MDX-400

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About MDX-400

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    Connoisseur

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    Toronto, Canada

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  • PlayStation Network ID
    BlueRevenge
  • Sony Products I Own
    Quite a few!
  1. Seller of the JA3ES has terrible feedback though. Also JA3ES was the least "ES" of all the ES MD decks. I like to think of it as ES-lite, lol.
  2. Interesting that some Hi-MD units charge from USB. I only have a DH10P (my only Hi-MD unit) which is 2nd gen, and it certainly doesn't charge over USB!
  3. The encryption keys only have to do with playback and not with actually reading the disc. If the encryption keys are not up to date the player will read the disc fine and attempt to play it but upon playback it will tell you the disc cannot be played until the player is updated. If the player won't read the disc at all, that's a pickup or spindle or other mechanical problem with the player.
  4. Wow, well that should end cheap with that feedback score--bit of a risk there. PayPal may protect but big pain there and still may end up losing the money in some cases. Now that it's posted here, it'll probably drive the price up too lol. Also shipping for American buyers is pretty steep...
  5. All Hi-MD that can record or "download", can be powered for playback/record/download from USB IIRC. However they cannot charge a battery via USB. Since the NH600D also has no DC-in jack it cannot charge a battery at all. The NH600 (no D) does have DC-in but it never came with a rechargeable AA I don't think. So I'm not sure if it has the charge circuit or not given I've never used one--someone with one would have to verify. Though it should be the "cheapest Hi-MD", I agree with the sentiments above that people ask way too much for them on eBay. NH600Ds are typically listed at $150+ which ridiculous. 600Ds were sold at retail for about $100 at the end of the MD era, selling a used one now for more money, is jokes. You could easily just bid on/buy a second-gen Hi-MD unit instead, for similar money...or less!
  6. ^There are rechargeable AAs you know, lol. Meaning AAs can actually be more ecologically correct given a cylindrical cell has more capacity (within the same chemistry) and longer lifespan compared to a prismatic (rectangular) rechargeable. Also rechargeable NiMH AAs are much better for modern devices* than throw-away batteries as they hold up against higher drains, whereas alkaline and other throw-away AAs suck at this**. This is not significant for MD after the Rx00 generation since they were not really high drain a devices except when recording, but NiMH AA is better overall in any MD unit using AA, IMO. As for holding a charge, Eneloops (and similar) have been doing this reasonably fine for many years now so it's not really an issue. These type of NiMH batteries will hold charge for a year or more and still be at 85%+ capacity. *Of course most modern devices have long abandoned AAs anyway, in favour of internal Li-Ion/Li-Ion-Poly cells and USB recharging. **The only exception to throw-away AAs and high drain are Energizer 1.5V Lithium AAs which have a discharge curve similar to a rechargeable when loaded up, but they are one-use/discardable. As for what I think personally? I still kinda like the units that use gumsticks better. Perhaps because there was no battery bulge, perhaps because they were typically the high-end units. Perhaps a bit of both. Also, I didn't realise this was a zombie thread, LOL. 2007!
  7. Any 5-6V regulated supply or switching adapter capable of 500mA or more and have an appropriate plug, should work; a transformer adapter (the old "brick" ones) with the same rating as well but will probably float 8-9V unloaded so if using a transformer adapter you could probably use a "4.5V" adapter fine as well. If you give it too much voltage (within reason) the unit will flash "Hi DC In" and refuse to work, so it's not a huge deal if you overvolt it a little--it has built in protection to some degree. USB has okay voltage however it is current limited. The theoretical limit (before you trip protection or blow a fuse on the mobo) is 500mA on most USB ports. Therefore USB-charging devices typically do not draw more than ~384mA from a standard USB port (they only try to draw more when connected to USB-AC adapters). Since the NH1 (and all MD units for that matter) was before USB charging was common, you'd be charging with the unit just thinking it's connected to an appropriate AC adapter which may overload the port (the unit will just try to draw whatever current it needs at 5V). So, it may not charge correctly on a USB port given the lower voltage and current limit (which may damage your mobo if exceeded). Personally I would play it safe and just find a genuine 6V Sony switching adapter on eBay or something--I'm sure they can't cost more than $15.
  8. The RH10 is not the same as an M200, it's the same as an M100. I'm pretty sure PCM transfers work on any HiMD unit though no? The only thing that makes the RH1 special (in this regard) is that it can upload "classic" (MD-SP) recordings to the computer.
  9. There's also another guy (in Germany I think it was?) that used a cylindrical Li-Ion cell, along with a spring (to make it longer) and cardboard (to hold it in place), as a replacement successfully. This method does not require the unit be disassembled. Since cylindrical cells have higher capacity for similar volume, the guy stated that the capacity is the same. However I don't really trust the Chinese capacity ratings he's probably going by; I'd have to know what the standard capacity is for that particular size but I never looked into it. Nonetheless I think he reported similar run times. I also found a listing for a BK062265 Li-Ion prismatic cell on eBay (which can also be found on google). "BK062265" refers to a generic part code used for nearly all Li-Ion/Li-Ion-Poly cells in which the numbers merely describe the dimensions. Therefore 062265 refers to 65 x 22 x 6 mm. Unfortunately when I measured the LIB-902 it comes out to 67 x 18-19* x 5 mm, so I'm not sure if it would work. *LIB-902 is "keyed" so that part of it is slightly taller than the rest of the battery. **Edit, scratch what I said before, the key actually does prevent it from being inserted the wrong way, not sure why I didn't get that before; it doesn't prevent it from being inserted upside down, however. So the one I found is about 2mm too short meaning the use of a spring may still be required or perhaps just using some tin foil. I'm not sure if the entire ends of the "BK062265" are entirely contacts or if it's just a small portion (can't find pics of the ends), so foil may actually be a good idea. Now the width of the battery is 1mm too large but if one broke off the latch at the end of the unit (where the battery door clips in) it should fit as within the unit there is enough space otherwise. Now this may sound like a bad idea but the truth is on the F70 that latch doesn't do that much for the battery door because it is also held in by the base of the latch (when you press it in) and, perhaps more importantly, the lid of the entire unit holds the door in place when both are closed. In fact the lid can't be closed until the battery door is closed. Also since the length of the replacement is 2mm shorter, this may not even be required as it my just "snug in" before the portion of plastic that forms that latch bit. (You have to have one in your hands to get what I'm talking about here.) The only thing I can think would prevent such a cell from fitting is the height. **Edit: Because the key prevents it from being inserted wrong, one would have to remove or cut the part at the end of the battery housing in order to fit a higher battery. It's too hard to tell whether 3mm would prevent the door from closing, but I think it might close being a tight fit. Would have to spend about $10 on the battery to try, but it's probably worth a shot. Since I have a working LIB-902 (*knock on wood*) I'm not in a real rush, but someone desparate for a battery may want to try. Okay 2nd edit: I tried putting a toothpick (which is about 2mm) over top the LIB-902 and closing the door--no dice. So a 062265 will NOT fit However I'm thinking there has to be some generic Li-Ion prismatic size that should. Might take a little searching...
  10. I think that the deduction Sony has parts and refurb RH1 units stocked is about right. Even if you look up some of the parts, you can see "part requested"/"part supplied" listings that show things like "internal only" when decoded. I'm guessing they have few parts though, so they don't sell them to the public and only use them for warranty and pay-for repairs in their factory service centres. That said OP probably doesn't even need parts just a new calibration done if the service menu values were erased. I do find it hard to believe someone would get into that mode and erase data by accident though. LOL @ the table thing though I'm guessing OP's first language is not English.
  11. Ah I see, so thanks to jonathanpotato for the spreadsheet then! What I'd love to find is some cheap LCX-4Es because I have two E900s and one E700 with failing pickups (all were bought that way on the cheap back in the day). Also I had another E700 that was fully working that eventually totally failed (don't have that one anymore though). LCX-4E pickup is a piece of crap, let me tell you, LOL. But it'd be nice to get my hands on a few working ones to fix these units--esp. my blue E900.
  12. Very cool. Now the question is...how/where can we get some of these?
  13. Ehh like "Another MD Fanatic" above said, it's almost certainly not worth it to repair. The MS701/MS702 always had this problem--if you can find all the old stuff on the intarwebs about "Sharp UTOC error" you'll see what I mean. Allegedly the later units with the "MK" suffix on the box/model label were improved but who knows by how much. I'm pretty sure any MS701/702 will fail eventually in the same fashion. Might as well just buy another MD unit off eBay, etc. and hopefully not a Sharp from this generation! Then you can relegate the Sharp to playback only duty though you might want to look into permanently disconnecting the OWH because I'm pretty sure those units were also known to randomly erase discs, but I can't rememeber now.
  14. Only thing I can offer here is that the Li-Ion batteries of "yesterday" were built a little more stringently, to higher quality standards, and used high quality materials and manufacturing. You have to remember that this was back when most portable MD recorders were still running off 3.6V drive (Li-Ion voltage) and NiMH units were not yet commonplace. In fact the MZ-R55 which would come out that same year was the first one to use NiMH gumstick IIRC. But it had horrible battery life as I doubt it was engineered as a 1.2/1.5V drive unit but instead was adapted from a 3.6V design. Battery life on the R55 was essentially cut in half from the R50 and it wouldn't be until the next generation (the R90/91) where battery life became good. (This was also the start of the power cycling instead of keeping the disc spinning indefinitely, IIRC.) Prismatics (gumsticks, rectangular batteries) have never been a match for their cylindrical counterparts either. Not in capacity and not in longevity (cycle life) and durability (environmental/physical). However they met the size criteria cylindrical cells could not. The unfortunate part about NiMH prismatics is they were even poorer than LiIon prismatics. Even the well manufactured ones weren't anything spectacular and the many poorly made ones (China-made, knock offs, counterfeits) made the situation even worse. However at least they are still made and available, albeit from 3rd party (and mainly China made) companies. It's a good thing the LIB-902s have good life though, because it's impossible to find those anymore as they simply aren't made. Unlike cylindrical Li-Ion batts they aren't universal or standardised either so there's no real way to replace it at all! I actually have one sitting in front of me right now. I think when I stored it, it could do at most about 70% it's original rated capacity, which it probably still has since it was stored at low temp. Still, if used again, this battery will probably eventually die and then what? Well it's pretty tough finding Li-Ion prismatics. You're definitely never finding this exact battery again though there are similar cells made. Can't paste links to this forum for some reason but if you search google for "BK062265 Li Ion" you'll find something like that might work as a replacement for the LIB-902.
  15. Strangely I can't do anything when making posts. Like can't use Quote/Multiquote, nor can I even cut/paste into a post text window (like the one I'm typing in now). Can't paste links or anything else for that matter. CTRL+V does nothing, and the little paste buttons in the editor don't work either. I can't even use the image button to insert an image as the dialog pops up but when I paste in the link the OK button is still greyed out...and so is the cancel button! I can hit the "X" in the corner to close the dialog and then it asks me if I'm sure and I say yes, but the dialog remains open! LOL, wtf? I'm using IE 11, even tried compatibility mode but it stays the same. Tried the quick message post thing as well as going to the advanced/full page editor to no avail. What gives? Do these 'features work' for everyone else? I've yet to try another PC (I have lots so I guess I will try that next).