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  1. Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!
    2 points
  2. Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.
    2 points
  3. It's a couple of months later (and more) since I ran the the E10 direct to my my Kanto TUK powereds. Since then, I have added a Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 to the mix. It has a Wolfson WM8742 chip for its DAC, and I have the E10 connected to it via coax. For me, at least, the DM100 exceeds both the E10's AK4524 and the TUK's own DSP in how it sounds. Yes, MD decks have long been renowned for their DACs, but this is a new level of detail I'm hearing. (I'm allowing for the TUK's AMT tweeters.)
    1 point
  4. I have used them both ways, CD > MD & MD > CD, the latter to enable ripping the result into iTunes. This was a project that took about two years. I even have a folder in iTunes devoted to that effort: "MD/CD Heaven." The editing abilities of minidisc completely surpass those of CD, where there isn't much you can do post-recording.
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. Nice looking machine. In which dimension is it 2 inches bigger than normal hi-fi?
    1 point
  7. Nice set up @fourbanks 🙂
    1 point
  8. Yeah, I think the CD player naming convention works the same way as for MiniDiscs: XE/JE - entry level models XB/JB - QS models XA/JA - ES models The ES models follow a different pattern but for XE/JE and XB/JB the following applies: 9X0 is higher in the range than 8X0, which is higher in the range than 7X0, which is higher in the range than 6X0 > 5X0 > 4X0 > 3X0 > 2X0 etc X80 is newer than X70, which is newer than X40, which is newer than X30, which is newer than X20 etc Amplifiers of the same era were TA-FE / TA-FB / TA-FA. Cassette decks were TC-KE / TC-KB / TC-KA. Analogue tuners were ST-SE / ST-SB / ST-SA. CD players are CDP / Super Audio CD players are SCD.
    1 point
  9. A while back a site appeared offering replacement cases for pre-recorded MiniDiscs: https://minidisc.me/ They were offering them in a variety of colours but they never actually seemed to have anything in stock, at least not when I looked. Anyway, Retro Style Media in the UK, who also sell blanks and the smaller jewel cases for MiniDiscs, have now got the larger cases in stock: Full Size MiniDisc Case with a Black Inner Tray They're not cheap but might be worth a look if you've got some cracked cases?
    1 point
  10. Great that you've got your machine working again, @multiwirth 🙂 Gerry also sells stuff like this via the r/minidisc Reddit under the name gerry88inHongKong (in case anyone's interested but doesn't use Facebook):
    1 point
  11. Good to see you back @bluecrab 🙂
    1 point
  12. You're a bad, bad influence @kgallen 🤦‍♂️
    1 point
  13. Good evening gentlemen! If you're in the rather tricky position of losing recording ability on your MD unit, your warrantee's run out, and you're out of luck paying for an extravagent overhaul by sony tech, I might have the solution for you. Although this is my first post, I've been a lurker of these forums for quite some time after buying my first MD unit (R700) a year and a half ago. During this time I've ran through a R900, and now currently using a N1. Recently a friend of mine lost recording capability on his N1 imported from japan. Since it was an import, sony tech started playing games with respect to how much they'd charge to get the unit fixed (in Toronto any way). So he turned to me for help. From what I've seen on these forums, this recording problem always crops up from time to time, and at first I was jaded by the number of complaints in the absence of any sort of helpful info, aside from the lazy lines, "bring it back to get it serviced". Please! The following guide describes how I managed to fix an N1 with the supposedly common "recording" or "blankdisc" problem. I will not guarentee anything; this article is intended as a final option to an otherwise broken MD. ~~~ Notes before we begin: 1. This is intended as a last resort attempt to correct recording problems. You will be making irreversable 'adjustments' to your unit. 2. You will need a certain basic competancy in electronics; ie: be able to spot a broken wire, and not be intimidated by some basic basic soldering. Knowing common vocabulary also helps 3. You will need to take your MD apart, which necessarily voids your warranty. Do this at your own risk! 4. You must work methodically as well as have a sharp eye for details when dissecting your MD. If you cannot take apart your MD and put it back together, don't read further. 5. Find a pair of non-working headphones (that are headed for the trash) or buy the most inexpensive headphones at a local dollar store (we will be using the wires from them). 6. Patience. Don't be surprised if you find it doesn't work perfectly the first time (took me two weeks off and on). 7. Read this over before you attempt anything. Visualize the flow of work and make sure you know what you're doing before picking up that soldering iron! ~~~ Abstract: (for people who know what their MD looks like internally, and want to get to the point) The ribbon cable that services the magnetic write head of the N1 is prone to breaking, as the magnetic head is coupled to the optical head (so even playback will stress the cable). The solution is to bypass the broken ribbon cable with wires, allowing signals to once again reach the write head. The key aspect is the choice of wire used for the bypass; it must be extremely thin and very flexible, to reduce contributing any mechanical resistence to the lateral movement of the read/write heads as they traverse the disc surface. Single conductor wires will not do the job as they offer too much resistence, preventing the read/write heads from traversing the entire range from the inner to the outer edge of a disc. Use the wire scavenged/scuttled from inexpensive earphones for this task, as they are very thin multi conductor wires with a fibre core, and also insulated via coating [?]. ~~~ We will begin with a diagnosis of your problem. I'm working with the N1 for simplicity and knowledge sake (as I've fixed only the N1 so far). 1. Functional Unit: Is your MD able to play recorded discs? If not then you've got bigger problems that I can't solve. 2. Make sure it is a problem with recording: Is your unit able to record via microphone input? (as opposed to problems transferring if using NetMD software). If so, you're having software problems, which is not my focus in this thread. If not, read on! 3. Cleaning: Some times problems can be resolved by cleaning the optical head. Use a cotton swap and some cleaning fluid (not water!). Personally I used rubbing alcohol as it works well with fingerprints and dust. I hope others will correct me or suggest alternatives if you're well acquainted with cleaning solutions. Test to see if the problem persists. 4a. Dissection: Download the service manual for your MD model (if you can) and follow the diagrams to remove the outer shell of the unit. For most Sony models, the casing is a two piece design; the bottom segment covers the circuitry board and battery, while the top consists of the operative buttons while serving to protect the recording head. Following the service manual steps should let you take apart the casing easily. Remember for the N1 (and similar), the battery cover must go first, then the bottom casing, then the top. Note: 'Open' the MD (as in popping it open like you were going to insert a disc), remove battery cover, then remove bottom casing. You should see a ribbon cable that runs from the top casing connected to the circuit board via a special 'connector'. Remove the screws securing the top casing, and flip it over so you can see the inside of the MD, while keeping the ribbon cable attached. The ribbon cable is anchored to the board via a flat 'connector'. The 'connector' is a two piece construct; you can release the cable by pulling softly on the two sides of the connector segment facing the ribbon. Do not, do not tug on the ribbon cable itself. If you find the ribbon difficult to detach, it means you havn't released the connector yet. Don't go any further if you can't pass this step, undo everything and take it to the sony dealer. Sony's portable MD recorder designs are relatively universal. You should be able to identify the optical lens head, attached to the motors and the axle that allows it to track the disc. This (to the best of my knowledge) is similar to a cd player optical head, so no surprises. The optical head is on the 'bottom' of the unit, and stays horizontal even when you open the case for inserting discs. You should also notice the magnetic write head, attached to a metal arm that is fixed to the 'top' of the interior chasis, which can move up and down to accomodate insertion of discs. Take care in not touching the metal arm or the magnetic write head. 4b. Test Reattach the battery clip, and insert the gumstick battery. Close battery cover to secure battery. Your view of your opened MD should be birds-eye, with the chasis popped up as if accepting a disc. Insert a disc with content in it. Preferably a full disc. Make sure it is write protected. Instead of pushing down on the left chasis arm to 'load the disc', you can detach the left chasis arm (by pulling it gently to the left farther), and let the chasis , along with the disc, drop into the loaded position. Get something to keep the right chasis arm down (as it activates a switch that tells the unit the cover is closed, allowing you to turn it on). You should be able to turn on and play the disc using the controls on the top casing, while being able to see the disc spin and the magnetic head track across the disc surface. Pay attention to how high it floats above the disc (vertical distance) Stop the player, and remove whatever you used to close the right chasis arm switch (let the arm lift up). The unit should turn off by now as it thinks you opened the case to pop a disc out. The disc itself won't pop out as you've released the left chasis arm that helps lift the disc out. You must lift the chasis yourself and remove the disc. Replace with an empty or expendable disc, and once again load it (using steps above). Try to record to the disc (you don't need any input), while paying close attention to the magnetic write head. Make detailed observations regarding the vertical distance of the head relative to the disc. You will need to refer to it further on. It is closer to the disc surface when you are recording than when you are in playback. Eject the disc once again, and remove the battery, detaching the ribbon cable from the top casing, put the top casing somewhere safe. 5. Identifying the source of the problem: At this point the problem should be apparent. There is a ribbon cable that connects the magnetic read head, runs through the flexible metal arm, and traces a path to the circuit board on the bottom, where it is soldered at two points to the board. This cable is easily broken, and this should be your problem, if you find a broken cable. If you've got keen eyesight you should also notice that the magnetic write head has only two leads (wires)!, and also the magnetic head + arm construct is intimately connected to the optical head/block, so that the magnetic head moves in unison with the optical head. Since the magnetic head is coupled (intimately attached) with the optical head, the ribbon cable servicing the magnetic head is always under use, even when you're not recording anything (ie: during simple playback). This is the exact problem. At this point it is obvious what steps must be taken to fix the problem. Simply bypass the broken ribbon cable and you should be fine, right? 6. The broken cable: At first I tried using liquid solder (comes in a pen, you can 'draw' solder lines with it) to patch up the ribbon cable, but it doesn't work well. It seems the ribbon cable consists of a paper-like 'base' or substrate, with very thin copper wire (they're flat so i'm supposing that these wires are printed onto the substrate) deposited on top, finally covered with a protective and flexible polymer/plastic. I must admit it is an elegent design, as well as a major pain to replace. This is the toughest step; replacing the ribbon cable. You must find wiring that is very very thin, yet very flexible and pliable. Even the smallest gauge wires you can find in 'surplus' stores will not do the job. Do not use single conductor insulated wires (wires with only a single copper wire insulated with plastic), even if they are extremely thin, as they are not flexible enough to do the job (yes they may feel very flexible in your hands however). The motor mechanism that drives the motion of the optical/magnetic head (not the disc motor) is very sensitive to resistance; it is so sensitive that single conductor wires will provide enough mechanical resistance to prevent the heads from moving/tracking far at all (more on this later). I has taken me a month of trial and error before realizing the best wires for the job are the multi conductor wires within cheap headphones work best for this situation. Most cheap earphones (using the earbud types as an example) have two wires originating from the stereo plug, one wire for each ear. Cut the plug off, and split the two wires. You only need a wire length equivalent to the distance covered by the original ribbon cable, so save the rest for other odd jobs i suppose (don't forget to leave a little margin, in case). Strip the wires and you should see that each 'wire' servicing the earbuds actually consist of two very thin and fragile wires, each wrapped around a fiber core. Generally the copper wires are 'ground' and the coloured wires (red and blue) carry the signal. You can use any of them; I decided to go with the red and blue just for simplicity in wiring. Prepare the wires by applying very very little amuont of solder to one end. I suggest dipping the end in flux, then melt the solder so it flows onto the wire. Very little solder is needed. You don't want the solder to 'weight down' the magnetic head. 7. Bypassing the ribbon cable: Attaching wires to existing ribbon cable is a difficult process and can be 'hit and miss' as the printed wiring beneath the plastic sheath is rather thin. You might just burn through the ribbon too. Here's another tricky part: Make a detailed note of the vertical position the metal arm is when at rest (floating above the optical head). Chances are you will bend the arm out of the original shape when you're working with it. The arm must be at a certain position in order to be able to record. Too close to the disc and you will scratch it. Too far from the disc surface and you will lose recording ability. Carefully detach the metal arm that carries the magnetic head from the rest of the MD by removing the single screw that secures it. It will be difficult as it is also glued down. Take your time and be careful, using a fitting screwdriver (I used a flat head rather than the philips (cross) as flat heads don't strip the thread as easily - your preference) and making sure you don't strip the screw. Remember the shape of the arm! Once you've detached the arm, look at the bottom side. You will see two relatively large solder points where the magnetic write head is wired to the ribbon cable. I soldered the two headphone wires to these points (existing solder at these points should be enough to accomodate the wires). Make sure you don't create a short circuit (check for solder bridging). Secure the soldered wires by threading them though the holes of the metal arm (don't worry, the ribbon cable is useless to you now). Let the wires trail same path the ribbon cable used to take. They should be long enough to allow the read/write heads to reach the outer edge of a disc, but not too long that it gets cluttered up when the read/write heads return to the inner areas of a disc, as clutter will cause resistance and that will hamper read/write head movement. Cut any excess wire, and prepare and solder the other end to the points on the circuit board where the ribbon cable was anchored. Take note of which wire solders to which point from tracing the paths taken by each wire within the ribbon cable. (this is simple, you shouldn't mix it up at all given only two wires!) Reform the original shape of the metal arm (if you've bent it, which you should have avoided), and reattach the arm back to the MD. Make sure it is not skewed (should be perfectly in line) and tightly screwed back in as you don't want any misalignment. Check the vertical distance of the arm to make sure it is floating at the same height as it was before you detached it. This is crucial. 8. Testing: Your MD should be fixed by now, but we want to make sure. Reattach the ribbon cable of the top casing (the casing with the play/rec controls), but keep the cover loose (don't screw it in). Be careful not to break this ribbon cable (haha!) Reinsert the gumstick battery. Close battery cover to secure battery. Your view of your opened MD should be birds-eye, with the chasis popped up as if accepting a disc. Insert a disc with content in it. Preferably a full disc. Make sure it is write protected. You should be able to turn on and play the disc using the controls on the top casing, while being able to see the disc spin and the magnetic head track across the disc surface. Try playing some tracks now, especially try to play track 1 (close to inner area of disc), then jumping straight to the last song (which should be at the outer edge of the disc, assuming you didn't move any tracks). You should have no problems with the read/write heads tracking from inner to outer edge of the disc. If you do, it means your wires are causing too much resistence (which means you're using too thick wires! redo it with thinner, more flexible wires). Stop the player, and replace with an empty or expendable disc, and once again load it (using steps above). Now test by recording from mic-in. Keen observers will notice the magnetic write head arm will be lowered closer to the surface of the disc when recording. Play back to see if you've managed to record anything. If not, retrace your prior soldering and wiring steps and see if you missed any details. At this point, the most critical detail (aside from obvious wiring connectivity mistakes), is the vertical distance the magnetic head floats above the disc when recording. Make sure it lies the same vertical distance from the disc surface when recording as it did during your initial test before the bypass. Once you've managed to get it to record and playback audio from the mic-in, you've sucessfully repaired your MD! 9. Reassembling Remove the discs, and reclip the left chasis arm with the chasis. Secure the top casing first, making sure you don't crush your new wires. Remove the battery and the battery cover, so you can reattach the bottom casing. Take care when reattaching the bottom casing, as you've got to fit the hold switch on the bottom face as well as the 'open' switch (to open the shell for discs). You won't be able to fit the bottom casing snugly without being able to fit the hold and open switches as well. Reattach battery cover and put back all the screws you took out (should be 9 screws in total). Power the unit up and do one more recording test on it using mic-in, then try downloading songs through the cradle. Done! I hope this long article will help those of you out there stuck with a broken recorder. Good luck! Update: The N1 I fixed a week back lost recording ability once again after spending a long, hot day in my backpack while I was out hiking. You may run into intermittent problems when the MD has experienced a temperature change. I solved this issue by reopening the top cover and gently pushing the flexible write head arm down towads the optical head several times ("flexing" it), so it would acheive tighter floating distance to the disc when recording, and problem was solved! Note that in order to push it down, you've got to have the chasis 'lowered', so detach the left chasis arm first, or else the metal construct that holds the MD disc will prevent the write head from behing pushed down; you need to flex it so that it can almost touch the optical head. You don't need to flex too much, a slight 1/4 mm adjustment is enough. When you're done flexing, just make sure the head isn't scratching the disc by testing recording while the top cover is still removed, but with ribbon cable still attached so you can control the unit) As an aside, if you've read through the service manuals for most sony units, there's a section on temperature calibration in service mode. I believe that serves the same purpose; namely to reposition the vertical distance of the write head when temperature change affects the metal arm. Interesting stuff! Update #2: Mag. Write-head must be in contact with the disc surface. To avoid skipping issues when recording, clean both sides of the disc. You may also want to quickly wipe the bottom 'contact surface' of the mag.head as well, with a cotton tip, as I've found grime buildup there that lifted the mag.head, hence no contact. Be careful though! Update #3: Ressurecting an old post, if you have problems where the unit blanks the disc and makes it unreadable (and hence unformattable by sonicstage), there is a dirty hack to manually format the disc. Don't do this if you have no idea how to navigate service mode or understand the implications of a mis-executed hack. So far, I know it works on my N1, and has been reported to work on the N710. 1. Get into service mode: set (hold) on; hold down (vol -); >, >, <, <, >, <, >, <, (pause), (pause). 2. access [AUTOCOM 500] using (vol +), enter using (play). 3. access [510 ACCESS] using (play). 4. starting at [511 xxSCC], move to [518 xxS03] using (>). 5. change S03 to S00 using (vol +/-), so the value reads [518 xxS00]. 6. press (stop) to execute. 7. disc mechanism should be heard rattling. 8. exit service mode by removing power. voila, the corrupted disc should be blanked. info thanks to leorick original post here
    1 point
  14. The MiniDiscs I most enjoy stumbling across are the ones where I’d made an unlabelled (except for possibly noting the month/year) “mixtape” back in the day and being reminded of a point in time. It’s interesting being reminded of what I’d been listening to in, say, May 2001 or August 1998.
    1 point
  15. ANy one have any opinion what the website was doing when it was off. Some times there was what seemed like a blue set of sony menues but each option in the address bar had a very very long line of random characters that to my mind looked like some kind of malware code,. So I thought the site had been hacked
    1 point
  16. This is my first ever post on a forum, so hopefully I have done things correctly. For any members who may be interested, I have built a simple MiniDisc laser power meter which should prove cheap and reproducible. There seemed to be interest in such things before the forum's recent disappearance. I have posted full details of my prototype here.- https://billingtonrepairs.wordpress.com/projects/a-simple-diy-laser-power-meter-for-minidisc-decks/
    1 point
  17. Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip
    1 point
  18. Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.
    1 point
  19. Sorry about the long hiatus, moved locations and all. The update on the KMS-262 is that it is necessary for the combo units as it can heat the disc faster in the high speed dubbing mode. KMS-260 just for the regular decks and real-time play or record.
    1 point
  20. Lip-8 contains a very standard 14650 battery - easy to fit in the empty case - I just worked a blade around the seam, separated the case and pulled off the spot welded terminals with care (snipe nosed pliers did the trick for me). inserted new 14650 and reassembled the case around it. - Usual disclaimer about safety - Please note that I am only describing what I did, not how to do it yourself - Lithium batteries need special care.
    1 point
  21. Here's what I've found. Keep in mind that for at-home use, I listen to MD almost exclusively through an MD deck attached to an amplifier via the deck's analog outputs. Everyone means well, I know, as far as how to get the best sound out of MD, but the configuration I just described is what I have and will stay as it is for the foreseeable future. One of my two main listening systems has, for an amp, the Cambridge Audio Azur 540R V3. This is a "modern" amp (that is, it has an optical in), although a few years old. At the moment, I'm using my JB930 as MD input to the amp, via analog, but for a couple of years prior, my JB940 was the MD source. The JB940 sounded pretty much the same no matter if connected to the amp via its analog out or via its digital out. I don't know what kind of DAC the 540R amp uses, but given the general high quality of Cambridge Audio gear, I would suspect it's pretty good. Perhaps if I tried using my MXD-D400 as input to the amp, I'd notice more of a difference in sound via the D400's optical out as compared to its analog out. (The D400, like its predecessor MXD-D40, is really rather woefully deficient as a playback unit via analog out.) Should my NAD C372 amp (the amp for my other - and primary - main system) ever fail, or should I ever find myself with a surplus of funds, then I'd consider replacing it with a similar unit that does have optical in. That could give me more options for MD sourcing. Anyway, I just wanted to note that people on this board use MD in different ways and that there's no one-size-fits-all solution for improvement of MD sound. The important thing is that we all do use MD, in whatever way is available or best for each of us. BTW, shortly after my acquisition of the JB930, I also got a non-Sony deck - a Kenwood MD-2070. I found this on eBay as a never-used item. It certainly looks that way. First audio impression was that it's not up to the JB930's lofty standards, but still pretty good, especially considering that it is ATRAC 4.5. Not sure just yet how I am going to use it. Have a good day, all, and keep enjoying MD. Bruce (or Bluecrab, take your pick)
    1 point
  22. The only guy who could in theory do better than you (I mean even taking pictures of his own desks) is Pierre "100 decks" Nogez in France, who still have 80 decks in stock.
    1 point
  23. Hi Jaywars, I'm also a user of Sony Minidisc Recorders (MZ/N10 and MZ/RH1) and had the same problems as you. On internet I found the following solution: 1) Browse to the directory C:\Program files\Common files\Sony Shared\OpenMG\restorable, then you will find two files, namely icv.dat and maclist.dat; 2) Select both these files and copy them to the parent folder C:\Program files\Common files\Sony Shared\OpenMG; 3) After closing these directories etc. launch the SonicStage icon on your screen; 4) I have executed these procedure for both Windows XP (desktop computer) and Windows 7 Ultimate (notebook) and in both cases it was succesfull.
    1 point
  24. Ok, but is that link for the U.S. version?
    1 point
  25. These were improvements in ATRAC encoding. Type R was a 2 pass system that was incorporated into portables when processing power became powerful enough to do the extra processing. Type S improved the ATRAC3 performance in a similiar fashion. Both of these changes were to the encoder and required no changes to the playback processing
    1 point
  26. It is certainly NOT Sony's fault that US Best Buy stores do not stock 1GB MDs. Vendors DO NOT tell stores what to stock, the stores make those decisions.
    1 point
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