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  1. Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip
    3 points
  2. Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.
    2 points
  3. I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.
    2 points
  4. Good evening gentlemen! If you're in the rather tricky position of losing recording ability on your MD unit, your warrantee's run out, and you're out of luck paying for an extravagent overhaul by sony tech, I might have the solution for you. Although this is my first post, I've been a lurker of these forums for quite some time after buying my first MD unit (R700) a year and a half ago. During this time I've ran through a R900, and now currently using a N1. Recently a friend of mine lost recording capability on his N1 imported from japan. Since it was an import, sony tech started playing games with respect to how much they'd charge to get the unit fixed (in Toronto any way). So he turned to me for help. From what I've seen on these forums, this recording problem always crops up from time to time, and at first I was jaded by the number of complaints in the absence of any sort of helpful info, aside from the lazy lines, "bring it back to get it serviced". Please! The following guide describes how I managed to fix an N1 with the supposedly common "recording" or "blankdisc" problem. I will not guarentee anything; this article is intended as a final option to an otherwise broken MD. ~~~ Notes before we begin: 1. This is intended as a last resort attempt to correct recording problems. You will be making irreversable 'adjustments' to your unit. 2. You will need a certain basic competancy in electronics; ie: be able to spot a broken wire, and not be intimidated by some basic basic soldering. Knowing common vocabulary also helps 3. You will need to take your MD apart, which necessarily voids your warranty. Do this at your own risk! 4. You must work methodically as well as have a sharp eye for details when dissecting your MD. If you cannot take apart your MD and put it back together, don't read further. 5. Find a pair of non-working headphones (that are headed for the trash) or buy the most inexpensive headphones at a local dollar store (we will be using the wires from them). 6. Patience. Don't be surprised if you find it doesn't work perfectly the first time (took me two weeks off and on). 7. Read this over before you attempt anything. Visualize the flow of work and make sure you know what you're doing before picking up that soldering iron! ~~~ Abstract: (for people who know what their MD looks like internally, and want to get to the point) The ribbon cable that services the magnetic write head of the N1 is prone to breaking, as the magnetic head is coupled to the optical head (so even playback will stress the cable). The solution is to bypass the broken ribbon cable with wires, allowing signals to once again reach the write head. The key aspect is the choice of wire used for the bypass; it must be extremely thin and very flexible, to reduce contributing any mechanical resistence to the lateral movement of the read/write heads as they traverse the disc surface. Single conductor wires will not do the job as they offer too much resistence, preventing the read/write heads from traversing the entire range from the inner to the outer edge of a disc. Use the wire scavenged/scuttled from inexpensive earphones for this task, as they are very thin multi conductor wires with a fibre core, and also insulated via coating [?]. ~~~ We will begin with a diagnosis of your problem. I'm working with the N1 for simplicity and knowledge sake (as I've fixed only the N1 so far). 1. Functional Unit: Is your MD able to play recorded discs? If not then you've got bigger problems that I can't solve. 2. Make sure it is a problem with recording: Is your unit able to record via microphone input? (as opposed to problems transferring if using NetMD software). If so, you're having software problems, which is not my focus in this thread. If not, read on! 3. Cleaning: Some times problems can be resolved by cleaning the optical head. Use a cotton swap and some cleaning fluid (not water!). Personally I used rubbing alcohol as it works well with fingerprints and dust. I hope others will correct me or suggest alternatives if you're well acquainted with cleaning solutions. Test to see if the problem persists. 4a. Dissection: Download the service manual for your MD model (if you can) and follow the diagrams to remove the outer shell of the unit. For most Sony models, the casing is a two piece design; the bottom segment covers the circuitry board and battery, while the top consists of the operative buttons while serving to protect the recording head. Following the service manual steps should let you take apart the casing easily. Remember for the N1 (and similar), the battery cover must go first, then the bottom casing, then the top. Note: 'Open' the MD (as in popping it open like you were going to insert a disc), remove battery cover, then remove bottom casing. You should see a ribbon cable that runs from the top casing connected to the circuit board via a special 'connector'. Remove the screws securing the top casing, and flip it over so you can see the inside of the MD, while keeping the ribbon cable attached. The ribbon cable is anchored to the board via a flat 'connector'. The 'connector' is a two piece construct; you can release the cable by pulling softly on the two sides of the connector segment facing the ribbon. Do not, do not tug on the ribbon cable itself. If you find the ribbon difficult to detach, it means you havn't released the connector yet. Don't go any further if you can't pass this step, undo everything and take it to the sony dealer. Sony's portable MD recorder designs are relatively universal. You should be able to identify the optical lens head, attached to the motors and the axle that allows it to track the disc. This (to the best of my knowledge) is similar to a cd player optical head, so no surprises. The optical head is on the 'bottom' of the unit, and stays horizontal even when you open the case for inserting discs. You should also notice the magnetic write head, attached to a metal arm that is fixed to the 'top' of the interior chasis, which can move up and down to accomodate insertion of discs. Take care in not touching the metal arm or the magnetic write head. 4b. Test Reattach the battery clip, and insert the gumstick battery. Close battery cover to secure battery. Your view of your opened MD should be birds-eye, with the chasis popped up as if accepting a disc. Insert a disc with content in it. Preferably a full disc. Make sure it is write protected. Instead of pushing down on the left chasis arm to 'load the disc', you can detach the left chasis arm (by pulling it gently to the left farther), and let the chasis , along with the disc, drop into the loaded position. Get something to keep the right chasis arm down (as it activates a switch that tells the unit the cover is closed, allowing you to turn it on). You should be able to turn on and play the disc using the controls on the top casing, while being able to see the disc spin and the magnetic head track across the disc surface. Pay attention to how high it floats above the disc (vertical distance) Stop the player, and remove whatever you used to close the right chasis arm switch (let the arm lift up). The unit should turn off by now as it thinks you opened the case to pop a disc out. The disc itself won't pop out as you've released the left chasis arm that helps lift the disc out. You must lift the chasis yourself and remove the disc. Replace with an empty or expendable disc, and once again load it (using steps above). Try to record to the disc (you don't need any input), while paying close attention to the magnetic write head. Make detailed observations regarding the vertical distance of the head relative to the disc. You will need to refer to it further on. It is closer to the disc surface when you are recording than when you are in playback. Eject the disc once again, and remove the battery, detaching the ribbon cable from the top casing, put the top casing somewhere safe. 5. Identifying the source of the problem: At this point the problem should be apparent. There is a ribbon cable that connects the magnetic read head, runs through the flexible metal arm, and traces a path to the circuit board on the bottom, where it is soldered at two points to the board. This cable is easily broken, and this should be your problem, if you find a broken cable. If you've got keen eyesight you should also notice that the magnetic write head has only two leads (wires)!, and also the magnetic head + arm construct is intimately connected to the optical head/block, so that the magnetic head moves in unison with the optical head. Since the magnetic head is coupled (intimately attached) with the optical head, the ribbon cable servicing the magnetic head is always under use, even when you're not recording anything (ie: during simple playback). This is the exact problem. At this point it is obvious what steps must be taken to fix the problem. Simply bypass the broken ribbon cable and you should be fine, right? 6. The broken cable: At first I tried using liquid solder (comes in a pen, you can 'draw' solder lines with it) to patch up the ribbon cable, but it doesn't work well. It seems the ribbon cable consists of a paper-like 'base' or substrate, with very thin copper wire (they're flat so i'm supposing that these wires are printed onto the substrate) deposited on top, finally covered with a protective and flexible polymer/plastic. I must admit it is an elegent design, as well as a major pain to replace. This is the toughest step; replacing the ribbon cable. You must find wiring that is very very thin, yet very flexible and pliable. Even the smallest gauge wires you can find in 'surplus' stores will not do the job. Do not use single conductor insulated wires (wires with only a single copper wire insulated with plastic), even if they are extremely thin, as they are not flexible enough to do the job (yes they may feel very flexible in your hands however). The motor mechanism that drives the motion of the optical/magnetic head (not the disc motor) is very sensitive to resistance; it is so sensitive that single conductor wires will provide enough mechanical resistance to prevent the heads from moving/tracking far at all (more on this later). I has taken me a month of trial and error before realizing the best wires for the job are the multi conductor wires within cheap headphones work best for this situation. Most cheap earphones (using the earbud types as an example) have two wires originating from the stereo plug, one wire for each ear. Cut the plug off, and split the two wires. You only need a wire length equivalent to the distance covered by the original ribbon cable, so save the rest for other odd jobs i suppose (don't forget to leave a little margin, in case). Strip the wires and you should see that each 'wire' servicing the earbuds actually consist of two very thin and fragile wires, each wrapped around a fiber core. Generally the copper wires are 'ground' and the coloured wires (red and blue) carry the signal. You can use any of them; I decided to go with the red and blue just for simplicity in wiring. Prepare the wires by applying very very little amuont of solder to one end. I suggest dipping the end in flux, then melt the solder so it flows onto the wire. Very little solder is needed. You don't want the solder to 'weight down' the magnetic head. 7. Bypassing the ribbon cable: Attaching wires to existing ribbon cable is a difficult process and can be 'hit and miss' as the printed wiring beneath the plastic sheath is rather thin. You might just burn through the ribbon too. Here's another tricky part: Make a detailed note of the vertical position the metal arm is when at rest (floating above the optical head). Chances are you will bend the arm out of the original shape when you're working with it. The arm must be at a certain position in order to be able to record. Too close to the disc and you will scratch it. Too far from the disc surface and you will lose recording ability. Carefully detach the metal arm that carries the magnetic head from the rest of the MD by removing the single screw that secures it. It will be difficult as it is also glued down. Take your time and be careful, using a fitting screwdriver (I used a flat head rather than the philips (cross) as flat heads don't strip the thread as easily - your preference) and making sure you don't strip the screw. Remember the shape of the arm! Once you've detached the arm, look at the bottom side. You will see two relatively large solder points where the magnetic write head is wired to the ribbon cable. I soldered the two headphone wires to these points (existing solder at these points should be enough to accomodate the wires). Make sure you don't create a short circuit (check for solder bridging). Secure the soldered wires by threading them though the holes of the metal arm (don't worry, the ribbon cable is useless to you now). Let the wires trail same path the ribbon cable used to take. They should be long enough to allow the read/write heads to reach the outer edge of a disc, but not too long that it gets cluttered up when the read/write heads return to the inner areas of a disc, as clutter will cause resistance and that will hamper read/write head movement. Cut any excess wire, and prepare and solder the other end to the points on the circuit board where the ribbon cable was anchored. Take note of which wire solders to which point from tracing the paths taken by each wire within the ribbon cable. (this is simple, you shouldn't mix it up at all given only two wires!) Reform the original shape of the metal arm (if you've bent it, which you should have avoided), and reattach the arm back to the MD. Make sure it is not skewed (should be perfectly in line) and tightly screwed back in as you don't want any misalignment. Check the vertical distance of the arm to make sure it is floating at the same height as it was before you detached it. This is crucial. 8. Testing: Your MD should be fixed by now, but we want to make sure. Reattach the ribbon cable of the top casing (the casing with the play/rec controls), but keep the cover loose (don't screw it in). Be careful not to break this ribbon cable (haha!) Reinsert the gumstick battery. Close battery cover to secure battery. Your view of your opened MD should be birds-eye, with the chasis popped up as if accepting a disc. Insert a disc with content in it. Preferably a full disc. Make sure it is write protected. You should be able to turn on and play the disc using the controls on the top casing, while being able to see the disc spin and the magnetic head track across the disc surface. Try playing some tracks now, especially try to play track 1 (close to inner area of disc), then jumping straight to the last song (which should be at the outer edge of the disc, assuming you didn't move any tracks). You should have no problems with the read/write heads tracking from inner to outer edge of the disc. If you do, it means your wires are causing too much resistence (which means you're using too thick wires! redo it with thinner, more flexible wires). Stop the player, and replace with an empty or expendable disc, and once again load it (using steps above). Now test by recording from mic-in. Keen observers will notice the magnetic write head arm will be lowered closer to the surface of the disc when recording. Play back to see if you've managed to record anything. If not, retrace your prior soldering and wiring steps and see if you missed any details. At this point, the most critical detail (aside from obvious wiring connectivity mistakes), is the vertical distance the magnetic head floats above the disc when recording. Make sure it lies the same vertical distance from the disc surface when recording as it did during your initial test before the bypass. Once you've managed to get it to record and playback audio from the mic-in, you've sucessfully repaired your MD! 9. Reassembling Remove the discs, and reclip the left chasis arm with the chasis. Secure the top casing first, making sure you don't crush your new wires. Remove the battery and the battery cover, so you can reattach the bottom casing. Take care when reattaching the bottom casing, as you've got to fit the hold switch on the bottom face as well as the 'open' switch (to open the shell for discs). You won't be able to fit the bottom casing snugly without being able to fit the hold and open switches as well. Reattach battery cover and put back all the screws you took out (should be 9 screws in total). Power the unit up and do one more recording test on it using mic-in, then try downloading songs through the cradle. Done! I hope this long article will help those of you out there stuck with a broken recorder. Good luck! Update: The N1 I fixed a week back lost recording ability once again after spending a long, hot day in my backpack while I was out hiking. You may run into intermittent problems when the MD has experienced a temperature change. I solved this issue by reopening the top cover and gently pushing the flexible write head arm down towads the optical head several times ("flexing" it), so it would acheive tighter floating distance to the disc when recording, and problem was solved! Note that in order to push it down, you've got to have the chasis 'lowered', so detach the left chasis arm first, or else the metal construct that holds the MD disc will prevent the write head from behing pushed down; you need to flex it so that it can almost touch the optical head. You don't need to flex too much, a slight 1/4 mm adjustment is enough. When you're done flexing, just make sure the head isn't scratching the disc by testing recording while the top cover is still removed, but with ribbon cable still attached so you can control the unit) As an aside, if you've read through the service manuals for most sony units, there's a section on temperature calibration in service mode. I believe that serves the same purpose; namely to reposition the vertical distance of the write head when temperature change affects the metal arm. Interesting stuff! Update #2: Mag. Write-head must be in contact with the disc surface. To avoid skipping issues when recording, clean both sides of the disc. You may also want to quickly wipe the bottom 'contact surface' of the mag.head as well, with a cotton tip, as I've found grime buildup there that lifted the mag.head, hence no contact. Be careful though! Update #3: Ressurecting an old post, if you have problems where the unit blanks the disc and makes it unreadable (and hence unformattable by sonicstage), there is a dirty hack to manually format the disc. Don't do this if you have no idea how to navigate service mode or understand the implications of a mis-executed hack. So far, I know it works on my N1, and has been reported to work on the N710. 1. Get into service mode: set (hold) on; hold down (vol -); >, >, <, <, >, <, >, <, (pause), (pause). 2. access [AUTOCOM 500] using (vol +), enter using (play). 3. access [510 ACCESS] using (play). 4. starting at [511 xxSCC], move to [518 xxS03] using (>). 5. change S03 to S00 using (vol +/-), so the value reads [518 xxS00]. 6. press (stop) to execute. 7. disc mechanism should be heard rattling. 8. exit service mode by removing power. voila, the corrupted disc should be blanked. info thanks to leorick original post here
    1 point
  5. Hello everyone, this is my first post in this forum... I've recently discovered that the BCA-NWHD3 adapter that came with the Sony NW-HD3 player can also be used with Sony MZ-N10 NetMD player. Both devices have the same proprietary port for data transfer and charging. All you need to do is to cut a piece of plastic that supports the adapter when connecting to the device (I used my Dremel tool to cut it; very easy stuff). Then you can attach the adapter to MZ-N10 and use a regular mini USB cable to connect the MD player to your computer. You can also charge the player via DC-in jack with an auxiliary AC-DC adapter. I use a 5V Sony PSP power adapter by the way; it works flawlessly for charging MZ-N10. Unfortunately, you cannot attach the BCA-NWHD3 adapter to the charging cradle. Because of the plastic housing, it doesn't fit into the cradle. Hope this information may help someone who is searching for a "hard to find" USB cable for MZ-N10... Here are some photos:
    1 point
  6. The MiniDiscs I most enjoy stumbling across are the ones where I’d made an unlabelled (except for possibly noting the month/year) “mixtape” back in the day and being reminded of a point in time. It’s interesting being reminded of what I’d been listening to in, say, May 2001 or August 1998.
    1 point
  7. ANy one have any opinion what the website was doing when it was off. Some times there was what seemed like a blue set of sony menues but each option in the address bar had a very very long line of random characters that to my mind looked like some kind of malware code,. So I thought the site had been hacked
    1 point
  8. This is my first ever post on a forum, so hopefully I have done things correctly. For any members who may be interested, I have built a simple MiniDisc laser power meter which should prove cheap and reproducible. There seemed to be interest in such things before the forum's recent disappearance. I have posted full details of my prototype here.- https://billingtonrepairs.wordpress.com/projects/a-simple-diy-laser-power-meter-for-minidisc-decks/
    1 point
  9. Good luck! Let us know if you find a working method :-)
    1 point
  10. I've not tried it but maybe Web MiniDisc or Platinum MD might be able to do it? Web MiniDisc: https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ / https://github.com/cybercase/webminidisc/wiki/Support-and-FAQ Platinum MD: https://platinum-md.app/ / https://github.com/gavinbenda/platinum-md#readme
    1 point
  11. I don't suppose you have access to an older MD deck do you? I use my MDS-JE500 to wipe discs that have been write protected via SonicStage.
    1 point
  12. Hello. I have recently rediscovered my Minidiscs and also purchased my first Net MD capable player / recorder. Even though people keep telling me not to use SonicStage, I've come to prefer it. I got SS 4.3 from these forums and installed it in a VirtualBox VM running Windows XP SP3. I like ripping my CDs to ATRAC Lossless and using those files to transfer to MDs using either LP2 or SP (if I want to play on my older MD units). However, I got sick of typing the CD info in and was looking for a way to automate this in SS 4.3 and I have come up with what I feel is a halfway decent solution. I've created a new Windows app that I call SonicStageTitles that I can paste the track listing into and this program generates a VBScript that can type the titles into SS. The basic work flow is: search the CD catalog number at Discogs.com highlight & copy the track info paste this into SonicStageTitles click the "Extract Titles" button, verify or fix anything that looks incorrect click the "Generate Script" button check what it generated in the "VBScript body" text box (make sure there aren't any bad characters) click the "Run VBScript" button SonicStage will be brought to the foreground A dialog will appear stating that after you click "Ok" you have 7 seconds to get the first track in edit mode Click OK Click on the first track (click again, if it wasn't already highlighted) See that track 1 is in edit mode with all characters highlighted Sit and watch as the generated VBScript script types all the track names in for me I know that seeing 13 steps listed there might seem like a lot but, it's really pretty dang easy and a lot easier than typing titles manually. If anyone else is interested in using SonicStageTitles, let me know and I will hook you up with a copy to try out. I've only tested it in WinXP with SS 4.3 so, I have no idea if it works in other versions of Windows or with other versions of SS. Also, I hear that the latest Win 10 update prevents VBScripts from using the sendKeys command. If that's true, then this script will not work on those versions of Win 10.
    1 point
  13. Here is the thing then: the 640 does work now with PC-Link and M-Crew. (See my uncut, lame video at the end - "Welcome to Paradise" :-) .) Yes, it is done, and I feel this is a breakthrough, after all those unsuccessful tries in the past, including my previous attempts back in 2017 or so. The icing on the cake is the 640 has kept all its keyboard functionalities too ! I guess what you are mostly interested in is how this was made possible, and what's needed to replicate it on your machines - the shiny, polished, step-by-step guide and documentation I originally wanted to post here can wait. The beauty is that it's like Columbus' egg. Plain and simple, and all of you will now say "gosh, I should have done this easily". [I had not reinvented the wheel either, really. What I did was I took the recently purchased S50's main board I did not fear to sacrifice and began doing actual measurements of what lines/signals go where, what connections, pull-up resistors, etc. are there, and compared the thing to the SM-s. The big surprise came when I realized none of the SM-s (640, S50, PC3, etc.) tell you the true story, because this or that is different here and there, from what is on paper and what is actually on the board. Looked too complex, and I got misled quite a few times when working only from the SM-s.] I distilled all this information down to a simple, clean solution. No matter which version you have (EU, US/CAN, etc.), just follow this: [In a nutshell: there is nothing special required, everything is there already in the machine (this was my theory afterall, and it finally stood). Very minor things must be checked and supplemented, but nothing that could not be done DIY.] Check this silly drawing: These are the lines (marked with green) that must be there, all the way from the PS2 socket down to the MCU (other lines are all there, nothing to do with them). Follow these lines on your actual boards/wires one by one and see if you can get there all along. If there are jumper wires and/or 0 ohm resistors and/or inductances in series, leave them there. If you see some pull-up (typically 4k7 or 10k) and/or pull-down resistors (typically 100k) or parallel capacitors, you can also leave them all there. If the continuity breaks somewhere, look after what is missing. What must be there in order to get this working, i.e., must be supplemented in case they are missing (and normally are - see my photos with the details below): - R36 and R37 (very tiny 0 Ohm resistors) are not populated on the main board (@sfbp, you have been this close, all the rest you did well!), - two wires are missing, from CN820 on the MB up to the keyboard pcb (as seen also on @sfbp's photos), making sure you solder them in proper order (do not accidentally swap them), and - two 100 ohm resistors need to be soldered on the keyboard PCB in the positions marked "L805" and "L806" (well, plain jumper wires would also work, but in some PC-Link models these serial resistances are there, for a reason I guess). (Warning: - when measuring traces on and wires between pcb-s, don't just use your DMM directly in resistance or continuity mode. See more on this here.) - make sure you and your device are properly ESD protected, and never work on a powered up machine.) This is it, and you're done. I would love to see then the feedback from people who succesfully replicated this on their machines. - - - Next steps that now are also doable using the same approach: - for "technical maximalism": build the I2C extender circuit mentioned above (good news: the keyboard PCB is already prepared just needs to be populated, and only THT parts are required), - probably the "most wanted" one: make the 940 work like the Japanese version, PC-Link and keyboard, - a "side effect": make the keyboard work on the S50 (and on the 470 too) - similary to the I2C buffer, the MB pcb already has this area, just unpopulated, - and an "opportunity" for the low end machines: make the 440 (!) work with PC-Link and even accept a keyboard too. And some mandatory, due thanks: - @kgallen - I value your attitude for getting things done quickly (like in the case of the copybit killer stuff). This pushed me out of my "laziness". - @sfbp - your photo gave me the final "kick" that my hypothesis was right, and that I had to finish my research and do the soldering part at last. When I saw your 640's main board, I immediately realized why your attempt was unsuccessful. (And I asked for some new photos because this very part was hardly visible caused by the bright spot of the flash, but then I came across finally even without them.) - @Sony - having these features already built in (only disguised for certain markets ...) MOV01439.MPG
    1 point
  14. Hi Christopher. I think I've worked out the issue with me being able to reply to threads. It's just threads in the Announcements and News sub-forums I cannot reply to and I suspect that might be by design rather than any sort of fault. I seem to have lost the ability to "like" any posts made by moderators/administrators but the option is still there for posts by normal members. Like the new look and many thanks for keeping this place running!
    1 point
  15. Confirmation that the BCA-NWHD3 adapter also works with the NH1. It also works for power/charging when a 6V adapter is connected.
    1 point
  16. I was fortunate enough to spot a BCA-MZNH1 stand when it appeared on eBay at the weekend and snapped it up - I have uploaded a photo that confirms that the NH1 definitely requires 6V. I also tested my power supply with a multi-meter and it is delivering 6.15V but not sure what current is being delivered as the multi-voltage adapter delivers 3-12V max 1.2A. The end result is the same though, the charge light comes on for almost 20 seconds and then goes off (as does the display on the NH1) - I left it on the stand overnight with power connected but still no life from the battery so Jimma's battery re-build is looking the more likely solution as NGY's method is a bit above my technical experience. One final thing I can try (but I am not expecting the outcome to be any different) in a few days as I was lucky enough to win a job lot of HD1s on eBay that includes a Sony AC-ES608K (6V 800mA) power supply. That bundle should arrive early next week and, in the meantime, I will continue periodically tying to initiate a charge cycle on the NH1 as I have know some smartphones that have been caught in a re-charge loop when they have not been used in a while and the battery has been almost completely discharged and then suddenly contains enough charge to begin a full charge cycle.
    1 point
  17. I have tested your new version and it works very well, the only field I now have to type myself, after the import of the CD, is Year Released. Your program is especially useful when importing a CD and want the result files coded as Atrac Advanced Lossless, for other lossless (or lossy) codecs there are several (free) rip programs with direct connection to Discogs or MusicBrainz etc.. For example you can rip to WMA lossless and import the files in SonicStage while keeping the tags. Your instructions how to use the program are very good also.
    1 point
  18. I just wanted to update this forum on my solution so maybe it MIGHT help someone else in a similar situation. I went ahead and carefully took apart the unit. I was able to release the front display ribbon connector cable from the main circuit board and very gently clean the contacts with some 99% isopropyl alcohol. This is kind of dangerous as apparently (I learned about this later), that the contacts are leaded. If you clean them too much, you might simply "wipe" the contacts away and ruin the connector. Well, I did use a light touch and when I put it all back together, my LCD was back in business. So in my case, it was definitely an issue with oxidation. Unit is now back to its former glory
    1 point
  19. Here you can download the SM of the MZ-R909.
    1 point
  20. I saw the same case once, although it was an MXD-D3 combo deck, not a portable. The solution was cleaning the two sensor microswitches (i.e., the prerecorded media detector and the writeable media read-only tab detector switches) with some contact cleaning/lubricating spray, then the problem disappeared.
    1 point
  21. You EE-types are paying good attention to every detail! I have a mundane observation to contribute. My Sony MDS-JA22ES was a Japan domestic model, 100v. My being in the US, to be safe I used a stepdown to get to 100. There were some well-documented (here) issues with the unit, but power wasn't one of them. But the display, while good, was on the dimmer side, especially when compared to other MD decks near it. So I gave it a try minus the voltage converter. The display brightened up considerably. However, the majority of opinions that I sought advised that long-term, probably not the best thing to do. I retreated to converter safety and put up with the dimmer display. Compare this to my MXD-D400, also a Japan domestic, also using a converter—in fact, the same converter the 22ES used. It has a normal, bright display and has never been subjected directly to US voltage. I suppose what I am saying is that for a machine like the S500 or my D400, perhaps it is better to just use a converter if that is reasonable. The S500 in particular is a rare find. Like to note that my converter, while not a brick, is larger and more substantial than a travel-size one I had, which eventually failed. If the D400 is happy, then I'm happy!
    1 point
  22. I like your approach, Kevin, and yes, on the low voltage DC side the regulator circuits should be OK with even a 15...20% higher input voltage. However, the main risk here is at the transformer side. Not sure about Sony, but in the commercial goods world it is common to squeeze out the most possible performance using the least possible material. When it comes to an AC power transformer, we speak about a lot of iron and copper to be saved. Then, when you consider how a transformer works, a 10...20% increase in the AC voltage can result a much higher increase in the energy "pumped" into the transformer, and that "extra" converts to different kind of losses (iron core loss, copper wire loss, etc.), and ultimately, heat. Normally, such a transformer is designed to work near the limit of possible magnetic saturation of the core, to keep the size (= cost of the material) small. If you go over this limit, that's when problems happen. Same for the copper windings: the diameter of the wire is designed to bear the maximum current that particular device is expected to draw. But if you increase the voltage, with the same copper resistance, the current will increase, so will the heat generated inside the copper. On top of all, this is a non-linear function :-( . I.e., 10% more current (or voltage) means 20+ % more energy, and 20% more current means 40+ % more energy. We did not speak about electric and magnetic (also, audible) noises of an over-saturated transformer, or voltage swings on the AC net, that can take the input AC voltage way higher, than the nominal value. Example: it is not uncommon on the 230V grids, that the voltage occassionally goes up to 238...242V. I believe it is similar on the 100/110/120V grids too. Imagine, if a device meant to be used on a 100V line gets a - say - 125...126V AC input voltage on a 120V net.
    1 point
  23. Hi Stan, welcome to the forums. These are all good signs of the device not yet being fully dead. That the power button works shows your MCU is alive - it is sensing some of the buttons and can control the standby/power on led, therefore, it seems it is not blocked by a fault somewhere, that would cause the MCU forcing the device stay in Standby. That the disc load/eject works shows that your BD board is alive (might have some faults though - to be figured out later on). Let's begin with the trivial stuff: - I would first check the two ribbons that connect the drive to the main board. On the 500/510 decks it is fairly easy to seat one of the ribbons the wrong way, at the main board end. The wider one is pretty straigthforward (i.e., short enough, and folded sharply), but the other one can be plugged 180 degrees twisted around (I faced this issue a couple of times, and luckily those decks always survived this mistake). Both ribbons' contacts should face the rear of the deck, not the front. In other words, the ribbon side with the writing on it is facing the rear, the plain white side is facing the front. - second I would check the front panel's ribbon, for contacts peeling off like this, or being damaged otherwise: - then there is a display/controls check mode you can try, to see whether or not your display driver is alive, and/or the MCU can sense all other buttons/switches, as well as the IR sensor. Turn the deck off with the switch on the back panel, press and keep the AMS knob and the record button pushed, then switch the deck back on. The display should lit all segments, then by pressing each buttons one by one, you can turn off the segments one by one. Once all done, other tests can be performed, following the instructions appearing on the display. Let us know the outcomes of these checks, and we can take it from there.
    1 point
  24. OK so I made two ;-) Was pretty straightforward from the instructions given on the original site. It's a very well-designed shell for the parts, and my earlier doubts about the battery being loose in the frame were unfounded as I didn't read properly: it is held in place with glue between its 'wings' and the frame. A few minor comments: The areas on a new print that catch inside the MZ-NH1 casing are the '+' and '-' characters, which were printed raised a bit too high. Easily reduced with careful sandpapering. The new LiPo battery's original orange sellotape, that covers the small charge regulator PCB, presents a raised hard edge to the MD battery slot as you slide it in. To fix this I carefully removed the orange stuff and replaced it with Scotch Magic tape, the edges of which were tucked below the height of the main battery and sealed with superglue. A better solution may be to embed the PCB in UV-setting epoxy, but this works well for now and the battery is protected inside the MD case. I charged the new assembly outside the MZ-NH1, just in case something had gone wrong with the circuitry, but it proceeded fine. Currently got two MD units soak-testing with continuous play, but 2 SP MDs into the test there is still full charge indicated on the displays. Now all that's needed is a case to hold a few of these...
    1 point
  25. As for fine setting the laser: before anything, I must ephasize two things. First: changing any settings in SM without the necessary test gear (and background knowledge) is risky. I can give you some "educated guesses", but a proper work is to be done with the appropriate tools (LPM, DMM, test jigs, oscilloscope, test discs). Second: calibrating the laser is a complex procedure, sometimes requires multiple takes on adjustments that also depend on or influence each other. A simplified overview of the laser settings: - power = laser emissions, for reading and recording. - traverse = how the sled is moved - focus = how the laser "keeps" in the track and reads the sectors - gain control = output levels for re-writeable/pre-recorded discs Normally, we begin with measuring the laser power (=light emission from the laser diode) and the IOP (=electrical current through the laser diode at certain light emission points, as an important indicator of the laser's "health"). It's a quick check to see if the laser diode is OK. But since you probably don't have the mentioned tools, we do some error checks instead. Please follow the Service Manual of the 510, section 5-1. - and jot down those "C1" and "AD" figures, on the major areas of a disc (at the innermost area, somewhere in the middle, and close to the outer edge). These numbers may fluctuate, then go for the rough from-to range you can observe. (Hints: 1./ perform these checks with a disc recorded in your portable, not in the 510 or the 501, and 2./ make sure you choose a disc that runs visually true, because a disc that hits even the lowest amount gives hard time in the setting process later). Repeat the check with a pre-recorded disc too, if you have one. Let us know the results, so we can see where the laser is making the most reading errors. Next step: Service Manual section 6-2. - in Service Mode select "“LDPWR CHECK”, and without touching anything else, please take notes of those "$XX" hexadecimal values, both for 0.9 mW and 7.0 mW . Then here is the "educated guess" part: in SM select “LDPWR ADJ”, and change the "$XX" value for 0.9 mW one digit less (don't change the other value for 7.0 mW). Try playing back one of the discs you recorded in the 510 previously. If the disc still skips, decrease again the value by one digit only. Playback. If no success, you can go the opposite direction: first write back the original value you took a note of, and change that "$XX" value for 0.9 mW one digit higher. Playback, and repeat it with one or two more digits increase if needed. If still no good, just write back the original value again and we stop there. This is all what we can do if we are "flying blind". (Well, you can also try adjusting the focus bias - section 12. -, but that is really a tough one... )
    1 point
  26. Lip-8 contains a very standard 14650 battery - easy to fit in the empty case - I just worked a blade around the seam, separated the case and pulled off the spot welded terminals with care (snipe nosed pliers did the trick for me). inserted new 14650 and reassembled the case around it. - Usual disclaimer about safety - Please note that I am only describing what I did, not how to do it yourself - Lithium batteries need special care.
    1 point
  27. The only guy who could in theory do better than you (I mean even taking pictures of his own desks) is Pierre "100 decks" Nogez in France, who still have 80 decks in stock.
    1 point
  28. Hi Jaywars, I'm also a user of Sony Minidisc Recorders (MZ/N10 and MZ/RH1) and had the same problems as you. On internet I found the following solution: 1) Browse to the directory C:\Program files\Common files\Sony Shared\OpenMG\restorable, then you will find two files, namely icv.dat and maclist.dat; 2) Select both these files and copy them to the parent folder C:\Program files\Common files\Sony Shared\OpenMG; 3) After closing these directories etc. launch the SonicStage icon on your screen; 4) I have executed these procedure for both Windows XP (desktop computer) and Windows 7 Ultimate (notebook) and in both cases it was succesfull.
    1 point
  29. Ok, but is that link for the U.S. version?
    1 point
  30. These were improvements in ATRAC encoding. Type R was a 2 pass system that was incorporated into portables when processing power became powerful enough to do the extra processing. Type S improved the ATRAC3 performance in a similiar fashion. Both of these changes were to the encoder and required no changes to the playback processing
    1 point
  31. It is certainly NOT Sony's fault that US Best Buy stores do not stock 1GB MDs. Vendors DO NOT tell stores what to stock, the stores make those decisions.
    1 point
  32. Is there a reason you are transfering tracks in SP mode? You are aware that SP mode when transfering over Netmd is actually 'fake' sp, in that it is the EXACT same bitrate as LP2, just wrapped with some coding that makes the files playable on a minidisc player/recorder without LP2/LP4 playback capability>?
    1 point
  33. Hi guys I have been trawling through all this for a couple days. I am way confused. I d/l the sonicsoundstage ultimate version but I cant get/find the drivers for my Sharp Net Md IM-DR410E(s) Been reading a lot of conflicting posts on various sites with a lot of old dead ends. Im not even sure allthough some say to the contrary sonic sound stage is compatible. Is there an alterntive software or how indeed do i find these mystery drivers...... Pete
    0 points
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