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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/29/2023 in all areas

  1. Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:
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  2. Thought I'd resurrect this thread as it is the only thing that shows up on Google for Denon Minidisc "Mech Err 1" - I have the same drive in my Denon DMD-F100. After several rebuilds I finally found the problem with mine was that the clutch gear was seized solid. Even though the limit switches on the load/eject mechanism were working fine, it seems like the player still relies on a certain amount of clutch slip at the ends of its travel. With no slip the torque from the worm gears tries to push the drive apart and jams it solid. I dismantled the clutch to free up the plates and now it is loading and ejecting perfectly.
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  3. Hi and welcome to the SI forum! The basic 'No Disc' problem may be the sensor in the MD unit that tells it when a disc has been inserted after the lid is closed. It is a small black pin on the left-hand side of the MD base when the lid is open: This pin engages with one of the holes on the underside of the minidisc itself, and the pin gets pushed down when the minidisc is inserted and the lid closed: In older machines, this pin can become less sensitive and requires to be pushed down further. The malfunction can be associated with particular discs though. Do you have another to try? Otherwise you can test by putting a piece of sellotape over the pin to stick it down, then put the minidisc in and try closing the lid. If it reads the disc then you can assume it is the hole depth not being enough. I have overcome this problem by putting a tiny piece of paper into the hole of the minidisc itself, and pressing it down hard to flatten it within the hole using a small screwdriver. The effect is to raise the base of the hole and make it push that pin down a bit further when the lid is closed. Sadly, on some units the pin gets snapped off due to rough treatment and requires replacing. BTW, the 'white gunk' you saw on the spiral is lithium grease which is supposed to be there to lubricate the worm drive mechanism. If you cleaned off the excess then that's probably fine as there should be enough remaining in the thread to work.
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  4. Hi - I have an STL file for the lever lock assembly for a 333es, and comparing the service manuals it has the same part number... so very probably the same thing. Have attached it here, and will add the link to the source page if I can find it again! <edit: source page is here on SI Forums:> Anyway, I can print a couple for you in black or transparent PETG; unfortunately don't have any white PETG filament. Where are you located geographically? For reassembly and alignment of the disc tray mechanism, I recommend watching this video on YouTube as it covers a number of problems with the 333es such as belt change, disc tray adjustment, and recording issues. Again,comparing the service manuals, the principles are probably the same for the 555es. TL;DR... at exactly the 6min timepoint, he discusses and shows the alignment of marks on the rack, gear, and slider (which is also in the 555es manual p16). Lever lock assy Sony MDS-JA333ES.stl
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  5. I thought I had recorded somewhere which belts I had replaced and when but I cannot find it now 🤦‍♂️ Probably should have used stickers on the back rather than a spreadsheet, which I now can't seem to locate.
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  6. Well, you might not consider them "pro" @Richard, but they certainly look very professional to me. And your pictorial posts are always very much appreciated.
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  7. 🤣 It's always a bit embarrassing when I see @Richard's professional shots compared to my feeble "taken on my desk with a phone in bad light" efforts.
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  8. Last time we brain sync'd on anything I ended up buying far too many MDW80Ts from Amazon Japan 😲 🤣
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  9. 🤣 I believe you, @kgallen. Honestly... I've been making a conscious effort not to look at decks on eBay recently but the BIN prices do seem to be the wrong side of £200 these days (not that I'm sort of looking either 😉). Not sure what they're actually selling for, and eBay is a tad misleading in this regard as it seems to show the original advertised price against its sold listings, rather than any lower offer the seller may have accepted. Glad to hear you've rescued another defunct 940 @M1JWR 👍 I suppose one positive of the increase in value of these decks is that people are possibly more likely to try to sell non-functioning ones, rather than just take them to the tip.
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  10. I've been wondering where I knew that guy from as he looked familiar. Was even wondering if it was someone I actually knew before I finally twigged 🤦‍♂️ One of the little pleasures the format brings 😀
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  11. Hi Folks, my first post here, to share my quantitative collection. Cheers!!
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  12. 😄 I don't mind opening MDW80Ts as I have quite a few of them, they're still readily available new (as an aside, someone over on the MiniDisc Discord server e-mailed Sony and got confirmation that they are still actually manufacturing the MDW80T, not just clearing existing stock, which I thought was great 🙂) and they're individually wrapped. I get cold sweats just thinking about breaking open a block of Biancas or some of my older discs though 🤣 Bit daft when I think about it as they're not really in that short supply. I dread to think about @Richard and all his super rare discs though. I don't think I could bring myself to unwrap any of them...
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  13. Hello! Thank you for taking the time to help me out. I got my hands on more MD's to test out on the machine and had slightly better results.Still had loading issues, but not as often. That being said I did what you suggested on cleaning the record head. I used some 99% isopropanol that I had and wiped it a few times. Since wiping it down It doesn't show the error message at all and correctly records on the disc! I have tested it dozens of times on my new MD's and I am confident it was just the record head had some debris on it obstructing the recording process. Thank you so much for you help. :)
    1 point
  14. Hi and welcome to the MD universe! Looking at your first video, I was struck by the amount of surface material present on the disc's upper surface. Normally they should be glossy and without scratches or deposited material. If there is crud stuck on there, then it could explain why the record head cannot contact the surface consistently, and stops. Do you have another, possibly cleaner disc to try? Since the machine is new to you, another possibility is that it's the record head itself which is producing deposits, so would be worth cleaning the underside of the record head with some 70% isopropanol to see if that helps. Even if it isn't the source of the deposits, it may have picked some up during the write attempts.
    1 point
  15. Good to see you're keeping these old machines working and in circulation, @M1JWR. I've been using the MDS-JE500 this week and I think it's probably just a case of the older style mechanism not being quite so slick as my MDM7 decks, all of which have had belt replacements fairly recently. One pleasant consequence of using the JE500 is that I've had to dig out some of my older MDs to listen to as most of my more recent recordings have been done in LP2. It's been nice listening to a few things, especially old "mixtapes", that I hadn't heard in a while.
    1 point
  16. I've not bought any more discs since our last little box of MDW80Ts from Amazon.jp back in February. Although I did notice they're back in stock for UK delivery again 😂 I did pick up another MZ-R909 a month or so back as the dodgy jog dial on my silver one was continuing to annoy me. So I now have three of those 🤦‍♂️ Oh, and I got an MZ-E720 back in April, which I posted a photo of somewhere. Been doing more recording/playing than eBay hunting, which is probably a good thing...
    1 point
  17. You should be fine with that. But I would question your need to transfer from cassette to md, unless like myself, you like listening to audio on md players. I would suggest checking your transferred audio levels by linking your MZRH1 to your PC and opening the files in ‘Reaper’ or its equivalent program, you will also have the benefit of editing and archiving them for use in other audio file formats and for different players. I also have a couple of MZRH1s with failed OLED screens; but keep them purely for ease of file transfer between minidiscs and PC using SonicStage for ATRAC file use or PCM WAVE for archival use.
    1 point
  18. Not sure if I can aswer your question but I sympathise. I have two MZ-RH1 machines and one has lost its OLEDS - such a shame. I find using a sidecar helps for seeing what's going on for Playback, but recording and editing is pure guesswork - so I don't bother and use other machines to record on. I'd think that if you haven't changed any settings and Sonicstage is confirming PCM, you're probably OK. Somewhere onlineis at least one video showing how to replace the OLEDs in the MZ-RH1 (if you can find replacements). It looks fiendishly difficult and fiddly and way beyond my capabilities or level of patience.
    1 point
  19. Mate, seriously i'm having more fun with my JB-930 than i've ever had with any other format, these things are so bloody awesome.
    1 point
  20. That's remarkably cheap. Any idea if it ignores/strips SCMS? I'm guessing it more than likely does?
    1 point
  21. Ah, fair enough. Just saw the output on the back and thought it might be worth checking.
    1 point
  22. I was the opposite. All my titling back in the day was done using the remote that came with my MDS-JE500. I only discovered the joys of PS2 keyboards and computer based titling in the last few years. I don't remember using the remote being that much of a chore at the time but the later developments certainly made things much easier. I've also now got what I suppose is the deck equivalent of this: Control A1II between my CDP-XB740 and MDS-JB940.
    1 point
  23. Love his comments from c. 15.00 onwards. 😆
    1 point
  24. I wasn’t that far off then 🤣
    1 point
  25. Thanks! I'll investigate the wiki missing instructions for the RH1, but once you connect it to the app and start selecting tracks, you have a 'Download' button instead of the normal 'Record' one (so it looks as-if it had exploits enabled out of the box). The progress dialog box that comes up is also different to the exploit one.
    1 point
  26. The current version of Web Minidisc supports downloading tracks off of the MZ-RH1. That functionality has been added even before the exploits were a thing.
    1 point
  27. Not sure if you need MDLP or not but, if you do, then there's only one ES deck that's compatible: MDS-JA333ES.
    1 point
  28. Hi, in memoriam No Adjust! - In this case, it means the contents of the EEPROM is damaged. Before the error "no adjust" occurs, You can copy the contents of EEPROM. When an error occurs, you can upload the memory dump to the chip. EEPROM: IC302 Seiko Instruments S-93C46AMFN Buffer content from address: 00000000h, to address: 0000003Fh memory for user settings and adjust settings Programmer: Elnec BeeProg+ BAT300, battery backup (3V ML614 rechargeable lithium battery) is only for Real Time Clock cross-reference: Panasonic EECEN0F204RK http://www.tme.eu/en/details/eec-en0f204rk/supercapacitors/panasonic/eecen0f204rk/ Caution: Connect an AC adapter after replacing battery, and leave the unit for more than 8 hours. Dump from AM-F72 (No Adjust!) 0000000000 8212 B2B4 8C04 A20A 04A2 CA2C 0050 D8C0 0000000008 ACA8 116C 601E E0DF 3800 E020 797E 0000 0000000010 0B0A 00F0 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000018 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000020 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000028 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000030 2AD0 E8F0 E0B0 E0B0 E0F0 0C0C 0C0C 0000 0000000038 0000 0080 0010 D002 0000 0000 0000 0008 Dump from AM-F75 (working) 0000000000 8212 B2B4 8C04 A20A 04A2 CA2C 0050 D8C0 0000000008 ACA8 116C 601E E0DF 3800 E020 797E 0000 0000000010 0B0A 00F0 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000018 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000020 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000028 FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF 0000000030 2AD0 E808 E088 9088 D888 74B8 24D8 0000 0000000038 7F00 8080 0010 7303 0000 0000 0000 0004 dump EEPROM from working AM-F75 (binary format): dump_AMF75.zip 30h - laser power correction temperature correction, FBIAS, RLCD: 37h - ? 38h - ? 3Dh - ? Regards, Maciek EDIT: cross-reference for IC302: 93LC46B-I/ST 2.5÷5.5V (TSSOP8) Microchip Technology http://www.tme.eu/en/details/93lc46b-i_st/serial-eeprom-memories-integ-circ/microchip-technology/ or 93AA46B-I/ST 1.8÷5.5V (TSSOP8) Microchip Technology 93AA46B-I/MS 1.8÷5.5V (MSOP) Microchip Technology 93LC46B-I/MS 2.5÷5.5V (MSOP) Microchip Technology after programming the chip (if cross-reference) must be flipped: ps. sorry for my english
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