 40, please let me know - I'd love to fix it one day.

Great that you've got your machine working again, @multiwirth 🙂 Gerry also sells stuff like this via the r/minidisc Reddit under the name gerry88inHongKong (in case anyone's interested but doesn't use Facebook):

I like your approach, Kevin, and yes, on the low voltage DC side the regulator circuits should be OK with even a 15...20% higher input voltage. However, the main risk here is at the transformer side. Not sure about Sony, but in the commercial goods world it is common to squeeze out the most possible performance using the least possible material. When it comes to an AC power transformer, we speak about a lot of iron and copper to be saved. Then, when you consider how a transformer works, a 10...20% increase in the AC voltage can result a much higher increase in the energy "pumped" into the transformer, and that "extra" converts to different kind of losses (iron core loss, copper wire loss, etc.), and ultimately, heat. Normally, such a transformer is designed to work near the limit of possible magnetic saturation of the core, to keep the size (= cost of the material) small. If you go over this limit, that's when problems happen. Same for the copper windings: the diameter of the wire is designed to bear the maximum current that particular device is expected to draw. But if you increase the voltage, with the same copper resistance, the current will increase, so will the heat generated inside the copper. On top of all, this is a non-linear function :-( . I.e., 10% more current (or voltage) means 20+ % more energy, and 20% more current means 40+ % more energy. We did not speak about electric and magnetic (also, audible) noises of an over-saturated transformer, or voltage swings on the AC net, that can take the input AC voltage way higher, than the nominal value. Example: it is not uncommon on the 230V grids, that the voltage occassionally goes up to 238...242V. I believe it is similar on the 100/110/120V grids too. Imagine, if a device meant to be used on a 100V line gets a - say - 125...126V AC input voltage on a 120V net.

I guess this is the same one that is also on Elektrotanya. Sadly it does not have any circuit diagrams, only (rather poor quality) PCB layouts. Probably -30V. But the VFD should work with -17V as well, only somewhat dimmer. I am not sure that this SM is 100% consistent, because parts numbering seems different on the PCB layouts and in the parts list. Nevertheless, if the VFD driver IC is what we see in the SM, then its datasheet talks about -35V (actually anything down to -40V).

Ha-ha, lot of questions :-) ! I try my best answering them, but again, I might be subjective (and wrong too) here and there, so I expect others to share their view. - "Is the KMS-260E a later model, and thus probably superior to KMS-260A?" - This I really cannot answer properly. I guess a Sony engineer would know the "secret". They did the upgrades for a reason, that is sure, but the reason can be just as simple as a new spec diode, for example. My statistical base is small, I can speak about only 100-120 decks I had my hands on for repair. This is certainly not representative, but I could not find any evidences for one type of laser being better than the others. To me, they are all good, and proper settings are the most important. - "I found these inexpensive lasers" - this was not a question, one note here though: it may worth to double check with the seller, what they actually sell. Most Chinese sellers use the same photos from their wholesalers (or taken from their fellow sellers), as well as titles/descriptions. Most cases they just list all suffixes like compatible versions, but only sell one and only one type. As I saw, most of them sell 260E lasers (funny enough, sometimes pulled from non-Sony devices, as their photo shows), few of them sell 260B (for almost twice as much), and I have not recently seen any 260A versions (not if I wanted one). - "should I take it to a tech to make sure the laser is properly calibrated?" - It does not hurt to perform a "sanity check" on the laser status. I'd expect though the tech knowing that they do, and having all the necessary test gear. - "Do they [the lasers] drift over time?" - Heat can cause some drifting in actual laser power vs. given settings. But this is different from the changes that occur as the laser ages. Over time, the power of the emitted laser beam decerases, this is normal. Checking it regularly - depends on the use. If you record live performances, that are one-time kind, you may want to (as well as to use at least one mirror device recording for back up). If you do your CD or vinyl complations, your deck "will tell", when to replace its laser, and the most you can lose is the very last recording (that you can redo hopefully). - "What causes the MD disc to not run true?" - Many things, actually. Just to name a few: manufacturing error, disc dropped to the floor, disc left on a hot place for long (car dash, top of the amp), etc. And you bet: it is rare, but drive mechanism can also be a cause - see my post here, for "fun" :-) . - " On that topic, can I lubricate the drive mechanism myself?" - Sure you can. Do it carefully, and use the proper grease, developed for these fine mechanical devices. There are several known brands and products, the most important thing is that the two main components (the oil that lubricates and the "soap" that carries the oil and keeps in place) must not be separating with time, thus the grease will not dry out and harden. Two more notes: 1) never use silicon grease in these devices, and 2) before applying the fresh grease, always clean the parts completely from any residues of the old lubricants. - "I'd read somewhere it was better for capacitors and other electronics to leave them powered on than to leave them off for extended periods" - Yes, but let me make some differentiation here. 1) Inside unused caps the chemical complex can change with time, therefore switching unused electronics on regularly might help as these caps sort of "reformatting" themselves, that can limit these irreversible chemical changes. However, leaving the electronics always on will not stop their caps from drying out (it is actually the opposite, especially, if these caps are located close to other parts, that generate heat, like a power resistor, heat sink, etc.). Electrolytic caps do dry out over time, and if left in that state with the device powered down for an extended period, caps can disintegrate (with a "puff" sometimes) when powered on again. 2) What electronics do not really like is frequent switching on and off, for the transients that may cause damage. This much is true (and I did not say one should pull the AC cord after each disc played or recorded). If you never switch off your electronic device, you may save it from these transient shocks (provided the device is plugged into at least a surge protected AC outlet, or running on an UPS). But this will not save them from ageing. Having the "Standby" function on most electronics is exactly there for this reason, it keeps only the least minimum needed circuits running, and shuts of the rest, to save power and device lifetime. - "Those photos are horrible. How on earth did it get so dirty? Was the laser or mechanics damaged from that?" - I have no idea, I was surprised too. The deck came with "usual" C13 error, and after completing a full strip-down/clean/rebuild circle it worked again flawlessly. I saw a similar one the other time, and that laser was already dying, thought that deck had already run more than 2000 hours, so that could count as well. - "I am guessing that this loading mech was built by Tascam and is not a Sony. Any suggestions on where I can find parts?" - I am sorry, not only my experience is limited, but is restricted to a few Sony decks only, so no clue here. Pfhew ... now it begins looking like I was writing a book :-) . If you reached down here with reading, you deserve a beer or your favourite drink :-) .

i much prefer the character of the 2nd device. the bass is better defined and the sound feels more vast. i think its clearer too.

Good news. It works, it does!!!. It wouldn't be possible without your help. Thank you very much!!!.

Daniyar Nurgaliev has kindly made translations of several Sony technical papers on Minidisc: Sony's original paper on ATRAC Sony's original paper on the MiniDisc System Our FAQ on Sony's Hi-MD evolution of MiniDisc

Hi, for me are just Bit Club naked, before printing of the various patterns. Zebra, fire arrows, one traffic, have the same opaque white base. In my view, to have the security you need to perform an autopsy. Open Them! :-))) Nice shot!!!! A good day to all Sergio

dump it. if it has music on it of value you could give it a very good wash and dry but that would remove the lubricant on the disc so u wouldnt be able to use it to record any more - the record head is a magnetic one that actually contacts the disc, hence the lubricant. how on earth did u let fungus grow on it?. Dont let it get near any of your other ones - have a good look at them if it has to see if they are affected.

Do you plan on using any of them for music, or just to make money? If you want to know what things are worth to sell, them sell them and find out. If you are only selling them on eBay (and not just you), good luck to you - but how about not wasting the time of forum users by posting about them here WHEN THERE IS A DEDICATED CLASSIFIEDS SECTION that you people are completely disrespecting!! With all due respect, Danny

That's great news PaulDenton!! I think the remote from many other units will likely control at least that basic functionality of the unit. Do you intend to use the RH1 on the go where you need the remote for full functionality? I am sure you'll be able to find a remote you can use. Congrats, you'll love it. That price seems very reasonable too, right around what they retailed for new.

But maybe you have a better french so send a MP to jonathanpotato here or contact him on Laserdisc Plaza : http://www.laserdiscplaza.fr/forumld/viewforum.php?f=73&sid=7366375439475170c2a3f86e4c925f2b (jonathanpatate) or on his own web site :http://jonathan.dupre.free.fr/ he will help you yo find a solution

Good evening, I was wondering if someone could please upload or provide a link to the voidmp3fm program? All links I have tried are dead. Much thanks

In the last two weeks I have bought very little stock, primarily two off Sony MZ-N707s in partial completeness. My intention is to list a complete one with the best of the bits tonight. I was jotting down serial numbers, and thought I had entered one incorrectly as the last digit was a '5' not a '6' as I had previously seen. To my utter surprise it then dawned on me that the two main units are immediate siblings - one serial number is 5166786, the one I bought earlier 5166785. How amazing is that? I guess they may have even been in the same batch, from the same shop (probably Argos?), and bought around the same time. Yet one came to me from South Wales, the other Byfleet in Surrey. I'm not sure I want to sell them now - after being separated since 'birth' they are finally together again! Anybody else seen an amazing coincidence like that? Jim

Enzo Heavenly I have sent you a PM.

The only guy who could in theory do better than you (I mean even taking pictures of his own desks) is Pierre "100 decks" Nogez in France, who still have 80 decks in stock.

Hi Raintheory and All who are into TOC cloning with the G750 and R700, There is a way to elegantly and "gracefully bypass" the first switch connected to the opening button without breaking anything. Furthermore, it's reversible if you should ever want to turn you unit back into one that shuts off when you open it. Looking at Raintheory's two photographs of the mechanism, (enlarge them on you screen), you see what looks like a piece of sheet metal in front of the black tab. The tab sticks up slightly above the notch in the piece of sheet metal. This piece of sheet metal moves forward when the "open" button is pushed in and slides over the black tab forcing it down. Pushing down that black tab is what has to be avoided. This following procedure should be performed only after removing the lower portion of the outer casing, which is also necessary to modify the other "second" switch. This gives you full access to the part that needs to be adjusted. Here goes: Rather than removing the tab by breaking it off, leave it completely alone. Instead, using very thin meddle nose pliers, grab the piece of sheet metal refered to above and gently turn it upwards to the left so that it is in a standing position instead of laying flat. Thereafter it will slide past the left side of the black tab instead if engaging it. Note: You twist / turn up only the portion of the piece of sheet metal up to the spot where it has a notch for the black tab to stick up, Once it is turned / twisted upward, make sure it does no rub against the bottom side of the deck that is just above it. A very slight downward adjustment will cure that. I will try to photograph my result and post it here so you can see exactly what it looks like when finished. jmsla James

The MDS-SD1 gracefully switches to analog in, when no digital in signal is present. Cool feature, as there is no input select switch on the unit (nor menu entry).

MDLP recordings (LP2/LP4) are transferred as-is, SP/MONO recordings are by default transcoded to Hi-SP, however you can choose to have them uploaded as PCM (recommended). You can choose to have uploads automatically converted to WAV, or manually do it afterward. The resulting WAV can of course be converted to your format of choice. P.S. The RH1 is essentially the same as the M200. The only difference is the price and the fact that the M200 comes with a bundled microphone. You will probably find an RH1 for a good bit less money.

The Sony ATRAC CD Player Boombox: Psyc ZS-SN10 This could possibly be the best boombox I have ever owned. I had the previous generation of Sony ATRAC Psyc ATRAC boombox (SN-YN7) and was disappointed in the weird vertical CD housing, the color scheme, sound, time it took to read ATRAC and mp3 CDs and the fact you had to have the boombox powered on to open the CD housing. Well, Sony got it right with this one. I have had this box since late May/early June 2005 and I am more than pleased. What you get: boombox, power cord, remote, Sony Sonic Stage CD (you have to burn ATRAC CDs with this software if you want to take advantage of the ATRAC sound and compression features), manual. Cost: around $80USD at Best Buy The Design and Looks: The color tones of black and orange of the ZS-SN10 are definitely more pleasing to the eye than the white/grey/orange of the previous Psyc boombox I had (ZS-YN7 model). That YN7 model also had an annoying design that did not allow the handle to be stowed out of the way. Well, the ZS-SN10's handle almost seamlessly stowes away into the boombox and the antenna is secured out of the way. I always felt like the antenna would be the first to go on the old model. By the way, a gal at work bought it for her daughter... Sorry to compare everything on the ZS-SN10 to the YN7 model but that's my experience. Well, I shouldn't complain cause I got both of these with Best Buy gift cards. Ok, back to the review. This paragraph is about looks and design. I think the SN10 does the job very well as the pictures below show. It's been outside more than a few times and my 7 year old has taken to using it to preview my CDs lately but it still looks good to me. Sound Quality: This is where the SN10 is the strongest. The bass is deep and rich, especially with the Mega Bass effect on. There is a 5 sound EQ with 1 custom setting you can adjust. The YN7 did NOT have the custom setting, only the presets. A big upgrade on the sound. I think the redesign of the body style really lets the bass shine on the SN10. The YN7 always sounded tinny and could rattle the box at times. No problems with the bass on the SN10. Basic Functionality: Radio: You have a very decent FM/AM radio receiver that allows setting of favorite stations, etc. I haven't spent much time with that since I don't listen to the radio much other than the NPR jazz late at night. Sleep: You can set the box to turn off at preset times, which is a great feature if you are like me and like to go to sleep listening to music but don't want it to play all night. Advanced Functionality: 1. Line Input: miniplug Having the ability to run a Line Input from a Hi-MD or mp3 player is a great upgrade on the SN10. The Sony site even mentioned that the YN7 had a line input but once I got it out of the package, I found out otherwise. The SN10 took care of that oversight. You simply connect the line input device and press the Line button on the front of the unit. It couldn't be easier to enjoy your recordings off your Hi-MD at a big weekend festival, etc. It's a great way to share your music while camping or if a friend brings over a mp3 player,etc. 2. Multi-codec handling: This unit handles mp3 files: VBR or fixed bitrates without problems. It also handles ATRAC3 and ATRAC3plus bitrates (48kps through Hi-SP 256kps). Hi-SP sounds very close to PCM on this unit, even when cranked to high volume. The reproduction using that codec is super. I haven't noticed any problems with mp3 files in terms of sound playback or artifact productions. I have even found the LP2 105kps very functional on this unit when I want to put a lot of music on 1 CD. It's reproduction of sound at the 105kps bitrate is very enjoyable for outdoor fun on the deck or at the ppol. I have had over 160 songs on 1 CD I made for a reunion and never changed the CD the entire weekend. My only wish is for Sony to allow Sonic Stage to burn ATRAC CDs to all the ATRAC3plus bitrates. I'm sure this unit can handle all of them since it can handle all of the mp3 bitrate ranges I throw at it. The speed of reading ATRAC and mp3 CDs is VASTLY improved over previous generation ATRAC boomboxes. It can read and get ready to play ATRAC CDs with over 100 tunes in only a few seconds. The last model would take forever. It also handles regular CDs and even reads CD Text with scrolling of tune names on the beautiful orange LCD screen. 3. The Orange display screen : You can scroll through various displays showing time remaining, group name, file properties, etc. It's a very useful screen and easy to use. It could be a little bigger but it's easy to read and scrolls when you need it to scroll. You can also scroll through folders or search through folders for tune names,etc. It's very easy using the large buttons on the box or with the intuitive remote control. Pros: Great Sound Great Looks and Design Line Input is easy to connect and access Reads CDs fast Intuitive Remote and Button Layout Cons Sony needs to open the software for all ATRAC3plus bitrates edited on 03Sept05 The playback of mp3 and ATRAC files are NOT gapless. There is a small amount of silence between tracks. It's there but not long enough to be annoying. Screen could be a little wider If possible, make the box more energy effecient, 6 D batteries is a lot of batteries! Pictures of the ZS-SN10